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I consider myself a quite experienced walker/pilgrim, but I have to say: I started in Lisbon. The first days I walked on asphalt/highways with heavy, dangerous traffic, with few albergues Used mostly hotels/hostals.. After 5 days I quit, took a train to Porto, and restarted from there. Much better. IMHO, from Lisbon it is underdeveloped and not what you would call a Camino, as most people see it.We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
This is correct. If @CaliHiker wants to meet other pilgrims, the Lisbon-Porto section of the CP during the pandemic is not going to provide much of that. IIRC, we saw 12 or so other pilgrims in 20 days between Lisbon and Porto last September, and some of those we only saw once and never met.My understanding is that the Camino south of Porto is a lot less traveled with fewer amenities.
That’s actually very good feedback for us @jungleboy. If we did “start” from Lisbon, we were already planning to skip ahead to Santarem to actually start there so I know that the first few days out of Lisbon are as @alexwalker says. But knowing there are so few people really influences me to skip on to Porto right away. @Paintboy2 I’ll update the forum users on what we see and experience if I can figure out which thread to post in.This is correct. If @CaliHiker wants to meet other pilgrims, the Lisbon-Porto section of the CP during the pandemic is not going to provide much of that. IIRC, we saw 12 or so other pilgrims in 20 days between Lisbon and Porto last September, and some of those we only saw once and never met.
On my first 5 days out of Lisbon (some places poorly marked), in May 2017 (High-season) I saw exactly 0 - Zero - pilgrims... And due to not many albergues, I skipped, by train, from Santarem to Porto.That’s actually very good feedback for us @jungleboy. If we did “start” from Lisbon, we were already planning to skip ahead to Santarem to actually start there so I know that the first few days out of Lisbon are as @alexwalker says. But knowing there are so few people really influences me to skip on to Porto right away. @Paintboy2 I’ll update the forum users on what we see and experience if I can figure out which thread to post in.
My own experience from Lisbon in 2019 was quite different from this. I enjoyed the added solitude, but met numerous other pilgrims. And before Porto it was more pilgrims than tourists.I consider myself a quite experienced walker/pilgrim, but I have to say: I started in Lisbon. The first days I walked on asphalt/highways with heavy, dangerous traffic, with few albergues Used mostly hotels/hostals.. After 5 days I quit, took a train to Porto, and restarted from there. Much better. IMHO, from Lisbon it is underdeveloped and not what you would call a Camino, as most people see it.
Read with interest as I had a very similar experience except I walked only 4 days from Lisbon. Unfortunately torrential rains, poor gear choices, overconfidence and terrible blisters did me in…took the train to Porto…sought medical attention and hobbled my way to Santiago from there.I consider myself a quite experienced walker/pilgrim, but I have to say: I started in Lisbon. The first days I walked on asphalt/highways with heavy, dangerous traffic, with few albergues Used mostly hotels/hostals.. After 5 days I quit, took a train to Porto, and restarted from there. Much better. IMHO, from Lisbon it is underdeveloped and not what you would call a Camino, as most people see it.
We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
Hi I am currently walking from Lisbon to Fatima so the same path till you get to Santarem. I'm just going to say enjoy some time in Lisbon which is as great city, though everything not open. The municipal albergues don't seem to be open and I had to miss a stage as no where to stay. I doubt if it was a great loss as the next few days were either industry or flat farmland. I can't say what it's like past Santerem on the Camino Santiago, certainly gets better on the Fatima route.We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
I think that JungleBoy knows his stuff living in Portugal. I usually almost always agree with @alexwalker but when he said:That’s actually very good feedback for us @jungleboy. If we did “start” from Lisbon, we were already planning to skip ahead to Santarem to actually start there so I know that the first few days out of Lisbon are as @alexwalker says. But knowing there are so few people really influences me to skip on to Porto right away. @Paintboy2 I’ll update the forum users on what we see and experience if I can figure out which thread to post in.
I had to really disagree. He is without a doubt a very experienced walker. He is also correct about the first few days walking out of Lisbon not being the nicest of nice days. I did enjoy walking from Lisbon. I enjoyed the solitude and I was never lacking for other Pilgrims along the way and met not as many as you meet after Porto but just as wonderful. There are also some really lovely cities to be in like Tomar and Coimbra. You can also take the variant to Fatima and easily rejoin the camino to Porto. There are less services so I would recommend having a couple of free apps on your phone to check to see what is open or closed like Buen Camino or Wise Pilgrim. The website Gronze.com can be opened on Chrome and translated and there is a wealth of information there. Call ahead as you never know what will be open or closed. When you go from Porto there are options on walking. The traditional route or the coastal to name 2. There is also the Spiritual Variant that is some of the prettiest walking anywhere. Remember when you are going it will be really hot so be prepared.I consider myself a quite experienced walker/pilgrim, but I have to say: I started in Lisbon. The first days I walked on asphalt/highways with heavy, dangerous traffic, with few albergues Used mostly hotels/hostals.. After 5 days I quit, took a train to Porto, and restarted from there. Much better. IMHO, from Lisbon it is underdeveloped and not what you would call a Camino, as most people see it.
I walked from Lisbon to Santiago in May 2017. The hike from Lisbon to Porto was through a lot of industrial area, however, once in Porto I walked along the Atlantic Seaboard, mostly on boardwalk. If I were to do it again, I would start in Porto. There were not may Pilgrims on the Lisbon to Porto section, however, the Pope had just been in Fatima, and may have had a lot of Pilgrims there. Buen Camino.We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
Couldn’t agree with Peregrina2000 more. The food and people alone are worth the ‘extra’ two weeks from Lisboa. We walked in 2015 in May and did meet quite a few pilgrims from Lisboa to Porto. If you have the time I think you would enjoy the route from Lisboa. Karen and DaytonI’ve been reading the forum for many years now, and I think I’m right when I say that the “should we start in Lisbon” question has been the one route question that produces the most strenuous disagreement.
In 2014, Mario of @santaremhostel put together a short video of some of his guests. You can see it here.
Another thread that I think is helpful. And there are many more if you search “starting in Lisbon.”
The most recent “live” thread from @jungleboy is another one that I think is essential reading — especially since so much has changed since I first walked it in 2008! The number of albergues is continuing to increase, the route has been moved more and more off-road, but the one thing that remains the same is that the food is fresh, good, and cheap, and the people are inicredibly kind and helpful. The towns of Tomar, Coimbra, and Santarem have a lot to see and visit. And if you’re into ruins — the abandoned royal estate at Quinta da Cardiga and the Roman ruins at Condeixa are just icing on the cake!
Bottom line is that there are a lot of different opinions and obviously no “right” answer.
One obvious advantage of the Caminho from Lisboa that no one has mentioned is that it is about two weeks LONGER!
And I remember that we got together near the Cathedral for a sendoff, because I was in Lisbon for a few weeks! Not to derail the thread, @karenhypes, but I remember that your Camino Association had a relationship of support for the albergue in Monesterio on the Vdlp. Any updates on how the priest and the albergue are doing?We walked in 2015 in May and did meet quite a few pilgrims from Lisboa
The Portugal People are amazing, very Friendly and accommodating.We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
I'll be one day ahead I think. Land on the 11th and start walking on the 12th. Bom caminho!behind
Thank youThe most recent “live” thread from @jungleboy is another one that I think is essential reading — especially since so much has changed since I first walked it in 2008!
And you. Our paths might cross at some point. I land on the afternoon of the 12th and start walking that day.I'll be one day ahead I think. Land on the 11th and start walking on the 12th. Bom caminho!
I walked from Porto too, @trecile, in May 2019.I'm thinking more and more that IF I do a Camino this year it will Lisbon to Santiago. Probably in September, which I imagine will be rather hot. I can deal with time alone, so long as I know that eventually I'll meet up with other pilgrims. I walked from Porto to Santiago on the Central route in 2019, and it wasn't a long enough walk.
We had 12 straight days of mid-30s+ Celsius (90+ Fahrenheit) and up to 39 (102) one day on the CP last September. That sounds awful but I didn’t mind it. The hottest time of the day in Portugal is about 4pm. We started before sunrise every morning and avoided the worst of the heat while walking.I'm thinking more and more that IF I do a Camino this year it will Lisbon to Santiago. Probably in September, which I imagine will be rather hot. I can deal with time alone, so long as I know.
I wish you God's speed and avoidance of all the truck drivers on the first days out of Lisboa who spent more time on drinking beer/whatever in pit stops than driving on the highways that I had to walk on afterwards, after Lisboa. It was crazy. I'll never walk from Lisboa again. too dangerous.I'm thinking more and more that IF I do a Camino this year it will Lisbon to Santiago. Probably in September, which I imagine will be rather hot. I can deal with time alone, so long as I know that eventually I'll meet up with other pilgrims. I walked from Porto to Santiago on the Central route in 2019, and it wasn't a long enough walk.
@jungleboy, those temps are too hot for me! I'm glad you did not mind them and I think you have "youth" on your side.We had 12 straight days of mid-30s+ Celsius (90+ Fahrenheit) and up to 39 (102) one day on the CP last September. That sounds awful but I didn’t mind it. The hottest time of the day in Portugal is about 4pm. We started before sunrise every morning and avoided the worst of the heat while walking.
I'm sorry this is late and your plans are very likely set by now. But I found Lisbon to Porto the best bit of Camino I have walked (Del Norte, Portuguese,Frances, Baztan, Francegina)
I understand the general opinion is that there is much road walking and that it is quiet. I found the arrows less frequent but it was a great walk. The first albergue at Alpriate was lovely. Then Villa France de Xira is a nice well resourced stop. Golega is a lovely little place, as was Santarem at Mario's. Tomar is beautiful, as is Coimbre. In fact I was advised to take days off in both and explore. It really is a lovely walk.
It's funny as we only met a few pilgrims but there was a chance to get to know everyone. All the albergues had beds, were good distances apart, and all were decent quality places. I loved Tomar. By the time I left Porto, it felt like the Frances route with crowds again, and I missed the less busy first section from Lisbon. I think about that walk from Lisbon to Porto many times and walk it over in my mind. But with so many more routes I will keep walking new Caminos before I return.
Regardless of where you start, the Camino Portuguese is lovely.
I will check and get back to you. Sorry for the delay. KarenAnd I remember that we got together near the Cathedral for a sendoff, because I was in Lisbon for a few weeks! Not to derail the thread, @karenhypes, but I remember that your Camino Association had a relationship of support for the albergue in Monesterio on the Vdlp. Any updates on how the priest and the albergue are doing?
Laurie, I spoke to a friend who communicates regularly with Father Miguel Angel who runs the albergue. Doing well with a few more pilgrims now. Attached is a photo of him painting the Albergue with funding from our group, Camino Pilgrims of London, Canada. We are a Chapter of the Canadian Company of Pilgrims. We continue to support his Albergue with funds and donations from any events we have. Thanks for asking. Hope all is well with you. Karen and DaytonAnd I remember that we got together near the Cathedral for a sendoff, because I was in Lisbon for a few weeks! Not to derail the thread, @karenhypes, but I remember that your Camino Association had a relationship of support for the albergue in Monesterio on the Vdlp. Any updates on how the priest and the albergue are doing?
Ich bin den Camino im September 2020 von Lissabon über Fatima und Porto bis Valenca gepilgert. Es war wunderschön, besonders von Lissabon bis Porto war der Camino das erste Mal nicht überfüllt. Einige Pilger habe ich dennoch häufiger getroffen, war aber nicht so schlimm, da es nur einige waren. Ich gehe den Camino generell immer in der Hoffnung auf möglichst wenige Menschen zu treffen!
Postscript - I did love it! Very quiet - only saw 3 other pilgrims until Porto - a German lady, Roberto from Barcelona and Phil like me from the UK. Weather was pretty good and the Portuguese are such a nice bunch of people. Nice to have the first few days relatively flat. But my don't they love cities on steep hills - the 'winner' from my perspective was Coimbra.I'm booked to walk Lisbon to Porto from June 12th so fingers crossed I enjoy it as much as you.
you should try the Via Francegina in Italy if you want to end every single day climbing the steepest hill possible. Glad you enjoyed it.Postscript - I did love it! Very quiet - only saw 3 other pilgrims until Porto - a German lady, Roberto from Barcelona and Phil like me from the UK. Weather was pretty good and the Portuguese are such a nice bunch of people. Nice to have the first few days relatively flat. But my don't they love cities on steep hills - the 'winner' from my perspective was Coimbra.
I've added it to the 'to do' list.you should try the Via Francegina in Italy if you want to end every single day climbing the steepest hill possible. Glad you enjoyed it.
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