Camino from Coimbra starting next week

[Rianne33]

I'm thinking about walking the camino portugues after finishing the camino frances and the route to Finisterre and Muxia next week. Is it recommended to start in Coimbra? I heard that signs might be missing there. And are there different variants from Coimbra or is there one route to Porto and then many different options? And of the different options from Porto, which one would you recommend and why? I'd love to get some input.

 

[dougfitz]

Once across the river, there are two options available. One along the NE bank of the river, the other through the city. The latter might require a bit more attention, but has the advantage of taking the pilgrim past three of the churches in the Baixa/São Bartolomeu area, the lower part of the city. Note, though, that if you want to visit the Se Nova and Se Velha, these will need a side visit to the area near the university, the Alta. That is a steep climb no matter which way you go.

Some Fatima pilgrims use the SW bank of the river, crossing at one of the road bridges at the northern end of the city before heading southwards. They will be going the other way to you if you do see them. I don't recall that being waymarked on the way into town on the CP route. There is also at least one other route through the town that is marked up for Fatima pilgrims, but I have not checked where it goes. It might take them past the cathedrals - it seems to come down from the Alta, the high section of the city near the university.

Once the CP leaves Coimbra going north, there is only one path that I am aware of between the towns. While there will only be one path in most towns and cities, you will inevitably deviate in places to get to your accommodation or to find somewhere someone has recommended for a meal.

I have walked both the Central route (from Porto) and the Variante Espiritual (from Valenca). They are both interesting routes, but I haven't walked any of the other three routes heading north from Porto. I am not really in a position to offer a comparison for you.

 

[jungleboy]

Is it recommended to start in Coimbra? I heard that signs might be missing there.

Personally I would not highly recommend it, as I found the section from Coimbra to Porto to be the least interesting part of the CP from Lisbon to Santiago (Tomar to Coimbra was much more pleasant for me). North of Coimbra I found it to be very suburban, with a lot of pavement walking on the roadside, and the towns to be not that interesting in general. Signage wasn't an issue IIRC.

And are there different variants from Coimbra or is there one route to Porto and then many different options?

There is just one standard route from Coimbra north to Porto. But if you stop at Albergue Moinho Garcia (recommended) about halfway between the two, the owner can tell you how to get to the coast from the albergue and then to walk along the coast to Porto, which may be nicer (I haven't done it).

And of the different options from Porto, which one would you recommend and why? I'd love to get some input.

It depends on what you are drawn to. The main options are the coastal/litoral or the central. The central is more traditional and historic and has more of a 'camino feel' as well as more interesting towns to stay in (e.g. Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valença/Tui). But if you are especially drawn to the coast, then the coastal/littoral might be a good option for you. The actual coastal route sometimes is a bit inland, while the littoral provides an alternative path at those times to stay alongside the coast, and then the two tend to meet back up on/near the coast at the end of each stage. Quite a few pilgrims choose to start on the coastal from Porto for a couple of days at least and then veer back and join the central, avoiding the first day+ on the central, which is not the best.

 

[David L]

As mentioned above, the owner of the Albergue Moinho Garcia in Pinheiro Da Bemoosta can guide you to coastal route that leads to Porto. In Albergaria A Velha, the hospitalera can guide you through another route that leads to Santa Maria de Feira (a fantastic town) and into Porto.

Either of these routes help to avoid the suburban slog to Porto, which begins around São João de Madeira.

It requires a little more adventurous spirit because it's not marked, but it seems everyone in the countryside knows the way to Santiago.

 

[Sha-Ron]

We walked from Coimbra using John Brierleys guide. We wanted a longer walk and experience in Portugal otherwise one reaches the border too quickly if one starts from Porto. We were able to taste and experience far more of the Portuguese culture. I would recommend starting in Coimbra after spending at least a morning visiting the university there etc.

 

[Phil71]

Start in Tomar if you can. It's a wonderful place

 

[Jo H]

I agree with Jungleboy & Phil71. Tomar to Coimbra is beautiful camino walking and allow time to explore both towns which have interesting significant historic sites.

 

[Rianne33]

Thank you for all your quick replies! If I have enough time, I will start in Tomar.