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In Estella, I think

I don´t know if it´s the bad weather or what, but the pathways have been horrible since Valcarlos. Lots of loose rocks, especially on descents, are treacherous. In some places, there is still a lot of mud & muck to be traversed. It is taking even the strongest hours longer than usual to get to the next stop & each town is filling up very quickly.

If you are travelling between Puente La Reina & Estella, and you are almost completely spent by the time you get to Lorca, stay in Lorca! There are 2 albergues there now, right across the street from each other. One called Bodega del Camino & the other I forget the name. Anyway, Bodega will be on your left & the other on your right. I stopped at the one on the right because a friend of mine was already there. It looked very clean & cool. Went upstairs to the bathroom & looked into one of the dorms. Very clean. I believe both refugios offer breakfast & maybe dinner, not sure, 8 Euro for the night, plus food. We pressed on to Estella & are sorry we did. The municipal refugio had no hot water & was very crowded, so 2 of us went to Hostal Cristina. It´s ok, right off the plaza & near a pharmacy. We paid 35 Euro for single rooms (double beds for some reason) en suite.

More later, but I´m very tired now & only going to Irache tomorrow, if that far.

John Brierley 2023 Camino Guide
Get your today and start planning.
Made it to Bodegas de Irache today only to find that 2 busloads of tourists had greedily drunk all the wine for the real pilgrims. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

Then they laughed at us & took pictures like we were Mickey Mouse or Donald Duck at Disneyworld.

I hate it when people take advantage of others´generousity, especially from those who give & can least afford it.

On the bright side, the monastery & surrounds are very peaceful & restorative. One of the nicest places so far & because we could take our time today, I really got to enjoy the scenery. It is beautiful here.

On my way to Irache, an elderly man expressed concern that my friend & I were leaving too late for Los Arcos, but was happy to hear we were only going to Irache. Bless him.

Currently holed up in Hotel de Irache. 62 Euro plus IVA for a single :shock: :shock: :shock: But my feet can´t take any more today & I need to do laundry. I stink.



Active Member
Hello, smelly!

DG, the tourist bus loads irritated a mate of mine a couple of years ago, by asking if they could borrow his pack so they could pose as "real pilgrims".. His response was somewhat impolite.

Ignore em... The wine's horrible anyway! :)


tourists...laughed at us & took pictures...

:lol: Been there...I pose and have fun! Best, xm 8)
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Same for me when a busload of tourists from the Land of the Rising Sun saw me approaching Foncebadon. They all took aim at me with their cameras and their smiles. I smiled back and two of them came to me and asked me (I suppose) if they could stand by my side for a picture... I readily agreed. :lol:

If in Tokyo you see the picture of a weary old pilgrim flanked by 2 sons of Hiro Ito, that's me :roll:
Time of past OR future Camino
2002, Toulouse/Aragon 2005, Cami S Jaume/Aragon 2007/9, Mont Saint Michel/Norte/Vadiniense 2011, Norte/Primitivo 2013, Norte/Primitivo 2014. Norte 2015, Cami S Jaume/Castellano-Aragonese 2016
In 2005 in Irache I encountered a busload of Spanish and German teenagers around the fountain. I announced that I was a peregrino canadiense and made my way through them to the tap, just taking a sip from the cap of my water bottle in what was certainly a vain effort to teach them moderation.

Soaked to the skin that day, I too stopped at the tropo caro Hotel Irache, but its hot water and radiators were quite welcome. At dinner that evening in the cafeteria, I was invited to join a group of Spaniards working for a company attending a course being held there and they made me their guest for the evening, cheerfully covering my meal and a brandy or two afterward. Somehow, my command of the language improved greatly with such tutors.

I fear that I figure in a number of bus-pilgrims' photographs, looking more and more like Quixote without a horse as the days went on.
Well, I´ve calmed down a bit, had a shower & a nap, & ok, the wine tastes bad, but really, it´s meant for those of us who have earned it. :arrow:

As for posing for pics, I don´t mind when politely asked, but laughing & pointing & shooting away, after stealing something that wasn´t meant for you, or asking for someone´s pack so you can pretend to be a ¨real¨pilgrim really take the cake.

Radiators?!?!!!! :idea: :idea: :idea: I think that´s how I´ll get my clothes dry. I washed everything in the sink(s)!!!! & had to wait until some of it was dry enough to wander back downstairs. I don´t think ¨soy una peregrina¨would get me out of walking around starkers at the hotel. :wink:

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