Comparing alternate routes from León (to avoid Camino Francés)

[Pafayac]

Hi,

I will restart from León this summer, but I would like to avoid the crowded part of the Francés. Here are my options (compared to the 305,7 km by the Francés to Santiago):
- Olvidado (359,7 km): Joining La Robla (by the Salvador), then the Olvidado until Villafranca del Bierzo, reaching the Francés there.
- Invierno (363,8 km): Reaching Invierno from Ponferrada, then La Plata at Outeiro.
- Primitivo (426,2 km): Joining Grado (by the Salvador), then the Primitivo at Oviedo until Arzua, reaching the Francés there.
I would like some help for deciding among these options (or others, if any). Thanks for your advices.

 

[AZtor]

I can't say anything from personal experience, but I know one person who tried to do the Olvidado last year and didn't like it. It's very new so it has very few of they typical amenities (just check Gronze and look at accomodations for example)... it's exceedingly lonely.

 

[wisepilgrim]

I you have the time, Salvador to Primitivo. Otherwise the Invierno is enough. To do the Olvidado to Invierno from León is doable but seems a bit unnecessary.

 

[Alister M]

From Astorga you can head south for a couple of days on the Via de la Plata and then west on the Sanabres. I finished the Sanabres yesterday after walking the Via Augusta and then VDLP from Cadiz. It’s a pleasant walk.

 

[Dilbin]

Hi,

I will restart from León this summer, but I would like to avoid the crowded part of the Francés. Here are my options (compared to the 305,7 km by the Francés to Santiago):
- Olvidado (359,7 km): Joining La Robla (by the Salvador), then the Olvidado until Villafranca del Bierzo, reaching the Francés there.
- Invierno (363,8 km): Reaching Invierno from Ponferrada, then La Plata at Outeiro.
- Primitivo (426,2 km): Joining Grado (by the Salvador), then the Primitivo at Oviedo until Arzua, reaching the Francés there.
I would like some help for deciding among these options (or others, if any). Thanks for your advices.

Having walked the Salvador last August I highly recommend it and then you can either go the Primitivo or walk from Oviedo to Avilles and walk the Norte from there. There is an option on the Norte to avoid the crowds until the last 8kms or so outside Santiago which I did in 2018 although it means a bit of a stretch along roads.

 

[BobY333]

I walked the San Salvador/Primitivo combo last May on my own. I loved it so much that I brought my wife back with me - we walked León>La Robla today. Looking forward to the next several spectacular days!

I plan to post in the “Live” section again this year if you’re interested.

Buen Camino!

Bob/Paco

 

[AZtor]

I walked the San Salvador/Primitivo combo last May on my own. I loved it so much that I brought my wife back with me - we walked León>La Robla today. Looking forward to the next several spectacular days!

I plan to post in the “Live” section again this year if you’re interested.

Buen Camino!

Bob/Paco

Yup, I walked that route last year too You prob recognize the place in my profile photo.
People I met last year on the route loved it so much that they're walking it again too!

 

[Thomas1962]

There is one more alternative which is the Via Kunig which goes from Las Herrerias the Valcarce to Lugo in 88 kms. Las Herrerias is just before O Cebreiro on the Frances.
From Lugo on the Primitivo you can go to the Norte (through Ferreira of Friol and end up on the Frances just near Santiago airport.
You can see all these tracks on the interactive map on the bottom of this page. If you click exactly on a track you will see more info about this route.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Hi,

I will restart from León this summer, but I would like to avoid the crowded part of the Francés. Here are my options (compared to the 305,7 km by the Francés to Santiago):
- Olvidado (359,7 km): Joining La Robla (by the Salvador), then the Olvidado until Villafranca del Bierzo, reaching the Francés there.
- Invierno (363,8 km): Reaching Invierno from Ponferrada, then La Plata at Outeiro.
- Primitivo (426,2 km): Joining Grado (by the Salvador), then the Primitivo at Oviedo until Arzua, reaching the Francés there.
I would like some help for deciding among these options (or others, if any). Thanks for your advices.

Another possibility would be DIY South to Benavente, which is actually a traditional Camino route, just not waymarked or anything (though there is a "green" cycling route between Palanquinos and Valderas in the midst of that area) ; then head West from Benavente on the Sanabrés.

But of those three options that you give, I feel that the more sensible would be the Invierno, as the infrastructure is improving there.

 

[AZtor]

Another possibility would be DIY South to Benavente, which is actually a traditional Camino route, just not waymarked or anything (though there is a "green" cycling route between Palanquinos and Valderas in the midst of that area) ; then head West from Benavente on the Sanabrés.

But of those three options that you give, I feel that the more sensible would be the Invierno, as the infrastructure is improving there.

I've not heard of this Benavente detour, can you tell me more?

 

[peregrina2000]

I will restart from León this summer, but I would like to avoid the crowded part of the Francés.

I think that your best choices are the Invierno or the Salvador/Primitivo.

Comparisons —
Invierno has many fewer walkers, very little mountain terrain, basically a walk through small towns in rural Galicia. A fair amount of road walking, but on roads where cars are virtually non-existent. There are a few bigger places, like Quiroga and Monforte, both of which are nice places but not monumental like Lugo or Oviedo on the Primitivo. The day you cross the Miño is awesome — vineyards on both sides and gorgeous views going up and down.

Salvador/Primitivo has many more mountain days and more varied terrain. Probably less asphalt than the Invierno, though it has some of course. Oviedo is one of my favorite cities in Spain, I would take a rest day there. The Salvador has the most important pre-romanesque churches in Spain, so if you are interested in ancient architecture, a trip to the Naranco sites (a couple of kms from the center of Oviedo), and the church in Santa Cristina de Lena, are must-visits! Many more pilgrims on this route. When I walked two years ago in September, there were plenty of people, and some slight stress for lodging (particularly in Berducedo, which is a bottleneck). Because of covid (this was 2021), I booked private rooms ahead of time and had no issues. If you walk this route, I would make sure to have a reservation in either Berducedo or La Mesa (about 5 kms further on). Lots of good albergues on this route and plenty of private places too.

I know one person who tried to do the Olvidado last year and didn't like it. It's very new so it has very few of they typical amenities

I wouldn’t recommend the Olvidado to @Payfac, but not for those reasons. The Olvidado is probaby the most consistently beautiful camino I have walked. Of the approximately 18 days, at least 8 are true mountain stages. It is a “new” camino only in the sense that it has had a recent spotlight put on it by the Camino associations, the municipalities, etc. But this route is every bit as old as the others. I first walked it in 2013 or 14 and there were some arrows but GPS was (and continues to be) needed. I went back in 2019 because two mountain alternatives had been added and marked. More albergues, more markings. It is the perfect camino if you can walk longer stages and enjoy solitary caminos. And I realize that’s not everyone’s cup of tea.

The reason I would not put the Olvidado on @Payfac’s list for this year is because by joining it in La Robla (after a day on the Salvador from León), he will miss much of the beauty. Starting in Bilbao (though the first day is all asphalt) would be my preferred starting point.

The one caveat is that this camino has stages in the 30-35 range. There are ways to shorten them, and there are cab options for some of the longer ones if you are not opposed to taking a cab now and then. I wouldn’t want to do that, but that’s just me.

Good luck with this decision @Pafayac and let us know what you decide!

. I loved it so much that I brought my wife back with me - we walked León>La Robla today.

And a slight tangent to say that I vry much look forward to your posts, @BobY333. Buen camino!

 

[AZtor]

I think that your best choices are the Invierno or the Salvador/Primitivo.

Comparisons —
Invierno has many fewer walkers, very little mountain terrain, basically a walk through small towns in rural Galicia. A fair amount of road walking, but on roads where cars are virtually non-existent. There are a few bigger places, like Quiroga and Monforte, both of which are nice places but not monumental like Lugo or Oviedo on the Primitivo. The day you cross the Miño is awesome — vineyards on both sides and gorgeous views going up and down.

Salvador/Primitivo has many more mountain days and more varied terrain. Probably less asphalt than the Invierno, though it has some of course. Oviedo is one of my favorite cities in Spain, I would take a rest day there. The Salvador has the most important pre-romanesque churches in Spain, so if you are interested in ancient architecture, a trip to the Naranco sites (a couple of kms from the center of Oviedo), and the church in Santa Cristina de Lena, are must-visits! Many more pilgrims on this route. When I walked two years ago in September, there were plenty of people, and some slight stress for lodging (particularly in Berducedo, which is a bottleneck). Because of covid (this was 2021), I booked private rooms ahead of time and had no issues. If you walk this route, I would make sure to have a reservation in either Berducedo or La Mesa (about 5 kms further on). Lots of good albergues on this route and plenty of private places too.



I wouldn’t recommend the Olvidado to @Payfac, but not for those reasons. The Olvidado is probaby the most consistently beautiful camino I have walked. Of the approximately 18 days, at least 8 are true mountain stages. It is a “new” camino only in the sense that it has had a recent spotlight put on it by the Camino associations, the municipalities, etc. But this route is every bit as old as the others. I first walked it in 2013 or 14 and there were some arrows but GPS was (and continues to be) needed. I went back in 2019 because two mountain alternatives had been added and marked. More albergues, more markings. It is the perfect camino if you can walk longer stages and enjoy solitary caminos. And I realize that’s not everyone’s cup of tea.

The reason I would not put the Olvidado on @Payfac’s list for this year is because by joining it in La Robla (after a day on the Salvador from León), he will miss much of the beauty. Starting in Bilbao (though the first day is all asphalt) would be my preferred starting point.

The one caveat is that this camino has stages in the 30-35 range. There are ways to shorten them, and there are cab options for some of the longer ones if you are not opposed to taking a cab now and then. I wouldn’t want to do that, but that’s just me.

Good luck with this decision @Pafayac and let us know what you decide!


And a slight tangent to say that I vry much look forward to your posts, @BobY333. Buen camino!

How did you find the accommodations on the Olvidado? Looking at the last few legs on Gronze there seem to be few options.

 

[sebastian606]

From Astorga you can head south for a couple of days on the Via de la Plata and then west on the Sanabres. I finished the Sanabres yesterday after walking the Via Augusta and then VDLP from Cadiz. It’s a pleasant walk.

How was the Via Augusta? This may belong on a different thread. But I am interested in this route. My husband was stationed in Rota, not far from Cadiz in the 1980s.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I've not heard of this Benavente detour, can you tell me more?

It's basically directly South from León until you reach Benavente.

There are various DIY options, along small local roads, and through pueblos that are quite close to one another.

From Benavente, there is a Camino Sanabrés (East) which leads to where the main Sanabrés branches away from the VDLP.

 

[peregrina2000]

How did you find the accommodations on the Olvidado? Looking at the last few legs on Gronze there seem to be few options.

Look at Ender’s guide in Spanish (the English version hasn’t been updated to include them all). Here is a post I put up a while ago adding the updates for those who don’t speak Spanish.

A forum member just arrived in Ponferrada a couple of days ago and her final stages were Fasgar, Igüeña, Noceda, Congosto, Ponferrada. Mine from 2019 were Vegarienza, Igüeña, Cobrana (though I think this casa rural has closed), Ponferrada. Labañiego also has places to stay.

I don’t dispute that there are few options, but you don’t need a lot of options because there are so few people. Gronze shows six stages from La Magdalena to Cacabelos (or Ponferrada as most people do), and they are distances of 16, 18, 28, 18 19, 17, and then 27 (but going into Ponferrada is much much shorter). There are ways to make long and short days.

 

[Alister M]

How was the Via Augusta? This may belong on a different thread. But I am interested in this route. My husband was stationed in Rota, not far from Cadiz in the 1980s.

The Via Augusta goes through some nice cities like Jerez but the walk itself is generally flat and featureless. I did it to say I had been from south to north across Spain. There are no albergues but cheap hostel and hotel options