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Fisan trekking poles??

Andrea Mayfield

it's about the journey.....
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (May 2015)
Camino Portugues - Porto to Santiago (June 2018)
I have been looking for lightweight yet relatively inexpensive poles. The Fisan Compact Superlight Trekking Poles look interesting and I've found several positive reviews. They are 3 part poles of 7001 grade aluminium with foam handles. Collapsed length is 24in (closer to 20in broken down) with a weight of 11 oz for the pair and cost around $90 USD.

Does anyone have any experience with these or a recommendation?
Thanks so much.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
I have been looking for lightweight yet relatively inexpensive poles. The Fisan Compact Superlight Trekking Poles look interesting and I've found several positive reviews. They are 3 part poles of 7001 grade aluminium with foam handles. Collapsed length is 24in (closer to 20in broken down) with a weight of 11 oz for the pair and cost around $90 USD.

Does anyone have any experience with these or a recommendation?
Thanks so much.
Andrea -- I picked up a set of Pace Maker Flip Lock Poles - got them for about $50.00 on Amazon. They collapse down to 24 inches, they are a bit heavier than 11 oz, but so far that has not been an issue for me. They come with a variety of different rubber tips (the knobby tip is probably the best one to use, based on reviews I have read), cork handles, easy to adjust the height. To save some space in my pack, I also have wrapped 100 mph tape (duck tape) around the poles along with some heavy duty cord. I went with the Pace Makers based on reading/seeing some written reviews and YouTube, so far they work great -- best of luck to you.
 
I have been looking for lightweight yet relatively inexpensive poles. The Fisan Compact Superlight Trekking Poles look interesting and I've found several positive reviews. They are 3 part poles of 7001 grade aluminium with foam handles. Collapsed length is 24in (closer to 20in broken down) with a weight of 11 oz for the pair and cost around $90 USD.

Does anyone have any experience with these or a recommendation?
Thanks so much.
I know nothing of those poles but I'd make a couple comments.

For whatever it is worth, we own 3 sets of LEKI poles, all are the slightly higher priced Anti-Shock poles, average cost was just about $110 per set. Bought all from Amazon.com. I bought my poles first, then later my wife wanted poles, I purchased LEKI for her only because there would be "parts commonality" between the poles should we ever need replacement parts. That is the same reason my daughter uses LEKI poles, but I am not necessarily advocating that brand, it is what I am most familiar with. I will say that KOMPERDELL poles are also very nice poles. With both of those brands I know that I can get replacement parts pretty much anywhere in the world.

First off I would stay away from rubber or foam grips. They are not as comfortable in all the varied weather conditions as you might think, can become slippery, can freeze, etc. Look for CORK or CORK COMPOSITE grips.

Look for grips that have at least a slight angle to them, not straight vertical in line with the pole shaft. LEKI (my poles) claims that a 7-degree cant to the grip angle is ideal. I don't have a clue if that is true or not, but I will say, as someone with rheumatoid arthrits (diagnosed when I was 24) that at least a slight grip angle is a wonderful thing.

Look for grips with a large rounded top so you can "palm" them during decents, they give you stability.

Look for a 'quick adjust' strap that can be adjusted 'on the fly' so you will always maintain a proper grip. My poles have a 'camming' lock that flips up to loosen the strap and then snaps back down to lock the strap back into place. Some other brands have similar systems, some do NOT and are a pain in the neck to adjust. You will want the strap to be LONGER when you are walking up a long ascent, and then you will want to return it to its normal setting for reasonable flat walking.

Also, for walking on ROADS (asphalt, gravel, cobblestone, etc) you may want to consider anti-shock poles (various manufacturers use various methods) to absorb the shock of impact on the hard surfaces. A great blessing to people with wrist, arm or shoulder pain.

The TWIST style locks can be really cheap and not hold your weight, or they can be really good and when they are good they are stronger than the "FLIP" style locks. Here is one area where you pay for quality. FLIP locks are faster to use, a bit more convenient, but not as strong as the good TWIST locks. But a good FLIP lock will hold your body weight. Realize that you want your poles to be able to take your entire body weight without collapsing, they are there to help prevent falls, if they cannot take your body weight then they may actually cause you injury. My poles actually have BOTH styles. The shock absorber portion uses the TWIST lock and the other portion uses a FLIP lock.

Look for poles that are NUMBERED along the shaft. It is important that you fit your poles for walking on reasonably flat ground. You will want to lengthen them for long downhill descents. You will want to shorten them for long uphill ascents. So having some sort of numbering system on the shaft allows you to return your poles to their proper length for each type of terrain.

Here are mine, these are about 2 years old. You will notice they have rubber road tips on them, that prevents the "click click click" sound which can get annoying. Cheap rubber road caps will wear through in a few miles, look for 'vulcanized' rubber tips that slip over the carbide tip.
image_zpsd8faea9f.jpg



Here you can see the grips have a slight angle to them, according to LEKI they are canted forward 7 degrees. I never measured it, but I did try poles that had straight vertical grips and they were NOT as comfortable. There are now some on the market that have a radical cant to them, people say those are also very comfortable too.
image_zpsff4266fc.jpg



Here you can see the FLIP style lock and on one of the poles you can also see part of the numbering system that is on the shaft that allows for quick reference to length so they can be adjusted quickly for UPHILL, DOWNHILL and reaonable LEVEL terrain.
image_zps95a29771.jpg



This photo shows the TWIST LOCK mechanism, which is also where the ANTI-SHOCK system is located on my poles. This feature added a bit to the cost. While the LEKI brand uses an anti-shock shock absorber between the lower and the middle parts of the shaft, the KOMPERDELL system was (may still be) located just below the grip. Both systems work well.
image_zps174e24b9.jpg



One of my poles has an OPTIONAL camera mount added to the top. It is removed when walking. You leave this little adapter screwed into you camera's tripod hole and when you want to use the pole as a mono-pole to hold the camera steady you flip a little cap that is on the grip and you screw it into the grip. Here it is installed.
image_zpsea139d78.jpg



Here it is removed:
image_zps573ee858.jpg


FINALLY, I am NOT advocating any particular brand. Clearly I have a brand that I have a few years of experince with, but I did look at KOMPERDELL as well, it also appears to have excellent designs. I think the key is to understand that if you are spending nearly $100 for a set of pole you should be looking for proper ergonomic design features that will help you walk.

Hope this helps.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Thanks to you both for the great information and pictures. It's just what I need to help me better understand what's important -- now to shopping :)
 
Firstly Melensdad - awesome post, very well writtien and great info. As a veteran of 4 caminos (2 x VdlP) I agree with all your points.

I have nothing technical else to add except regarding the ‘one or two’ pole question.
As I have ‘dodgy’ knees I do not need poles for super stability. I tend to use them only on steep up or down slopes. I have also used a Leki pole since my first camino in 2003. One pole is fine if you do not ‘need’ the stability of two. I have to say that I’ll be updating mine in the near future to one that collapses to fit inside my pack. Mine has to be taken apart completely to fit inside (for flights) - not a drama but it means it must be carried on the side of my pack when not in use.
Cheers, Grace
 
Thanks to you both for the great information and pictures. It's just what I need to help me better understand what's important -- now to shopping :)
As far as the added cost Anti-Shock system, if you don't walk on asphalt/cobblestones/packed gravel roads or other hard surfaces or have wrist/arm/shoulder issues, you can save a bit of money and skip that feature. The anti-shock system does not help on grass, fields, soft dirt, sand, etc.

As for pole weight, clearly you don't want to buy heavier poles than necessary, but realize that most people do not "carry" their poles. Instead they actually use their poles. The majority of pole users probably have their poles in their hands, swinging them along with them, 75% of the time, possibly more. I would personally not consider my pole's weight as part of my "carrying" weight because mine would almost never be carried on my back. Others may differ.



Firstly Melensdad - awesome post, very well writtien and great info. As a veteran of 4 caminos (2 x VdlP) I agree with all your points.

I have nothing technical else to add except regarding the ‘one or two’ pole question.
As I have ‘dodgy’ knees I do not need poles for super stability. I tend to use them only on steep up or down slopes. I have also used a Leki pole since my first camino in 2003. One pole is fine if you do not ‘need’ the stability of two. I have to say that I’ll be updating mine in the near future to one that collapses to fit inside my pack. Mine has to be taken apart completely to fit inside (for flights) - not a drama but it means it must be carried on the side of my pack when not in use.
Cheers, Grace
I actually take a suitcase and pack my pack and poles inside the suitcase and check it through the luggage.

You can use a luggage forwarding service to send the empty suitcase to your destination -- or to a midpoint, with some extra stuff, if your travel includes more than a distance hike.

For example, we are leaving in May to go to London to visit my sister for a few days, then north to hike Hadrian's Wall path (84 miles) along the historic English-Scottish border, then on to Wales to visit a friend who lives there. Then back to London and then home. I will pack my backpack into a suitcase, along with additional clothing for the non-hiking portion of the trip. Its easy enough to have the suitcase shuttled to another destination while we are walking.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
I found a pair of Leki Lhasa Lite Antishock poles that seem to meet all the desired features outlined in Melensdad's post above for $99.95 :)
weight - 18oz. Thanks again for all the help on this!
 
I found a pair of Leki Lhasa Lite Antishock poles that seem to meet all the desired features outlined in Melensdad's post above for $99.95 :)
weight - 18oz. Thanks again for all the help on this!
I believe that is the exact model my wife uses.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
This is a great post, and appears to have the benefit of extensive personal experience. I have a different perspective about some things, but remember that I mainly walk in warmer temperate conditions, perhaps not the cold temperate or near Arctic conditions some people might face in training for the Camino.

First off I would stay away from rubber or foam grips.
I have used all three. If you are using the straps properly, there is no need to make extensive use of the grip, and I have not found the grip composition to be a useful discriminant between a good pole and a bad pole.

Look for grips that have at least a slight angle to them
Again, if you are using the straps properly, that will let your hand assume a more natural angle. Angled grips might be useful if you are using the grip and not the straps for support, but then you are not getting the best from your poles anyway.

Look for grips with a large rounded top so you can "palm" them during decents, they give you stability.
I suggest that you will get greater stability by adjusting the length of the pole for long descents and ascents. Besides, I have never seen a pole that where one couldn't put one's palm on the top of the grip, and paying extra for a bit of special shaping doesn't appear to make any sense to me.

Look for a 'quick adjust' strap that can be adjusted 'on the fly' so you will always maintain a proper grip. My poles have a 'camming' lock that flips up to loosen the strap and then snaps back down to lock the strap back into place. Some other brands have similar systems, some do NOT and are a pain in the neck to adjust. You will want the strap to be LONGER when you are walking up a long ascent, and then you will want to return it to its normal setting for reasonable flat walking.
There are a couple of points here. I have already suggested that you maintain a better grip by adjusting the pole length, and this applies to lengthening the straps. I don't lengthen the straps going uphill, I shorten the poles if that is necessary. I would also suggest that there are very few places, if any, on the Caminos that I have walked where this is going to be necessary.

I find the new LEKI lock the most confusing part of their current pole design. I have tried it in store, and formed the view that it is far more cumbersome to use than their previous arrangements, and the arrangements used on many other poles, for both lengthening and shortening the strap length. It might be an advantage that the strap might be more secure, and not gradually slip a little over time. This is quickly addressed by a quick pull on the straps in other poles, but I cannot see that addressing this slight inconvenience by fitting a complicated and cumbersome new locking mechanism is really a benefit.

TWIST style locks[ /QUOTE] I have had both internal expanding locks (twist locks) and external clamp locks fail, and at this stage, don't have a preference. However, an internal expanding lock does require one to be able to grip the pole shaft firmly, which those with a condition like arthritis might find difficult. A clamp lock would clearly be an advantage there.

I currently use Komperdell (unsprung), Leki (unsprung) and Black Diamond (sprung) poles, and have used MacPac, Fizan and Quechua, as well as some house brands. I still have my original Leki, an unsprung pole with an internal expanding lock, plastic handles and a buckle adjustment for the strap. They have survived for over 15 years, albeit with less regular use. There is not much than can go wrong with a simple, basic pole like this.

Every sprung pole I have used has eventually had the spring collapse, when generally the pole itself needs to be replaced. A non-name pole I bought in Triacastella lasted two days or maybe 40km, an earlier Komperdell lasted about four years or some 2500+ km, with the others between those extremes.
 
This is a great post, and appears to have the benefit of extensive personal experience. I have a different perspective about some things, but remember that I mainly walk in warmer temperate conditions, perhaps not the cold temperate or near Arctic conditions some people might face in training for the Camino.
And I have not yet walked the Camino, but I've used poles in winter and summer and was just making general statements about design and material.


dougfitz said:
I have used all three. If you are using the straps properly, there is no need to make extensive use of the grip, and I have not found the grip composition to be a useful discriminant between a good pole and a bad pole.

Again, if you are using the straps properly, that will let your hand assume a more natural angle. Angled grips might be useful if you are using the grip and not the straps for support, but then you are not getting the best from your poles anyway.
True, proper use of straps certainly does come into play, but again, I was talking from the standpoint of a sufferer of several decades of rheumatoid arthritis. From my experince there is a clear advantage in comfort in the shape of the grip. Further, if you look at my avatar photo, that is my snowcat pictured, it is cold where I live in the winter, having a grip that can actually freeze is not a good thing. So from my experience, grip composition can make a difference, rubber and foam can freeze and be very uncomfortable in the winter, some types of rubber can be very slippery whe wet from rain. But again, I was simply pointing out some general differences.


dougfitz said:
I suggest that you will get greater stability by adjusting the length of the pole for long descents and ascents. Besides, I have never seen a pole that where one couldn't put one's palm on the top of the grip, and paying extra for a bit of special shaping doesn't appear to make any sense to me.
No arguement, and total agreement. I also suggested that adjusting the poles was appropriate. But I don't think I suggested paying "extra" for the shape of the grip from any company, nor do I think I ever implied that one should. I simply suggest a contoured top so that it was "palmable" for decents. Some of the cheap discount store grips I have tried have very small top surfaces and would be uncomfortable for steeper decents.


dougfitz said:
There are a couple of points here. I have already suggested that you maintain a better grip by adjusting the pole length, and this applies to lengthening the straps. I don't lengthen the straps going uphill, I shorten the poles if that is necessary. I would also suggest that there are very few places, if any, on the Caminos that I have walked where this is going to be necessary.
I cannot speak to the specifics of the Caminos, but I will adjust BOTH the strap length and the pole length to get the most effective use of the pole.


dougfitz said:
I find the new LEKI lock the most confusing part of their current pole design. I have tried it in store, and formed the view that it is far more cumbersome to use than their previous arrangements, and the arrangements used on many other poles, for both lengthening and shortening the strap length. It might be an advantage that the strap might be more secure, and not gradually slip a little over time. This is quickly addressed by a quick pull on the straps in other poles, but I cannot see that addressing this slight inconvenience by fitting a complicated and cumbersome new locking mechanism is really a benefit.
No argument with this, I guess I am used to the simple cam lock on the strap of the LEKI, I find it simple and fast to use, but I didn't suggest it was the best, I simply suggested that any design that allowed for "on the fly" adjustment was good.


My post was primarily about LEKI because that is what I own, but I thought I took reasonable pains to suggest it was just one of the brands out there, and others were good too. I hope it was not misunderstood as an quasi-advertisment for them, if there was any misunderstanding about that I apologize.

I suppose the terrain of the trails and topography of where I hike may be somewhat different than the Camino, but I also suspect that people who buy poles for the Camino might end up liking them so much that they continue to use them on future hikes. There are proper ways to use poles, that includes how to grip them, swing them, how to use the strap for that swing, etc. But I suspect that you and I could probably write a few posts on just those techniques.
 
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...If you are using the straps properly, there is no need to make extensive use of the grip, ...
You have both provided wonderfully detailed information in your posts, but I am left with a query regarding the use of the poles and of the grips in particular. I had understood that poles were used to help distribute body weight as one is walking, so that one's weight is not totally on knees, hips, and other joints. How is this done if you do not grip the grip? (keep in mind, please, that I am a total novice at using poles...)
 
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You have both provided wonderfully detailed information in your posts, but I am left with a query regarding the use of the poles and of the grips in particular. I had understood that poles were used to help distribute body weight as one is walking, so that one's weight is not totally on knees, hips, and other joints. How is this done if you do not grip the grip? (keep in mind, please, that I am a total novice at using poles...)
Well you do grip the grip, but not tight like you'd hold a baseball bat. On flat ground you sort of flick/swing the poles. On inclines you will grip them and use the (shortened) pole to hep pull you up the hill. On declines you will typically palm the top of the pole (which is why I like well rounded tops) while gripping the pole around the top surface. Under adverse/rocky/wet ground you will hold the pole more securely.
 
Well you do grip the grip, but not tight like you'd hold a baseball bat. On flat ground you sort of flick/swing the poles. On inclines you will grip them and use the (shortened) pole to hep pull you up the hill. On declines you will typically palm the top of the pole (which is why I like well rounded tops) while gripping the pole around the top surface. Under adverse/rocky/wet ground you will hold the pole more securely.
Well, the common English meaning for 'grip' is to hold or grasp tightly, and if you are doing that, IMO you are not using the handle and strap combination effectively.

To answer @C clearly's earlier question more completely, the wrist strap is the linking mechanism between your arm and the pole, or should be! Worn and adjusted properly, the wrist strap will press on the top of the end of the forearm where the wrist and forearm join. The force will be transferred along the wrist strap to the top of the pole, and from there to the ground. The wrist strap and pole are effectively twisting your arm over and extending the end of your forearm to where the tip of the pole makes contact with the ground - clever, isn't it. None of this needs to involve any pressure generated by the hand gripping the handle - it can be held loosely in all conditions and the tip guided into position by gentle adjustments if that is needed.

As a final point, I prefer to lengthen the poles on a descent, which has two distinct advantages over the alternative described by @Melensdad:
  • it retains the point at which the pressure is generated at the end of the forearm, which appears to me to be a far stronger combination than having the force transferred through the smaller bones of the hand and wrist.
  • I find it more important to control the placement of the tip when going downhill, and my experience is that this is far easier with my hand held loosely around the length of the handle than with just the palm of my hand gripping the top of the pole.
 
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Well, the common English meaning for 'grip' is to hold or grasp tightly, and if you are doing that, IMO you are not using the handle and strap combination effectively....
Well I'm also an olympic style fencing coach and we grip saber weapons but we grip them lightly with 2 fingers and a thumb and use the remaining 2 fingers to control motion. We don't grip it like a baseball bat. We don't grip it like a golf club. Nor do we grasp it tightly.

Same with hiking/trekking poles. We grasp it only tight enough to control its movement. Now that said I do agree with your description on the use of the strap. So perhaps my description was somewhat less than eloquent and yours is more so. I believe we are trying to convey the same message, me just not as clearly.
 
@Melensdad, I think I understand your intent. So long as people understand that they only have to hold the handles loosely if they are using the straps correctly, and not have to grasp them firmly, I really don't mind if you wish to use the verb 'grip' outside of its common English usage - to seize and hold firmly. Maybe I am the only one being confused by that:(.
 

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