LIVE from the Camino Burgos to Leon

[henrythedog]

After two and a half years of pontificating, giving offence and generally embarrassing myself on here - finally - I’m back on the Camino in 48 hours time. I’ve done the CF three times, the Ingles, part of the Madrid and several repeat sections of which this is yet another.

Flying into and out of Madrid and by train to Burgos then back from Leon. It’s a long distance pub-crawl really. Don’t judge me.

I used the downtime to precisely evaluate and weigh all my kit, shaving off a gramme here and there. I also shed 10kg of body weight.

At the last moment I’ve ditched the frameless rucksack and paclite jacket and reverted to my Kestrel 38 and a bombproof waterproof with all the pockets in the right places. It’s actually going to be colder and wetter in Spain than in Cumbria.

A new addition to my sack (along with my Casa Ivar badge, the Union Flag and a ‘48%’ badge) is a Ukrainian flag.

I’ve dug out my ‘bits and pieces’ credencial (which is five credenciales taped together) and affixed a new blank one.

In no time at all I’ll be settled into a decent bar in Madrid.

More anon.

 

[MaryLynn]

Have a wonderful trip! Have a pint for me!
Looking forward to your updates.

 

[Tincatinker]

In no time at all I’ll be settled into a decent bar in Madrid.

More anon.

Buen Camino amigo. I've always been rather fond of Los Gatos, C. de Jesús, 2

Index - Cervecería Los Gatos

cervecerialosgatos.com

But then I've developed attachments to most of the premises along that splendid street

 

[henrythedog]

Buen Camino amigo. I've always been rather fond of Los Gatos, C. de Jesús, 2

Index - Cervecería Los Gatos

cervecerialosgatos.com

But then I've developed attachments to most of the premises along that splendid street

Yes, Calle Jesus is an old haunt. I used to stay in Pension Gonzalo just round the corner on C.Cervantes but I’ve defected to Hostal Mayor on Sol.

The decor in Los Gatos is eclectic, including a decent rendition of ‘La Maja Desnuda’ on the wall. There is only one barstool, chained in the left corner in which my wife has probably worn a fair impression over the years. They have a ‘sister’ establishment in Malaga.

Neighbouring hostelries are also well worth a visit.

I show my cultural flexibility by converting to either Ribiera or Rioja whilst in Spain; but Los Gatos has a strange practice of ‘degassing’ their beer by excessively over-pouring the glass. My complaint at the absurd practice had me hoofed-out of the Malaga outlet several years ago; but they probably don’t remember it as well as I do.

 

[Grousedoctor]

So glad to learn about Los Gatos in Madrid. Their website makes it a must visit place in my book. As we’ll be traveling home through Madrid in early May, Los Gatos is now on our list. Thanks and Buen Camino!

 

[palmah]

After two and a half years of pontificating, giving offence and generally embarrassing myself on here - finally - I’m back on the Camino in 48 hours time. I’ve done the CF three times, the Ingles, part of the Madrid and several repeat sections of which this is yet another.

Flying into and out of Madrid and by train to Burgos then back from Leon. It’s a long distance pub-crawl really. Don’t judge me.

I used the downtime to precisely evaluate and weigh all my kit, shaving off a gramme here and there. I also shed 10kg of body weight.

At the last moment I’ve ditched the frameless rucksack and paclite jacket and reverted to my Kestrel 38 and a bombproof waterproof with all the pockets in the right places. It’s actually going to be colder and wetter in Spain than in Cumbria.

A new addition to my sack (along with my Casa Ivar badge, the Union Flag and a ‘48%’ badge) is a Ukrainian flag.

I’ve dug out my ‘bits and pieces’ credencial (which is five credenciales taped together) and affixed a new blank one.

In no time at all I’ll be settled into a decent bar in Madrid.

More anon.

We arrived in Burgos today having to cut short our Camino due to injury. We’re staying in the old town and while doing our own pub crawl we ran into a glorious procession with the swaying “float”, the brass instruments and of course the steady drumbeat. I feel so lucky to see this. We leave Burgos Tuesday morning- maybe we’ll run into you! I’ll be the short gray haired lady with her left arm in a cast!

 

[henrythedog]

We arrived in Burgos today having to cut short our Camino due to injury. We’re staying in the old town and while doing our own pub crawl we ran into a glorious procession with the swaying “float”, the brass instruments and of course the steady drumbeat. I feel so lucky to see this. We leave Burgos Tuesday morning- maybe we’ll run into you! I’ll be the short gray haired lady with her left arm in a cast!

If you haven’t tried the Cojonudo (with morcilla - black pudding) or Cojonuda (with chorizo) at Casa Pancho on Calle San Lorenzo (patron saint of firefighters, comedians and BBQ chefs - google it) you’re leaving town too early. I’ll be in Burgos late on Tuesday. I hope you recover quickly.

 

[alexwalker]

After two and a half years of pontificating, giving offence and generally embarrassing myself on here - finally - I’m back on the Camino in 48 hours time. I’ve done the CF three times, the Ingles, part of the Madrid and several repeat sections of which this is yet another.

Flying into and out of Madrid and by train to Burgos then back from Leon. It’s a long distance pub-crawl really. Don’t judge me.

I used the downtime to precisely evaluate and weigh all my kit, shaving off a gramme here and there. I also shed 10kg of body weight.

At the last moment I’ve ditched the frameless rucksack and paclite jacket and reverted to my Kestrel 38 and a bombproof waterproof with all the pockets in the right places. It’s actually going to be colder and wetter in Spain than in Cumbria.

A new addition to my sack (along with my Casa Ivar badge, the Union Flag and a ‘48%’ badge) is a Ukrainian flag.

I’ve dug out my ‘bits and pieces’ credencial (which is five credenciales taped together) and affixed a new blank one.

In no time at all I’ll be settled into a decent bar in Madrid.

More anon.

Enjoy your pints of beer (Peregrino gasolino: Good for another rapid 8 kms).

 

[henrythedog]

Enjoy your pints of beer (Peregrino gasolino: Good for another rapid 8 kms).

I shall make a point of calculating my miles per gallon. (Spoiler alert: probably not many) Thank you.

 

[alexwalker]

I shall make a point of calculating my miles per gallon. (Spoiler alert: probably not many) Thank you.

I have to say: One of the great joys is to sit down in the Spanish heat with a cold beer and just relax, pack and shoes off.

 

[palmah]

If you haven’t tried the Cojonudo (with morcilla - black pudding) or Cojonuda (with chorizo) at Casa Pancho on Calle San Lorenzo (patron saint of firefighters, comedians and BBQ chefs - google it) you’re leaving town too early. I’ll be in Burgos late on Tuesday. I hope you recover quickly.

Haha! Casa Pancho is our favorite place. Cullen is especially fond of the Tigre they serve. Looks like we’ll miss each other this go round. We usually volunteer at Albergue Emaus a couple of weeks a year so maybe another time. When we arrived today we went looking for another favorite of ours - a bar that only serves Vermut. Unfortunately it has been replaced There is another bar that specializes in Vermut but it lacks the character of the owner. Take care! Palma

 

[henrythedog]

I’ll sign off on here for now and resume late Monday.

If you’re looking for cultural and religious highlights or detail on how my choice of footwear is holding up, you’re in the wrong place. This is the food and beverage section.

 

[dbier]

; looking forward to your account

 

[Elle Bieling]

Buen Camino and thanks for the belly laughs!

 

[Chris Gi]

If you haven’t tried the Cojonudo (with morcilla - black pudding) or Cojonuda (with chorizo) at Casa Pancho on Calle San Lorenzo (patron saint of firefighters, comedians and BBQ chefs - google it) you’re leaving town too early. I’ll be in Burgos late on Tuesday. I hope you recover quickly.

Love black pudding - can't persuade any of my California friends to even look at it!

 

[palmah]

We arrived in Burgos today having to cut short our Camino due to injury. We’re staying in the old town and while doing our own pub crawl we ran into a glorious procession with the swaying “float”, the brass instruments and of course the steady drumbeat. I feel so lucky to see this. We leave Burgos Tuesday morning- maybe we’ll run into you! I’ll be the short gray haired lady with her left arm in a cast!

 

[henrythedog]

Monday evening: so far, so good. 3 hours 45 from takeoff in Liverpool to unpacking in Madrid. Hard to beat that.

Immigration and health-form- checking at Madrid is seamless, as it was in Malaga. Very efficient. The Aerobús to Atocha appears unaffected by inflation at €5, thereafter it’s a brisk stroll up c.Atocha to Sol.

I’m resident in the Hostal Mayor, right on the corner of Sol. If you want ‘downtown’ it doesn’t get any more central. A very clean single room with en-suite at €40 is excellent value in any capital city. Sra. Luisa has presided over the hostal since time immemorial.

I’ve a full day free in Madrid on the way home, so I’ll leave C.Jesus to then and make my way through the backstreets between Sol and Pza. mayor, starting with some decent ham and Rioja in Alimentación Quiroga on Huertas for this evening.

Henry the (actual) dog is happily resident in ‘Happy Hounds’, the local dog hotel.

Hostal Mayor is directly opposite El Riojano, of which more tomorrow.

Must go. Food’s starting to arrive.

 

[Former member 49149]

Monday evening: so far, so good. 3 hours 45 from takeoff in Liverpool to unpacking in Madrid. Hard to beat that.

Immigration and health-form- checking at Madrid is seamless, as it was in Malaga. Very efficient. The Aerobús to Atocha appears unaffected by inflation at €5, thereafter it’s a brisk stroll up c.Atocha to Sol.

I’m resident in the Hostal Mayor, right on the corner of Sol. If you want ‘downtown’ it doesn’t get any more central. A very clean single room with en-suite at €40 is excellent value in any capital city. Sra. Luisa has presided over the hostal since time immemorial.

I’ve a full day free in Madrid on the way home, so I’ll leave C.Jesus to then and make my way through the backstreets between Sol and Pza. mayor, starting with some decent ham and Rioja in Alimentación Quiroga on Huertas for this evening.

Henry the (actual) dog is happily resident in ‘Happy Hounds’, the local dog hotel.

Hostal Mayor is directly opposite El Riojano, of which more tomorrow.

Must go. Food’s starting to arrive.

View attachment 121444

Buen proveche...

 

[J Willhaus]

Buen proveche...

Yum!

 

[henrythedog]

Having a free morning in Madrid I thought I’d put it to some practical use for the benefit of all. I’ve long been a fan of Chocolatería San Gines; where I’ve considered the chocolate y churros to be excellent. I recall a tip on here some time ago (early covid when the conversation turned to more secular matters than Camino) where our host Ivar opined that El Riojano (referenced yesterday) on C.Mayor was superior.

Not doubting Ivar’s recommendation, but suspecting that his tastebuds may well be impaired by a lifetime of eating Norwegian pickled herring, I thought that you, dear reader, might appreciate a head-to-head taste test.

Purely for research purposes I’ve just visited both establishments in rapid succession and confirm Ivar’s choice. El Riojano is marginally better for chocolate, but San Gines doesn’t disappoint. Tragically, El Riojano doesn’t do churros.

Time to set off for the station and work off a few calories.

I had a splendid evening yesterday, and didn’t get arrested - which I mention purely by way of completeness. T’was not always thus.

More anon.

 

[henrythedog]

My route to Chamartin on foot rather than metro (so as to maintain the pretence that this is actually a Camino for a little while longer) took a slightly circuitous route from Sol, to avoid the area just north of the Gran Via behind the old Telefonica building. If you’re in Madrid, you would be well advised to take my advice. In between the bad jokes and drivel I occasionally come up with something useful. It’s not nice. Not just ‘not tourist nice’ but really bad. Lots of on-street drug dealing and sex-work.

Back in the 80’s when I had just left the army as a Military Police officer (but in no way a gentleman, my name’s David, not Rupert) I found myself in an ‘unpretentious’ bar in this precise area; which was even less salubrious then than it is now - and it’s ‘pure mental’ now as my good Glaswegian friend Allen would say

In the course of the evening someone ill-advisedly decided to take my wallet. At the time I was built like a brick outhouse and as ugly as sin; my power to weight ratio has changed somewhat since then - largely through an increase in the denominator - and my appearance has mellowed. Deep in my monkey*-brain a couple of unaccountably still-sober neurones somehow connected and five years worth of experience helping to break-up bar-fights kicked in.

There was blood and snot everywhere, as my maternal grandmother would have said.

By the time the Guardia Civil turned up (they adopted the time-honoured practice of letting the protagonists thin out the numbers for themselves before intervening) I had the unfortunate opportunist on the floor in a wrist-lock and was kicking him in his gentleman’s parts every couple of minutes to quieten him down, whilst trying to finish my drink. None of that was really working.

Anyway, the GC thought ‘if in doubt, arrest the foreigner’, cuffed me, straight in the van and I was driven to the local comisaría. (I would have done a quick search before anyone goes in the van personally, but they had guns and it didn’t seem an appropriate time to offer advice).

When we arrived I’d removed the handcuffs myself; which prompted some discussion. They found my trusty universal handcuff key on my key ring and shortly thereafter, having the benefit of my back-story, accepted me as a kindred spirit. I was promptly de-arrested, profuse apologies offered and a bottle of wine was produced whilst we exchanged stories of ‘great arrests I have known’ through the medium of mime. (I do speak Spanish now, which would have helped).

Some time later they kindly dropped me off where they found me along with some hard-eyed suggestion that they were now looking after me and I should be welcomed, to the quizzical approval of the locals who thought I’d just be found in hospital in a few days time like everyone else the GC picked up. The rest of the evening proceeded as it had begun. I don’t think I was allowed to pay for a drink.

Still, it’s an area I’d very strongly advise avoiding both now and then. 2020’s criminality with the added drug problem and trafficked sex-workers makes 1980’s criminality look quaint and whilst the hipsters are doing their best to gentrify the area, it’s an uphill battle.

If your curiosity gets the better of you, go very early in the morning. The local ‘tradespeople’ are not early risers.

Chamartin Station’s internal layout’s changed in the last couple of years. The free lavatories have closed and a €1 super-loo has arrived. There is a new combined security station for all baggage going by RENFE but you just go straight onto the metro and Cercanias. I’ve buried my Swiss Army knife deep in my rucksack with my electronics and am practicing my ‘innocent’ face.

(Later: security an utter waste of time. Bags only. Mine not questioned but as there’s no walk-through detector it’s difficult to see the point)

And so the story of ‘one man and no dog’**moves on to Burgos.

€14 for a 2 1/2 hour train ride. Quite remarkable.

* if you’re really ex British army, that’s not the reference you think it is. If you’re not, don’t ask, it’s not important.
**old British television reference. The world as it should be. Apologies for the obscurity to the non-brits.

I know that I do go on a bit. You could probably read alternate paragraphs and still keep up.

For the purists there’ll be some walking in the general direction of Santiago shortly; but there’s no rush.

 

[henrythedog]

A ‘Like’ from Kirkie: and you a nun? Well I never …

 

[Rick M]

Your name has officially been entered on my register of "People I would most like to walk Camino with"

 

[palmah]

After two and a half years of pontificating, giving offence and generally embarrassing myself on here - finally - I’m back on the Camino in 48 hours time. I’ve done the CF three times, the Ingles, part of the Madrid and several repeat sections of which this is yet another.

Flying into and out of Madrid and by train to Burgos then back from Leon. It’s a long distance pub-crawl really. Don’t judge me.

I used the downtime to precisely evaluate and weigh all my kit, shaving off a gramme here and there. I also shed 10kg of body weight.

At the last moment I’ve ditched the frameless rucksack and paclite jacket and reverted to my Kestrel 38 and a bombproof waterproof with all the pockets in the right places. It’s actually going to be colder and wetter in Spain than in Cumbria.

A new addition to my sack (along with my Casa Ivar badge, the Union Flag and a ‘48%’ badge) is a Ukrainian flag.

I’ve dug out my ‘bits and pieces’ credencial (which is five credenciales taped together) and affixed a new blank one.

In no time at all I’ll be settled into a decent bar in Madrid.

More anon.

Quite the story teller - keep them coming! I will enjoy following your Camino

 

[J Willhaus]

Having a free morning in Madrid I thought I’d put it to some practical use for the benefit of all. I’ve long been a fan of Chocolatería San Gines; where I’ve considered the chocolate y churros to be excellent. I recall a tip on here some time ago (early covid when the conversation turned to more secular matters than Camino) where our host Ivar opined that El Riojano (referenced yesterday) on C.Mayor was superior.

Not doubting Ivar’s recommendation, but suspecting that his tastebuds may well be impaired by a lifetime of eating Norwegian pickled herring, I thought that you, dear reader, might appreciate a head-to-head taste test.

Purely for research purposes I’ve just visited both establishments in rapid succession and confirm Ivar’s choice. El Riojano is marginally better for chocolate, but San Gines doesn’t disappoint. Tragically, El Riojano doesn’t do churros.

Time to set off for the station and work off a few calories.

I had a splendid evening yesterday, and didn’t get arrested - which I mention purely by way of completeness. T’was not always thus.

More anon.

View attachment 121480

I'll say it again: Yum!

 

[peregrina2000]

In the course of the evening someone ill-advisedly decided to take my wallet.

So did you get your wallet back?

to avoid the area just north of the Gran Via behind the old Telefonica building.

I remember that area but thought it had been cleaned up with Fuencarral turned into a pedestrian street and all the other commerce. I thought all the sex workers had moved to the other side of the Gran Vía and were on Calle montera (?) near the metro stop.

Tell us where the area is, curious minds want to know! I usually am in Madrid alone and would prefer to avoid those places.

The pre-Camino buildup has been fabulous, cant wait to hear how the walking part goes.

 

[henrythedog]

Well here we are in Burgos once again. Sometimes it doesn’t help to speak Spanish - especially when your taxi drivers telling you that her brakes have gone, but it’s OK because the car’s booked in for tomorrow.

The main attraction in Burgos is the cojonudo (and there’s a cathedral I suppose)

These are basically bread, pepper and either morcilla (cojonuda) or chorizó (cojonudo) topped with a fried quail’s egg. They are a speciality of a few bars in Burgos, largely on C.San Lorenzo. Saint Lawrence, who is usually depicted holding a roasting grille, is patron saint of (amongst others) firefighters, comedians and BBQ chefs. He was roasted to death by the romans and, in the course of his death by torture, is reputed to have said ‘you can turn me over now, I’m done on that side.’

Cojonudo/a very loosely translates as ‘really good or perfect’ it’s one of very many expressions in Spanish based on ‘cojones’ (testicles). The closest parallel in colloquial English would be ‘the dog’s bollocks’. If you had cojones like Henry the (actual) dog, spent so much time keeping them clean and insisted on displaying them at any opportunity to canines and humans alike, well - you get the idea.

A good part of everyday Spanish vocabulary is based on cojones - which for someone often accused of talking complete bollocks is very useful.

In Spanish one can be totally fed-up (hasta los cojones); doing something with determination (con dos cojones); pay a fortune for something (me cuesta un cojon); not care about something (me importa tres cojones) or declare that your opinion is rather fixed and certain ‘Por cojones!’ And so on, and so forth.

Come here for the bad jokes and end up getting educated. Not really that difficult, the Spanish language.

Anyway, tonight I’m gracing the Hotel Norte y Londres with my presence, which I have many times before. Something of an anachronism, it’s a nice traditional old hotel in the centre of Burgos. €40 for a double room with bathroom. Breakfast’s available, but it’s unimpressive and I hope to be off early.

The evening’s entertainment will centre on c. San Lorenzo. Casa Pancho’s good, as is Las Herreras, and El Pez de San Lorenzo.

More anon.

 

[Esperanza]

Thank you for making me laugh first thing this morning.

 

[henrythedog]

P2K; I retained the wallet.

My grandfather, whilst not Roman Catholic, would ‘cross’ himself on leaving the house - especially when going to the pub - and recite out loud, one word at each point of the cross: “spectacles, testicles, wallet and watch” (up, down, left, right) as a reminder to have everything with him he might need. He passed the habit onto me; so (amongst other things) I always know where my wallet is.

WRT Madrid: I think the night-time economy’s oversupplied at the moment, so whilst there’s a franchise operation on C. Montera there are still plenty of representatives and freelance pharmaceutical salesmen where they used to be just north of the Gran Via around Calles Fuencarrel, Desengaño and del Barco, generally behind the old Telefonica building. If you’re not interested in them, they’re not interested in you; but the drug trade brings lots of other issues with it unfortunately.

 

[SabsP]

P2K; I retained the wallet.

My grandfather, whilst not Roman Catholic, would ‘cross’ himself on leaving the house - especially when going to the pub - and recite out loud, one word at each point of the cross: “spectacles, testicles, wallet and watch” as a reminder to have everything with him he might need. He passed the habit into me; so (amongst other things) I always know where my wallet is.

WRT Madrid: I think the night-time economy’s oversupplied at the moment, so whilst there’s a franchise operation on C. Montera there are still plenty of representatives of the night-time economy and freelance pharmaceutical salesmen where they used to be just north of the Gran Via around Calles Fuencarrel, Desengaño and del Barco, generally behind the old Telefonica building. If you’re not interested in them, they’re not interested in you; but the drug trade brings lots of other issues with it unfortunately.

This will be my preferred thread to come to for the next days. Wonderfully entertaining especially after a demanding workday!
Thank you for the laughs.

 

[palmah]

Well here we are in Burgos once again. Sometimes it doesn’t help to speak Spanish - especially when your taxi drivers telling you that her brakes have gone, but it’s OK because the car’s booked in for tomorrow.

The main attraction in Burgos is the cojonudo (and there’s a cathedral I suppose)

These are basically bread, pepper and either morcilla (cojonuda) or chorizó (cojonudo) topped with a fried quail’s egg. They are a speciality of a few bars in Burgos, largely on C.San Lorenzo. Saint Lawrence, who is usually depicted holding a roasting grille, is patron saint of (amongst others) firefighters, comedians and BBQ chefs. He was roasted to death by the romans and, in the course of his death by torture, is reputed to have said ‘you can turn me over now, I’m done on that side.’

Cojonudo/a very loosely translates as ‘really good or perfect’ it’s one of very many expressions in Spanish based on ‘cojones’ (testicles). The closest parallel in colloquial English would be ‘the dog’s bollocks’. If you had cojones like Henry the (actual) dog, spent so much time keeping them clean and insisted on displaying them at any opportunity to canines and humans alike, well - you get the idea.

A good part of everyday Spanish vocabulary is based on cojones - which for someone often accused of talking complete bollocks is very useful.

In Spanish one can be totally fed-up (hasta los cojones); doing something with determination (con dos cojones); pay a fortune for something (me cuesta un cojon); not care about something (me importa tres cojones) or declare that your opinion is rather fixed and certain ‘Por cojones!’ And so on, and so forth.

Come here for the bad jokes and end up getting educated. Not really that difficult, the Spanish language.

Anyway, tonight I’m gracing the Hotel Norte y Londres with my presence, which I have many times before. Something of an anachronism, it’s a nice traditional old hotel in the centre of Burgos. €40 for a double room with bathroom. Breakfast’s available, but it’s unimpressive and I hope to be off early.

The evening’s entertainment will centre on c. San Lorenzo. Casa Pancho’s good, as is Las Herreras, and El Pez de San Lorenzo.

More anon.

View attachment 121513

Cullen wants to know if you’ve had the Tigre in Casa Pancho. A favorite of his. We were there last night. We stayed in Hotel Norte y Londres this trip and skipped the breakfast they offered. Buen Camino!

 

[henrythedog]

Just to dispel the impression that I’m a complete philistine I have been back to take in the Cathedral. It is remarkable. The grave of El Cid and Jimena (Mrs Cid) . Fresh flowers on the grave every day. He has rather an airbrushed reputation for someone who was basically a mercenary.

Have a look for the papamoscas also (the flycatcher) a statue with an articulated mouth which moves with the clock chimes.

 

[henrythedog]

Cullen wants to know if you’ve had the Tigre in Casa Pancho. A favorite of his. We were there last night. We stayed in Hotel Norte y Londres this trip and skipped the breakfast they offered. Buen Camino!

I’m crossing the street to Pancho’s momentarily, so I’ll be sure to try it. I’m currently propping up the bar in Los Herreros.

(A few moments later: very nice - a stuffed tiger mussel washed down with una copa alboriño)

 

[palmah]

Palma’s husband here. Are you familiar with Sol y Sombras? If not try one, it’s a delicious drink.

 

[henrythedog]

Palma’s husband here. Are you familiar with Sol y Sombras? If not try one, it’s a delicious drink.

That’s a man’s drink! Usually taken as a heart-starter at breakfast time by the building trade as a prelude to a day operating unguarded heavy machinery.

What is this? A vicarious pub crawl? Contrary to the expectation I’ve set I’ve actually got some serious walking to do tomorrow. I’ll go and pay my respects to El Pez down the road for an hour or so, then call it a night!


More tomorrow.

 

[henrythedog]

To close out Tuesday (is it still only Tuesday?) una pequeña lata de anchoas de Cantabria at El Pez and - if I’ve managed to do it - un Tigre at Panchos both washed down with Albariño. And so, unsteadily, to bed.

 

[Former member 49149]

View attachment 121526
To close out Tuesday (is it still only Tuesday?) una pequeña lata de anchoas de Cantabria at El Pez and - if I’ve managed to do it - un Tigre at Panchos both washed down with Albariño. And so, unsteadily, to bed. View attachment 121527

to sleep the sleep of the just... just drunk? Mind yourself, henrythedog's owner. You have a camino to walk!!!

 

[henrythedog]

to sleep the sleep of the just... just drunk? Mind yourself, henrythedog's owner. You have a camino to walk!!!

Thanks Kirkie; I’ll give that a serious reply when I close out this thread. I’ve good cause to approach my God with fear in my heart; but in the knowledge that He must have been on my side more than I realised at the time. Acts 3:19 could have been addressed to me personally.

In the meantime; when I pause the stand-up routine; my various caminos have a greater element of penance and good intent than I would once have been able to express.

Good night all.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Stop in at Peaceable when you pass through Moratinos. There we can show you the wonders of Rueda, a white wine from Valladolid. ..Or whatever is left in the bodega after next weekend...

 

[nycwalking]

Well here we are in Burgos once again. Sometimes it doesn’t help to speak Spanish - especially when your taxi drivers telling you that her brakes have gone, but it’s OK because the car’s booked in for tomorrow.

The main attraction in Burgos is the cojonudo (and there’s a cathedral I suppose)

These are basically bread, pepper and either morcilla (cojonuda) or chorizó (cojonudo) topped with a fried quail’s egg. They are a speciality of a few bars in Burgos, largely on C.San Lorenzo. Saint Lawrence, who is usually depicted holding a roasting grille, is patron saint of (amongst others) firefighters, comedians and BBQ chefs. He was roasted to death by the romans and, in the course of his death by torture, is reputed to have said ‘you can turn me over now, I’m done on that side.’

Cojonudo/a very loosely translates as ‘really good or perfect’ it’s one of very many expressions in Spanish based on ‘cojones’ (testicles). The closest parallel in colloquial English would be ‘the dog’s bollocks’. If you had cojones like Henry the (actual) dog, spent so much time keeping them clean and insisted on displaying them at any opportunity to canines and humans alike, well - you get the idea.

A good part of everyday Spanish vocabulary is based on cojones - which for someone often accused of talking complete bollocks is very useful.

In Spanish one can be totally fed-up (hasta los cojones); doing something with determination (con dos cojones); pay a fortune for something (me cuesta un cojon); not care about something (me importa tres cojones) or declare that your opinion is rather fixed and certain ‘Por cojones!’ And so on, and so forth.

Come here for the bad jokes and end up getting educated. Not really that difficult, the Spanish language.

Anyway, tonight I’m gracing the Hotel Norte y Londres with my presence, which I have many times before. Something of an anachronism, it’s a nice traditional old hotel in the centre of Burgos. €40 for a double room with bathroom. Breakfast’s available, but it’s unimpressive and I hope to be off early.

The evening’s entertainment will centre on c. San Lorenzo. Casa Pancho’s good, as is Las Herreras, and El Pez de San Lorenzo.

More anon.

View attachment 121513

Just to dispel the impression that I’m a complete philistine I have been back to take in the Cathedral. It is remarkable. The grave of El Cid and Jimena (Mrs Cid) . Fresh flowers on the grave every day. He has rather an airbrushed reputation for someone who was basically a mercenary.

Have a look for the papamoscas also (the flycatcher) a statue with an articulated mouth which moves with the clock chimes.

Thanks for adding to my Spanish language vocabulary.

Buen camino.

I’ve placed you on watch.

 

[henrythedog]

You may sense a slight change in narrative style for the next few days, dear reader, as the temptations of the big cities recede and food becomes fuel.

Wednesday brings me, after putting my best foot forward (alternately with my second-best foot), to Castrojeriz. A pre-dawn start in Burgos, with the rain bouncing off the cobbles, gradually developed into a dry breezy day. The wind was from the east, which was welcome., I couldn’t actually see the windmills between Rabe and Hornillos as I walked by them due to low cloud (or high fog?) but I could hear them. Muy impresionante!

The night-manager had made me a coffee at dark o’clock when I set off; which was fortunate as no functioning catering showed up until Hontanas (about 30Km). Total day was 41km, which I wouldn’t like to do every day, but the next two are about half that. My schedule’s influenced by imposed flight changes and the desire to have a full day in Leon next week

It was a lovely walk when it brightened up, although the senda was muddy in places - I’ve always walked in lightweight leather boots; and I’m glad I had them on today.

I was walking in shorts because 1. I prefer it and 2. Skin dries faster than cloth. I’m pleased that I upgraded my waterproof jacket before setting off - the one I’m using is fine with just a base-layer underneath. ‘Set off cold and put some effort in’ works every time.

I’ve walked at this time of year several times before - and earlier - and I’d say there is less open than usual. Hospitaleros say that trade’s just starting to pick up and they’re expecting to be busy from Easter; but it currently still feels deflated.

I was hoping to find the al-fresco cafeteria at San Anton operating, but no such luck; so onwards to Castrojeriz. I’m staying at the Iacobus. €46 (a bit on the high side) for an acceptable private room and they do at least have dinner and breakfast available. I’ve previously stayed at the Emebed, which I couldn’t contact and doesn’t seem to be open. They must finally have found a decent accountant because the value always far exceeded the price and it couldn’t have been sustainable.

I’ve found quality food difficult in Castrojeriz previously. I’d have to exhaust all options before succumbing to a Menu Peregrino ‘mystery meat and chips’; but that may be the outcome. It’s felt like a one-horse-town for years, but I fear that something’s happened to the horse.

To close off on Burgos I finally persuaded a young camerera in an empty bar to make me a cup of tea. She thought the process hilarious and said it was like being in a school chemistry lesson.

And finally, food fans, a bacon y huevo bocodillo which the delightful folks at El Puntido in Hontanas produced - €5 with a cafe con leche. Excellent fresh bread.

 

[Former member 49149]

You may sense a slight change in narrative style for the next few days, dear reader, as the temptations of the big cities recede and food becomes fuel.

Wednesday brings me, after putting my best foot forward (alternately with my second-best foot), to Castrojeriz. A pre-dawn start in Burgos, with the rain bouncing off the cobbles, gradually developed into a dry breezy day. The wind was from the east, which was welcome., I couldn’t actually see the windmills between Rabe and Hornillos as I walked by them due to low cloud (or high fog?) but I could hear them. Muy impresionante!

The night-manager had made me a coffee at dark o’clock when I set off; which was fortunate as no functioning catering showed up until Hontanas (about 30Km). Total day was 41km, which I wouldn’t like to do every day, but the next two are about half that. My schedule’s influenced by imposed flight changes and the desire to have a full day in Leon next week

It was a lovely walk when it brightened up, although the senda was muddy in places - I’ve always walked in lightweight leather boots; and I’m glad I had them on today.

I was walking in shorts because 1. I prefer it and 2. Skin dries faster than cloth. I’m pleased that I upgraded my waterproof jacket before setting off - the one I’m using is fine with just a base-layer underneath. ‘Set off cold and put some effort in’ works every time.

I’ve walked at this time of year several times before - and earlier - and I’d say there is less open than usual. Hospitaleros say that trade’s just starting to pick up and they’re expecting to be busy from Easter; but it currently still feels deflated.

I was hoping to find the al-fresco cafeteria at San Anton operating, but no such luck; so onwards to Castrojeriz. I’m staying at the Iacobus. €46 (a bit on the high side) for an acceptable private room and they do at least have dinner and breakfast available. I’ve previously stayed at the Emebed, which I couldn’t contact and doesn’t seem to be open. They must finally have found a decent accountant because the value always far exceeded the price and it couldn’t have been sustainable.

I’ve found quality food difficult in Castrojeriz previously. I’d have to exhaust all options before succumbing to a Menu Peregrino ‘mystery meat and chips’; but that may be the outcome. It’s felt like a one-horse-town for years, but I fear that something’s happened to the horse.

To close off on Burgos I finally persuaded a young camerera in an empty bar to make me a cup of tea. She thought the process hilarious and said it was like being in a school chemistry lesson.

And finally, food fans, a bacon y huevo bocodillo which the delightful folks at El Puntido in Hontanas produced - €5 with a cafe con leche. Excellent fresh bread.

View attachment 121593

So refreshing! Thanks, henrythedog's owner! All I recall of Castroheriz is - well, yes, there is more, but on the first place on the left we met up with our constant companion Honorina from Sardina, and enjoyed our cafe con leche with her. Then soon after, there was a horizontal walk until the climb. You know the climb. Alto de something. 17 minutes it took me, without daring to stop or look back.
I learned a technique: two breaths in, two breaths out. It worked.
Really sorry to hijack your ultra-serious thread...tee hee.

 

[henrythedog]

The rain’s back for the evening and will pose a problem for those in their trail-runners tomorrow. The forecast indicates a fairly significant temperature drop - a continuation of the reports from the Napoleon route I suppose; and dinner resolved the question as to where the horse has gone.

All in all; it’s going rather well.

 

[VNwalking]

Poor horse.
Buen camino, Henry's servant.
The entertainment value of your posts is top-notch! Very much enjoying them...

 

[OzAnnie]

It’s felt like a one-horse-town for years, but I fear that something’s happened to the horse.

and dinner resolved the question as to where the horse has gone.

to the owner of the dog...
your thoughts are a riot. I had never noticed before that you had such a crazy sense of humour. Sitting alone at the pc...and really laughing out loud felt good.

Buen Camino
Annie

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Can you post a photo of Henry?

 

[henrythedog]

Off nice and early. A dry day forecast, but the temperature’s certainly dropping. One forgets that on the meseta everywhere’s already at about 800m.

It’s refreshing to drop back into the Camino routine of ‘early to bed and early to rise’ and thankfully the other residents are of a similar mind.

The weather is excellent, a bit of sun and a light wind, but nice and cool.

I’m rather fond of these splendid new shorts. I’ll explain.

They’re a ‘double short’ with a lycra (spandex?) inner; which keeps everything nice and organised; with a loose quick-dry outer which avoids me frightening those of a nervous disposition.

An added feature is that my enormous red-spotted handkerchief securely goes up one leg of the shorts and is easily accessible; my mask goes up the other.

Come to think of it, this must be yet another inherited trait. I seem to recall that my maternal grandmother kept her hankie up the leg of her directoires. (Along with a pack of capstan full-strength, a bag of mint imperials and a copy of the parish newsletter. She was a big woman.)

In medical news, a glance downwards earlier suggested that I had an additional right-kneecap; which was disconcerting. A conference with my wife, my physio and sundry other interested parties diagnosed bursitis. (Technology’s quite marvellous sometimes). I hurried to the farmacia in Fromista and arrived just before closing. The staff were delighted that I could actually speak Spanish and I had to demonstrate my ability to the entire crew, which took a while. They’re not short-handed here.

Anyway an knee support was produced and fitted on the spot, along with vitamin I and a tube of home made cream which, so far as I can make out contains a secret blend of seven herbs and spices. I was told it was ‘magico’, which is no less that I deserve. It was certainly priced accordingly; but I mustn’t quibble.

The missing remedy is a big pack of anything frozen, which is proving elusive. Given the quality of the catering hereabouts, that’s a surprise.

It’s a short day to Carrion tomorrow, and I’m in no rush - but I suspect the marathon from there to Sahagun is off. I’ll probably have to use some transport. As this thread’s on the public record the chances of anyone being stupid enough to allow this alcoholic ramble to form part of a compostella are slim, but I’ve got several of those already and I’ve moderated my sinning in recent years. Everything’s relative.

The winner of the ‘who’s putting me up tonight’ competition is the San Pedro at a fair €40.

To try and get the cuisine back up to an acceptable standard I’ve booked in at the really rather good Asador. More news later.

 

[henrythedog]

Can you post a photo of Henry?

Outside the Old Dungeon Ghyll; probably the best pub in the world. And in a shameless search for appreciation, my best friend at seven weeks (he stayed with his mother for five weeks more)

And as puppy pictures are going down well, here’s a final shot of Henry the (actual) dog when he moved in with me.

Goodnight all. x

 

[J Willhaus]

Off nice and early. A dry day forecast, but the temperature’s certainly dropping. One forgets that on the meseta everywhere’s already at about 800m.

It’s refreshing to drop back into the Camino routine of ‘early to bed and early to rise’ and thankfully the other residents are of a similar mind.

The weather is excellent, a bit of sun and a light wind, but nice and cool.

I’m rather fond of these splendid new shorts. I’ll explain.

They’re a ‘double short’ with a lycra (spandex?) inner; which keeps everything nice and organised; with a loose quick-dry outer which avoids me frightening those of a nervous disposition.

An added feature is that my enormous red-spotted handkerchief securely goes up one leg of the shorts and is easily accessible; my mask goes up the other.

Come to think of it, this must be yet another inherited trait. I seem to recall that my maternal grandmother kept her hankie up the leg of her directoires. (Along with a pack of capstan full-strength, a bag of mint imperials and a copy of the parish newsletter. She was a big woman.)

In medical news, a glance downwards earlier suggested that I had an additional right-kneecap; which was disconcerting. A conference with my wife, my physio and sundry other interested parties diagnosed bursitis. (Technology’s quite marvellous sometimes). I hurried to the farmacia in Fromista and arrived just before closing. The staff were delighted that I could actually speak Spanish and I had to demonstrate my ability to the entire crew, which took a while. They’re not short-handed here.

Anyway an knee support was produced and fitted on the spot, along with vitamin I and a tube of home made cream which, so far as I can make out contains a secret blend of seven herbs and spices. I was told it was ‘magico’, which is no less that I deserve. It was certainly priced accordingly; but I mustn’t quibble.

The missing remedy is a big pack of anything frozen, which is proving elusive. Given the quality of the catering hereabouts, that’s a surprise.

It’s a short day to Carrion tomorrow, and I’m in no rush - but I suspect the marathon from there to Sahagun is off. I’ll probably have to use some transport. As this thread’s on the public record the chances of anyone being stupid enough to allow this alcoholic ramble to form part of a compostella are slim, but I’ve got several of those already and I’ve moderated my sinning in recent years. Everything’s relative.

The winner of the ‘who’s putting me up tonight’ competition is the San Pedro at a fair €40.

To try and get the cuisine back up to an acceptable standard I’ve booked in at the really rather good Asador. More news later.

I am sure I have been to that same pharmacy and received the same "magic" cream which was for me was to be for a blister, sprained ankle, and plantar fasciitis. I could not tell that it really helped any of those three maladies. Hope you find the ice pack.

 

[Former member 49149]

Well said, @J Wilhaus! Snake oil, isn't that the name of the unguent? You are such an ireverent hoot. Mind yourself, as I already said. Hilarious content of course...

 

[Stewpot]

Hilarious

 

[J Willhaus]

Well said, @J Wilhaus! Snake oil, isn't that the name of the unguent? You are such an ireverent hoot. Mind yourself, as I already said. Hilarious content of course...

Crazy thing is that my co-worker who walked the year before me got the very same "special" cream at the very same place (it didn't work for her either) and I STILL bought it on that cold day in Fromista in 2016.

 

[SabsP]

@henrythedog be careful ...and when you use an icepack be sure to leave a cloth or textile in between ice and knee or you end up with a coldblister like I experienced with my bursitis when I fell asleep in Villar de Mazarife and said pack burnt my knee....But I digress!

Quick healing for you!

 

[henrythedog]

@J Willhaus @kirkie

Dear friends; given the well known placebo effect of believing that something will work; you could have laid-off the facts for 48 hours! I’m here rubbing in what I now know to contain arnica and devil’s claw like a frustrated bonobo. I thought it was helping until you told me it wouldn’t! Anyway the supermercado opens in five minutes, so I’m off for the first of several packs of frozen peas, being mindful of @SabineP s advice.

 

[Skybo]

I’ll sign off on here for now and resume late Monday.

If you’re looking for cultural and religious highlights or detail on how my choice of footwear is holding up, you’re in the wrong place. This is the food and beverage section.

Food and Beverage—my favourite section!

 

[SabsP]

@J Willhaus @kirkie

Dear friends; given the well known placebo effect of believing that something will work; you could have laid-off the facts for 48 hours! I’m here rubbing in what I now know to contain arnica and devil’s claw like a frustrated bonobo. I thought it was helping until you told me it wouldn’t! Anyway the supermercado opens in five minutes, so I’m off for the first of several packs of frozen peas, being mindful of @SabineP s advice.

Extra note : some albergues or hotels have in their first aid kit one of those fancy icepacks!

McDavid Cold Hot Pack Herbruikbaar Blue 1 st hier online bestellen | FARMALINE.be

McDavid Cold Hot Pack Herbruikbaar Blue 1 st voor slechts € 2,42 kopen ▶ Discrete verpakking ✓ 30 Dagen bedenktijd ✓ FARMALINE dé Online Apotheek voor België.

www.farmaline.be

Freezer needed on the premises though.

 

[ebrandt]

One more bit of advice -- I've recently developed knee issues and my physical therapist in the states told me to avoid using the ice pack for long periods behind the knee. Apparently there is a nerve back there that does not like being too cold......

Like the others, I am giggling my way through your posts! Thank you.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Dear friends; given the well known placebo effect of believing that something will work…

You do have my sympathy, having crap knees myself. But Henry senior, am I getting the facts right - you walked Burgos to Castroheriz in one day?
Loved the photos. You know the old adage about the resemblance of man and dog. Admittedly there is a colour difference, but young Henry looks like he’s anticipating his next pint.
Oh, and for the benefit of the non-Brits, I googled a pic of your favourite pub.

 

[henrythedog]

You do have my sympathy, having crap knees myself. But Henry senior, am I getting the facts right - you walked Burgos to Castroheriz in one day?
Loved the photos. You know the old adage about the resemblance of man and dog. Admittedly there is a colour difference, but young Henry looks like he’s anticipating his next pint.
Oh, and for the benefit of the non-Brits, I googled a pic of your favourite pub.
View attachment 121673

Yes, Paul - that’s correct; but it’s not a distance I’m uncomfortable with. Old age and poverty creeping up on me I suppose.

 

[henrythedog]

Well here we are again, dear reader.

Some combination of my wife’s arnica pillules, massage, a couple of bags of guisantes congelados (the closest thing to a fresh vegetable I’ve seen in 48 hours), voltorol gel a knee support and the ‘magic cream’ seems to have reduced the problem considerably for the time being. I did lay off the Ribiera last night as I thought one more addition to that potent mix might be more than a body could stand.

I even went to Mass before dinner. I’m not Roman Catholic, so it was an each-way bet. I do carry a dual-language copy of the Mass with me so at least I stand up and sit down at the right moment. (I actually assisted in Mass in O’Cebrerio many years ago, which was surprisingly affecting. Perhaps there’s hope for me yet?)

So, in no particular order that’s homeopathy, allopathy, physical therapy, a medical device, herbalism, faith healing, established religion and (these are strange times) sobriety. (You know who I’m looking at in embarrassment now, don’t you @kirkie)

I’ve set out with good intent towards Carrion (only 20k’ish) and will assess how I feel after that. There’s no discomfort, happily but something must be showing its age. It’s odd because my right knee’s the same age as my left, and my left side is usually the weaker and more injury-prone.

The next day is advertised at 40k to Sahagun, and whilst that’s not an unfamiliar distance for me in heavier going than the Camino, that might currently require 1. a more cavalier attitude than usual and risk aggravating the problem or 2.more realistically, chopping off a bit. Carrion to Calzadilla’s MAMBA country - miles and miles of bugger-all,so that’s a candidate. Calzadilla to Sahagunis village-hopping with plenty of potential rest breaks.

This is all a little frustrating as my venture onto the Camino de Madrid was scuppered by plantar fasciitis in 2019. The situation was not entirely helped by @Tincatinkers well-experienced suggestion of orujo, taken internally, as a sovereign cure. I finally got a grip of that (the PF that is) by losing a fair bit of weight.

I am determined to be on foot when passing through Moratinos on Saturday when I hope to say ‘Hello’ to Sra. Scott and associates.

Snatching victory from the jaws of defeat, the ‘Villa de Fromista’ redeemed the reputation of Spanish cuisine in fine style last night; although it would have been cheaper to sleep in the restaurante and eat in the Hostal.

Am I the only one to note that, whilst Spanish towns and cities have exceptional fruit and vegetable markets, F&V are generally absent from restaurant food?

I finished with a baked cheesecake which was sublime. My personal speciality is Nigella’s baked ‘New York’ cheesecake which has a calorie content off the scale. (I’m counting down until one of our splendid American friends disabuses me of the notion that NYC is where the best cheesecake is to be found).

10, 9 …

(Later: the temperatures dropped a couple degrees more and I’ve just seen a car pass me covered in snow. Late start today And I’m taking it easy whilst sport in my knee support and a good layer of magic cream. Please God let it not be the sobriety which helped.)

 

[C clearly]

Please God let it not be the sobriety which helped.)

 

[Former member 49149]

Well here we are again, dear reader.

Some combination of my wife’s arnica pillules, massage, a couple of bags of guisantes congelados (the closest thing to a fresh vegetable I’ve seen in 48 hours), voltorol gel a knee support and the ‘magic cream’ seems to have reduced the problem considerably for the time being. I did lay off the Ribiera last night as I thought one more addition to that potent mix might be more than a body could stand.

I even went to Mass before dinner. I’m not Roman Catholic, so it was an each-way bet. I do carry a dual-language copy of the Mass with me so at least I stand up and sit down at the right moment. (I actually assisted in Mass in O’Cebrerio many years ago, which was surprisingly affecting. Perhaps there’s hope for me yet?)

So, in no particular order that’s homeopathy, allopathy, physical therapy, a medical device, herbalism, faith healing, established religion and (these are strange times) sobriety. (You know who I’m looking at in embarrassment now, don’t you @kirkie)

I’ve set out with good intent towards Carrion (only 20k’ish) and will assess how I feel after that. There’s no discomfort, happily but something must be showing its age. It’s odd because my right knee’s the same age as my left, and my left side is usually the weaker and more injury-prone.

The next day is advertised at 40k to Sahagun, and whilst that’s not an unfamiliar distance for me in heavier going than the Camino, that might currently require 1. a more cavalier attitude than usual and risk aggravating the problem or 2.more realistically, chopping off a bit. Carrion to Calzadilla’s MAMBA country - miles and miles of bugger-all,so that’s a candidate. Calzadilla to Sahagunis village-hopping with plenty of potential rest breaks.

This is all a little frustrating as my venture onto the Camino de Madrid was scuppered by plantar fasciitis in 2019. The situation was not entirely helped by @Tincatinkers well-experienced suggestion of orujo, taken internally, as a sovereign cure. I finally got a grip of that (the PF that is) by losing a fair bit of weight.

I am determined to be on foot when passing through Moratinos on Saturday when I hope to say ‘Hello’ to Sra. Scott and associates.

Snatching victory from the jaws of defeat, the ‘Villa de Fromista’ redeemed the reputation of Spanish cuisine in fine style last night; although it would have been cheaper to sleep in the restaurante and eat in the Hostal.

Am I the only one to note that, whilst Spanish towns and cities have exceptional fruit and vegetable markets, F&V are generally absent from restaurant food?

I finished with a baked cheesecake which was sublime. My personal speciality is Nigella’s baked ‘New York’ cheesecake which has a calorie content off the scale. (I’m counting down until one of our splendid American friends disabuses me of the notion that NYC is where the best cheesecake is to be found).

10, 9 …

(Later: the temperatures dropped a couple degrees more and I’ve just seen a car pass me covered in snow. Late start today And I’m taking it easy whilst sport in my knee support and a good layer of magic cream. Please God let it not be the sobriety which helped.)



View attachment 121693

Well, another goal kick straight through the net! You do know that we each have the best angle on what ails us, regardless of any school of ology, including your PHD in Codology! How long will you test the sobriety to see if it is that, do you think? Ah, never mind. Why miss the opportunities that are staring you in the face to soak up and in all the authentic food and drink while you are there? And you are such a chicken, hedging all your bets - watch out, 'it' is catching, just like the real pestilent virus flying around. And yes, even my sceptical doctor pal and camino companion has some regard for arnica pills. Have a great day, we need your take on a camino in these days of other constraints...

 

[henrythedog]

Nothing open between Fromista and Carrion. Nothing whatsoever. I’m just leaving for the last 6k from Villalcazar.

There’s going to have to be a good deal of ‘opening up’ in the next few weeks on this section if the post-Easter increase in traffic materialises.

The silence is being ruined by a slow-driving van broadcasting advertising at full volume. It seems to have followed me all the way! Impossible to make out what it is - hopefully not some civil defence message.

 

[Former member 49149]

Incorrigible!

 

[ebrandt]

I will affirm that while it is possible to get lovely cheesecake many places in the US -- NYC is at the top of the heap!

 

[henrythedog]

The 20k to Carion de los Condes passed off peacefully enough. I usually set out with a t-shirt over my base layer (and under a substantial waterproof) at this time of year and shed the t-shirt when I warm up. Not today. I left Fromista in weak sunshine at 0830 in minus 1 and the temperature dropped a little by 1000, with a cold wind. There were snow showers and it dropped to minus 3.

Nevertheless, mustn’t grumble. A bit of snow’s preferable to a bit of rain.

The dietary rollercoaster continues with no highlights, we’re back to ‘food for fuel’ for the time being. My second-best knee looks like something from a wax museum; but without discomfort. My physio will do well out of this trip. No real prospect of onward transportation - the next bus in a westerly direction is on Tuesday and the two part-time taxi drivers don’t do weekends, so I shall persist regardless. 40k is going to need a fair bit of persisting though.

Mine hosts are messers ‘Hostel Santiago’ which is, er, ‘functional’. It’s the first day of reopening and the heating engineer will no doubt be along in a day or two. It’s Baltic.

Apart from my red jacket my clothing is all black; giving me the appearance of a peripatetic Johnny Cash tribute act. I’ve taken to standing in the sun out of the wind to soak up heat like an oversized grumpy lizard.

This evening’s ice pack of choice is a 1kg pack of mixed veg; although in this room it’s not going to thaw-out anytime soon. The closest I’m getting to dietary fibre is via my right knee.

More tomorrow.

 

[J Willhaus]

40 km is a long way on a bum knee. Maybe stop to see R. Scott in Moratinos and stay over? San Bruno is a nice albergue. My husband stayed there last fall or are you only doing the private room thing?

 

[henrythedog]

40 km is a long way on a bum knee. Maybe stop to see R. Scott in Moratinos and stay over? San Bruno is a nice albergue. My husband stayed there last fall or are you only doing the private room thing?

Thank you, yes - I’m looking at intermediate options. It’s the 17k out of Carion which is the challenge. It’s flat, which is helpful, then a succession of options start to open up. After a nice sit-down in Carion I actually felt quite capable of carrying on (most unusually, no pun intended!). The odd intermediate stop today would have helped. I’ve walked out of season many times before and never seen so little open, nothing whatsoever today.

 

[J Willhaus]

Maybe call Jacotrans to see if you can a ride part way?

 

[J Willhaus]

Trying to paste the link, but no luck. Might also be a taxi drive in Caldazilla de los Cueza?

 

[henrythedog]

Trying to paste the link, but no luck. Might also be a taxi drive in Caldazilla de los Cueza?

Many thanks, much appreciated. I’ve got that contact in C de los C; also got an unenthusiastic commitment from one local to Carrion and asked Rebekah if her team have any local contacts. One of those should come off. Failing that, referring to my earlier precis of cojones; I’ll just grow a pair and get on with it.

 

[henrythedog]

Never, ever give up hope. Bar Chanffix has just stolen the show with Cangrejos del Rio (white-clawed crayfish; endangered and rightly protected in the UK, but plentiful in Spain) in a pimentón and ajo sauce.

Photo later, the mobile signal is Dickensian.

 

[henrythedog]

I’ll recap on the current situation in Carrion.

I revisited the Bar Chanffix and - as I’m carrying my ‘bits and pieces’ credencial, I demonstrated that El Patron had stamped my credencial five years ago. That had to be displayed to the assembled crowd and I was told if I appear again in another five years I can pay the same prices as everyone else. Most of those in the room thought it was funny. That’s gone in the diary out of spite. They do, however, serve magnificent crayfish.

A small bar directly across the road is clearly owned by a Cazador, and has his photos of inferior dogs on all four walls. Cue my photo of Henry the (actual) Dog, who is a part-time professional gun-dog. I’ll attach it below, but if anyone takes exception I’m happy to confirm that the free-range organic pheasant probably died happily of old age. The crowd in this establishment were more genuinely appreciative.

I’m warming to the Hostal Santiago, regrettably that’s not reciprocated by the hotel as is evidenced by my economy-sized bag of frozen veg, which is still a functional ice-pack.

I regret that I have strayed, like a lost sheep - if sheep were regular customers of small Spanish bars - but have re-read the Mass in Spanish and English, taken ibuprofen, applied magic cream, self-massaged and spoken kindly to my right knee. I decided that I needed to step back from the precipice of sobriety for a short while. If my liver was encountering pimentón for two consecutive days without a small glass of wine (cough) it’s likely to conclude that I’ve died.

It is possible, though improbable, that Spain’s least enthusiastic taxi-driver may arrive at 0830. If he’s not here by 0900, I’m off and ‘sea que sea’ (he says, just to start introducing the use of the subjunctive.)

I, along with the entire population of Carrion, have been wearing all of my clothing, and with a forecast minus 6 by dawn tomorrow, that’s going to continue. My splendid shorts have been packed and a venerable pair of ‘Ron Hills’ produced. You have to be a Brit of a certain age to consider these acceptable in public, so I’d best just leave that there.

Finally, when putting my gloves on to come into my bedroom (!!) I noticed that I looked for where the thumb is to decide which is left or right. Regrettably I then had to look at my hands to see what side the thumb is on. Is that part of the natural aging process?

 

[henrythedog]

I don’t think I’ve ever worn a hat in bed before; other than in a tent or a trench. You know when you check in somewhere and there is a blanket in the wardrobe and you think ‘that’s ridiculous, what’s that there for?’

Well …

 

[Terrri]

Could it be because they turn the heat off at night when it's below 0C?

 

[henrythedog]

International Rescue can stand-down with my sincere thanks.

Somewhat against the run of play, things have returned to a satisfactory condition. The boiler decided to do its thing sometime overnight. I suspect some confusion with the 24-hour clock on the part of the operator.

Manuelo the reluctant taxista - who is a perfectly nice chap, but not an early riser - screeched into view like the Harry Potter night-bus only 40 minutes late, which counts as punctual hereabouts, whilst I was negotiating terms for the loan of a bicycle with a passing youth. He was crestfallen to miss the retail opportunity of his short life when Manuelo and I set off on an attempt on the Spanish land-speed record.

Second breakfast in Ledigos before a short day to Sahagun. I’ll show my face at ‘Peaceable’ en-route.

All in all, it’s going rather well.

I know this is turning into something of a stream of consciousness, with the punctuation of Dylan Thomas; but stick with me - there’ll be more culinary news later I hope.

 

[palmah]

i hope the weather warms up! A couple of days is bearable but if it persists you'll have to draw on all your mental strength. I'm with you that a bit of snow is better than rain. Wishing you sunshine! Cullen and I were surprised and disappointed by the lack of open establishments. Now that it is April, things should improve.

 

[henrythedog]

A splendid day, all things considered. Fuller and better particulars later. Surprisingly I’m sat outside the Domus Viatoris enjoying a small libation in blazing sunshine. I’m sweating profusely in my ‘man in black’ outfit; but I’m not complaining.

 

[J Willhaus]

Hooray for Manuelo! Enjoy the much shorter walk!

 

[Jacobus]

After two and a half years of pontificating, giving offence and generally embarrassing myself on here - finally - I’m back on the Camino in 48 hours time. I’ve done the CF three times, the Ingles, part of the Madrid and several repeat sections of which this is yet another.

Flying into and out of Madrid and by train to Burgos then back from Leon. It’s a long distance pub-crawl really. Don’t judge me.

I used the downtime to precisely evaluate and weigh all my kit, shaving off a gramme here and there. I also shed 10kg of body weight.

At the last moment I’ve ditched the frameless rucksack and paclite jacket and reverted to my Kestrel 38 and a bombproof waterproof with all the pockets in the right places. It’s actually going to be colder and wetter in Spain than in Cumbria.

A new addition to my sack (along with my Casa Ivar badge, the Union Flag and a ‘48%’ badge) is a Ukrainian flag.

I’ve dug out my ‘bits and pieces’ credencial (which is five credenciales taped together) and affixed a new blank one.

In no time at all I’ll be settled into a decent bar in Madrid.

More anon.

While in Madrid the Plaza Santa Ana is full of wonderful watering holes and by nightfall lit up like a Christmas tree. The additional light in muted colours allows one to navigate with eyes open instead of bouncing off walls with lids down. As for beer the bottled version of the “beer of the red chair” is my bestest. I think its Estrella but by any other name…


Also near PSA is a bar named after a winery in Villafranca del Bierzo whose wine is exquisite and the food is also typical of Bierzo. The Mencia grape used is a descendant of the Bordeux Cabernet Franc originally brought by French Immigrants in earlier times.

 

[henrythedog]

What a splendid day.

Manuelo got me to Ledigos in no time at all - that avoids a stretch where the senda runs straight as a die for about 17km. He got a decent tip, but it’ll take him a while to get the stains out of the passenger seat. It was a brisk ride.

I took my time from there to Sahagun, but made heavy weather of the last 3 or 4 KM. The change in the weather in the afternoon has been spectacular: clear blue sky and lovely sunshine now.

Much more was open on this stretch; a good pit-stop every hour or so at my slower pace.

A notable stop was in Moratinos where I had the great pleasure of calling in to see @Rebekah Scott for a much appreciated cup of tea and a splendid sello (Isiah: the lion and the lamb). Some people are obviously ‘genuine’ from a hundred yards away, and it was a privilege to be welcomed unconditionally and without appointment. Contrary to my self-burnished reputation on here I generally run on vast quantities of tea, not alcohol, and opportunities for a brew are few and far between.

Tomorrow is another day, to state the bleedin’ obvious and whilst a shorter day has not worsened my knee, I’ll be off in search of my daily bag of frozen food shortly and will maintain the rest of the battery of medical and spiritual intervention.

There’s a decent sized supermarket in the vicinity, so lots of choice for the ice-pack. For future reference beans seem to be a less aggressive vegetable than peas, but the mixed selection yesterday was excellent. What my successive hosts make of a bathroom bin full of defrosted vegetables every day, I hate to think. It’s a good job that review sites are only one-way.

Options for tomorrow are Religeos if I’m feeling soft, or Mansilla if all goes according to plan; thereafter the bright lights of Leon await, dear reader.

I feel in retrospect I was overly harsh on Hostal Santiago yesterday. The room and bathroom were commodious and very clean. The heating when it sprang into life was fine, and the non-resident staff couldn’t have been more accommodating.

Tonight’s lodging is the Domus Viatoris; an architectural abomination and fractionally out of town, but with friendly and helpful staff and an adequate room.

 

[henrythedog]

While in Madrid the Plaza Santa Ana is full of wonderful watering holes and by nightfall lit up like a Christmas tree. The additional light in muted colours allows one to navigate with eyes open instead of bouncing off walls with lids down. As for beer the bottled version of the “beer of the red chair” is my bestest. I think its Estrella but by any other name…


Also near PSA is a bar named after a winery in Villafranca del Bierzo whose wine is exquisite and the food is also typical of Bierzo. The Mencia grape used is a descendant of the Bordeux Cabernet Franc originally brought by French Immigrants in earlier times.

Thank you for the recommendation. Plaza Santa Ana’s always seemed a bit posh for me (I’m not setting a very high expectation of myself am I?) but I’ll give it another go next Thursday when I’ll be trying single-handedly to get the Madrilleno licensed-trade back on its feet.

 

[Wendykin]

Buen camino! I was there two weeks ago and in Astorga heard the bands practice and marched off for Santa Semana. May your arm heal quickly!

 

[henrythedog]

Buen camino! I was there two weeks ago and in Astorga heard the bands practice and marched off for Santa Semana. May your arm heal quickly!

I’m not renowned for hyperchondria; I’ve got enough mental debilities and disgraceful habits (according to Mrs Henry the Dog), but you’ve got me self-examining my upper limbs now.

I’ll apply your best wishes to my right knee and join you in wishing @palmah well for her injured arm.

Thank you.

 

[Former member 49149]

Thank you for the recommendation. Plaza Santa Ana’s always seemed a bit posh for me (I’m not setting a very high expectation of myself am I?) but I’ll give it another go next Thursday when I’ll be trying single-handedly to get the Madrilleno licensed-trade back on its feet.

How many times will I have to type: incorrigible? I can't do it in capitals - against the rules.

 

[Former member 49149]

What a splendid day.

Manuelo got me to Ledigos in no time at all - that avoids a stretch where the senda runs straight as a die for about 17km. He got a decent tip, but it’ll take him a while to get the stains out of the passenger seat. It was a brisk ride.

I took my time from there to Sahagun, but made heavy weather of the last 3 or 4 KM. The change in the weather in the afternoon has been spectacular: clear blue sky and lovely sunshine now.

Much more was open on this stretch; a good pit-stop every hour or so at my slower pace.

A notable stop was in Moratinos where I had the great pleasure of calling in to see @Rebekah Scott for a much appreciated cup of tea and a splendid sello (Isiah: the lion and the lamb). Some people are obviously ‘genuine’ from a hundred yards away, and it was a privilege to be welcomed unconditionally and without appointment. Contrary to my self-burnished reputation on here I generally run on vast quantities of tea, not alcohol, and opportunities for a brew are few and far between.

Tomorrow is another day, to state the bleedin’ obvious and whilst a shorter day has not worsened my knee, I’ll be off in search of my daily bag of frozen food shortly and will maintain the rest of the battery of medical and spiritual intervention.

There’s a decent sized supermarket in the vicinity, so lots of choice for the ice-pack. For future reference beans seem to be a less aggressive vegetable than peas, but the mixed selection yesterday was excellent. What my successive hosts make of a bathroom bin full of defrosted vegetables every day, I hate to think. It’s a good job that review sites are only one-way.

Options for tomorrow are Religeos if I’m feeling soft, or Mansilla if all goes according to plan; thereafter the bright lights of Leon await, dear reader.

I feel in retrospect I was overly harsh on Hostal Santiago yesterday. The room and bathroom were commodious and very clean. The heating when it sprang into life was fine, and the non-resident staff couldn’t have been more accommodating.

Tonight’s lodging is the Domus Viatoris; an architectural abomination and fractionally out of town, but with friendly and helpful staff and an adequate room.

I am dangerous with magazines - I start at the end. Sometimes also with threads, so only reading this now. You are single-handedly providing the fillip of the year for the last two years of angst and despair... thank you! (There are a few others hard on your heels so stop puffing out those cheeks!) Pass on the praise to Mrs henrythedog, she must have her part in it! Now, have you - how silly of me - you must have heard of the kind of pack that can be either frozen or microwaved. Seen head nor tail of one of them? Would save you a fortune in frozen veg. If ~I were never to walk another step, your tales are worth keeping to light up the dark winter nights... maybe!

 

[Lindsay from Scotland]

After two and a half years of pontificating, giving offence and generally embarrassing myself on here - finally - I’m back on the Camino in 48 hours time. I’ve done the CF three times, the Ingles, part of the Madrid and several repeat sections of which this is yet another.

Flying into and out of Madrid and by train to Burgos then back from Leon. It’s a long distance pub-crawl really. Don’t judge me.

I used the downtime to precisely evaluate and weigh all my kit, shaving off a gramme here and there. I also shed 10kg of body weight.

At the last moment I’ve ditched the frameless rucksack and paclite jacket and reverted to my Kestrel 38 and a bombproof waterproof with all the pockets in the right places. It’s actually going to be colder and wetter in Spain than in Cumbria.

A new addition to my sack (along with my Casa Ivar badge, the Union Flag and a ‘48%’ badge) is a Ukrainian flag.

I’ve dug out my ‘bits and pieces’ credencial (which is five credenciales taped together) and affixed a new blank one.

In no time at all I’ll be settled into a decent bar in Madrid.

More anon.

Have a great time
Good attitude
Lindsay

 

[Rebekah Scott]

thanks for the kind words and the nice little visit. Sorry you caught us on a less-than-witty morning... I was still down about a cup of tea. I shoulda packed you a few bags of Yorkshire Tea!

 

[Tessera]

I remember the Pancho in Burgos — the same, perhaps? This self-portrait was hanging inside:

 

[henrythedog]

The very one, thank you.

I remember the Pancho in Burgos — the same, perhaps? This self-portrait was hanging inside:

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Tonight’s lodging is the Domus Viatoris; an architectural abomination and fractionally out of town, but with friendly and helpful staff and an adequate room.

...and a well stocked bar if I remember correctly.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

What my successive hosts make of a bathroom bin full of defrosted vegetables every day, I hate to think. It’s a good job that review sites are only one-way.

Steer well clear of AirBnb in that case.

 

[henrythedog]

...and a well stocked bar if I remember correctly.

It was up to last night. Best give it a day or two.

 

[henrythedog]

I passed a peaceful night in Sahagun. I’ve never stayed before but recall my first time through. My first full Camino was in February to March 2015. It was quiet and wonderful, with more facilities open than right now; I was used to seeing the same 20-30 people in the course of the day; walking long days and ‘early to bed and early to rise’. I passed Sahagun on what must have been market day and felt genuinely intimidated by the crowded streets. I didn’t even stop for a drink.

It’s a pleasant enough place. Football’s on the telly and one of the locals, clearly an amateur critic, is declaiming his view of one of the teams at full volume. I’ve ticked off my considerable list of Spanish obscenities (I don’t use them, but I like to know what I’m being called) including the full set of cojones.

I changed bar to avoid the man and - Que suerte! - he’s just turned up again. I’m taking notes as my Spanish vocabulary’s increasing by the minute; but the owner’s not impressed and I can see this ending in tears. Head down Henrythedog, don’t get involved.

Up and off early with a spring in my step - or, at least, each alternate step - which saw me through Bercianos and into El Burgo Ranero before I looked for coffee. Nothing en route but a couple of albergues open in the centre.

A glorious walking day now. Cold but bright and clear.

Reliegos was quiet. The tienda open and Albergue Las Hadas. Bar Gil open in the evening reportedly - but it is Sunday. Bar Elvis looking even more decrepit than it did when it was open, years ago now.

Might as well make a day of it; so carried on to Mansilla where I’m writing this in El Jardín del Camino prior to overnighting in their Casa de los Soportales. 28km in six hours and nothing appears to have dropped off or broken, which is a bonus.

 

[Kathar1na]

carried on to Mansilla where I’m writing this in El Jardín del Camino prior to overnighting in their Casa de los Soportales

Mansilla! La Casa de los Soportales! El Jardín del Camino! The shop next to it that announces Embutidos Pan Vinos on their store front and where they put us for breakfast!!! If I had had a big enough backpack and could have carried it, I would have bought all their wares there and then ... or at least all their wares minus pan and vinos. I know where my priorities lie.

Enjoying every word of your Camino.

 

[VNwalking]

So, in no particular order that’s homeopathy, allopathy, physical therapy, a medical device, herbalism, faith healing, established religion and (these are strange times) sobriety. (You know who I’m looking at in embarrassment now, don’t you @kirkie)

The last thing you do is always the one that works.

hopefully not some civil defence message.

"Henrythedog, get back to basecamp immediately!"

 

[henrythedog]

"Henrythedog, get back to basecamp immediately!"

Mrs Henrythedog is tracking my every step by the miracle of modern technology (actually - and I’d rather you kept it to yourself, dear reader - she is tracking every movement of my iPhone; which might not always be quite the same thing).

I was also weighted on leaving the house and that will be repeated on my return. I suspect I’ll be on short rations for a while.

Some folk describe their weight-loss on Camino. For some unaccountable reason I’ve never had that problem. I suspect a slow metabolism.

 

[seashell]

The most delightful series of blog posts I’ve probably ever read - muchas gracias Henry.

 

[Dochim]

Really enjoying your posts. Re-living several experiences, I remember the market in Sahagún where we bought some delicious cherries and then picnicked in the plaza. Looking forward to our return in June. In the meantime, thanks for whetting my appetite

 

[NorthernLight]

For future reference, if you bring a zip-lock bag into a bar, they will usually put ice in it. Since you are also a fine consumer of their wares, they will do so cheerfully.

Free the vegetables!