Lisbon to Tomar In Short Stages

[nickbennison]

Just got back from first stage of Portuguese Camino (commenced 1st Jan) having done the Porto- Santiago stretch a couple of times.
Had a great time. It was very quiet, we never saw any other pilgrims, the weather was OK - a couple of rainy days but mainly dry/sunny/17 degrees and the route was well marked. A few cafes/bars were closed but people were happy to open their accommodation for us.
For the first few days we stayed in Lisbon near Railway Station Santa Apolonia

Day 1. Lisbon Cathedral to Sacavem. 8 miles
Train back to Lisbon. Hourly, €1.25

Day 2. Train to Sacavem. Walk to Alverca do Ribatejo. 10 miles
Train back to Lisbon. €1.55

Day 3. Train to Alverca. Walk to Castanheira. 10 miles
Train back to Lisbon €2.15
Last part of walk was along a busy road with barriers. May have been better to carry on to Carregado (1.5 miles) where there is a cafe next to station

Day 4. Train to Castanheira. Walk to Azambuja. 8 miles
Stayed at Ouro Hotel. €40 for a double room with breakfast. Clean and modern
There is a long road leading to Azambuja with a busy truck stop cafe at the start of it and a fish restaurant half way (expensive). We had a 3 course meal at Ouro at the end of the road for €7.50 with wine which did the job!

Day 5. Azambuja - Porto de Muge. 10 miles
Stayed at the delightful Quinta da Marchanta €15 each. Room in a large country house to ourselves
Decent cafe/bar round the corner 5 minutes away (not in Brierley book)

Day 6. Porto - Santarem. 10 miles
Stayed at the Hotel Vitoria. €45 for a double room but €38 if you book it on booking.com
Not great and a long way from the station but a fantastic restaurant just round the corner. Brasao da Cidade

Day 7. Santarem - Vale de Figuera. 7 miles
Unfortunately, St James Gate at Porta do Sol was locked so we had to walk back into town so it was probably nearer 10 miles
Train back to Santarem. €1.40. Taxi to hotel €5
Another night at Vitoria

Day 8. Taxi to railway station. €5. Train to Vale de Figuera. Walk to Azinhaga. 8 miles
Stayed at Casa de Azzancha. Well signposted. It was closed but a quick phone call to the lovely Helena and 10 minutes later she arrived and opened it for us. €20 per person in a 4 bed room with great breakfast. Beer in fridge and honesty box. Cafes and bars nearby
Yellow arrows seemed a bit vague today and we walked further than planned

Day 9. Azinhaga - Golega. 5 miles
Stayed at Albergue Solo Duro. Private 4 bed room with sheets, etc. €15 per person with simple breakfast
Well recommended
Plenty of nice bars in town

Day 10. Golega - Atalaia. 7 miles
Casa do Patriarca. €40 for a beautiful double room with breakfast in another magnificent house
Bar and restaurant (a bit pricey) nearby
Again, the owners were not on site but a quick phone call and all was sorted

Day 11. Atalaia - Tomar. 12 miles
Should have ignored yellow arrows - they took us on a big loop, still on busy roads. Just follow railway line. We saw a sign for Tomar saying 7 km and we must have walked double that!
Stayed at Conde de Ferreira Palace. A lovely old farmhouse with super friendly owners
€30 for a lovely, big room for 2 (not en suite) and €5 each for the best breakfast
Tomar is a great place and well worth stopping for a couple of days to visit the monastery, etc or go to Fatima for the day - 1 hour on the bus
Great Medieval restaurant which apparently does a pilgrims menu (we found out on leaving)

Train back to Lisbon. 2 hours. €10
Home

Watch out for part 2, Tomar to Porto in March

 

[peregrina2000]

Great resource, I will have to compare it to the "short stages" document in the Resources section, because I think you came up with a few new creative ideas!
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/short-stages-from-lisbon-to-porto.133/

Nick, would you weigh in on the "should we start in Lisbon" debate? I know a lot of pilgrims have the impression that Lisbon to Porto is not a good idea, though many of us would disagree. But I think it always helps to have recent pilgrims add their opinion to this debate. Thanks and bom caminho, Laurie

 

[amorfati1]

Just got back from first stage of Portuguese Camino (commenced 1st Jan) having done the Porto- Santiago stretch a couple of times.
Had a great time. It was very quiet, we never saw any other pilgrims, the weather was OK - a couple of rainy days but mainly dry/sunny/17 degrees and the route was well marked. A few cafes/bars were closed but people were happy to open their accommodation for us.
For the first few days we stayed in Lisbon near Railway Station Santa Apolonia

Day 1. Lisbon Cathedral to Sacavem. 8 miles
Train back to Lisbon. Hourly, €1.25

Day 2. Train to Sacavem. Walk to Alverca do Ribatejo. 10 miles
Train back to Lisbon. €1.55

Day 3. Train to Alverca. Walk to Castanheira. 10 miles
Train back to Lisbon €2.15
Last part of walk was along a busy road with barriers. May have been better to carry on to Carregado (1.5 miles) where there is a cafe next to station

Day 4. Train to Castanheira. Walk to Azambuja. 8 miles
Stayed at Ouro Hotel. €40 for a double room with breakfast. Clean and modern
There is a long road leading to Azambuja with a busy truck stop cafe at the start of it and a fish restaurant half way (expensive). We had a 3 course meal at Ouro at the end of the road for €7.50 with wine which did the job!

Day 5. Azambuja - Porto de Muge. 10 miles
Stayed at the delightful Quinta da Marchanta €15 each. Room in a large country house to ourselves
Decent cafe/bar round the corner 5 minutes away (not in Brierley book)

Day 6. Porto - Santarem. 10 miles
Stayed at the Hotel Vitoria. €45 for a double room but €38 if you book it on booking.com
Not great and a long way from the station but a fantastic restaurant just round the corner. Brasao da Cidade

Day 7. Santarem - Vale de Figuera. 7 miles
Unfortunately, St James Gate at Porta do Sol was locked so we had to walk back into town so it was probably nearer 10 miles
Train back to Santarem. €1.40. Taxi to hotel €5
Another night at Vitoria

Day 8. Taxi to railway station. €5. Train to Vale de Figuera. Walk to Azinhaga. 8 miles
Stayed at Casa de Azzancha. Well signposted. It was closed but a quick phone call to the lovely Helena and 10 minutes later she arrived and opened it for us. €20 per person in a 4 bed room with great breakfast. Beer in fridge and honesty box. Cafes and bars nearby
Yellow arrows seemed a bit vague today and we walked further than planned

Day 9. Azinhaga - Golega. 5 miles
Stayed at Albergue Solo Duro. Private 4 bed room with sheets, etc. €15 per person with simple breakfast
Well recommended
Plenty of nice bars in town

Day 10. Golega - Atalaia. 7 miles
Casa do Patriarca. €40 for a beautiful double room with breakfast in another magnificent house
Bar and restaurant (a bit pricey) nearby
Again, the owners were not on site but a quick phone call and all was sorted

Day 11. Atalaia - Tomar. 12 miles
Should have ignored yellow arrows - they took us on a big loop, still on busy roads. Just follow railway line. We saw a sign for Tomar saying 7 km and we must have walked double that!
Stayed at Conde de Ferreira Palace. A lovely old farmhouse with super friendly owners
€30 for a lovely, big room for 2 (not en suite) and €5 each for the best breakfast
Tomar is a great place and well worth stopping for a couple of days to visit the monastery, etc or go to Fatima for the day - 1 hour on the bus
Great Medieval restaurant which apparently does a pilgrims menu (we found out on leaving)

Train back to Lisbon. 2 hours. €10
Home

Watch out for part 2, Tomar to Porto in March

Well done - and thanks for sharing.
it's always a bit perplexing to me to here the wail and whinge about those long stages from Lisboa until Porto - in my experience, entirely based on blind faith to the B-guide (who doesn't even recommend that sort of blind faith himself!)
you stayed at some fine places.....how lovely.
especially happy to hear you experienced the Quinta da Marchanta - Graca is a most kind host and very helpful. Stayed there twice - on my way to SdC and one my way back to Lisboa. Same with the Santarem Hostel.
Casa do Patriarca is another fine place with very kind hosts.
thanks for the pointer to the farmhouse in Tomar - will check that one out the next time. Tomar is a gem. truly.

best wishes for a marvelous continuation in March --
bom caminho!
C

 

[nickbennison]

I've walked Porto to Santiago twice, inland and coast and to be honest I enjoyed this Lisbon section just as much but in different ways
And as a way of doing part of a Camino in mid winter I do not think it could be bettered (although I am open to persuasion)!

 

[cj2003]

Thanks for the good notes - it's great to read that you had pleasant camino!

I've added and modified a bit in https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...df-route-portugues-route-monacal-coastal.404/ with your good info.

And we might se each other in March...

 

[santaremhostel]

Very sorry to know your experience in Hotel Vitoria (Santarém) there are rumors that they fix the price according to guest face ;(
Probably, it might be true. Beware! There are more options to sleep cheaper in Santarem. Visit the Via Lusitana site here: www.vialusitana.org
Also a small pilgrim albergue in Santa Casa just on the roundabout where you can sleep for only 6€ limited to one night only.

 

[Magwood]

I can wholeheartedly recommend staying at Santarem Hostel, you will get s fabulous welcome and can choose accommodation to suit - private or small shared dorm.

 

[amsimoes]

Albertinho
If I have chance on a weekend we can do two stages together the Caminho do Mar?
AMSimoes

 

[santaremhostel]

Hi Albert
Good news!!
Yes, please let me know as soon as possible the arrival date to reserve a room for you both.
Bom Caminho
Mario

 

[santaremhostel]

"...
Day 7. Santarem - Vale de Figuera. 7 miles
Unfortunately, St James Gate at Porta do Sol was locked so we had to walk back into town so it was probably nearer 10 miles
Train back to Santarem. €1.40. Taxi to hotel €5
Another night at Vitoria ...."

Nick. The St. James Gateway near Portas do Sol has no lock It is a open Gateway in the old castle wall.
I think you were at Portas do Sol Garden Gate.

 

[Casa _de_Azzancha]

Great resource, I will have to compare it to the "short stages" document in the Resources section, because I think you came up with a few new creative ideas!
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/short-stages-from-lisbon-to-porto.133/

Nick, would you weigh in on the "should we start in Lisbon" debate? I know a lot of pilgrims have the impression that Lisbon to Porto is not a good idea, though many of us would disagree. But I think it always helps to have recent pilgrims add their opinion to this debate. Thanks and bom caminho, Laurie

Hi Nick!!! Thank you for the recommendation, and for visit us in Casa de Azzancha!!
Have a good Camino!!

PS. Love your photo.... is Golega right?