- Time of past OR future Camino
- CF 2015, CPo 2016, VDLP[Sev-Các] 2017, VDLP[Các-Sal] 2018
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I disagree about needing to be in a tour group.I agree with biarritizdon re San Juan de Pena
I don't understand why they do that. It's not a particularly arduous day, a little under 30km from Jaca to Santa Cilia vía San Juan de la Peña. Some quite steep rises and descents but, if you've just crossed the Pyrenees, nothing extraordinary.. On Gronze for example they advise against walking the variant from Jaca to San Juan de Peña solo. I
Why wouldn't she be able to see the train station and the albergue if she starts in Somport?I took a train from Pau and started in Oloron-Ste Marie, that walk is very lonely, it was just me and my thoughts about tumbling off the path into the raging river way below or meeting up with a bear. You should consider starting in Canfranc Estacion instead of Somport so you can see the train station and new albergue. Frankly, I would have preferred to start in Barcelona and walk to Jaca via Zaragosa. I think the advice about walking to San Juan de Pena is more logistical than for safety reasons, it is a long walk up hill and many, many kms from Jaca or Santa Cilia. There are taxi services that can take you there and back from either place and the way they control entry to the cliffside chapel is by "tour" bus from the hotel on top of the hill. I have never seen anyone with a backpack there, so I'm not sure they allow public access other than people on the buses but it is definitely worth the time to visit there.
San Juan de la Peña: When I hiked the Aragones in 2016, I took the 9:30 morning bus to the monastery. It was 14 euros, including entrance fee. Recommend HIGHLY that you not walk up to the monastery. Take the bus, visit the new and old monasteries, hike down the hill to Santa Cruz de los Seros, visit the Convento de Santa Maria, then continue to Santa Cilia de Jaca, and stay at the albergue there.If you have walked this route i would really appreciate any advice in this regard. On Gronze for example they advise against walking the variant from Jaca to San Juan de Peña solo. If this variant is not taken, I'm guessing it must be possible to take a break day and visit the monastery from Santa Cilia?
My other question is has anyone accessed this route from Lourdes? I can fly to Lourdes and it looks like I can get a train to Bedous and then a bus - if anyone has done this journey I would really appreciate any info or feedback.
(I know from other threads that it is possible to take a train from Zaragoza which i would love to visit but in practice means 2 days of travelling before starting to walk).
If you are happy walking solo and want to be cautious then I would suggest hiring a personal locator beacon. This is carried on you, is small and light weight. It is easy to set off if you become injured or lost. Of course, if your injury causes you to lose consciousness then it won't help but for almost any other emergency situation they are a very valuable safety aid and here in Aotearoa New Zealand are recommended for wilderness hiking and similar pursuits in the backcountry.Hi all past pilgrims of the Aragonese route
I have the opportunity to take a few weeks off to walk probably starting around 17th Sept. I would really love to walk the aragonese route starting from Somport.
I have a couple of Qs but first some context ....
I have walked a few caminos and often have walked solo (or at least started that way) - specifically the frances and the VDLP from Salamanca. So while I am always a bit nervous in the planning stage, I am quite happy walking alone - plus its nice but not essential to have evening company too.
Having said that I am a bit concerned re walking this route on my own in terms of the route being mountainous and quiet - e.g. risk of injury, risk of getting lost etc
If you have walked this route i would really appreciate any advice in this regard. On Gronze for example they advise against walking the variant from Jaca to San Juan de Peña solo. If this variant is not taken, I'm guessing it must be possible to take a break day and visit the monastery from Santa Cilia?
My other question is has anyone accessed this route from Lourdes? I can fly to Lourdes and it looks like I can get a train to Bedous and then a bus - if anyone has done this journey I would really appreciate any info or feedback.
(I know from other threads that it is possible to take a train from Zaragoza which i would love to visit but in practice means 2 days of travelling before starting to walk).
Many thanks in advance
Siobhán
P.s. apologies in advance for misspellings my laptop autocorrects in strange ways!
@Vacajoe, do you mean to take the road up to Atarés and then walk on the path from there, or are you referring to the road that goes through Santa Cruz de Serós? I’m asking because on these wikiloc tracks, the author recommends:See SJdlP, but don’t take the old path through Atares - it is unmanaged, rough, and awful if it’s been raining. Instead, follow the road - it’s not heavily traveled and doable in all types of weather (we had snow in early May!!!!)
@Vacajoe, do you mean to take the road up to Atarés and then walk on the path from there, or are you referring to the road that goes through Santa Cruz de Serós? I’m asking because on these wikiloc tracks, the author recommends:
1. Jaca to turn-off to Atarés on the N-240
2. Road from the turnoff to Atarés
3. GR path marked from Atarés to San Juan de la Peña
I have read a lot of posts about people who say the path through Atarés is awful, but I wonder if they are talking about the part before Atarés, in which case this idea of walking on the road to Atarés would be a good solution.
Jenny@zen,Hi Sia
Another endorsement for the beautiful Aragones Way. I walked for the second time in September 2019. Loved it as much as the first time. The first time we arrived walking from France as we’d been on the Arles Way. The second time we arrived by train from Zaragoza to Canfranc.
You already have lots of great information in the posts above. Just a few other things -
1. The Aragones joins the Frances in Obanos (a kilometre or two before Puenta La Reina) so if you’re concerned about accommodation at that time on the Frances which will no doubt be busy, you could also look in Obanos
2. On our first time on the Aragones at the end of the Arles Way, we stayed in Obanos and the next day we walked as ‘reverse’ pilgrims back to Pamplona, which was fun, as we were taking a bus from there. It’s a lovely section of The Way no matter which direction you walk it in
Buen Camino. View attachment 108575
Love that placeJenny@zen,
What a happy picture this of you, Canfranc station and the mountains! Thanks for sharing your memento of easier times.
Hi there, @SioCamino... On Gronze for example they advise against walking the variant from Jaca to San Juan de Peña solo. If this variant is not taken, I'm guessing it must be possible to take a break day and visit the monastery from Santa Cilia? ...
Oh let me make it clear that while you CAN walk the “original” path enough Atares, I wouldn’t recommend it!!! When I said follow the road, I meant the A-1603 from the N-240 to Santa Cruz and then up to SJdlP. All the footpaths up to the monastery are poorly maintained and hazardous when raining or snowing.
You can visit Juan de la Peña from Jaca. Ask at the tourist office there and they will tell you how to get the shuttle bus from the bus station. It is used mainly by local people who work there, and does the return journey in the afternoon. Accommodation around the monastery is expensive. The Aragonés is a beautiful camino, and I wouldn't describe it as mountainous - it is no more rugged than parts of the VdlP, some of it is flat meseta. Pre-Covid it had good infrastructure and although it was not crowded, there were always other pilgrims to walk with if you wanted company. From Lourdes, you can walk to Ste Marie d'Oloron, then pick up the Chemin d'Arles. Most people do it the other way having followed the Chemin d'Arles from Toulouse. If it is a GR route (I think it is), waymarks won't be any problem. If you don't want to walk, France has a pretty good system of inter-city buses. You could even walk from Bedous over the Col de Somport. Buen Camino.Hi all past pilgrims of the Aragonese route
I have the opportunity to take a few weeks off to walk probably starting around 17th Sept. I would really love to walk the aragonese route starting from Somport.
I have a couple of Qs but first some context ....
I have walked a few caminos and often have walked solo (or at least started that way) - specifically the frances and the VDLP from Salamanca. So while I am always a bit nervous in the planning stage, I am quite happy walking alone - plus its nice but not essential to have evening company too.
Having said that I am a bit concerned re walking this route on my own in terms of the route being mountainous and quiet - e.g. risk of injury, risk of getting lost etc
If you have walked this route i would really appreciate any advice in this regard. On Gronze for example they advise against walking the variant from Jaca to San Juan de Peña solo. If this variant is not taken, I'm guessing it must be possible to take a break day and visit the monastery from Santa Cilia?
My other question is has anyone accessed this route from Lourdes? I can fly to Lourdes and it looks like I can get a train to Bedous and then a bus - if anyone has done this journey I would really appreciate any info or feedback.
(I know from other threads that it is possible to take a train from Zaragoza which i would love to visit but in practice means 2 days of travelling before starting to walk).
Many thanks in advance
Siobhán
P.s. apologies in advance for misspellings my laptop autocorrects in strange ways!
The variant route through the Lumbier Gorge is about 7.5 km longer than the main route (and the main route is 27 km from Sangüesa to Monreal). When checking in at the albergue in Sangüesa the hospitalera told us pilgrims about an early morning bus that left nearby that could be taken to shorten the Lumbier walk. I didn't walk the Lumbier variant and so I have forgotten the details but be sure to ask about the bus if it isn't mentioned at your checkin.One more thing, from Sangüesa, you can take a variant through the Lumbier Gorge.
The variant route through the Lumbier Gorge is about 7.5 km longer than the main route (and the main route is 27 km from Sangüesa to Monreal).
I second that. We discovered home-made vermouth there too, or rather it discovered us. Nice little town and a good feeling of ordinary Spanish life off the camino.We did Sanguesa to Lumbier and then Lumbier to Monreal. No albergue in Lumbier, but there’s a great hotel that offers a small pilgrim discount. It has fabulous food and is pretty much the only place in town.
I took the train to/from Lourdes/Bedous and the bus from Bedous to Somport in October 2019. They were very convenient. If the schedule dictates an overnight in Bedous I highly recommend Maison Luard run by Jane and Eric. Opt for the evening meal and you won’t be disappointed. I can’t recommend them highly enough.Hi all past pilgrims of the Aragonese route
I have the opportunity to take a few weeks off to walk probably starting around 17th Sept. I would really love to walk the aragonese route starting from Somport.
I have a couple of Qs but first some context ....
I have walked a few caminos and often have walked solo (or at least started that way) - specifically the frances and the VDLP from Salamanca. So while I am always a bit nervous in the planning stage, I am quite happy walking alone - plus its nice but not essential to have evening company too.
Having said that I am a bit concerned re walking this route on my own in terms of the route being mountainous and quiet - e.g. risk of injury, risk of getting lost etc
If you have walked this route i would really appreciate any advice in this regard. On Gronze for example they advise against walking the variant from Jaca to San Juan de Peña solo. If this variant is not taken, I'm guessing it must be possible to take a break day and visit the monastery from Santa Cilia?
My other question is has anyone accessed this route from Lourdes? I can fly to Lourdes and it looks like I can get a train to Bedous and then a bus - if anyone has done this journey I would really appreciate any info or feedback.
(I know from other threads that it is possible to take a train from Zaragoza which i would love to visit but in practice means 2 days of travelling before starting to walk).
Many thanks in advance
Siobhán
P.s. apologies in advance for misspellings my laptop autocorrects in strange ways!
Great adviceThe Aragones is a nice route. You'll most certainly enjoy it if you're fine walking on your own most of the time.
There's not much choice in regard to accomodation, so you probably should check what's open, especially now during Covid times. Some very nice albergues on this path, small and friendly, with a good pilgrim spirit. You'll most likely meet the same few pilgrims each night since there's not much choice where to stay.
I walked it 2018 from Canfranc, late october. First it was warm and sunny, then changed to freezing cold with snowy rain and strong wind quickly. Somport is higher up than the Napoleon route, so be prepared for mountain weather, especially in the beginning!
Apart from that, I don't remember the path from Canfranc to be very demanding or dangerous. But some longer distances without albergues, cafés or bars in between towns. I think on our last day to puente la Reina, we had horizontally pouring cold rain with strong wind all day, and there was nothing open for about 30 or 35km. Only a vending machine in a small shelter, and that was broken. So, be prepared to carry your own snacks and drinks.
I went there via Toulouse and Oloron, by bus, which was easy. Didn't go to San Juan de la Pena, so can't say anything about that.
There's an alternative path at some point going through a canyon (foz de lumbier, I think) that I wanted to take (saw some beautiful photos) but sadly the weather was so bad that some locals advised not to go that way that day. Maybe you'll have more luck.
Since you say you've walked several Caminos before, I'm pretty sure you'll be fine on the Aragones as long as you follow the usual rules for mountain walking and your common sense.
Happy planning and buen Camino!
That’s for sure. We had a great tapas lunch there and a swing in the hammock and a lovely chat with Diego. Was hard to leave after a 90 minute lunch break - but Ruesca a fine stop too.We stayed in Artiedes in 2019 during our second walk: adequate rooms at the albergue but PHENOMENAL food!!! Gourmet non-Spanish dinner by the professionally-trained hosts. Not sure if they are still around post-COVID, but a fine place to stop.
HI!Thanks again to everyone who replied with so much useful information, I really appreciate it. I'm booked to fly to Lourdes next week, plan to overnight in Pau and then get the train/bus to Somport the next day and start walking from there, stopping in the albergue in Canfranc pueblo. As it turns out, my brother is joining me for a week of walking, he is hoping to get as far as Sanguesa before he has to head home. I am planning to continue onto the francés route for further couple of weeks. So it will be lovely to have the mix of company. Can't wait to get back to Spain & the Camino, it feels like a very long 2 years since my last camino trip.
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