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Just finished the Aragones

Discussion in 'Camino Aragonés' started by frida1, Jun 7, 2017.

  1. frida1

    frida1 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2014
    Messages:
    126
    Likes Received:
    164
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances April 11-May 11 2014
    My partner and I just returned to the US after completing the Chemin d'Arles, and the Aragones to Puente la Reina. This camino is very quiet, and in most areas very beautiful. We had dry weather going over Somport Pass and for the remainder of the camino. We did have some very hot days that made the walk more difficult. We had left very adequate time so we took a full 10 days starting at Somport. Most of the camino is on path, very little on road.
    Day 1 Somport to Canfranc Estacion. 7 k. After climbing to the pass the day before we opted to stay at Canfranc Estacion. I'm glad we did. It's a lovely place and I enjoyed the 3 Euro tour of the station, learning the history. They light the station at night in changing colors. We stayed at Casa Marieta and had dinner at one of two open restaurants in town.
    Day 2 Canfranc Estacion to Jaca. 28 k, 370 m climbing. Was a pretty long day, with services available at Canfranc and Villanua. Beautiful walk.
    Day 3 rest day in Jaca. We took the bus to Juan de la Pena. The bus goes at 9:30, but not every day. The days vary, the tourist office will call and find out if the bus is going. After visiting the monastery, we walked the trail down to the main road and hitched a ride back to Jaca. For those wanting to walk this variant, the trail from the monastery to Santa Cruz de la Seros is very steep, exposed and slippery. The old monastery is stunning and the town of Santa Cruz is beautiful.
    Day 4 Jaca to Santa Celia 17 k, 100 m climbing. This is a very easy day, mostly along the river and a little scrubby, not particularly scenic. Santa Celia is a beautiful village with a nice albergue. There is a bar, a restaurant near the campground by the river, and a panaderia with delicious wood oven baked bread. No other services available.
    Day 5 Santa Celia - Artieda 34 k, 400 m climbing. This is a beautiful highland walk, with views of hilltop villages. The town of Arres, at 10 k, offers an albergue, but otherwise there are no services until you arrive at Artieda. The albergue at Artieda serves dinner and breakfast, otherwise no other services seem to be available.
    Day 6 Artieda - Undues de Lerda 25 k, 580 m climbing. Undues has an albergue with a bar/restaurant. There is also a casa rural with all amenities including kitchen. No other services in the village. The walk is stunning, another stunning highland walk, and partly through forest, passing the ruined town of Ruesta, which has an albergue. The Embalsa de Yesa is visible during large portions of the walk.
    Day 7 Undues de Lerda - Sanguesa 14 k, 100 m climbing. There is an albergue in Sanguesa, but it was full. We stayed at the other option, a hotel called Yamaguchi, about 1 k uphill outside town. It's very adequate, and has a restaurant. Sanguesa has some beautiful churches and was a good place to spend an afternoon. There is no foodstore between Jaca and Sanguesa, so we stocked up on food, having used everything in the last 4 days.
    Day 8 Sanguesa - Izco 22 k, 585 m climbing. There are no services at Izco, and the albergue was closed, at least for now. We could have walked on to Monreal, but it was very hot. We found a casa rural (listed in the Miam Miam Do Do) in a nearby village and the owner came to pick us up, and returned us to Izco the following day.
    Day 9 -Izco - Tiebas, 25 k, 485 m climbing. More stunning scenery. Monreal has an albergue, and is on the way. There is a cafe. Tiebas has 2 albergues. We stayed at Albergue de los Sabios, and found it very nice. The bar/restaurant is across from Sabios. There is no food store.
    Day 10 Tiebas - Puente la Reina,21 k, 205 m climbing. This walk took us by Iglesia Santa Maria de Eunate. Well worth a visit.

    Challenges on this camino include a real lack of services. You need to plan ahead to know how much food to carry, and which villages have lodging. Tourist offices in Jaca and Sanguesa can advise you, or hospitaleros call ahead to check. Taxis are available, and there is bus service between some places.

    Others probably know more about it than me, but it seems to me that this camino might be dying due to a lack of pilgrims. It's nice to have the quiet, but more might travel it if food and lodging was a little more available. Also, the planned raising of the Embalsa will put some of it under water. If more traveled the camino, that decision might be changed. These are only my impressions, I don't know a lot of facts about these issues. We met very few other pilgrims, perhaps 8.
     
  2. biarritzdon

    biarritzdon Veteran Member Donating Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2012
    Messages:
    1,744
    Likes Received:
    3,688
    Location:
    Biarritz and Naples
    Camino(s) past & future:
    CF 2011, CF 2012, CP 2013, CF 2014, CA 2015, S. Anton 2015, CF 2015, CI 2015
    Ditch Pig 2016, CF (2017)
    I did a similar itinerary early in June 2015, when I started in Oloron and walked to Logrono. I would share similar comments regarding the blessing and the curse of lack of pilgrims and services. In my case I ran out of cash because of a lack of ATM's (I failed to do a w/d in Jaca because I was unaware there were no ATM's along the way) and I had to bail out around Artieda and take a bus to Pamplona and completed my walk from there. The Aragones is a lovely walk and seeing Canfranc Estacion, San Juan de la Pena and Eunate is a priceless experience.
     
  3. KinkyOne

    KinkyOne Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Messages:
    3,784
    Likes Received:
    3,851
    Location:
    Ljubljana, Slovenia
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Frances ('09, '11 - entire, '14, '16),
    Finisterre ('11, '16),
    Madrid ('14),
    Invierno ('14),
    Levante ('15+'??),
    Sanabres ('14, '15 - entire),
    Muxia ('15),
    Bayona ('16),
    Salvador ('16),
    Ingles ('16)...
    I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
    On Caminos like this (we liked to call them less-walked caminos) you always have to prepare yourself in form of accommodation/ATMs/shops etc. Then and only then you can wing it otherwise you'll have a problem (and not only you) sooner or later. Seems like you did just OK, heh...

    Haven't walked that route myself but have seen many beautiful photos of it. And I wish to congratulate you accomplishing your walk :)
     
  4. Anniesantiago

    Anniesantiago Veteran Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2008
    Messages:
    6,410
    Likes Received:
    6,363
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Frances 2006,9,11,12,13,14, 16, Aragones 2011,12,
    VDLP 2011, 13, Lourdes 2012, Portuguese 2008, Madrid 2014, (2016)
    One of my favorite routes.
     
    SafariGirl and SabineP like this.
  5. IngridF

    IngridF Active Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2012
    Messages:
    365
    Likes Received:
    637
    Location:
    Markham (northeast of Toronto) Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    CF September/October 2012
    July 2015 C. Portugues - Porto
    Hospitalera in Zamora July 15 - 31 2015
    August 2015 Camino Sanabres - Ourense
    Hospitalera in Miraz August 12 - 27 2015
    September 2015: Camino Inglese, Fisterra and Muxia
    2017: C. Aragones via Lourdes May 26 - June 13
    Options: Invierno or Salvador or meeting up with Camino friends walking CF
    July 1 - 15 2017 Volunteer Pilgrims Office Santiago!
    July 16- 31 Hospitalera in Grado
    August: Camino Primitivo
    I am on it and I am walking with a group..total 9..so no albergues that will accommodate. So even with reservations. ..long distances.. you need to carry lots of water... no fountains. .. don't expect that. It is not an easy walk.
     
    KinkyOne likes this.
  6. KinkyOne

    KinkyOne Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Messages:
    3,784
    Likes Received:
    3,851
    Location:
    Ljubljana, Slovenia
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Frances ('09, '11 - entire, '14, '16),
    Finisterre ('11, '16),
    Madrid ('14),
    Invierno ('14),
    Levante ('15+'??),
    Sanabres ('14, '15 - entire),
    Muxia ('15),
    Bayona ('16),
    Salvador ('16),
    Ingles ('16)...
    I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
    Hi, Ingrid,

    Wish you all 9 a beautiful Camino!
     
    IngridF likes this.

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