Gites between le puy and st jean

[mark macfarlane]

Hello all, I walked from St Jean to Santiago in 2013 in Feb and I had no problems at all. However I am going from Le Puy on the 24th Jan and I am unsure just how viable this is whilst finding a gite every night within a reasonable walking distance per day.

Do any of you know if there is anywhere to get a list of gites and the dates that they open as you would get on the st jean route? I will get hotels where needed but it would be nice to know just how viable the route is in Jan/feb gite wise.

 

[Dave]

Mark: On the Facebook group "Way of St. James - Via Podiensis," the admin Robert Forrester has compiled a really handy single-page sheet listing gites along the way. There's a column focused on when each is open.

The website supporting the Miam Miam Dodo guide (linked) also has info on select gites included in the guide. Even better, of course, would be to get your hands on the book, which is invaluable on the route. It's possible to purchase it in Le Puy, if you can't get it sooner.

 

[mark macfarlane]

Thank you so much! I have been asking people on so many groups and nobody has been able to help but this group looks ideal! I just applied to join the group.

 

[Dave]

Keep in mind that food may be more challenging at times than beds. Many of the groceries and bakeries along the way are seasonal; those that stay open year-round may pare back their hours in the winter. MMDD includes opening hours for nearly all groceries and restaurants along the way and updates annually.

Be prepared for a very cold and likely snowy first week!

 

[mark macfarlane]

Keep in mind that food may be more challenging at times than beds. Many of the groceries and bakeries along the way are seasonal; those that stay open year-round may pare back their hours in the winter. MMDD includes opening hours for nearly all groceries and restaurants along the way and updates annually.

Be prepared for a very cold and likely snowy first week!

The snow is my comfort zone after the last one but the food issue is a concern. I am packing a mini gas stove and basic utensils and will plan way in advance! I can only hope for the best and make sure I have emergency rations.

 

[SYates]

The Miam DoDo guide is your friend there! It also helps if you know some French to be able to call ahead and make sure that things are open. Buen Camino, SY

 

[Kitsambler]

... I am going from Le Puy on the 24th Jan ...

The first ten days will be through mountain plateau at over 1000m, through snow that may be nearly 1m, with no other walkers. Have you carefully thought this through? I don't think it's recommended to begin from Le Puy before April; the thought of January just boggles my mind.

 

[mspath]

It is even very difficult to drive there during the winter months! Conques is generally snowbound and frigid then. Best wait for springtime !

 

[MichaelB10398]

I join with others on concern about the viability to begin from Le Puy so early in the year. I have not heard of someone doing that, but I could easily not be aware of those who do. Please confirm the viability of such a Camino so early in the year and then be prepared for such cold weather and snow.

I know it is possible, but one must have experience and be prepared. I grew up in a Alaska. As a young man I did some winter hiking and camping in lower than 36 degrees below zero, but I was taught and trained for it.

It would be a remarkably beautiful trail in the winter. Bon Chemin.

 

[mark macfarlane]

Ha ha you people are convincing me to do it even more so now. When I did the St Jean route with virtually no people and over a metre of snow the tranqullity was what made the trip for me and I loved it. However I am 37 years old, ex army and I am an ultra marathon runner always looking to push my limits so I perhaps have a different motivation to the average pilgrim.

I have no concerns over the terrain or weather but I really do have to plan very carefully and do lots of research regarding which places I aim to hit each day. I am happy to stay in hotels if that is the way things go but that list of which gites are open on which months will really help if I can find it. I really need some advice from one of the few people that may have done this route before in winter but so far I have found none.

I am grateful for any practical advice as I know this 1000 miles (or indeed 1350 miles if I make it to Lisbon) will not be easy regardless of my fitness levels.

 

[mark macfarlane]

My 2013 guide book says it is viable but things will have changed over 2 years. My question of viability was one of places to stay more than anything else. If my book showed many gites open all year round there surely must have been others that have done the walk in winter I am just racking my brain regarding where to find them?

BTW it was the coldest winter in several decades last time I did it so I would doubt it would get anywhere near that cold this year with it being one of the warmest winters for decades. There is still no snow on Roncavalles this year and I cannot find anywhere on the route with snow at the moment so I think it might be a very light snowfall year if at all.

I have no aversion to just turning up and taking on what comes and at worst I just get caminoways to plan my route and accommodation for me. I may look into that now for the first leg or 2.

 

[SYates]

... there surely must have been others that have done the walk in winter I am just racking my brain regarding where to find them? ...

There are, as I was walking the Le Puy route I heard hospitaleros talking about them. To find them, now that is another matter. Have you tried contacting the French pilgrims association? Another way would be to contact places that are open all year round, like the monastery in Concques, and ask them. Bon Chemin, SY

 

[AlwynWellington]

It also helps if you know some French to be able to call ahead

Mark, I do not have your fitness level, training or experience. Accordingly I intend starting from Le Puy in early April, with Miam Miam Dodo as my bible.

Regrettably, despite five years of secondary school French, I know no conversational language and my ear/brain cannot process quickly enough.

So, Sy, a few months ago I consulted KiwiNomad06 as she lives just up the road, relatively speaking. She has walked that way, twice.

On the point of language and booking ahead she made this suggestion. After arrival at a (pre-booked) gite work out your intention for the next day and have your host do the talking while you point to your preferences. They may even use their own phone.

 

[SYates]

Or team up with a bilingual pilgrim, buying him/her the occasional pastis as a reward. Both methods work fine ;-) Buen Chemin, SY

 

[AlwynWellington]

Or team up with a bilingual pilgrim, buying him/her the occasional pastis as a reward.

Very inventive. Thank you.

 

[SYates]

I was frequently the bilingual pilgrim and earned myself a few pastis that way But if you are more thrifty, draw up/get somebody to write it down for you once, a reservation request in French on a laminated piece of paper showing to said host that asks:

Can you please reserve a bed/bed and breakfast/Bed and demi-pension for me in {pronounce clearly or point to your next destination in your Miam DoDo here}? Thank you ever so much and may Santiago bless you!

Worked for a lot of monolinguals I met on the way and, sadly, reduced my Pastis earnings

Buen Chemin, SY

 

[SusanReneGr65]

Hi Mark,
October 2015, we walked Le Puy to Conques, to Figeac then the Rocamadour variant to Cahors, then went south towards Cordes-sur-Ciel.
We were told repeatedly that we were one of the last through and many of the places were open only for us because we had made reservations long in advance.
I understand what you're saying about the solitude of a January walk, and you can find that solitude in October with no snow and some glorious fall days.
Rene did prepare a document with lodging, epiceries, boulangeries and restaurants open. You can get it here with the link at the bottom of the page:
http://renesusan2015.blogspot.ca/2015/10/preparation-food.html
Have a great trip!
Susan and Rene.