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April vs May on the Camino Frances

barbfox5759

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
June 2013
Hi Everyone,
The last time I was on the Camino Frances was 10 years ago and was there June and July. I started in St Jean and finished in Santiago and on to Muxia and Finisterre. I am planning on returning this coming spring and I am trying to decided between starting in very late March until the first week in May. Otherwise, it will be the 3rd week in May through June, due to a prior commitment. I am planning a little extra time, so that I am able to spend some extra time in some cities.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

By the way, my name is Barb and I will be celebrating my 65th on the Camino, or close to it.

Thanks and Buen Camino
 
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I started from SJPP on March 30, 2021. I also started in May, 2013. Between the two, I would pick the earlier - April on the Frances is wonderful for many reasons. The weather, although cold and snowy in 2021, was fabulous. You certainly can not go wrong with either choice but my vote is April!
 
The Napoleon route from SJPdP is closed until April 1st (and sometimes later depending on weather), so if you start before that you will have to take the Valcarlos route.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Semana Santa is March 24-31, 2024. That is quite early in the year but still, Holy Week has been known to have an effect on numbers on the route.

Also some albergues may not open until as late as April 15. Check the Gronze website for opening dates.
 
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I started from SJPP on March 30, 2021. I also started in May, 2013. Between the two, I would pick the earlier - April on the Frances is wonderful for many reasons. The weather, although cold and snowy in 2021, was fabulous. You certainly can not go wrong with either choice but my vote is April!
Thanks for the reply. How cold and snowy was the route in 2021? Were you able to start in SJPP in March and cross the Pyrenees this time of year? Thanks again for your thoughts on the different times of the year.
 
The Napoleon route from SJPdP is closed until April 1st (and sometimes later depending on weather), so if you start before that you will have to take the Valcarlos route.
Thanks, what great information. I was not aware that that route was closed until that time of year. That might be a big factor, since last time I was there, the fog and rain were so bad, I was not able to see a thing from the top.
 
Well, while asleep in Zubiri, the snow fell so starting the trek was a bit hilarious as I am an early riser. So, few if any footsteps to follow. But it was absolutely beautiful and I hope that one day soon, I'll have the opportunity to repeat the joyous activity. The following day departing Pamplona was the same. It snowed overnight and departing the city was a challenge. But once I got to Alto de Perdon, the snow was close to knee deep. That was a bit scarry and atop of Alto, 3 Italian brothers gathered. One of them was blown about 10 yards with the wind - away from the cliff's edge however. All was good however and once again, I would repeat the experience in a heartbeat. A couple of tricky spots including the decent from Alto which has loose rocks. When covered in snow, it proved a bit edgy. I really love the April weather in this section for sure.
Back to your original question, I walked the Valcarlos route out of SJPP due to the date as someone has previously reported.
 
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If it has to be at that time of year, I’d go May through June when it’s less crowded.
Wow, so you think it would be less crowded May through June? That is now what I was expecting to hear, but good to know. Thanks for the thoughts.
 
Semana Santa is March 24-31, 2024. That is quite early in the year but still, Holy Week has been known to have an effect on numbers on the route.

Also some albergues may not open until as late as April 15. Check the Gronze website for opening dates.
Thanks, I am thinking it might just be a bit to early, for reasons that you mentioned. Thanks for your reply.
 
Well, while asleep in Zubiri, the snow fell so starting the trek was a bit hilarious as I am an early riser. So, few if any footsteps to follow. But it was absolutely beautiful and I hope that one day soon, I'll have the opportunity to repeat the joyous activity. The following day departing Pamplona was the same. It snowed overnight and departing the city was a challenge. But once I got to Alto de Perdon, the snow was close to knee deep. That was a bit scarry and atop of Alto, 3 Italian brothers gathered. One of them was blown about 10 yards with the wind - away from the cliff's edge however. All was good however and once again, I would repeat the experience in a heartbeat. A couple of tricky spots including the decent from Alto which has loose rocks. When covered in snow, it proved a bit edgy. I really love the April weather in this section for sure.
Back to your original question, I walked the Valcarlos route out of SJPP due to the date as someone has previously reported.
Thanks for all of that information. I live at an elevation of 9.000 feet in Colorado and have snow until May and June. Based on some of this, I may choose to do the later dates because I am usually ready to be done with the snow and I can imagine some of those areas being a bit tricky with the snow covering. I am also a very early riser and last time was always the first one out, many times, still in the dark. I can see the snow making it a bit more difficult, but I have no doubt that it was incredibly beautiful. I think the airfare will be a bit more expensive with May and June, but that is the way it goes. Thanks so much for sharing your incredible experience.
 
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Check when Easter is an avoid that time if possible.
 
Remember that crowding on the Camino, particularly near major starting points, is as related to the day of the week as it is to the month of the year.

Aim for a midweek start and you’ll find fewer pilgrims than you would a few days earlier/later regardless of the month.

It is self defeating advice but for now at least it still holds up.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
I started in late march and finished early may in 2015.

Had no snow except some patches of old snow in the pyrenees. I walked via Valcarlos, stayed in the albergue there and liked it a lot. It's a nice alternative route. Later, on some days it got quote warm. Easter celebrations in Spain are lovely, so I don't see why one should avoid that. I stayed in smaller villages during the easter days and had no problem with crowds or accommodation. Maybe that is different in the cities.

What is beautiful about walking in early spring are the flowers, the first fresh green, and the birds. It feels good to see everything come alive again after winter.

May is a nice time to walk also I'm sure. The last years, the numbers of pilgrims starting from St. Jean in may were very high though, and many of the "the Francés is overcrowded and there are not enough beds" panic-posts are written in (early) may. So at least until Pamplona it can be a bit crowded during that time. Later during the month that might be very different, though.

This is just one single personal experience of course.

Spring weather and crowds are very difficult to predict.

I wish you a buen Camino, whatever time of year you'll be walking in the end!
 
Last edited:
What was a very pleasant surprise to me when I walked the CF last May was the incredible smells from the flowers. Honeysuckle and bushes with fantastic smelling yellow flowers lining the path. If you love the smell of flowers then May is a great month to walk.
 
It started mid may twice now and loved it. Second time it was a bit crowded till pamplona, but i got my beds without problems. I have not walked in April, so can't compare, but i hear also lots of good things.
The problem with the crowding is, there can be lots of talk and speculation, but you will only know for certain when you're there with your feet on the ground.

Another thing that might me chose the may option is the festivities around St.Johns day on (or around?) June 24th. that can be quite the spectactle.
 
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Easter celebrations in Spain are lovely, so I don't see why one should avoid that. I stayed in smaller villages during the easter days and had no problem with crowds or accommodation. Maybe that is different in the cities.

Because Spanish people have a few days off during the Semana Santa (the Holy week) and many of them decide to walk a a part of the Camino then. Especially in the 'bottleneck' between SJPdP and Pamplona there are no beds available, so anyone who walks the Camino in that week: be sure you made your reservations!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
You don't have to start in st Jean. If you want to see the Pyrenees and have a less crowded beginning, you could also start in Somport and walk the Aragones over to the CF where it joins in Puenta la Reina.

Or start in Pamplona...The bottleneck in early Spring and in early Sept is the first few days on St Jean. Fewer places to stay those first few days so reservations are often advised.
 
If it has to be at that time of year, I’d go May through June when it’s less crowded.
I did last week of May through June in 2017 arriving at the beginning of July, and until Sarria it wasn't busy at all, poppies everywhere, cherries, some other tree with amazingly scented blossom, cuckoos, storks in their nests.
I loved it.
From Sarria onwards it was an actual Conga line (it was super hot so everyone was starting early) for the first 3 hours each day, then less people. It was very very hot (over 40C) the last few days of the walk, but I sort of acclimatised. I had never walked in temperatures that hot before ever.
Weirdly enough the first few days on the Meseta were cold.
 
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Remember that crowding on the Camino, particularly near major starting points, is as related to the day of the week as it is to the month of the year.

Aim for a midweek start and you’ll find fewer pilgrims than you would a few days earlier/later regardless of the month.

It is self defeating advice but for now at least it still holds up.
That is good advice, thanks.
 
I started in late march and finished early may in 2015.

Had no snow except some patches of old snow in the pyrenees. I walked via Valcarlos, stayed in the albergue there and liked it a lot. It's a nice alternative route. Later, on some days it got quote warm. Easter celebrations in Spain are lovely, so I don't see why one should avoid that. I stayed in smaller villages during the easter days and had no problem with crowds or accommodation. Maybe that is different in the cities.

What is beautiful about walking in early spring are the flowers, the first fresh green, and the birds. It feels good to see everything come alive again after winter.

May is a nice time to walk also I'm sure. The last years, the numbers of pilgrims starting from St. Jean in may were very high though, and many of the "the Francés is overcrowded and there are not enough beds" panic-posts are written in (early) may. So at least until Pamplona it can be a bit crowded during that time. Later during the month that might be very different, though.

This is just one single personal experience of course.

Spring weather and crowds are very difficult to predict.

I wish you a buen Camino, whatever time of year you'll be walking in the end!
Thanks so much for the thoughtful response. It is hard to predict anything, but I am really enjoying the insight everyone has from their own experience. That is what I thought, that the spring would be a beautiful time and possibly less crowded. These day, the weather seems less and less predictable and that is part of the whole experience on the Camino, isn't it. Last time, I took each day as it came, made no prior arrangements and everything worked out as it should. I need to move ahead and have faith. Thanks so much.
 
What was a very pleasant surprise to me when I walked the CF last May was the incredible smells from the flowers. Honeysuckle and bushes with fantastic smelling yellow flowers lining the path. If you love the smell of flowers then May is a great month to walk.
Thanks so much. I love the early smells of spring.
 
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Hi Everyone,
The last time I was on the Camino Frances was 10 years ago and was there June and July. I started in St Jean and finished in Santiago and on to Muxia and Finisterre. I am planning on returning this coming spring and I am trying to decided between starting in very late March until the first week in May. Otherwise, it will be the 3rd week in May through June, due to a prior commitment. I am planning a little extra time, so that I am able to spend some extra time in some cities.

Any advice would be greatly itappreciated.

By the way, my name is Barb and I will be celebrating my 65th on the Camino, or close to it.

Thanks and Buen Camino
Barb
To sum it up: colder vs. busier. I left St. Jean PdP on April 11 last year and had many cold nights and days in the first weeks. And lots of rain and snow! No regrets.

Buen camino!
 
It started mid may twice now and loved it. Second time it was a bit crowded till pamplona, but i got my beds without problems. I have not walked in April, so can't compare, but i hear also lots of good things.
The problem with the crowding is, there can be lots of talk and speculation, but you will only know for certain when you're there with your feet on the ground.

Another thing that might me chose the may option is the festivities around St.Johns day on (or around?) June 24th. that can be quite the spectactle.
That is for sure a true statement. Until you are in the middle of it, everything is hard to predict.. Thanks so much.
 
Because Spanish people have a few days off during the Semana Santa (the Holy week) and many of them decide to walk a a part of the Camino then. Especially in the 'bottleneck' between SJPdP and Pamplona there are no beds available, so anyone who walks the Camino in that week: be sure you made your reservations!
Thanks for the advice. I was hoping to not have to make reservations, but I guess things have changed a lot since last time I was there. Most recently, on the Portuguese Camino, I was able to go without reservations in 2019. I guess things continue to change out there.
 
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Barb
To sum it up: colder vs. busier. I left St. Jean PdP on April 11 last year and had many cold nights and days in the first weeks. And lots of rain and snow! No regrets.

Buen camino!
James,
I think I like colder vs. busier, and I guess it is very hard to have regrets once you are out there. Last time, I dumped my sleeping bag before heading over the Pyrenees and used a mummy sack, I am guessing that won't be an option this time if I head out early. All things to consider. I love a light pack!
Thanks
 
You don't have to start in st Jean. If you want to see the Pyrenees and have a less crowded beginning, you could also start in Somport and walk the Aragones over to the CF where it joins in Puenta la Reina.

Or start in Pamplona...The bottleneck in early Spring and in early Sept is the first few days on St Jean. Fewer places to stay those first few days so reservations are often advised.
Hi,
I know, I don't have to, but I want to start there. Good to know about the bottleneck. Again, last time I was there, I did not experience crowds like that to Pamplona. I guess you never know.
Thanks
 
Hi Everyone,
The last time I was on the Camino Frances was 10 years ago and was there June and July. I started in St Jean and finished in Santiago and on to Muxia and Finisterre. I am planning on returning this coming spring and I am trying to decided between starting in very late March until the first week in May. Otherwise, it will be the 3rd week in May through June, due to a prior commitment. I am planning a little extra time, so that I am able to spend some extra time in some cities.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

By the way, my name is Barb and I will be celebrating my 65th on the Camino, or close to it.

Thanks and Buen Camino
Thanks to everyone for all of their kind words and great thoughts. I decided to make a decision and I am super excited that I will be on the Camino, once again, from March 28th - April 3rd. All booked and ready to go! I added in some extra time and can't wait to do a little exploring along the way, or a few extra days to trudge through some snow. I am so happy and thankful that we have this great forum to talk things out, it was super helpful for me! Everyone be safe and have fun out there and hopefully, I will see some of you on the Camino.

Buen Camino
Barb
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Thanks to everyone for all of their kind words and great thoughts. I decided to make a decision and I am super excited that I will be on the Camino, once again, from March 28th - April 3rd. All booked and ready to go! I added in some extra time and can't wait to do a little exploring along the way, or a few extra days to trudge through some snow. I am so happy and thankful that we have this great forum to talk things out, it was super helpful for me! Everyone be safe and have fun out there and hopefully, I will see some of you on the Camino.

Buen Camino
Barb
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