Hello from Stratford upon Avon, UK.

[antelope]

Hi. I'm a 52 year old man who's intending to walk the Camino Frances starting in mid April. I have no time limit, within reason, and as I'm pretty unfit - I'm not a regular walker - I imagine that it's going to take between 6 and 8 weeks. I want the walk to be allowed to happen, this isn't a sport and pace shouldn't, I think, be important.

I'm doing it for a number of reasons...I want a to achieve something challenging that will serve as a device to define things before, and things after. I hope to consolidate some spiritual insight. I hope to lose a little weight and become fitter. And I hope to find myself with a new sense of direction in my life once I've completed the walk.

Whilst I expect to meet some great people, I also intend to mainly walk alone, as I suspect this is where the best benefits might be acquired. But I did enjoy the film 'The Way' [which inspired me to walk] so of course it depends on who I meet.

I'm not sure I fancy bedbug ridden, cold halls echoing with snores and farts and so intend to assess each Albergue as I find them and be willing to stay in small hotels instead.

My concerns include temperature variance and how to provision for them, and also wild or feral dogs [do I need to have any concerns in this regard?]

That's about it. Here's to a life changing event. And may yours be so also, if that's what you wish.

Cheers
David

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hola David

Welcome to the Forum. It sounds as if you have a plan!

I've walked all over Spain and never had any problems with dogs. Some people carry a stick to help walking and "just in case" - I've never felt the need.

Mid April is a good time - the temperatures will be rising but still cool to walk in. Layering is the key to dealing with temperature variance - the combination of base, middle and outer layer works well. You may wear all three on a very cold morning/evening but as the temperature rises and walking heats you up you can discard one or two.

I'm sure all will be well.

Buen Camino

John

 

[antelope]

Thanks John. I'm looking forward to starting. Perhaps it'll have as big an impact on my life as it appears to have had on yours!

Cheers
David

 

[tyrrek]

Hi David

As John says, you've chosen a great time to walk. I started 19th April 2011 and finished at the end of May. I was also unfit so took my time with a couple of rest days and several short days.

Most days the weather was perfect for walking. A few were rainy and a few were hot, but generally ideal. Even when it rains it's sometimes a very light drizzle that hardly seems to hit the ground, and can be quite refreshing.

You will hear dogs barking at you from behind fences as you pass through villages, but no cause for concern. Nor did I hear complaints of bedbugs - perhaps more of a problem later in the year.

You'll find pilgrims generally are a considerate bunch, and understand that people have different needs and motivations, so they won't be offended if you want to walk alone. If you meet a nice group that you want to catch up with the following evening for dinner it can be useful to have a mobile phone to find out where they're staying/eating. There will always be people walking near you, so there will be assistance in case of injury etc, God forbid.

Buen Camino!

Keith

 

[antelope]

Thanks for this Keith. Can you give me some idea please of the clothing and equipment you took? I'm guessing at this point that I need a base layer and a warm fleece [plus a waterproof] for warmth in the mountains at the start, but imagine that this would be too much later on in May at lower altitudes. And yet the altitude climbs considerably about two thirds of the way through...so does that mean lugging the warm clothing across the warmer part of the trail?

And what temperature spec sleeping bag should I bring? I was rather hoping that I might get away with just a bag liner and a mat, together with a bivvy for occasional nights under the stars..This would keep weight to a minimum, but would I be warm enough?

 

[tyrrek]

Hi David

You'll see so much advice on equipment, clothing etc on this site. It depends a lot on people's own experience of the time of year they were walking and personal things like how cold you tend to feel at night. And luck!

I probably walked most of the time in a t-shirt, sun hat, three quarter length shorts, socks and boots. If it gets cold add a fleece. If it gets wet add a rain jacket. If it's cold and wet add both! Obviously things need washed at varying intervals, so you'll need a substitute while they are drying. How often you're prepared to wash clothes is a personal preference, but maybe 3 underwear, socks, t-shirts etc should be enough if you're disciplined and allow for rainy nights when clothes might not dry. The value of 'quick dry' fabrics shouldn't be underestimated.

I'd go for a compact sleeping bag rather than a liner. Albergues sometimes have blankets to supplement and sometimes not. Even when you start walking around 8am there can still be a chill in the air, but that means it's a clear day and you'll be warm later. You warm up anyway from the walking.

You've probably sussed by now that I am no expert on outdoor sports, but neither are most peregrinos. I survived, didn't suffer too much, didn't die, and loved the experience. Common sense goes a long way!

Buen Camino!

ps. Old fashioned nappy pins are great for hanging semi-dried clothes on your backpack while walking!

 

[mmm042]

Hello!

You will have a great time on your trip. I'm only familiar with the Via de la Plata, but albergues vary wildly in how nice/clean they are. But pilgrims who have done the Frances told me it's the same. There tend to be more problems with bedbugs on the Frances because of the greater number of pilgrims, I'm told; the VDLP is less problematic because of the fewer number of pilgrims.

Re: dogs, I've definitely run into quite a few nasty ones. Not feral, but very aggressive, and generally they're on large farms or properties and the owners aren't around to call them back. That being said, there were only 3 times where I was truly scared -- where the dogs ran up to me with their teeth bared, fur raised and kept making little charges at me. The last time it happened, I was quite glad to have a trekking pole with me. But that didn't scare him off -- it was pretending to pick up a rock to throw, which pilgrims always say is the best thing to do in Spain, as most dogs know exactly what that means. So don't walk in fear, but do be aware. (For what it's worth, there seem to be a lot more dogs, and almost all German shepherds, in Galicia, at least on the VDLP.)

Melanie

 

[tyrrek]

I had a minor dog incident on the Camino Ingles when a ridiculous little dog approached from behind and looked like it might go for my leg. When I turned to face it it backed off.

I think dogs may be an issue on some of the less walked routes, where the dogs (and their owners) aren't so used to strangers passing through. On the Frances there are so many pilgrims passing that any sensible dog would get bored very quickly if they tried to bark at everyone. You're more likely to find 'siesta dog' or 'slobbery over-friendly dog' in my experience!

Buen Camino!

p.s. I also had a dog stalker outside Hontanas. It seemed to follow pilgrims for a while until it got too far from home then went back and followed someone else. I think it just wondered where everyone was going and wanted to join in. I appreciate this kind of thing can be disconcerting if you don't like dogs.

 

[antelope]

Thanks for the advice all. And yes indeed, the forum is full of advice on clothing and equipment, and it does seem that everyone has their own approach. If it wasn't for the need to cope with cold at higher altitudes, and heat at lower, I think the whole question would be simpler.

I think I'm going to plan on taking one synthetic [very quick drying] base layer shirt for warmth [they're very lighweight], a couple of tee shirts and a light cotton long sleeved shirt [to avoid sunburned arms], a mid weight fleece, a rainproof top [not sure about trousers], two pairs of walking trousers...the type where the lower half unzips to turn them into shorts, two pairs of liner socks, two pairs of oversocks and two pairs of underpants.

I hear you Keith regarding the compact sleeping bag. I might explore the liner option in conjunction with base layer trousers as well though [in effect long johns] just to make sure. And I'll also take a bivouac rather than a tent so I can sleep out and not worry about rain, but also not have the weight of a tent to carry.

I get knackered walking around the Stratford shops never mind hauling myself six hundred miles across a mountain range, and I'm very keen on keeping the weight down as low as possible.

As for dogs...I love dogs but am absolutely terrified of them when they attack, for some reason. Is there any device available designed to scare them away? I'm reading a book called 'I'm off then' by Hape Kerkeling in which he describes one chap who's carrying pepper spray, 'electroshockers' and an 'ultrasound club'!!

 

[tyrrek]

I'm reading a book called 'I'm off then' by Hape Kerkeling in which he describes one chap who's carrying pepper spray, 'electroshockers' and an 'ultrasound club'!!

Ha ha! That sounds like he's planning the 'War on Terrier'. I'm sure these ultrasound devices must be fairly portable and reasonably priced. It will give reassurance if needed.

Your clothing plans sound extremely appropriate to me.

Re. general fitness. One of the joys of my Camino was the feeling of increasing strength as I progressed. It's the first time I felt really fit in about 20 years. I decided to do it at short notice so had no training, but like you was aware of it and took my time.

Buen Camino!

 

[antelope]

Ha ha! That sounds like he's planning the 'War on Terrier'.

Badoom tish.....

I'll take a look and see what's on offer.

Couple of quick questions...is it important to have thick socks? I find that my boots pinch with anything more than thin, everyday socks.

And secondly, how easy is it to just lay down alongside the path and camp out? [ooerr...dogs? Don't they have wolves in Galicia?]

 

[tyrrek]

I'm not an expert on socks, I'm afraid. I just went into Millets, explained what I was going to do and they recommended some. I think they were medium thickness given the time of year. You'll see elsewhere on the forum that some people suggest wearing 2 pairs as a strategy to avoid blisters, which could help.

Really don't have a clue about camping I'm afraid. I think I only saw one party who had pitched a couple of small tents along the Way. One or two of the albergues have limited camping facilities apparently, but I can't remember seeing them in the ones where I stayed. I've a feeling that technically wild camping is illegal in places, but that might just be in public spaces like parks.

 

[methodist.pilgrim.98]

Hi from the north west UK.

If you want to reduce weight you might consider only taking one pair of proper walking trousers which split at the thighs. These are the ones you wear when you set out to the airport. I have found that is enough.

I have taken sensible boxer shorts and if I have needed to wash the trouser seat then I have not had anyone complain that I have walked around the albergue in my underwear. If it has been cold I have simply settled into my sleeping bag.

If the legs have got wet or dirty then zip them off and wash them seperately.

If you are modest, slip on your coat and then let everyone guess what you are wearing underneath.

The north face trousers dried so quickly that I had no problem without a spare pair of trousers and the weight saved was considerable - they are amongst the heaviest item of clothing you can carry.

ps one T shirt should be enough if you have 2 other shirts. Sleep in the shirt you are going to wear the next day.

 

[Sojourner47]

. And I'll also take a bivouac rather than a tent so I can sleep out and not worry about rain, but also not have the weight of a tent to carry.

I get knackered walking around the Stratford shops never mind hauling myself six hundred miles across a mountain range, and I'm very keen on keeping the weight down as low as possible.

I've posted before on the "Equipment" strand about pack weights/what to carry etc, so will briefly repeat myself here,
I have Deuter 20 litre Airwalk pack, and into it I can fit: Hooped bivi bag, self inflating sleepmat, down sleepingbag, spare clothes, raingear, 2x 500ml water bottles, all misc stuff like 1st aid kit, washing kit, toiletation kit etc, plus room for trail snacks and so on. All up weight less than 5 kilos.
Who needs more?? :mrgreen:

 

[antelope]

Thanks, point taken on the trousers. I've only just started planning this so will be adjusting the list. Doubtless as I fill up the pack, some things will be discarded.

Sojourner, you've pretty much described the approach I'm taking, although I'm looking at Osprey packs, which seem quite light and very good. Can you confirm that's OK to sleep out on the CF and if so, where? Bearing in mind that I'm traveling mid april through May, what weight bag should I take? [I can't get over this issue of changes in altitude along the route]

 

[methodist.pilgrim.98]

Personally I would not sleep outside as I like my bed but here is another thought.

The Camino path between Fromista and Carrion de los Condes is beside a road and very straight.

If there is a good moon or you have a good torchlight you could walk between the two at night. By the time you get to Fromista you will know roughly how fast you walk and how long the journey will take you. Get to bed early and then get up and walk it, arriving around dawn.

Remember to sleep in part of the refugio where you're alarm will not wake others up. Take a hostel room, though make sure you have paid your bill in advance and that you can exit without setting off any alarms.

Just an idle thought.

ps you will know that whatever size bag you carry there no more than 10kg with bag + contents. You can by with a 35L rucksack if you are ruthless enough.

 

[Sojourner47]

Thanks, point taken on the trousers. I've only just started planning this so will be adjusting the list. Doubtless as I fill up the pack, some things will be discarded.

Sojourner, you've pretty much described the approach I'm taking, although I'm looking at Osprey packs, which seem quite light and very good. Can you confirm that's OK to sleep out on the CF and if so, where? Bearing in mind that I'm traveling mid april through May, what weight bag should I take? [I can't get over this issue of changes in altitude along the route]

The consensus on wild camping seems to be that as long as you keep a low profile, don't encroach on anyone's private garden etc, and leave the site as you find it, then there shouldn't be too much problem about kipping down somewhere along the route. I hasten to add that I haven't wild camped on camino - stayed in hostals/albergues before, but I plan to have a go next time (April)
My sleeping bag is a Deuter 600 - maybe a bit light but can sleep with clothes on if cold.
To my mind there are 3 factors about the camino:
You can travel cheaply, be comfortable, and carry little gear. Any combination of 2, but not all 3.
Travel cheaply, and be (fairly) comfortable - wild camp, but will carry a heavier load.
Travel cheaply, and carry less - stay in albergues, but might not be too comfortable.
Travel lightweight, and be comfortable - stay in hostals/pensiones, but won't be cheap.
My major constraint is lack of cash, so I favour wild camping, also I'm not keen on sharing my personal space with strangers. And I have all the gear for it (not cheap, certainly)
Then again, one is much more independent: can walk on until nightfall if wished, without the 2pm rush for a bed. Swings and roundabouts, as they say, and that is just my opinion.
PS - I'm 65, so you should easily outrun me, even carrying full camping gear. :lol:

 

[antelope]

Well I agree with you. Mostly anyway. I don't like the idea of being pressured to walk fast in order to make the next albergue in time, and also I don't really like the sound of albergues anyway.

I enjoy sleeping under the stars, although April would mean pretty early nights! Which is a big minus actually. I do have some cash and do intend to stay in pensiones or B&B [or even small hotels] occasionally. Depends on the local Albergue I suppose.

I wouldn't want to be sleeping out all of the time though. Even most of the time. I'd just like the option to if it's clear I'm not going to make the next village or stopping point. It's supposed to be a pilgrimage, not a race. I want to ponder life, the universe and everything! And meet others as well of course. But mainly I think this trip is a personal thing. And I don't think it needs to involve hardship. Bedbugs sound seriously unpleasant to me.

Also I gather that it's possible at some Albergues to sleep outside the building on a patch of grass or something. Then you get the best of both worlds...the Albergue facilities, without the farts, snores and bedbugs. Anyone have any experience of this?

 

[tyrrek]

I realised shortly after writing my last post that it wasn't accurate. I forgot about the guy with a donkey who had to sleep in a tent very often due to said beast. He seemed to do alright, although he may have had pre-arranged agreements with farmers etc. I suppose if he can manage it with a donkey...

I'd just emphasise that it can still be pretty cold at night. If you get a really warm night it would be fantastic to sleep out (although the beautiful clear, starry nights are usually the chilly ones), and please don't get hypothermia! You will need a good sleeping bag if you're going down that route in my opinion.

Edit: Just another thought. If you see a nice sheltered spot by the route beware that others may also have spotted it and used it for toilet purposes. These sites are fairly easy to identify by the discarded toilet paper. Maybe try to find a place 10 mins or so off route.

 

[lindamuchmore]

Hi there
Very interesting to read all your posts.
I would love to do something very similar to you
But being female (also aged 52) don't really want to camp out on my own
Have you thought of a travelling companion - you know, not in the pocket, but side-by-side?
If so, let me know.
Problem is I can't go til mid May
Though of course, the weather will be a bit nicer.
Buen camino
Linda

 

[antelope]

Hi Linda

I read much about how two people walking together can be problematic, due to differing temperaments, expectations and above all, walking pace. Apart from that, I think I want to do this alone as there's a degree of self exploration involved. And I want to find a real sense of detachment. Maybe this will all change part way through, but that's how I intend to start.

Anyway, I'm too embarrassed to be seen huffing and puffing up the hills like Thomas the Tank Engine!

Cheers
David

 

[antelope]

Linda..another thought..May will take you into June when the whole thing is starting to get really busy. And despite my last post, as I understand it, it's actually quite hard to be alone on the Camino, as you tend to fall in step with others who are walking at the same pace.