I walked the VDLP last year and it had its ups and downs mostly because it was still coming out of covid restrictions with lots of albergues still closed and almost every kitchen closed until I got to Galicia. I also ended up walking to Astorga as a couple of albergue owners thought open albergues on the Sanabria may even be scarcer. I was thinking of trying it again in a year or two, but instead of starting in Sevilla I would start in Cordoba and rejoin the VDLP and take it to the Sanabria to Santiago. Is the section from Cordoba to Merida still as lovely as earlier parts of the Mozarabic? According to Gronze it seems like there is pretty decent infrastructure, with municipal albergues a donativo or two that are listed as open all year. What time of year did you walk and were all the albergues open?
Yes, did in April tp May this year with a friend or 2. Very quiet, another peigrina every day or 2. Places that have hostel accommodation, access via council or police station very welcoming. Otherwise variable levels of if they're open, (where they are, oh gone to town and won't be back till 6, ok)Extramadura now very very poor, and not the jolly men talking noise to follow for the cafe in the morning, sometimes nothing at all. We chose carefully to be in bigger places over the weekend. In 30+ degree heat an Airbnb for a couple of nights was luxury
After merida becomes a *normal* camino