I'm new here. I've walked and will walk again...

[cecelia]

Hi Everyone,
This is just a note to introduce myself as it's my first time on this site. I'm a Canadian, from Vancouver, and have been on the Camino Frances 3 times. In 2003 I walked alone from SJPP to Santiago de Compostela to celebrate my 60th year - and to do some thinking about 'the future', including a rather tentative grasp on spirituality. In 2006 I walked from SJPP to Burgos with my daughter and a friend.. This year in April/May I walked from SJPP to Finisterre.
Walking the camino has been a wonderful journey for me in so many ways and I will walk again soon - although will probably choose another route - likely either the Via de la Plata or whatever the way up from Arles in France is called. Not this year though unfortunately. In the meantime, I love connecting with those who have walked the camino and who will be doing so. I'm happy to give my opinion and share my experience with anyone who thinks it might be useful and when I'm ready to go again I will no doubt be seeking advice.
On a note of possible controvery I'd like to comment that although Santiago itself is a beautiful city and I have enjoyed visiting, it is certainly not my favourite place on the camino. Maybe something to do with the loud circus that towered over the city day and night for the four days I was there this year. But watching the sun rise or set at the end of the earth in Finisterre - ah - now that is a wonderful and appropriate end to a long journey!
Okay - that's probably way more than anyone wanted or needed to know. I look forward to reading the forum discussions and commenting where it might be helpful.
Peace and health to you all.
Cecelia

 

[Arn]

Hi Cecelia,

I am in Spain (Malaga) for a week prior to my departure from SJPDP. I've read the previous info on how to get to PDP from Madrid, but they appear rather vexing. Most indicate taking the bus or train to Pamplona, then on to Roncevalles by bus and then taxi to SJPDP.

Do you have any other, or can you confirm this is the easiest way.

regards
Arn

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Arn - there are options. You could fly from Malaga to Pamplona if you are flush or take the AVE from Malaga to Madrid, I think in about 4 hours. Or get a bus to Madrid.

Once in Madrid you can get a train or the most preferred option, a bus, to Pamplona. Another option would be to get a flight from Madrid to Pamplona - they can cost 30 - 40 euros if you are lucky.

Once in Pamplona it is straightforward with a weekday but at 6pm to Roncesvalles and then a taxi over the mountain to St Jean.

Others may have more suggestions.

 

[Arn]

Johnny,

It appears I will fly from Madrid into Malaga and back. For there your suggestion of a bus to Pamplona to R'ville and then a taxi to SJPDP the best option. I'm sure as I travel down the mountain, I'll regret no just starting at the top. Then again, the walk up puts me in step with history!

Thanks again...hey, what about your comments on single malts?
regards
Arn

 

[cecelia]

Hi Arn,
I'm afraid I don't have a better suggestion. I have always flown into Biarritz from Canada (through London since it's one of the direct flights from Vancouver) and then taken a short train ride from Biarritz to SJPP. I did hear that train trip isn't available now though I haven't checked myself. The flight from Malaga to Madrid is an easy one (I did that this spring). The price was about 35 Euros. It seems a shame to go to Roncesvalles and then take a taxi to SJPP but I definitely recommend that you begin in SJPP if you can. The walk over the mountain is, in my opinion, a fabulous part of the trip.
Once you get to SJPP you have some options - depending upon the time of day you arrive. You can either stay overnight at the albergue in SJPP (which I have never done) or you can put on your first 6 kilometers and stay at Huntto overnight or 8-10 kms.and stay at Orisson overnight. The latter two obviously give you an early start on the mountain the next day but all three will give you an opportunity to meet some other people. It can feel like bumping into an old friend when you meet those people at different places along the way. Both Huntto and Orisson provide dinner and breakfast as part of the price (about 27 Euros). You may want to pick up the next day's lunch at SJPP before you leave. Nuts and dried fruit or bread & cheese or a small can of tuna. Watch the weight.
Sorry I can't be more helpful about the flights.
Cecelia

 

[JohnnieWalker]

At risk of starting a thread exclusively on drink I confess to being a Islay Malt man. It is not only a beautiful island but with a population of less than 5,000 people its produces a disproportionate number of delicious whiskies. I know that for some the peatiness is an acquired taste but in fact the heavier whiskies like Laphroaig are reminsicent of some Spanish brandies such as Cardinal Mendosa or Gran Duque de Alba. But there is huge variety. A second location for me would be the Orkney Islands where Highland Park is outstanding.

But I wouldn't like to give you the impression I drink much of the stuff - just the odd wee sensation :roll:

 

[atlanticheart]

Hi Cecilia,

Wow, three times. That's impressive.

I will be walking from St Jean to Santiago next year in April/May. How did you find the weather? Was it very cold in the mornings, and up in the mountains for example? I'm a little worried about not bringing enough, yet I don't want to bring too much. Was there snow in the mountains?

Were there many people walking, so the albuerges got crowded?

Regards,
Hilda

 

[cecelia]

Hi HIlda,
Congratulations on your decision to walk the camino. Many have said that once you've made the decision, your journey has already started. It was definitely the case for me- and others- so be aware of the possibilities. You may be delighted with what comes up for you.
The first thing to say about the weather in April and May is that it's pretty unpredictable. It's spring and very similar to spring in Canada and many parts of Europe. It can be quite cold and very hot. There's a good chance it will rain - and maybe a lot - so be prepared - light rain pants and a poncho or jacket. Rain in Spain is not mainly on the plain - it's all over and it brings mud, sticky, slippery and at times up to 6 or more inches deep. I wear waterproof leather boots. Yes it can be cold (more on that later) but with the exception of one day in my 3 trips I had more trouble keeping cool and dry that I did staying warm. Consider a jacket with underarm vents and rain pants with side zippers. Dress in layers. I take a light silk undershirt (available at camping stores) a light merino wool (camping store also) sweater and a synthetic vest. That and a rain jacket are all I've needed on top. I also take lightweight silk long johns (yes - camping stores) so with those, pants and rain pants I'm always warm enough. Some people take gloves and a hat. I take a synthetic fuzzy head band (think skiing). It keeps the ears warm when necessary and weighs nothing. The albergues can be very cold at night because they have no heat. I have a sleeping bag that weighs less than a kilo that is good to zero degrees and a silk sleeping bag sheet. A couple of times I've worn most of my clothes to bed but most (not all) albergues have a blanket you can use. As I said - think of light layers of clothes. You will definitely also need sun protection. A long sleeved, light shirt, definitely a hat and probably sun screen. I never wear them at any other time but 8 or more hours is a long time to be out in the hot sun.
The issue about walking in April/May is that you're straddling seasons and need clothes for hot and quite cool. The flowers are fantastic though and it's worth the trouble.
Some albergues can be crowded - especially in May. But to start - if you're going to stop at Orisson on the way up from SJPP, definitely make a reservation ahead of time They have a website. The pilgrim's office will phone up for you to check for space but it's worth it to reserve. This past year as I walked I found that several albergues were being repaired and cleaned and so were closed for a few days. As you near the end, there is more of a chance that albergues will be full but I probably only had to make other arrangements about 6 times. I didn't mind because the places called Casa Rural are wonderful and clean as are the hostels and are pretty inexpensive. I'm a slow walker so often don't finish my day until about 4:00.
Hope that answers your questions. Buen camino.
Cecelia