Kiwi-family
{Rachael, the Mama of the family}
- Time of past OR future Camino
- walking every day for the rest of my life
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Don't get me started! But anyway.Peregrino Paul
Would you mind sharing a little more of your cycling experience? My father-in-law was an avid cyclist until three months ago (at 83 was still regularly putting in 80km). It is unlikely he will get back on a bicycle even if he fully recovers, but he also rides a recumbent trike and that is a distinct possibility. Do the cycling paths differ much from the walking ones? We have on occasion done city walks where the family goes on foot and he rides his trike - so this might be a possibility. Thanks for commenting as it has opened up another line of thought!
Look, I can't resist coming clean about my encounter with Calvario, the hill just before Almaden.My recollection is similar to Paul's the Castilblanco de los Arroyos to Almaden de la Plata is difficult either way and without any obvious public transport possibility.
As another bike pilgrim who stuck to the roads on the VdlP (except up the hill out of Banos) I would say that the main road alternative is the old N630 which was the main North-South road before the autovia was built with a wide hard shoulder.
The route is less interesting as a whole (though it has some of the greatest towns in Spain) than the CF with less pilgrims which may or may not matter if you are travelling as a family. You are right to say that in general it is flat but the sections from Guillena to Zafra is up and down and the day after Banos is very hilly.
If you are looking for a new experience it is a good route but perhaps not the best one for your father in law and really only in spring or autumn.
Hi MikeHola Paul - And people wonder why crazy foreigners from distant lands come to Spain. Your experiences are typical of many of us who have "come unstuck". I received similar assistance back in 2013 at Albergue del Embalse de Alcantara when I injured my foot. I am cycling the Frances this Sept and hope to return to the Silver Way in May 2016.
Kiwi - if you get a hold of Alison Raju's pocket size guide to the Camino Mozarabe (VdlP) she mentions the parts of the Camino that are not suitable for even mountain bikes and offers alternatives. You should be able to get a copy from the Confraternity of St James in the UK - my last edition was 2011 but there might be a later one out now. Buen Camino!
Hi David,Yes I remember that climb up to Almaden. I struggled to the top on a hot day (walking), and in the park on the right were a bunch of teenagers enjoying themselves, singing and talking. They had big vases of Sangria and they called out to me but I didn't understand the words but they made it pain that I was to sit down at one of the benches. Then they came to me with a big glass of Sangria, signing me to drink up. On finishing they gave me another, which refreshed me and gave me the energy to walk on to the albergue. Such casual acts of kindness from a bunch of teenagers makes walking a camino so wonderful.
Hey, thank you.Great story Paul (and enjoyable writing style too!)
So how far was the hill? And how steep? Any comparison with the hill after Castrojeriz perhaps?
The picture above looks rocky but not steep.
Thanks for your corroboration Alan!Kiwi-family. Very steep! Certainly the part I took. I reckon most people (I know I did) approach it 12-1pm after 27km of walking.Also, it's early on on the camino so most people aren't in tip-top condition. It's the perfect storm for a tough climb.At least with the hill after Castrojerez you can get it out of the way early doors.
This made me laugh but also brought tears to my eyes! People can be amazing! Give people a hug says it in any languageLook, I can't resist coming clean about my encounter with Calvario, the hill just before Almaden.
My first day out of Seville saw me reach Castilblanco without incident, and although it was very hot, June and high 30's I'd guess, I was feeling pretty good about my progress. I remember the bliss of a cold wash at that water pump, signposted in every language imaginable.
Anyway, the second day was equally hot, but the road to the gate of El Berrocal was easy, and the ride through the national park beautiful. Then came the abrupt stop at the foot of the climb. The track is very stony and cut by gullies. And very steep. From the bottom, you have no idea how far, or how high it goes because of the trees. Now, I'm getting on in years and there were two other things distinctly not in my favour. I have a problem with arthritic knees, and, would you believe I was wearing sandals, my only footwear.
I assessed the hill; there was zero possibility of my pushing the bike plus gear up the hill, so I took off the panniers and carried them fifty metres or so up the hill, put them under a tree and went back for the bike. After quite a sruggle I managed to reunite bike and bags, and began again. After two more such trips, I was still nowhere near the top, was in a state of utter exhaustion, my knees were screaming, and I had grave doubts that my sandals would hold together much longer, not to mention worries about water. I remember sitting there, feeling utterly miserable, in the shade of a tree, thinking that I was mad to have ever have thought I could do this.
After several minutes, I heard a noise, and was amazed to see a caballero coming up the hill on what seemed to be a huge horse. I should mention that this was the first person I'd seen the entire day, apart from passing cars. He stopped and looked down at this picture of abject misery, and began firing off a few sentences in that machine-gun Spanish, and of course I understood not a word.. I just looked at him, speechless. However, he then said a word I did understand "Bolsos", and motioned for me to hand up my bags, which I did, and then blow me he rode off up the hill muttering.
I sat there in some state of shock. I knew I didn't have the energy to push the bike any further. (Let me tell you, in these situations you find out very quickly how heavy and unweildy a mountain bike can be). But then, after a few minutes, another apparition! A young man, (obviously very fit), dressed in singlet and shorts, came RUNNING down the hill to me. He grabbed the bike and pushed it to the top where the caballero waited, with me rather shame-faced plodding behind.
How I wish I had known some Spanish beyond gracias, to express my gratitude those guys. Where the young man came from I've no idea, I just reflected on the fact that people say miracles happen on the camino.
Many others and myself included took taxis to the gates of the National Park on Day 3 to miss out the 15km highway walk so that would be an option for Granpa. It's then a beautiful walk through El Berrecal. There are opportunities to take bus transport at times. looking at my journal on day 14 we caught a bus from Aldeo del Cano to Caceres. Pouring with rain and to rest my blisters!
Day 18 took taxi in am from Canaveral to Grimaldo just 8 kms.
Day 19 got picked up by hospitalero from Olivia de Placencia 6kms and he dropped us back at Arc Caparra next am.
Day 20 were recommended to stay in Hervas so got picked up in Aldeneuva del Camino by wonderful hospitalero.Stayed 2 nights in his beautiful Albergue Turistica. Old Jewish quarter in town so interesting.
Day 22 short bus trip back to Camino in Banos de Montemayor
So you can see plenty of opportunities. Wow! It's great reading over the journal again,brought back so many memories .
Hope this helps a bit Rachael
Heather
Heather, how did you contact the hospitalero from Olivia de Placencia and did he pick you up at the turn off to the track to OdP? Also, similarly with the hospitalero in Aldeneuva del Camino - how did you contact him to be collected?
I wonder if this is a message from God! Just this week Grandpa made the call that while it looks very interesting, he thinks it is unsuitable for him on a recumbent trike (he is unable to use an upright bike now with all the metalware holding his spine in place). He rightly states that although he could manage the distances (he's managing 42km now, admittedly on the flat), a path that is tricky on a mountian bike will be unpassable on a low and unmanouverable trike.I've walked from Sevilla to Caceres and to me, it's one of the easier Camino routes.
Not sure what happens from Caceres forward - hoping to finish that up this next season.
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