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Irún to Bilbao. How many walking days? Any unmissable experiences?

tommycamino

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
October 2022
Kaixo! I walked the Camino Francés a couple of years ago and had the time of my life. I have finally found time to return to the Camino, or at least a section of it, and decided to walk from Irún to Bilbao in June with some friends. I gather that this is one of the most spectacular weeks on any of the Caminos. Plus I am completely enamoured with the Basque Country, having lived in Bilbao and still having friends there.

Walking days:
My first question is about walking days and I'm sure it's something that has been discussed a lot. We are all quite limited in how much time we can take off work and would like to restrict it to a week. We are all in our early 30s and have walked Caminos previously. Most of the guides, such as Gronze, suggest 7 walking days, with a shorter final day of 11km from Lezama to Bilbao, presumably allowing more time to enjoy Bilbao. Ideally, I would like to finish this in 6 walking days because of time restrictions but we could do 7 walking days but at greater expense. So my questions are as follows:
  • How doable is the Gernika to Bilbao stage in one day (30.8km)? Obviously, the terrain is very different on the Norte to the Francés.
  • If you're on a tight schedule, is it worthwhile doing the Gernika to Bilbao stage in one day?
  • Are there any alternate 6 day itineraries out there? On the Francés I tended to stop in the bigger towns and not mid-stage very often. Also like to avoid getting a bus but might be willing to make an exception.

Unmissable experiences:
I would absolutely love to know about some of the hidden gems of this section. On the Francés I walked past some things like sleeping under the stars at the Monasterio San Antón simply because I didn't know about it. I saw a video from the Norte of someone staying at a monastery. Likewise it would be great to hear of highlights, even on 'the beaten track'.

Eskerrik asko!
 
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Hi

I did that section in the fall of 2022. It was so much fun and the scenery is incredible. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you have clear weather.

You can do it in six days as long as things so smoothly with a caveat. Cut out the section from Larrabetzu to Bilbos. (spell checker has a problem with Bilbos). There isn't much to see on that last section, and it's a bit of a letdown after the other parts of the trail.

Highlights...if the weather is clear, take the ridge route instead of the traditional route on the I-run to San Sebastian stage. The views up there are incredible. On the trail down, the routes rejoin.

The beaches at San Sebastian and Zuaratz are fun to experience. If it's too cool to swim, spend some time on the promenades at each.

Museum at Gernika is rumored to be worthwhile, but I missed it.

Bilboa is a beautiful city, very walkable, and you should see the river front and the Guggenheim. I was content to see the outside only of the Guggenheim.

There aren't as many American pilgrims on this section, but that is part of the mystique. There are many people from all over the world in your age demographic, many doing the route you're describing. There are day hikers too. Lots of languages flying around. People are friendly and helpful, although I did meet a waitress around Deba who didn't like Americans or walkers and wasn't afraid to let me know. But she was an outlier.

The terrain can be rugged, lots of ascents and descents. Consider how you'll deal with rain in case you get some.

It's a wonderful adventure. Have fun and good luck.
 
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If you have the time to go inside the Guggenheim I would, if only for the room with the immense steel structures by Richard Senna. They are not only beautifull but you have to experience them. Walking in the structures is really a "physical experience" which made a big impression on me
 
Aside from the splendid beach at Zarautz (take a right through the camping and descend to the beach by a well-graded path), I would also suggest the Bolivar Museum in Bolibar and, a km afterward, the Monasterio de Zenarruza, which also has an albergue and a hospederia. It is only 8km out of Markina/Xemein, but the day into Markina is a toughie, although very scenic and reminiscent of the Bavarian alps. My third suggestion is in Bilbao, where the Guggenheim is one of the finest buildings of the century and well worth a walk around outside, but the collection at the Bellas Artes, just to the north, is an excellent repository of Spanish art of the Alfonsine period, and gives you a picture of Basque society and culture leading up to the Civil War.
 
Kaixo! I walked the Camino Francés a couple of years ago and had the time of my life. I have finally found time to return to the Camino, or at least a section of it, and decided to walk from Irún to Bilbao in June with some friends. I gather that this is one of the most spectacular weeks on any of the Caminos. Plus I am completely enamoured with the Basque Country, having lived in Bilbao and still having friends there.

Walking days:
My first question is about walking days and I'm sure it's something that has been discussed a lot. We are all quite limited in how much time we can take off work and would like to restrict it to a week. We are all in our early 30s and have walked Caminos previously. Most of the guides, such as Gronze, suggest 7 walking days, with a shorter final day of 11km from Lezama to Bilbao, presumably allowing more time to enjoy Bilbao. Ideally, I would like to finish this in 6 walking days because of time restrictions but we could do 7 walking days but at greater expense. So my questions are as follows:
  • How doable is the Gernika to Bilbao stage in one day (30.8km)? Obviously, the terrain is very different on the Norte to the Francés.
  • If you're on a tight schedule, is it worthwhile doing the Gernika to Bilbao stage in one day?
  • Are there any alternate 6 day itineraries out there? On the Francés I tended to stop in the bigger towns and not mid-stage very often. Also like to avoid getting a bus but might be willing to make an exception.

Unmissable experiences:
I would absolutely love to know about some of the hidden gems of this section. On the Francés I walked past some things like sleeping under the stars at the Monasterio San Antón simply because I didn't know about it. I saw a video from the Norte of someone staying at a monastery. Likewise it would be great to hear of highlights, even on 'the beaten track'.

Eskerrik asko!
I walked Gernika to Bilbao, I remember it was really lovely until Larrabetzu and after that it was on unshaded road for 8km or so, it was a little tough because it was a super hot day , but with a hat and water, not too difficult.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
It's all good, just A LOT of up and down. However, if you are walking BEYOND Bilbao you could take the metro to Portugalete. Skip 8 or so km of industry. I have walked both sides of the river. Not exciting. Be sure to walk over or ride the moving steel bridge at Portugalete. Unmissable. Buen Camino
 
I did this stretch in 6 days last summer, it is certainly doable (disclaimer: I am a decently fast walker).

Day 1: Irún to San Sebastián
highly recommend the ridge route out of San Sebastián for the views!
Day 2: Irún to zarautz (I wanted to stay by the beautiful beaches)
Day 3: zarautz to ibiri
I really enjoyed the GR variant through this section—the views of the ocean are some of the most amazing i found on this trip.
Also, the albergue in ibiri serves an amazing menu del día.
Day 4: ibiri to bolivar
Amazing albergue in a monastery!
Day 5: bolivar to Lezama
Long day, but doable
Day 6: Lezama to portugalete
 
I would absolutely love to know about some of the hidden gems of this section.

I think the Ruta del Flysch, between Zumaia and Deba, is about the most beautiful off-camino detour on the Norte (and there are lots of coastal alternatives, see this old thread). It is easy to find and anyone in Zumaia can point you to the trailhead. Some recent discussion of the alternative can be found here.

I also think the Peace Museum in Gernika is well worth a stop. Much of the museum is devoted to the broader issue of world peace, but the part about the German bombing of Gernika is probably the most relevant to people walking through Spain.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
You can divert to Loyola, birthplace of St Ignatius and the onetime seat of the Jesuit sect! Nice town, beautiful church, and gorgeous countryside. No real pilgrim support, but plenty of small casa rurals, hostels, and hotels on the route.
 

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