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Serious training. It really does a bunch for me to commit to a goal and go for it, especially when physical exercise is required. My day to day job is very stressful and the training helps relieve the stress. The days on the camino... wake up, walk, find breakfast, walk, find lunch, walk, find where I'm going to stay, do laundry, eat, etc, are a great gift. That's why I go back.Looks like a good plan Happy training!
Damien
I walked Oviedo-Lugo in 7 days - each day typically 6-8 hours of walking and some 1,000 metres up and down
You're planning to walk that in 5.5 days (the last 100km is pretty straightforward) so will need 8-10 hours of walking and over 1,250 metres up and down each day - tough but do-able
Research has shown that only two things work for dieting -- a food log and a support group. If trekking is similar, you have a plan, and the Forum seems to be an effective support group for you. Success seems quite likely!!I think I can and already feel inspired.
From recent memory, there are 2 buses/day from Muxia, leaving at around 06.45 and 14.30.Good point that Beatrice made about public transportation back to Santiago from Muxia. There is at least one bus a day, and I think it is in the early morning, so you would have most of a day in Santiago if that matters.
From memory, it is at about 6am....or thereabouts.Good point that Beatrice made about public transportation back to Santiago from Muxia. There is at least one bus a day, and I think it is in the early morning, so you would have most of a day in Santiago if that matters. Last year when I was there, there was a bus strike, so four of us got a taxi and it was very reasonable and very fast. I think about 15 each.
The old school house in Vilaserio has always been a "red badge of courage" for me. I once slept on concrete. I also had a mattress on another occasion. That part of the camino is "gametime" for me so I won't make plans yet, but now I know other alternatives.Looking at your itinerary reminded me that there is a very very nice relatively new albergue in Vilaserio. There is a municipal, which is in the old school on the way out of town (in bad shape, unless it has gotten some TLC recently), and two privates. I have stayed several times in O Rueiro, which is comfortable, new building, has washing machine. But last year I stayed in the recently opened Casa Vella, a beautiful old stone house turned into albergue with a lot of love. I spent some time with the daughter who helped to get it up and running for her 70-something mom. She told me it had been a totally rejuvenating experience -- from boredom in small town Galicia to a new lease on life opening her many hundreds year old family home to peregrinos. Very comfortable and a lot of charm. Highly recommended. Buen camino, Laurie
p.s. I had the evening meal there, and though it was fine for me, a male peregrino was left hungry. O Rueiro has a bar-restaurant, so maybe the best thing is to split your loyalty and sleep in Casa Vella and eat in O Rueiro.
when I was in castroverde in 2016, everyone had the same idea to have a shorter day before lugo and the albergue was full to the brim. they didn't accept any extra pilgrims. some got lucky and slept in pension cortes off the central square, some had to take a taxi back to cádabo (which was almost empty). depending on the situation, it may be wise to reserve the pension.
Pensión Residencia Cortés
Rúa da Feira, 15, 27120 Castroverde, Lugo, Španija
2MHF+94 Castroverde, Španija
+34 982 31 21 66
I second laurie's proposal of casa verde albergue in vilaserio. wonderful! although some of my most beloved evening memories are from the municipal.
As I read this I am in Buiza, alone in the municipal. Tough, long first day, flat. Buiza, is um, “interesting”. When I arrived at 4:40, after having walked 44km, I called the hospitalera and her first reaction to me was “no don’t stay here, keep walking!” I was like “that’s impossible, I’ve already walked 44k!” She came over and gave me the key. Dead bugs all over the place, and smelled of a decontamination. Blood spots on the floor. I checked the log book and 3 or four people have stayed here over the last week and didn’t indicate a problem so I decided to “risk it” but having the pick of the litter I chose the top bunk.
There is no food here. None. Leftover food in the pantry but vinegar without oil / pasta without sauce. I ended up eating the bread I had, thank god, dipped in chicken broth for dinner. Breakfast will be the last of my fruit.
Do Not Stay Here unless you bring your own supplies for a real meal. Also, there is NO Real Bar so can’t even get a beer. Guides I had read indicated otherwise, otherwise I would have been prepared.
As far as the whole finding love thing that is not why I am here, but would be a welcome side effect.
Laurie / team - are there any other locations I’m staying where I have to make sure I am totally self sufficient?
Excited about the trip, frustrated by Buiza. I should have known when Beatrice said it was “ok”...
Ok - I might have to do that next time. I have a reso at El Reundo and too late to cancel, though I can eat the cost if the alternative is “spectacular”. I have to admit the idea of a private room above a Restaurant sounds real good right now. What’s special about the place, is it like a Guemes thing (which had a good experience and a fantastic infrastructure)...?I see you are online now, so I'll make this short. You have put Campomanes in as your stage for tomorrow. I would highly recommend the donativo albergue in Bendueños, a km or two off camino but a SPECTACULAR albergue, run by Sandra in the village priest´s house.
As I read this I am in Buiza, alone in the municipal. Tough, long first day, flat. Buiza, is um, “interesting”. When I arrived at 4:40, after having walked 44km, I called the hospitalera and her first reaction to me was “no don’t stay here, keep walking!” I was like “that’s impossible, I’ve already walked 44k!” She came over and gave me the key. Dead bugs all over the place, and smelled of a decontamination. Blood spots on the floor. I checked the log book and 3 or four people have stayed here over the last week and didn’t indicate a problem so I decided to “risk it” but having the pick of the litter I chose the top bunk.
There is no food here. None. Leftover food in the pantry but vinegar without oil / pasta without sauce. I ended up eating the bread I had, thank god, dipped in chicken broth for dinner. Breakfast will be the last of my fruit.
Do Not Stay Here unless you bring your own supplies for a real meal. Also, there is NO Real Bar so can’t even get a beer. Guides I had read indicated otherwise, otherwise I would have been prepared.
As far as the whole finding love thing that is not why I am here, but would be a welcome side effect.
Laurie / team - are there any other locations I’m staying where I have to make sure I am totally self sufficient?
Excited about the trip, frustrated by Buiza. I should have known when Beatrice said it was “ok”...
Done both Muxia and Finn.A few more comments about the rest of your itinerary, but first a hearty buen camino!
Stopping in Bendueños rather than Campomanes will put you in an albergue rather than in a pensión in Campomanes. I don´t know if you reserved a place in Campomanes, I think there is only one pensión left but I could be wrong. But Bendueños is about 5 or so from Campomanes, so that will make your day to Oviedo a few kms longer.
Primitivo stages
Cornellana -- town with all services
Campiello -- small village with two private albergues, a couple of stores
La Mesa -- I don't think there is a store of any kind, but I also think the people running the private albergue do meals. That albergue is new and has gotten good reviews.
Fonsagrada -- plenty of places to eat, shop, etc. EAT PULPO here!
Castroverde -- municipal albergue and private pensión. I just saw somewhere that someone recently arrived and found the albergue and pensión both full, so you might want to call and reserve the pensión. I can get name and phone number if you like.
San Román de Retorta -- this is a place that used to be a livestock market, out in the middle of nowhere more or less. There is a bar-store a km or two earlier, so you can bring stuff up. The municipal albergue is tiny and delightful, the private albergue gets mixed reviews. If you are still standing, I personally think it is far preferable to stay at one of two albergues in Ponte Ferreira. One is an old stone house, lots of charm, serves vegetarian (vegan maybe) meals. The other is A Nave, a newer place in an old metal shed. Kind of a post-modern, hip industrial feel if you know what I mean. Owners serve paella every night. Both places are fabulous.
And since I am scrutinizing your itinerary, I´ll just be nosy and ask -- have you ever walked to Muxia instead of Finisterre? Same number of days, Vilaserio - Dumbría - Muxia, but for many of us, a much nicer vibe. Spectacular setting, less touristy than Finisterre.
Buen camino, Damien
Ok - I might have to do that next time. I have a reso at El Reundo and too late to cancel, though I can eat the cost if the alternative is “spectacular”. I have to admit the idea of a private room above a Restaurant sounds real good right now. What’s special about the place, is it like a Guemes thing (which had a good experience and a fantastic infrastructure)...?
Ok - I might have to do that next time. I have a reso at El Reundo and too late to cancel, though I can eat the cost if the alternative is “spectacular”. I have to admit the idea of a private room above a Restaurant sounds real good right now. What’s special about the place, is it like a Guemes thing (which had a good experience and a fantastic infrastructure)...?
Damien,
Now that I am thinking about your stage tomorrow, I think that Buiza to Campomanes must be the most beautiful single stage of any camino anywhere. You get all the mountains from Buiza to the Puerto de Pajares, and then the gorgeous green tunnels up and down to San miguel and then on to Herías and Campomanes. Hope it was a good day for you. I have walked the Salvador in both the spring and fall, but never in full summer, let us know how it went for you.
Omg- I should have done the same thing! Should have stuck to the road because that part is insane if you’ve already walked 26k with tons of vertical. I was seriously thinking you must be superwoman to call it easy. I ended up doing San Miguel and Santa Maria. Bypassed Pajares.Looks familiar (so my itineraries are hardcore) ;-)
And doable indeed! I didn't find it hard.
I didn't do the rocky downhill to Campomanes for 2 reason it was raining cats and dogs with thunder (from Pajares) and I couldn't get a gate open so I sticked to the road. It was quite boring walk so if the weather is fine take the rocky downhill if the legs are still fresh. I stayed at the pensíon in Campomanes they were kind enough to machine wash my clothes and dry them over night as I was wet into the bones.
I would recommend to walk to Cee or Corcubión as peregrina2000 says. I stayed in Cee on my walk to Fisterra. If you have been to Fisterra already I do recommend visiting Muxía, lovely town but a little bit harder to get a bus from there, I walked back to SdC instead but that would not fit into your itinerary.
Where are you now?New plan. No plan. In SDC sept. 14.
I didn't say easy, just "not hard" ;-) Well I'm quite bad ass when it come to walking. I think my body is made for waking and having a high tolerance for pain and walking without food makes it easierOmg- I should have done the same thing! Should have stuck to the road because that part is insane if you’ve already walked 26k with tons of vertical. I was seriously thinking you must be superwoman to call it easy. I ended up doing San Miguel and Santa Maria. Bypassed Pajares.
No no no. You are good. I was trying to do crazy stuff... San Salvador is fine... I did it no problem in 4 days before... it’s just crazy hot right now and I tried to cram it into three days.no plan sounds like a good plan.
Just read what you wrote above for my BF and he thinks I am insane attempting this, I am beginning to wonder too even if I AM doing it in 5 not 3 days. Maybe I will take your advise and do the road, will I easily know what you are referring to when I get to the spot ?
Also, not to be a party pooper but someone just wrote in my post yesterday that the Primitivo is harder :O
TC out there and keep posting
I’m in Oviedo. Gonna do a standard Camino Primitivo... I bailed to the train today about 20km in because I wanted to reset and my trekking pole snapped in half. The Camino was telling me... “don’t risk injury without your poles. Go to Oviedo and enjoy the afternoon.” I’m outside an “ecolaundry” waiting for clothes.Where are you now?
I didn't say easy, just "not hard" ;-) Well I'm quite bad ass when it come to walking. I think my body is made for waking and having a high tolerance for pain and walking without food makes it easier
Different schools of thought on that one. Mine are GTX, others say that once they are soaked through they are harder to dry out. Not sure it really matters.Having to do a last minute shoe swap would you say GTX is a must? was planning to use non GTX but as I am changing anyways...
I’m in Oviedo. Gonna do a standard Camino Primitivo... I bailed to the train today about 20km in because I wanted to reset and my trekking pole snapped in half. The Camino was telling me... “don’t risk injury without your poles. Go to Oviedo and enjoy the afternoon.” I’m outside an “ecolaundry” waiting for clothes.
I told my Facebook friends how I copied your itinerary and that I should have known better because you are probably 5’11”, 140 lbs. with legs that go up to your armpits. On the JMT I met a Scottish girl like that and she kicked my a**.
View attachment 46056Day 3 - Espina to Campiello- Nice restful walk. Ended up staying at Casa Herminia which was very clean, had a washer and dryer, and had a complete store and a relatively good Pilgrim’s menu.
Day 4 - Campiello to Berducedo via Hospital Route - walking in the mountains in the rain is always a challenge. Didn’t get to enjoy many views but made relatively good time over the 28.5km my gps recorded. Staying at Casa Marques in a private room that shares 2 bathrooms with 6 other private rooms. The private room has character but the bathroom / shower was nice. They are doing my laundry for only 2 Euro. The alburgue dorm has been reported as “its a bed” with a mas or menos type waving of the hand.
Attached is the one picture I captured on the Hospital Route when the clouds briefly broke.
No life whatsoever.Did you see any life in Montefurado?
What about that beautiful Spanish lady?No life whatsoever.
What about that beautiful Spanish lady?
How boringLook at this thread https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ng-to-fall-in-love-on-the-camino.37177/page-2
On Tuesday, Damien posted:
Yah I’m done with the play by play. You guys will just have to wait for the recap...
Just pure hard core camino posts from now on.
I did it in Teva Tirra sandals so I say no GTXThanks damien, it is good to hear that it is possible provided I do not have a melt down and decide to go for 3 days
Also assuming that being 5'9" with long legs will still give me an edge.
Having to do a last minute shoe swap would you say GTX is a must? was planning to use non GTX but as I am changing anyways...
No just 5’57” 140 lbs. Long legs yes but I’m also half Finnish and have a lot of sisu ;-)I’m in Oviedo. Gonna do a standard Camino Primitivo... I bailed to the train today about 20km in because I wanted to reset and my trekking pole snapped in half. The Camino was telling me... “don’t risk injury without your poles. Go to Oviedo and enjoy the afternoon.” I’m outside an “ecolaundry” waiting for clothes.
I told my Facebook friends how I copied your itinerary and that I should have known better because you are probably 5’11”, 140 lbs. with legs that go up to your armpits. On the JMT I met a Scottish girl like that and she kicked my a**.
No just 5’57” 140 lbs. Long legs yes but I’m also half Finnish and have a lot of sisu ;-)
Those Viking womenThat explains it all - 5'57" is really 5 feet plus 4 feet and 9 inches to give a total height of 9 feet and 9 inches!
Forget trail walking have you thought about basketball?
Haha I really tried to use your stupid stupid way of measuring things. 170 cm so much easierThat explains it all - 5'57" is really 5 feet plus 4 feet and 9 inches to give a total height of 9 feet and 9 inches!
Forget trail walking have you thought about basketball?