LIVE from the Camino Burgos to Leon

[henrythedog]

For future reference, if you bring a zip-lock bag into a bar, they will usually put ice in it. Since you are also a fine consumer of their wares, they will do so cheerfully.

Free the vegetables!

Great minds think alike! (And fools seldom differ) It being Sunday there are no shops open, so I’ll procure some ice this evening.

 

[henrythedog]

Vegetarians, come back tomorrow

The especialidad of El Jardín in Mansilla is (are) embutidos; cured meats; artisanal and very high quality.

We’re also well into Bierzo country. I appreciate that the French (God bless you) have a deeply ingrained sense of ‘terroir’ - in rural Spain, it’s similar but instinctive. Ask for the best wine to go with this exceptional local produce and guess what? You’ll get one from down the road. You know you’ve made a decent choice when it comes in a crystal wine glass, not the cut-off jam jar which goes with the menu wine.

Mind you; I’m not a wine-snob. I’ve had Spanish, French and Italian offerings at well under €5/bottle which were entirely drinkable.

Several years ago in Rabanal del Camino; where mine host had offered me a ‘comedy’ pickled chilli from the jar on the bar, and the locals looked on in anticipation, surprised that I ate it and asked for more - I was about to embark on my fourth small glass of wine. I said ‘ just leave me the bottle’ and not only was I not charged, but got a euro back. It was €1/glass to passing trade; €3 for the bottle.

 

[henrythedog]

Ooh! We’re on page 2. Nothing gets to page 2 except ‘can I take my poles as carry-on?’ and the ever reliable @C clearly has scuppered that by actually answering the question.

 

[donalomahony]

Vegetarians, come back tomorrow

The especialidad of El Jardín in Mansilla is (are) embutidos; cured meats; artisanal and very high quality.

We’re also well into Bierzo country. I appreciate that the French (God bless you) have a deeply ingrained sense of ‘terroir’ - in rural Spain, it’s similar but instinctive. Ask for the best wine to go with this exceptional local produce and guess what? You’ll get one from down the road. You know you’ve made a decent choice when it comes in a crystal wine glass, not the cut-off jam jar which goes with the menu wine.

Mind you; I’m not a wine-snob. I’ve had Spanish, French and Italian offerings at well under €5/bottle which were entirely drinkable.

Several years ago in Rabanal del Camino; where mine host had offered me a ‘comedy’ pickled chilli from the jar on the bar, and the locals looked on in anticipation, surprised that I ate it and asked for more - I was about to embark on my fourth small glass of wine. I said ‘ just leave me the bottle’ and not only was I not charged, but got a euro back. It was €1/glass to passing trade; €3 for the bottle.


View attachment 121901

Yes, the cured meats there are excellent, I can also recommend a bottle of this...

New item by Donal O' Mahony

photos.app.goo.gl

A bit on the pricey side, but lovely and one of the few places I found that had it on their wine list

 

[henrythedog]

Yes, the cured meats there are excellent, I can also recommend a bottle of this...

New item by Donal O' Mahony

photos.app.goo.gl

A bit on the pricey side, but lovely and one of the few places I found that had it on their wine list

I’m fortunate enough, within reason, to start with quality not price. No pockets in a shroud. Thanks.

 

[donalomahony]

I’m fortunate enough, within reason, to start with quality not price. No pockets in a shroud. Thanks.

 

[ebrandt]

Some folk describe their weight-loss on Camino. For some unaccountable reason I’ve never had that problem. I suspect a slow metabolism.

...certainly not the result of the wine, cured meats, and sundry other lovely gourmet tidbits..... oh, and the bread, lovely Spanish bread.... and whole milk in cafe con leche... and... and...

 

[ebrandt]

I should have added that like you, @henrythedog, I have never once lost weight on a camino....

 

[henrythedog]

Settle in dear reader - make a cup of tea and pull up a chair. We’re nearing a conclusion and I’ve time on my hands, so this might be a long one.

Another exceptional day as I waddled in brilliant sunshine from Mansilla to Leon where the coincidence of the cathedral and the Barrio Húmedo should provide solutions to all of my spiritual and temporal needs.

The route runs fairly straight through Villarente and Valdelafuente with sufficient stops en route. A fair bit of tarmac and concrete, but that’s to be expected.

Last night saw the largest meeting of Peregrinos thus far. Only el Jardín was open and there were 20-30 of us there at one time. A mixture of the wide-eyed and world-weary. We had the dreaded full-time funster of whom I’m always sceptical: it’s not natural to be in party-mode 24/7. I go for ‘nicely depressed’ it gives scope for delight and disappointment.

On setting out this morning I could see a line of five others in front of me; not a sight that’s been seen this week.

Leon comes into view as you crest the final rise and the view of the cathedral, even when now surrounded by city-centre high-rise is impressive; even to a jaundiced old cynic like me. The impression that must have created many years ago to Peregrinos hailing from single-story wooden buildings in far-flung places is incomprehensible. If physical evidence was needed of the majesty of God, then here it still is.

I try not to be judgemental - I wouldn’t fare too well if that were reciprocated by most others - but if, as did my younger associates last night, you greet the arrival of a mass-produced frozen dessert as ‘awesome’; you’re not leaving much emotional headroom to respond, for example, to the first sight of the cathedral rising out of the city with the snow-capped mountains beyond.

The cathedral stands comparison with Burgos, and Santiago; is much lighter inside but is small by comparison with Sevilla which has the immeasurable added advantage of the adjacent Bodega Santa Cruz.

Leon does it’s best to compensate by way of the Barrio Humido (wet quarter) where I have spent many a merry evening. Two favourites are El Gaucho and Jamon Jamon, although the latter may have closed and reopened so will have to be verified later. (Later: open, still excellent - go there!) I’m typing this in El Gaucho with a glass of Albariño and the house speciality ‘Gaviota’; a crab salad mixture on a puffed wheat cracker. Sadly the fresh crab of years gone-by has been replaced by a more synthetic product; but it’s still very good. (Last photo below, I’ve tried to attach it as a thumbnail, but I think I’ve failed)

I have stayed in the Barrio Húmedo previously; but older and wiser I’ve gone for the up-market guest house attached to a Benedictine monastery - the Hospedería Monastica Pax. A fraction more pricy at €108 for two nights including what promises to be an excellent breakfast; but the room overlooks the cloisters. It’s vast and comfortable, with an icon on the wall and only mineral water in the mini-bar.

The relative nature of the various monastic orders is an embarrassing gap in my knowledge which I must rectify. One of my favourite authors Patrick Leigh-Fermor’s book ‘a time to keep silence’ describes his time in various monasteries in France in the 70’s and is an interesting read.

Anyway - the Benedictines must be loaded. The complex is vast including monastery, guesthouse, adjacent church and where I am which is basically a hotel.

Stay right in the centre, especially at weekend, and sleep will be at a premium. The natives can get a bit frisky and it’s common for the loud sound of partying to carry on to 4 in the morning.

Tonight will see the expected grand-tour of the Barrio Húmedo. Setting out with nothing I’m not prepared to lose - I couldn’t repeat my performance of the 1980’s described earlier. I can still do a convincing impression of ‘don’t mess with me’, but the reality would fall embarrassingly short.

Tomorrow will be devoted to more spiritual matters. The cathedral deserves a slow visit and I’ll go to Mass. That, specifically, to give thanks for Mrs Henrythedog and Henry the (actual) dog but for more recent and unexpected blessings also; the pharmacist in Fromista; Manuelo the aspiring test-pilot and for you, dear reader, for accompanying me on the journey.

Nearly finished.

And so it’s time to draw this travelogue to a close. My return to Madrid will largely repeat my arrival in reverse other than I’ll be first in the queue at el museo del prado on Thursday morning and will head straight in to the Goya and Velazquez; whilst everyone else is distracted by the cafe and whatever’s nearest. It’s a rare moment in which to appreciate real artistry for half an hour before the tick-list tourists arrive.

Now, be honest, you weren’t expecting that, were you? It’s Mrs Henrythedog’s influence - she has a good Degree in Classics and Art History, of which I’m very proud indeed. It must have rubbed off on me.

I’ll go and work my way along C.Jesus later; just to restore equilibrium.

I did forget earlier to highlight one culinary ‘must visit’ in the area between Sol and P.Major in Madrid and that’s the Mercado San Miguel. A common format, it’s a huge collection of exceptional food stalls; one of which I’d especially recommend.

Restaurante Señor Martin is one of the best fish restaurants in Madrid, and very expensive, and so I save it for special occasions - but here they have an outpost selling finger food. You’ll not be disappointed.

I’m privileged in that I have the time, funds and proximity to Spain to just head over when I’ve nothing more pressing in the diary - but I hope I demonstrate that one can make a worthwhile, interesting and enjoyable trip even if a compostella isn’t the outcome.

[The serious bit]

Comedy comes from different places; but most comedians use it - whether they admit it or not - as a defence. The little kids use it to be part of the gang.

I never was one of the little kids, so I use it slightly differently. I don’t handle silence well - too much of my history, especially in my 20’s in the army and elsewhere - is not conducive to an untroubled mind; but I’m fairly bright, have a good memory and (I don’t think I’ve often said this); appreciate an audience. I fill the silence with my internal dialogue and all I’ve done here is type out with one finger what I’m already saying to myself.

Anyway - whenever you can - get out and do something. You’re a long time dead as my late maternal grandmother (who else!) would say.

Virtually all of the content of this thread is true, although adjectives have been added. Any representation of actual persons dead or alive is entirely intentional and probably depicts them in a better light than they deserve. No animals were harmed* (in fact Henry the actual dog was loved to bits) in the writing of this thread.

With the kind permission of Mrs Henrythedog, ojalá, I will be off the lead again and back on Camino later this year. Please join me again for another episode of ‘Taking the dog for a walk in Spain’.

To close: a poem. This one is by the sadly deceased poet from Bolton, near my birthplace, one Hovis Presley. He had a short and troubled life - google him if you wish. The original was entitled ‘Girlfriend’ but I have re-gendered it, as is so fashionable these days:

“As good things go; he went”

Hasta luego dear reader, y buen camino.

(*I forgot about the pheasant. Sorry.)

(I was going to close with a joke as you might think more typical; but I hesitated. I respect the modus operandi of this forum and the clear rules. Whether my essay has any comedic value isn’t for me to say, but everything has a thread of Camino running through it, and so it has been excused. It would be stretching the goodwill of the excellent moderators too far to simply start posting content with no Camino relevance. They apply the rules without fear or favour, but a bucket-load of humanity; (That’s you I’m looking at, Pat); so I have a cunning plan.

Whoever chooses to react the next and final post will get what I consider to be the best joke in the world by PM sometime later this week whilst I’m in transit. It is in no way rude, but might not be in the best possible taste. It’s up to you.

 

[henrythedog]

The last post as referred to above.

 

[Former member 49149]

Well, well, well. My much loved youngest brother (died too soon, bloody old brain tumours) - those three words were the end of his earliest joke as an infant...
Never mind. Please tell Mrs henrythedog we all sympathise with her. You know yourself, dear writer, how much fun you have given.
Just tanx a million. And I know who Pat is, so I do! Hasta la próxima...

 

[domigee]

Settle in dear reader - make a cup of tea and pull up a chair. We’re nearing a conclusion and I’ve time on my hands, so this might be a long one.

Another exceptional day as I waddled in brilliant sunshine from Mansilla to Leon where the coincidence of the cathedral and the Barrio Húmedo should provide solutions to all of my spiritual and temporal needs.

The route runs fairly straight through Villarente and Valdelafuente with sufficient stops en route. A fair bit of tarmac and concrete, but that’s to be expected.

Last night saw the largest meeting of Peregrinos thus far. Only el Jardín was open and there were 20-30 of us there at one time. A mixture of the wide-eyed and world-weary. We had the dreaded full-time funster of whom I’m always sceptical: it’s not natural to be in party-mode 24/7. I go for ‘nicely depressed’ it gives scope for delight and disappointment.

On setting out this morning I could see a line of five others in front of me; not a sight that’s been seen this week.

Leon comes into view as you crest the final rise and the view of the cathedral, even when now surrounded by city-centre high-rise is impressive; even to a jaundiced old cynic like me. The impression that must have created many years ago to Peregrinos hailing from single-story wooden buildings in far-flung places is incomprehensible. If physical evidence was needed of the majesty of God, then here it still is.

I try not to be judgemental - I wouldn’t fare too well if that were reciprocated by most others - but if, as did my younger associates last night, you hail the arrival of a mass-produced frozen dessert as ‘awesome’; you’re not leaving much emotional headroom to respond, for example, to the first sight of the cathedral rising out of the city with the snow-capped mountains beyond.

The cathedral stands comparison with Burgos, and Santiago; is much lighter inside but is small by comparison with Sevilla which has the immeasurable added advantage of the adjacent Bodega Santa Cruz.

Leon does it’s best to compensate by way of the Barrio Humido (wet quarter) where I have spent many a merry evening. Two favourites are El Gaucho and Jamon Jamon, although the latter may have closed and reopened so will have to be verified later. I’m typing this in El Gaucho with a glass of Albariño and the house speciality ‘Gaviota’; a crab salad mixture on a puffed wheat cracker. Sadly the fresh crab of years gone-by has been replaced by a more synthetic product; but it’s still very good. (Last photo below, I’ve tried to attach it as a thumbnail, but I think I’ve failed)

I have stayed in the Barrio Húmedo previously; but older and wiser I’ve gone for the up-market guest house attached to a Benedictine monastery - the Hospedería Monastica Pax. A fraction more pricy at €108 for two nights including what promises to be an excellent breakfast; but the room overlooks the cloisters. It’s vast and comfortable, with an icon on the wall and only mineral water in the mini-bar.

The relative nature of the various monastic orders is an embarrassing gap in my knowledge which I must rectify. One of my favourite authors Patrick Leigh-Fermor’s book ‘a time to keep silence’ describes his time in various monasteries in France in the 70’s and is an interesting read.

Anyway - the Benedictines must be loaded. The complex is vast including monastery, guesthouse, adjacent church and where I am which is basically a hotel.

Stay right in the centre, especially at weekend, and sleep will be at a premium. The natives can get a bit frisky and it’s common for the loud sound of partying to carry on to 4 in the morning.

Tonight will see the expected grand-tour of the Barrio Húmedo. Setting out with nothing I’m not prepared to lose - I couldn’t repeat my performance of the 1980’s described earlier. I can still do a convincing impression of ‘don’t mess with me’, but the reality would fall embarrassingly short.

Tomorrow will be devoted to more spiritual matters. The cathedral deserves a slow visit and I’ll go to Mass. That, specifically, to give thanks for Mrs Henrythedog and Henry the (actual) dog but for more recent and unexpected blessings also; the pharmacist in Fromista; Manuelo the aspiring test-pilot and for you, dear reader, for accompanying me on the journey.

Nearly finished.

And so it’s time to draw this travelogue to a close. My return to Madrid will largely repeat my arrival in reverse other than I’ll be first in the queue at el museo del prado on Thursday morning and will head straight in to the Goya and Velazquez; whilst everyone else is distracted by the cafe and whatever’s nearest. It’s a rare moment in which to appreciate real artistry for half an hour before the tick-list tourists arrive.

Now, be honest, you weren’t expecting that, were you? It’s Mrs Henrythedog’s influence - she has a good Degree in Classics and Art History, of which I’m very proud indeed. It must have rubbed off on me.

I’ll go and work my way along C.Jesus later; just to restore equilibrium.

I did forget earlier to highlight one culinary ‘must visit’ in the area between Sol and P.Major in Madrid and that’s the Mercado San Miguel. A common format, it’s a huge collection of exceptional food stalls; one of which I’d especially recommend.

Restaurante Señor Martin is one of the best fish restaurants in Madrid, and very expensive, and so I save it for special occasions - but here they have an outpost selling finger food. You’ll not be disappointed.

I’m privileged in that I have the time, funds and proximity to Spain to just head over when I’ve nothing more pressing in the diary - but I hope I demonstrate that one can make a worthwhile, interesting and enjoyable trip even if a compostella isn’t the outcome.

[The serious bit]

Comedy comes from different places; but most comedians use it - whether they admit it or not - as a defence. The little kids use it to be part of the gang.

I never was one of the little kids, so I use it slightly differently. I don’t handle silence well - too much of my history, especially in my 20’s in the army and elsewhere - is not conducive to an untroubled mind; but I’m fairly bright, have a good memory and (I don’t think I’ve often said this); appreciate an audience. I fill the silence with my internal dialogue and all I’ve done here is type out with one finger what I’m already saying to myself.

Anyway - whenever you can - get out and do something. You’re a long time dead as my late maternal grandmother (who else!) would say.

Virtually all of the content of this thread is true, although adjectives have been added. Any representation of actual persons dead or alive is entirely intentional and probably depicts them in a better light than they deserve. No animals were harmed* (in fact Henry the actual dog was loved to bits) in the writing of this thread.

With the kind permission of Mrs Henrythedog, ojalá, I will be off the lead again and back on Camino later this year. Please join me again for another episode of ‘Taking the dog for a walk in Spain’.

To close: a poem. This one is by the sadly deceased poet from Bolton, near my birthplace, one Hovis Presley. He had a short and troubled life - google him if you wish. The original was entitled ‘Girlfriend’ but I have re-gendered it, as is so fashionable these days:

“As good things go; he went”

Hasta luego dear reader, y buen camino.

(*I forgot about the pheasant. Sorry.)

(I was going to close with a joke as you might think more typical; but I hesitated. I respect the modus operandi of this forum and the clear rules. Whether my essay has any comedic value isn’t for me to say, but everything has a thread of Camino running through it, and so it has been excused. It would be stretching the goodwill of the excellent moderators too far to simply start posting content with no Camino relevance. They apply the rules without fear or favour, but a bucket-load of humanity; (That’s you I’m looking at, Pat); so I have a cunning plan.

Whoever chooses to react the next and final post will get what I consider to be the best joke in the world by PM sometime later this week whilst I’m in transit. It is in no way rude, but might not be in the best possible taste. It’s up to you.


View attachment 121956View attachment 121956

Fabulous thread, really enjoyed reading it! And to think I nearly missed it!
Thanks. Safe journey back.

 

[Stewpot]

Thanks for a great read and a good laugh.

 

[Kathar1na]

@henrythedog, you ought to have the last word in this thread and I barely dare to post a mundane reply such as this one. But since you mentioned the sight of the Leon Cathedral from afar, and the Hospederia Pax Monastica where you stayed, and that you appreciate an audience, here's another glimpse of a reaction that goes beyond and : I think that you are the first poster on the forum who describes it like this: the view of the cathedral, even when now surrounded by city-centre high-rise is impressive; even to a jaundiced old cynic like me. The impression that must have created many years ago to Peregrinos hailing from single-story wooden buildings in far-flung places is incomprehensible. If physical evidence was needed of the majesty of God, then here it still is.

I love these views, and have similar thoughts each time I see it: Burgos, Reims, Cologne ... it rained when we approached Leon and I do not recall such a view. I remember it from Burgos where we walked the mandatory detour at the time. Your description makes me want to walk into Leon again but on a clear day. Also, for the second time now, I wholeheartedly approve of your choice of accommodation . I still vividly remember the embroidered monogram on the crisp white sheets of the hospederia and the timetable of the daily liturgy that is posted in the elevator; that we could walk from the hotel reception area through a corridor right into the chapel where we could join the Benedictines during the evening vespers (I think). The breakfast was not too bad either.

Thank you and Buen Camino wherever you walk!

 

[henrythedog]

@henrythedog, you ought to have the last word in this thread and I barely dare to post a mundane reply such as this one. But since you mentioned the sight of the Leon Cathedral from afar, and the Hospederia Pax Monastica where you stayed, and that you appreciate an audience, here's another glimpse of a reaction that goes beyond and : I think that you are the first poster on the forum who describes it like this: the view of the cathedral, even when now surrounded by city-centre high-rise is impressive; even to a jaundiced old cynic like me. The impression that must have created many years ago to Peregrinos hailing from single-story wooden buildings in far-flung places is incomprehensible. If physical evidence was needed of the majesty of God, then here it still is.

I love these views, and have similar thoughts each time I see it: Burgos, Reims, Cologne ... it rained when we approached Leon and I do not recall such a view. I remember it from Burgos where we walked the mandatory detour at the time. Your description makes me want to walk into Leon again but on a clear day. Also, for the second time now, I wholeheartedly approve of your choice of accommodation . I still vividly remember the embroidered monogram on the crisp white sheets of the hospederia and the timetable of the daily liturgy that is posted in the elevator; that we could walk from the hotel reception area through a corridor right into the chapel where we could join the Benedictines during the evening vespers (I think). The breakfast was not too bad either.

Thank you and Buen Camino wherever you walk!

Dear @Kathar1na (my sincere apologies for an earlier hurried typo)

Like Henry the (actual) dog when a puppy I find myself returning to the scene of the crime. I have just seen the very notice on the elevator that you refer to, and I’m delighted. With Mrs Htd I’ve been through the full cycle of services at Montserrat and this is too good an opportunity to miss. I’ll set my alarm clock. Now I really must go, the Barrio Humido needs a cash injection.

Sincere regards

David

 

[Peregrinopaul]

The last post as referred to above.

No it wasn’t - the above was. I hope I’m first. I’ll watch the little envelope for a short while, but heck, it’s 4am here. Your musings have been a highlight of recent days. Thanks mate.

 

[Annette london]

Settle in dear reader - make a cup of tea and pull up a chair. We’re nearing a conclusion and I’ve time on my hands, so this might be a long one.

Another exceptional day as I waddled in brilliant sunshine from Mansilla to Leon where the coincidence of the cathedral and the Barrio Húmedo should provide solutions to all of my spiritual and temporal needs.

The route runs fairly straight through Villarente and Valdelafuente with sufficient stops en route. A fair bit of tarmac and concrete, but that’s to be expected.

Last night saw the largest meeting of Peregrinos thus far. Only el Jardín was open and there were 20-30 of us there at one time. A mixture of the wide-eyed and world-weary. We had the dreaded full-time funster of whom I’m always sceptical: it’s not natural to be in party-mode 24/7. I go for ‘nicely depressed’ it gives scope for delight and disappointment.

On setting out this morning I could see a line of five others in front of me; not a sight that’s been seen this week.

Leon comes into view as you crest the final rise and the view of the cathedral, even when now surrounded by city-centre high-rise is impressive; even to a jaundiced old cynic like me. The impression that must have created many years ago to Peregrinos hailing from single-story wooden buildings in far-flung places is incomprehensible. If physical evidence was needed of the majesty of God, then here it still is.

I try not to be judgemental - I wouldn’t fare too well if that were reciprocated by most others - but if, as did my younger associates last night, you greet the arrival of a mass-produced frozen dessert as ‘awesome’; you’re not leaving much emotional headroom to respond, for example, to the first sight of the cathedral rising out of the city with the snow-capped mountains beyond.

The cathedral stands comparison with Burgos, and Santiago; is much lighter inside but is small by comparison with Sevilla which has the immeasurable added advantage of the adjacent Bodega Santa Cruz.

Leon does it’s best to compensate by way of the Barrio Humido (wet quarter) where I have spent many a merry evening. Two favourites are El Gaucho and Jamon Jamon, although the latter may have closed and reopened so will have to be verified later. (Later: open, still excellent - go there!) I’m typing this in El Gaucho with a glass of Albariño and the house speciality ‘Gaviota’; a crab salad mixture on a puffed wheat cracker. Sadly the fresh crab of years gone-by has been replaced by a more synthetic product; but it’s still very good. (Last photo below, I’ve tried to attach it as a thumbnail, but I think I’ve failed)

I have stayed in the Barrio Húmedo previously; but older and wiser I’ve gone for the up-market guest house attached to a Benedictine monastery - the Hospedería Monastica Pax. A fraction more pricy at €108 for two nights including what promises to be an excellent breakfast; but the room overlooks the cloisters. It’s vast and comfortable, with an icon on the wall and only mineral water in the mini-bar.

The relative nature of the various monastic orders is an embarrassing gap in my knowledge which I must rectify. One of my favourite authors Patrick Leigh-Fermor’s book ‘a time to keep silence’ describes his time in various monasteries in France in the 70’s and is an interesting read.

Anyway - the Benedictines must be loaded. The complex is vast including monastery, guesthouse, adjacent church and where I am which is basically a hotel.

Stay right in the centre, especially at weekend, and sleep will be at a premium. The natives can get a bit frisky and it’s common for the loud sound of partying to carry on to 4 in the morning.

Tonight will see the expected grand-tour of the Barrio Húmedo. Setting out with nothing I’m not prepared to lose - I couldn’t repeat my performance of the 1980’s described earlier. I can still do a convincing impression of ‘don’t mess with me’, but the reality would fall embarrassingly short.

Tomorrow will be devoted to more spiritual matters. The cathedral deserves a slow visit and I’ll go to Mass. That, specifically, to give thanks for Mrs Henrythedog and Henry the (actual) dog but for more recent and unexpected blessings also; the pharmacist in Fromista; Manuelo the aspiring test-pilot and for you, dear reader, for accompanying me on the journey.

Nearly finished.

And so it’s time to draw this travelogue to a close. My return to Madrid will largely repeat my arrival in reverse other than I’ll be first in the queue at el museo del prado on Thursday morning and will head straight in to the Goya and Velazquez; whilst everyone else is distracted by the cafe and whatever’s nearest. It’s a rare moment in which to appreciate real artistry for half an hour before the tick-list tourists arrive.

Now, be honest, you weren’t expecting that, were you? It’s Mrs Henrythedog’s influence - she has a good Degree in Classics and Art History, of which I’m very proud indeed. It must have rubbed off on me.

I’ll go and work my way along C.Jesus later; just to restore equilibrium.

I did forget earlier to highlight one culinary ‘must visit’ in the area between Sol and P.Major in Madrid and that’s the Mercado San Miguel. A common format, it’s a huge collection of exceptional food stalls; one of which I’d especially recommend.

Restaurante Señor Martin is one of the best fish restaurants in Madrid, and very expensive, and so I save it for special occasions - but here they have an outpost selling finger food. You’ll not be disappointed.

I’m privileged in that I have the time, funds and proximity to Spain to just head over when I’ve nothing more pressing in the diary - but I hope I demonstrate that one can make a worthwhile, interesting and enjoyable trip even if a compostella isn’t the outcome.

[The serious bit]

Comedy comes from different places; but most comedians use it - whether they admit it or not - as a defence. The little kids use it to be part of the gang.

I never was one of the little kids, so I use it slightly differently. I don’t handle silence well - too much of my history, especially in my 20’s in the army and elsewhere - is not conducive to an untroubled mind; but I’m fairly bright, have a good memory and (I don’t think I’ve often said this); appreciate an audience. I fill the silence with my internal dialogue and all I’ve done here is type out with one finger what I’m already saying to myself.

Anyway - whenever you can - get out and do something. You’re a long time dead as my late maternal grandmother (who else!) would say.

Virtually all of the content of this thread is true, although adjectives have been added. Any representation of actual persons dead or alive is entirely intentional and probably depicts them in a better light than they deserve. No animals were harmed* (in fact Henry the actual dog was loved to bits) in the writing of this thread.

With the kind permission of Mrs Henrythedog, ojalá, I will be off the lead again and back on Camino later this year. Please join me again for another episode of ‘Taking the dog for a walk in Spain’.

To close: a poem. This one is by the sadly deceased poet from Bolton, near my birthplace, one Hovis Presley. He had a short and troubled life - google him if you wish. The original was entitled ‘Girlfriend’ but I have re-gendered it, as is so fashionable these days:

“As good things go; he went”

Hasta luego dear reader, y buen camino.

(*I forgot about the pheasant. Sorry.)

(I was going to close with a joke as you might think more typical; but I hesitated. I respect the modus operandi of this forum and the clear rules. Whether my essay has any comedic value isn’t for me to say, but everything has a thread of Camino running through it, and so it has been excused. It would be stretching the goodwill of the excellent moderators too far to simply start posting content with no Camino relevance. They apply the rules without fear or favour, but a bucket-load of humanity; (That’s you I’m looking at, Pat); so I have a cunning plan.

Whoever chooses to react the next and final post will get what I consider to be the best joke in the world by PM sometime later this week whilst I’m in transit. It is in no way rude, but might not be in the best possible taste. It’s up to you.


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A brilliant account,…thank you
A few of your words reminded me of my Dad, now long departed and a few of his “sayings”
There are no pockets in a shroud.
You can’t take it with you
You‘re a long time dead
so true

 

[C clearly]

Thank you!

 

[nycwalking]

I was enjoying myself.

Well all good things come to an end.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[wayfarer]

"It would be stretching the goodwill of the excellent moderators too far to simply start posting content with no Camino relevance. They apply the rules without fear or favour, but a bucket-load of humanity; (That’s you I’m looking at, Pat); so I have a cunning plan."
I also will be watching that little envelope for a notification.

 

[Lindsay from Scotland]

The last post as referred to above.

Thank you !
You’ve made me think, made me laugh. I just loved your descriptions of familiar places.
If you are ever in need a troubadour on the camino. ‘Waltzing Matilda’ and myself are at your command.
Lindsay

 

[Anniesantiago]

This wonderful thread came just when I needed a laugh and a distraction.
Your adventures have made my heart so happy.

When yet another pilgrim tells me they're writing a book, I usually groan and say, "Another one?!"
But you really DO need to write, henrythedog's master - for each day you left us wanting more.
Thank you so much and
Buen Camino!