Backwards... Santiago to France - am I crazy?

[caro]

I find myself in Western Spain - close to Santiago. Looking to head east.

I was originally planning on making my way to St Jean to start, but as I am not doing this hike for religious reasons (more for a walking meditation) I think it might be wise to kill two birds with one stone, as it were, and walk my way into France, potentially much farther that St Jean.

My main concern is how well the trail is marked for those walking the other direction. While I am aware there are many people who do a round trip, these people have already seen the trail and will likely recognise if they have wandered off the trail. I have never been on the Camino before, so I am not sure what to expect.

Has anyone here ever walked the Camino Frances West to East? Any advice? Am I likely to miss diversions?

Any other thoughts on undertaking the route in reverse?

Thanks!
Caroline

 

[MeganG22]

I would imagine that you would still just look for the yellow arrows like we do...and walk straight in the other direction

It is definitely done by many, though not terribly common. I met people on my 2012 Camino who were going "the other way" and it is definitely possible. If I had unlimited time this Fall, I would be going to Finisterre and then turning right back around and heading back to France, but alas, not enough time. I think it is a great goal and I ask... Why not?? Go for it, if it becomes difficult, there are plenty of people nearby, vino tinto to drink, albergues to sleep in, and buses to take. Good luck!!

 

[tyrrek]

Hi! I've seen a few walking in reverse while on the Frances, but just a handful. At busy times it should be fairly straightforward due to the numbers walking in the other direction. If you don't pass anyone for more than a few minutes you might want to check that you're on route.

I'm not sure whether albergues have any restrictions on people walking back, but I doubt it.

The main difference I can think of is that you wouldn't form a Camino family in the same way, but there would still be company in the evenings. Oh, and you'll say 'buen camino' hundreds of times a day.

Buen Camino!

 

[caro]

I'm not sure whether albergues have any restrictions on people walking back, but I doubt it.

Thanks for the reminder, tyrrek - this was another thought - I wonder about the passport and whether albergues will have a problem with me collecting stamps in the reverse order - or if they really look or care?

I hope to sleep outdoors a fair amount, but will definitely want a bed some nights!

Cheers!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I would imagine that you would still just look for the yellow arrows like we do...and walk straight in the other direction

Actually, the reverse route is marked with spiral blue arrows. They are a lot less frequent.

 

[oursonpolaire]

While it is insane for us, this was the default for pilgrims for centuries. Having reached Santiago, they went back home. I do not know if I have seen more than a dozen or so over the years. One of them told me that it was great except for the hundreds of pilgrims telling her that she was going the wrong way, but she preferred seeing their faces to their packs and backsides. I saw lots of the blue directional arrows and, along with the oncoming pilgrims, you will have no trouble finding your way.

 

[jirit]

While walking the camino in 2011, I met a couple that had rode to Santiago and were now walking east back to Pamplona.

In the past long before easyjet, and high speed trains, this was the only way to get back home.

Today, not many people walk the camino west to east, but if you do, you will belong to a special group of pilgrims that have done so.

 

[kmrice]

It's harder than you might think (at least, it was harder than I expected) to walk a reverse route. If you are going west and come to a 4 way intersection and the sign tells you to turn right, you turn right. If you're coming up from the other direction you should see the sign, but you don't know what to do, unless there is one of Falcon's spiral blue arrows. I tried this from Muxia backwards some years ago, and had some problems.

But, if you got the GPS track and used a GPS or an app like MotionX, it would be a cinch.

Good Luck.

Karl

 

[MaryLynn]

I think if you had already done the Camino at least once, then it would be an interesting experience to walk it in reverse. However, as already mentioned, it is easy to get lost (as one Reverse Pilgrim told me), you will miss out on walking with a Camino family and extended community, you will be with a different group of pilgrims every night, you will be saying Buen Camino! many many times a day, and you will have to reassure many pilgrims and many locals that you really do know where you are going. Good luck!

 

[CISSA69]

So you want to be a "Yeo Yeo" ... over and back? Walking back is called a "Regresso" or the "Way of the Salmon" .... going against the flow .... Look out for the the blue sign in the photo as it is the sign to follow, often located on the opposite side of the Camino sign.

 

[hecate105]

We cycled most of the Norte and the Litoral up through France the wrong way. It was very difficult to follow the signs and trying to turn the directions around from the guide was sheer torture. But we were cycling and so may have missed some due to excessive speed (who am I kidding!) But if you have a map and not too much time pressure - then it doesn't really matter if you go awry in places, does it?! The important thing is to enjoy the journey and be aware (a mindfulness trip...) I expect from what I've heard that the Frances would be easier to follow backwards - just walk against the flow!
There is a certain sadness from only meeting pilgrims for a fleeting moment or one night in an albergue, but after we acclimatised to it - it became a joy - I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Albergues are provided to minister to pilgrims - whichever way you travel, forwards, backwards, zigzags.... enjoy.

 

[caro]

So to follow up then - I wonder how busy in general is the Camino Frances in early-mid October as I approach Pamplona - Saint-Jean? Am I likely to go an hour or more without passing another pilgrim?

Sounds like a good challenge, and while not in any rush I do have a strong pull East

Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts and experiences!

Oh, I'm a bit of a luddite - no gps for me.

 

[Olivares]

I met up with people walking Santiago-Ponferrada; it is not unheard off...

 

[tyrrek]

So to follow up then - I wonder how busy in general is the Camino Frances in early-mid October as I approach Pamplona - Saint-Jean? Am I likely to go an hour or more without passing another pilgrim?

By mid-October the first half of the Camino will be below its annual average numbers of pilgrims (the second half is still busy with the September starters walking through). The further back you go the quieter it will get. That said, the number of arrivals from Roncesvalles/SJPP in November is well over 1,000, so you should still walk past dozens of people a day.

 

[Kiwi-family]

We found it a bit tricky. I walked Pamplona to St Jean and leaving Zubiri was a nightmare! There is a three way intersection and nothing is marked. We ran back down the hill and asked pilgrims who were going the "right" way which track they had come down the previous day. A bit further on we came upon the same problem and this time it was too far to go back. We took the main track, but eventually it started heading downhill so we engaged brains and backtracked and tried the next one - we knew we should be walking uphill for a long time. At that time of the morning there were not yet pilgrims coming from the other direction and as we knew it would be a long day we could not hang about waiting to see if any would arrive. Oh, and it was raining;-)
We also walked back from Finisterre and I would say having walked it in one direction does not actually assist much. It looks so different coming the other way.
After a bit you get used to guessing which direction the pilgrims were probably approaching from depending on exactly where the signs are located.
All that said, and although we got lost most days that we went backwards, it was not impossible by any means. No problems with albergues.
The other option would be to get a map and just follow any of the GR trails - they are very very well marked.

 

[Dennis D]

Because most of the walk will be facing the sun, you might want to bring a very good pair of sunglasses and a hat that will give your face lots of shade.

 

[Pelgrimpaul]

Good answers above!
I met a girl from Canada and lack of indications were hard for her.
And, all day long you'll keep hearing: You're walking the wrong way!
But, the longer you walk, the more silence (non walkers) you get.
On other Camino routes in Spain, or pilgrimroutes to Santiago in Europe you can walk for a day without meeting fellow pilgrims.

 

[caro]

Thanks so much for the great replies - Kiwi-Family - that's exactly what I was expecting to hear. Glad you made it, and kept your spirits up, from the sounds of it!
Fortunately, my situation has changed such that I will be able to start in Saint-Jean-PdP and then fly east from Santiago.
Very happy about this.
See y'all on the Way!