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Thank you so much for sharing your Camino, it was vary brave of you and hopefully, made you even stronger.To Villalcazar de Sirga…
Eggs for breakfast available in Poblacion. Yessss!!!!
I’m not sure it’s even worth checking the weather apps here. All day yesterday, it was supposed to rain and it didn’t. Then it was not supposed to rain today, and it suddenly said “rain!” right before I was headed out the door. Changed to waterproof socks and crocs and made sure my rain jacket was accessible. And then it didn’t rain.
Not much to photograph of the walk. Mostly tiny farming towns and then some rolling hills next to busy road. Until you reach Villalcazar, which I think is quite pretty.
The church has a Templar history and an icon of the Virgin Mary associated with miracles that is unusual in its construction (stone not wood) so I decided to check it out. The church itself looks more like a castle/fortress (which may indicate a previous use according to my guidebook), and then La Virgen Blanca. She’s lovely. Church is incredibly simple except the altarpiece, which is impressive. I’m glad I’m staying here tonight. It would have been really easy to just bypass it for the next town and I would have missed the church.
I arrived early and found a corner in a bar to do some thinking. One of my goals has been embodied listening and trusting my ability to hear rather than “experts.” A voice I’ve been putting off listening to that needed attention. So I listened.
And beyond…
April 29 is my thirtieth day on trail. I’ve walked 250 trail miles. I’ve significantly improved my lung capacity. My hiking pants are so loose they look a bit ridiculous at this point. I’ve done a lot of trauma processing and release. I’ve regained my pre Covid walking stride and reconnected with this body that no longer felt familiar, post Covid. I’ve made some good progress in reducing the hypervigilance due to mothering during a worldwide pandemic. I’ve also discerned some new boundaries to enact. I could not ask for more goals met.
April 30 is the new moon, and a time for new beginnings. And that voice pointed out some new overuse injuries I’ve been ignoring, that will get worse if I don’t give them attention. The increase in Covid on the Camino isn’t worth exposing myself to albergue bunks, at this point, especially given the carelessness of many pilgrims because their risk profile is lower. And I’m tired. This post Covid body is stronger now, but also should not be pushed to her limit, which is what will happen if I continue. My dear grandma who passed recently at the age of 99 and who has been near to my heart this whole walk, would have told me to stop burning the candle at both ends.
So this new moon is the end of my Camino and a beginning. I’ll be taking some time to rest my body and soul, and to integrate the mental health gains I’ve made. I realize that alluding to mental health on pilgrimage is unusual on the forum. I shared more than some would about my struggles and realizations this last month, on purpose, to normalize the idea that pilgrimage can be more than just a good long walk. ‘Nuff said on that point.
I’m sitting on a bar patio, enjoying my orange juice, coffee and tortilla, facing a beautiful Spanish Plaza. The sun is shining.
This is the end of my narrative. Peace out, dear pilgrims.
-Because every ending should always include a fist pump
Your courage and wisdom inspire me! Thank you for being so honest and vulnerable in sharing your journey. Thank you for reminding us "that pilgrimage can be more than just a good long walk." Peace and blessings @Eve Alexandra!To Villalcazar de Sirga…
Eggs for breakfast available in Poblacion. Yessss!!!!
I’m not sure it’s even worth checking the weather apps here. All day yesterday, it was supposed to rain and it didn’t. Then it was not supposed to rain today, and it suddenly said “rain!” right before I was headed out the door. Changed to waterproof socks and crocs and made sure my rain jacket was accessible. And then it didn’t rain.
Not much to photograph of the walk. Mostly tiny farming towns and then some rolling hills next to busy road. Until you reach Villalcazar, which I think is quite pretty.
The church has a Templar history and an icon of the Virgin Mary associated with miracles that is unusual in its construction (stone not wood) so I decided to check it out. The church itself looks more like a castle/fortress (which may indicate a previous use according to my guidebook), and then La Virgen Blanca. She’s lovely. Church is incredibly simple except the altarpiece, which is impressive. I’m glad I’m staying here tonight. It would have been really easy to just bypass it for the next town and I would have missed the church.
I arrived early and found a corner in a bar to do some thinking. One of my goals has been embodied listening and trusting my ability to hear rather than “experts.” A voice I’ve been putting off listening to that needed attention. So I listened.
And beyond…
April 29 is my thirtieth day on trail. I’ve walked 250 trail miles. I’ve significantly improved my lung capacity. My hiking pants are so loose they look a bit ridiculous at this point. I’ve done a lot of trauma processing and release. I’ve regained my pre Covid walking stride and reconnected with this body that no longer felt familiar, post Covid. I’ve made some good progress in reducing the hypervigilance due to mothering during a worldwide pandemic. I’ve also discerned some new boundaries to enact. I could not ask for more goals met.
April 30 is the new moon, and a time for new beginnings. And that voice pointed out some new overuse injuries I’ve been ignoring, that will get worse if I don’t give them attention. The increase in Covid on the Camino isn’t worth exposing myself to albergue bunks, at this point, especially given the carelessness of many pilgrims because their risk profile is lower. And I’m tired. This post Covid body is stronger now, but also should not be pushed to her limit, which is what will happen if I continue. My dear grandma who passed recently at the age of 99 and who has been near to my heart this whole walk, would have told me to stop burning the candle at both ends.
So this new moon is the end of my Camino and a beginning. I’ll be taking some time to rest my body and soul, and to integrate the mental health gains I’ve made. I realize that alluding to mental health on pilgrimage is unusual on the forum. I shared more than some would about my struggles and realizations this last month, on purpose, to normalize the idea that pilgrimage can be more than just a good long walk. ‘Nuff said on that point.
I’m sitting on a bar patio, enjoying my orange juice, coffee and tortilla, facing a beautiful Spanish Plaza. The sun is shining.
This is the end of my narrative. Peace out, dear pilgrims.
-Because every ending should always include a fist pump
I think that kindness generates kindness. And I think you have a super power: you see the good in people and bring the best out of people.the kindness of the Spanish toward pilgrims never ceases to amaze me.
Can you share?I can highly recommend Sagrado Corazon for a tattoo
I was debating a tattoo when I reach Santiago. Back and forth. You pushed me forth nowI can highly recommend Sagrado Corazon for a tattoo.
Lol I not got any and doubt I ever will lolI was debating a tattoo when I reach Santiago. Back and forth. You pushed me forth now
I be reaching Santiago Wednesday lunch time , mind you I swap my knee for a perfect one as mine been an issue for past 10 days ..hope you like your tattooLol I not got any and doubt I ever will lol
Very pretty and feminine, Eve!It’s very hard to photograph the whole thing because it wraps around a bit. It’s got Camino elements and others too…sort of symbolic of a journey of my life.
Thank you so much for this information! I fly out of Washington DC to Madrid next week and I've been wondering about the QR code and if a negative test is required before travel. I am fully vaccinated/boosted and understand that I need to complete the Spanish Health form 48 hours prior to travel to obtain my QR code. My question is: Do I need to take a Covid test prior to my flight? Also, I am flying from Madrid to Pamplona on a separate ticket do I need to show a negative Covid test for a "domestic" flight within Spain? Thanks again for your helpful information.Hola friends. One airplane, one very long wait at jfk, and then another airplane, and I arrived in Madrid. For all the stress over QR codes and such that many of us have felt, it all went smoothly. I was called up to the gate desk before my first flight to prove that I had a valid passport, a QR code, a vaccination card. Then he asked if I had 96€ per day that I will be in Spain in the bank but he didn’t ask me to prove it. This process covered my second flight too. We weren’t handed out paper cards at the end of the flight to Madrid like I experienced in 2017. I can’t quite remember now what was on the card but I suspect it was all the same stuff that I had to answer to get the QR code, so that may be why it’s been scrapped. Followed the longest hallway ever to immigration. That was the same as always. Passport. Drop your mask briefly to check picture. This is where it’s different. Around the corner from passport control were several dressed in white PPE, head to toe. They scanned my QR code then asked to see my proof of vaccination. She did look carefully at it, then handed it back and that was it.
If you need to take a shuttle from the airport to Atocha station, it’s very easily done. Out the doors by the baggage claim, follow the signs for the shuttle. 5 € cash and a 15-20 min ride to the station. From there I walked to my hostel. I stayed at Hostal Residencia Fernandez on the recommendation of someone here. It’s mostly quiet, very clean. Very safe for a solo female. It faces the square at the Reina Sofia. I skipped the museum in favor of a nap (jetlag hits me hard).
Using google walking directions it was easy enough to find several Correos offices to send yourself a package for later if necessary, as well as several Orange and Vodafone outlets to get a SIM card. Plenty of food options within the city center as well. The next morning I had my first cafe con leche (as wonderful as I remembered) .
Then it was an easy walk back to the station to catch my train to Pamplona. When you enter the station it’s the building on your right for trains (The left is for the metro). More security (both bags and jacket). The digital boards showing the trains was simple to understand. Just in case you’re also from a place where public transportation is rare, at the bottom of your digital QR ticket in the center is a picture of a train with a number on it. That’s the car # to enter. To the right of that is your seat number.
Probably all of this is old hat to many of you, but I was completely overwhelmed by it all in 2017, so I want to pay it forward from my dear fellow peregrina who walked me through it, to anyone else who might also be nervous about what to expect. Renfe has an app for ticket purchase ahead of time. In the upper right hand corner you can choose English language if you need it. Fill it all out carefully, securely pay with a credit card and voila. QR code ticket. They will ask to see your passport, too, for identification. The recordings on the train are in English as well as Spanish once you’ve found your seat.
No, you don't need a test.My question is: Do I need to take a Covid test prior to my flight?
Buen Camino Peregrino!Hola friends. One airplane, one very long wait at jfk, and then another airplane, and I arrived in Madrid. For all the stress over QR codes and such that many of us have felt, it all went smoothly. I was called up to the gate desk before my first flight to prove that I had a valid passport, a QR code, a vaccination card. Then he asked if I had 96€ per day that I will be in Spain in the bank but he didn’t ask me to prove it. This process covered my second flight too. We weren’t handed out paper cards at the end of the flight to Madrid like I experienced in 2017. I can’t quite remember now what was on the card but I suspect it was all the same stuff that I had to answer to get the QR code, so that may be why it’s been scrapped. Followed the longest hallway ever to immigration. That was the same as always. Passport. Drop your mask briefly to check picture. This is where it’s different. Around the corner from passport control were several dressed in white PPE, head to toe. They scanned my QR code then asked to see my proof of vaccination. She did look carefully at it, then handed it back and that was it.
If you need to take a shuttle from the airport to Atocha station, it’s very easily done. Out the doors by the baggage claim, follow the signs for the shuttle. 5 € cash and a 15-20 min ride to the station. From there I walked to my hostel. I stayed at Hostal Residencia Fernandez on the recommendation of someone here. It’s mostly quiet, very clean. Very safe for a solo female. It faces the square at the Reina Sofia. I skipped the museum in favor of a nap (jetlag hits me hard).
Using google walking directions it was easy enough to find several Correos offices to send yourself a package for later if necessary, as well as several Orange and Vodafone outlets to get a SIM card. Plenty of food options within the city center as well. The next morning I had my first cafe con leche (as wonderful as I remembered) .
Then it was an easy walk back to the station to catch my train to Pamplona. When you enter the station it’s the building on your right for trains (The left is for the metro). More security (both bags and jacket). The digital boards showing the trains was simple to understand. Just in case you’re also from a place where public transportation is rare, at the bottom of your digital QR ticket in the center is a picture of a train with a number on it. That’s the car # to enter. To the right of that is your seat number.
Probably all of this is old hat to many of you, but I was completely overwhelmed by it all in 2017, so I want to pay it forward from my dear fellow peregrina who walked me through it, to anyone else who might also be nervous about what to expect. Renfe has an app for ticket purchase ahead of time. In the upper right hand corner you can choose English language if you need it. Fill it all out carefully, securely pay with a credit card and voila. QR code ticket. They will ask to see your passport, too, for identification. The recordings on the train are in English as well as Spanish once you’ve found your seat.
Thanks so much ... just wanted to be sure. One less thing to worry aboutNo, you don't need a test.
Information about entrance requirements is here.
Spanish Tourism | Tourist information on Spain | spain.info
Tourist information about Spain: art, culture, museums, monuments, beaches, cities, fiestas, routes, cuisine, natural spaces in Spain | spain.infotravelsafe.spain.info
@Eve Alexandra I’ve enjoyed your posts immensely, thank you for sharing so authentically and personally- including your beautiful new ink! You’ve inspired me to challenge myself in new and different ways on my own walk, and your info about your encounters has been very helpful! Wishing you well as you make your way!It’s very hard to photograph the whole thing because it wraps around a bit. It’s got Camino elements and others too…sort of symbolic of a journey of my life.
I am not flying back, but still felt compelled to post a reply to your amazing post. This is another level of supporting the fellow pilgrim! So much useful information, and the care that comes through. @Eve Alexandra, you have my admiration and respect, and for me, you embody the true spirit of the pilgrim.This is mostly just for newbies to international travel, those who don’t live where public transportation is common, and particularly for returning to the US.
Renfe app is worth downloading if you need to buy a train ticket from Santiago to wherever you’re flying out of (Madrid for me). My credit card gets refused but my PayPal has no problem going through. YMMV You get a QR code on your digital ticket. Some train stations will X-ray your bags. Others won’t. I saw both.
If you walk to the platform and see that yours is across the tracks in front of you, look for the stairs. They go under the tracks to get to the other side.
There is often a Renfe employee on the platform, and they may ask to see your ticket and then wave you to the left or right. They are looking to see what car your seat is in (middle bottom of your ticket) and they’re trying to tell you to stand closer to where your car will end up when the train stops. So if they wave you to the left, just say Gracias and walk in that direction. Lol Once the doors open you have 2 minutes to get on the train before it leaves so don’t dawdle.
If the seat is listed 63v/64p in the car, Ventana is the window seat.
If you need to catch a taxi outside the station, they are always there waiting, even late at night. Write the name and address of your location on a piece of paper and hand it to them to facilitate the sometimes confusing “where do you need to go” moment. Don’t be surprised that the meter is already “charged” somewhere between 4,50 and 7,50 euro. It’s the cost of them being at the station for you. Generally it’s 1 euro per km, but more if you’re hiring in a big city.
There are also busses and subways to get to your location. Use Rome2Rio app to see your options.
Hostel El Cruce in Madrid has a free shuttle to the airport and the guy at the counter speaks English. Nice hostel. Not as inexpensive as on the Camino but less than a hotel. There’s nothing around in terms of food or anything else so get what you need first.
I had a mix up with my self-test Covid test (it was my fault) and had to schedule one at the last minute. In spite of the massive anxiety attack this caused me (I hadn’t slept well for 2 nights, don’t judge), it was fine.
Fly Covid Center is what to google. You pay for it online (this one did take my credit card without a problem). It’s more expensive if you walk in without an appt, and you’re also not guaranteed a test if they are busy. You need your passport number and flight number to sign up. You can choose terminal T2 or T4 in Madrid-Barajas. Check both if your first choice doesn’t have the time you need. Don’t worry if your plane departs from T1 or T3. It’s okay.
In T4 you want floor 2 all the way to the left and then a right on the “red” corridor and then follow the signs. I showed up early and still got in right away. They check your passport, give you a paper and send you to the next free test station. It literally took one minute.
My plane left from terminal 1. Return to elevator and go to the first floor and follow the signs for the shuttle marked t4>t3, t2, t1. You’ll go down an escalator on the way. Others will also be standing there; it’s clearly marked when you land at the bottom of the escalator. If you’re confused as to what your stop is and can’t find someone to ask, turn on google maps, search the terminal you want and watch the bus follow the route. #anxietytravelhack
You will save yourself endless grief if you fill out all the stuff your airline wants ahead of time to complete check in on their app. I had my Covid result before I was even off the shuttle. I flew delta and all I needed to do is take a screen shot of the test result and upload it to the app. Then click agree to the “attestation” the US govt requires that you haven’t been asked to quarantine. And then also a form with your address for contact tracing reasons. If you haven’t done it already for your flight to Spain, they’ll also want you to upload evidence of your vaccination/negative Covid test and passport info.
I did all of this in about 10 minutes in the airport once I had the Covid result so all I had to do was wait in the baggage drop off line once I got there. The check in line looked like an hour long wait, by comparison.
Show your passport. Show your passport. Show your passport. And 12 million more times show your passport. And once more for good measure, show your passport. Don’t even bother to put it away.
The Spanish version of TSA is set up just like the US one. Once you’re through, I then had to approach a police immigration line and show my passport AGAIN to get to the gate. If you’re in the A gates at terminal 1, get food or coffee or whatever you need before you walk to the A section. It’s quiet there with a lot less available.
If you check your bag and have a connecting flight in the US to make, you will need to pick up your bag at the US entry point to go through customs. They expect you to claim your souvenirs, etc. You can find the rules on what they’re looking for on cbp dot org if you plan on claiming anything.
Masks are no longer required in the Madrid airport (the recording they play is that they recommend it) but all the employees are wearing them. Generally most people are wearing them when walking through and in crowds, but drop it if they can find a seat that’s not too crowded.
Happy travels home, Camino friends.
When I flew into Madrid in 2017, I had plans to meet up with a pilgrim (we met on a forum first) at the airport. I was on 18 hours of no sleep, had never traveled to Europe, and also had not traveled without my husband in 20 years. I was exhausted and a nervous wreck. I had no idea how to get to t4, and I didn’t know that t 4 couldn’t be reached by the other terminals. I went to the informacion desk. That wasn’t attended but several of us waited until a really rude employee showed up. I was disoriented and trying my best to communicate but didn’t understand what she was saying. She shoved a city map in my face and said in very clear English (that she didn’t use initially to communicate with meI am not flying back, but still felt compelled to post a reply to your amazing post. This is another level of supporting the fellow pilgrim! So much useful information, and the care that comes through. @Eve Alexandra, you have my admiration and respect, and for me, you embody the true spirit of the pilgrim.
Thank you
I was pretty nauseous on the taxi ride to sjpp too but I talked with someone in St Jean who told me she had to ask the driver to pull over twice so she could vomit!Eve, on my first Camino I was also scared stiff at the Madrid airport even though I had my very capable son with me. The airport was so overwhelming, we knew no Spanish and I was overwhelmed. When someone finally directed us to the shuttle, it started going away from the airport at a high speed I was very alarmed and frantic we'd done something wrong.
This is probably my worst memory on any Camino, but it was good to read your story and realize others experience similar things. Btw, my second worse was a taxi ride through the mountains from Pamplona to SJPdP. The young driver thought he was a Nascar driver and I literally feared for my life as he weaved in and out around corners, driving like a maniac and I am not exaggerating.
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