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Is this the loveliest thing in Spain?

alansykes

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Except the Francés
Probably not, but today in Soria I was astonished at the beauty of the semi-ruined cloisters of the former Templar monastery of San Juan de Duero. The site, just by a mediaeval bridge over the Duero out of town, the modest size and the amazing mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Mudéjar - just wonderful. It's now up in my top ten Spanish sights, mostly encountered on the camino, alongside the Mezquita in Córdoba, the riverscape at Zamora, the Visigothic Santa Lucía del Trampal in Extremadura, the Patio de las Doncellas at the Alcázar in Seville, the view down onto Segovia from the Puerto de la Fuenfría, the twin cathedrals at Salamanca, the Roman theatre at Mérida, the walls at Ávila, El Greco's view down onto Toledo from the south and, oh bother, that's 10 already and I haven't even got to Galicia.

 
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And you've yet to discover other wonderful sights on caminos like San Juan de la Peña monastery on the camino catalán por S. Juan de la Peña (and close enough to the camino aragonés as to visit it as a detour so you can visit it from 2 caminos)...

Soria is truly a much-ignored treasure chest!

Indeed! Not only the city of Soria but also its province has some great hidden gems (both arquitectonic and natural).
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Maybe the most famous but in Spain, but there are many treasures (not of money or gold) hidden in rural areas. Search "CIENLEGUASALAREDONDA"
 
And another one to add to my top 10, this serene and simple little beauty is the pre-Romanesque San Salvador de Valdediós (893AD), in the part of Spain never conquered by the Moors, near where the Primitivo splits from the Norte a few hours from Villaviciosa.

 
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I have only been to one of your two selections, but am looking forward to visiting San Juan de Duero in June when I trace your footsteps on the Ruta del Ebro! I do think Valdedios is one of the most beautiful peaceful places in Spain. Nestled there in the valley, it it just amazing that it sits there unscathed and without development all around it, except for the Monastery nearby. Alan, I forgot to ask you this -- when I was in Valdedios years ago, they told us the monastery was sinking because of the high water table. Do you know if it's been stabilized?
 
when I was in Valdedios years ago, they told us the monastery was sinking because of the high water table. Do you know if it's been stabilized?

The slightly melancholy young guide didn't mention sinking, but he did say the archbishopric hopes to put monks back in the place, and they've managed to secure some quite significant EU and government grants for restoration work, so it sounds as if they've not given up yet.
 

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