My first one: Portuguese or Primitivo

[JanneVi]

Hi all,

My first post here!

I will start my first Camino on 17 September, but I have not yet made up my mind between Portuguese (inner route) or Primitivo. Frances could also be an option, but I am afraid I might find it too crowded and "touristic" and therefore I have excluded it for now from my considerations. I will have 12 days for walking, so in case of Portuguese I would start from Porto and in case of Primitivo from Oviedo, planning to walk till Santiago in either case. Now, I need some help to make up my mind:

- roads: which one has more trails and paths in the nature? I would like to avoid being too much nearby traffic and cars.
- scenery: which one you would rank more beautiful (I like high hills, greenery and rural environment)?
- historical sites: which one has more to offer in terms of history and culture?
- navigation: which one is easier to navigate (I will be alone, so would not like to get lost too badly)?
- other pilgrims: whilst I enjoy my own silence, I still would not like to be completely alone all the way till Santiago. How much other pilgrims I could expect to see, is there much difference between these two routes?
- albergues: is there much difference in how easy it is to find albergues? Do I need to book in advance or will there always be some free places at this time of the year?
- physicality: I believe Primitivo is more physical as it is more hilly and slightly longer, but in the end is there much difference between the two (I am in my forties and in good shape, and I do not want this to be too easy).
- leisure time: from the planned stages I have seen here it seems Portuguese would probably take 1-2 days less than Primitivo. Is there a lot to see in Santiago? Would you recommend spending there 1-2 days before returning home (I might have this option in case of Portuguese only)?
- language: I do not speak Spanish, so is there any difference in how well people speak English along these routes?
- any other points to consider?

Sorry for shooting with all these questions (and I do understand there is no right or wrong answers in many cases, just different preferences) but I would be really happy to have some views from you more experienced travelers.

Regards,
Janne

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I have not walked the Interior, but the Central, in Portugal, but I can tell you that the Primitivo is a delight, although hilly and a work out. In 12 days you will have no option but to walk the typically guidebook recommended etapas.

When it comes to cities with history and a bit of site seing of interest it has Oviedo and Lugo, other small towns with something to enjoy are Salas, A Fonsgrada, Tineo if you push it.

Albergues are easy to find, get a copy of the Cicerone guide or use the onlune guides like Eroski, Gronze, etc.

The Primitivo is becoming quite popular, so you will find lots of other people at the albergue but will walk alone, unless you want to join someone. Albergues can fill up in Borres (but you can't reserve) as well as in Berducedo (you can reserve). But if you arrive mid-afternoon you are normally ok, it's those walking suoer long distances and who waltz in in the evening that may have more trouble.

Bring your walking poles. And yes, a day or two in Santiago is well worth it, especially the guided tour of the cathedral roof, if you are not afraid of heights.

 

[Thornley]

Pushing it with 12 days on Primitivo
Especially on first camino,
Many things eventuate that make the Camino something special , thus have some days spare.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

This is a fun site to see what stages you could have based on certain criteria.

http://www.urcamino.com/planner/camino-primitivo

 

[JanneVi]

This is a fun site to see what stages you could have based on certain criteria.

http://www.urcamino.com/planner/camino-primitivo

This looks wonderful tool. Many thanks for the tip!

 

[JanneVi]

Pushing it with 12 days on Primitivo
Especially on first camino,
Many things eventuate that make the Camino something special , thus have some days spare.

Thanks, you may well be right. Given my time limitation (two weeks vacation), perhaps I should then aim to push a bit longer each day to save 1-2 days for resting in the end.

 

[JanneVi]

I have not walked the Interior, but the Central, in Portugal, but I can tell you that the Primitivo is a delight, although hilly and a work out. In 12 days you will have no option but to walk the typically guidebook recommended etapas.

When it comes to cities with history and a bit of site seing of interest it has Oviedo and Lugo, other small towns with something to enjoy are Salas, A Fonsgrada, Tineo if you push it.

Albergues are easy to find, get a copy of the Cicerone guide or use the onlune guides like Eroski, Gronze, etc.

The Primitivo is becoming quite popular, so you will find lots of other people at the albergue but will walk alone, unless you want to join someone. Albergues can fill up in Borres (but you can't reserve) as well as in Berducedo (you can reserve). But if you arrive mid-afternoon you are normally ok, it's those walking suoer long distances and who waltz in in the evening that may have more trouble.

Bring your walking poles. And yes, a day or two in Santiago is well worth it, especially the guided tour of the cathedral roof, if you are not afraid of heights.

Many thanks for all these tips.

Good to know that there are also many others around and that finding accommodation without booking should not be an issue.

Walking poles ... I did not have those yet on my list but these could indeed make the walking more comfortable.

I start to incline towards Primitivo, although I may need to push there harder than in Portugal. Perhaps aiming for 30-35km per day to have at least one rest day in Santiago. Time will tell if my legs and body agree to that.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Time will tell if my legs and body agree to that.

Instead of spending a lot of money to get to the starting point of your camino in order to test that issue, why not take some hikes with your backpack and test it at home? You really do not want to discover anything new on the camino except the scenery, food, and people. It is the wrong place to discover that a poncho leaks, boots don't fit, or that you cannot walk more than 20km in a day with a backpack!! You will be setting out to hike more than a half-marathon a day for two weeks with a pack and roommates who may interrupt your sleep cycle. I suggest that you may not want to treat it too casually.

The Camino Primitivo is in the top tier of difficulty. Last year 55 pilgrims arrived per day on the Primitivo in September, but only 20 a day in October (you will be on the cusp, so it is hard to guess more exactly than that). It could be quiet and a bit lonely. If you are pressing ahead at a pace faster than the other pilgrims, it will be difficult to have more than a passing relationship with them. One of the notable features of the Camino Frances is that bicyclists and walkers are ships passing in the night, rarely sharing more than a single dinner with anyone in the other group. One person's "touristy" is another person's companionship.

Buen camino.

 

[JanneVi]

Instead of spending a lot of money to get to the starting point of your camino in order to test that issue, why not take some hikes with your backpack and test it at home? You really do not want to discover anything new on the camino except the scenery, food, and people. It is the wrong place to discover that a poncho leaks, boots don't fit, or that you cannot walk more than 20km in a day with a backpack!! You will be setting out to hike more than a half-marathon a day for two weeks with a pack and roommates who may interrupt your sleep cycle. I suggest that you may not want to treat it too casually.

The Camino Primitivo is in the top tier of difficulty. Last year 55 pilgrims arrived per day on the Primitivo in September, but only 20 a day in October (you will be on the cusp, so it is hard to guess more exactly than that). It could be quiet and a bit lonely. If you are pressing ahead at a pace faster than the other pilgrims, it will be difficult to have more than a passing relationship with them. One of the notable features of the Camino Frances is that bicyclists and walkers are ships passing in the night, rarely sharing more than a single dinner with anyone in the other group. One person's "touristy" is another person's companionship.

Buen camino.

You are absolutely right about the training. I just bought new trekking shoes and socks that I am planning to wear on my Camino, and will start testing those and my fitness for walking long-distance next week-end. I do other sports and fitness stuff, but I do realize that walking this long day after day is its own art and one's general fitness does not necessary translate to enjoyable Camino. I still need to buy also a proper backpack (not yet quite decided about which one to buy), so that I need to add later. Thanks for providing the numbers on the pilgrims last year, that gives a good sense of how it will most likely be there!

 

[Thornley]

Many thanks for all these tips.

Good to know that there are also many others around and that finding accommodation without booking should not be an issue.

Walking poles ... I did not have those yet on my list but these could indeed make the walking more comfortable.

I start to incline towards Primitivo, although I may need to push there harder than in Portugal. Perhaps aiming for 30-35km per day to have at least one rest day in Santiago. Time will tell if my legs and body agree to that.

You are getting into a very dangerous area stating 30 plus km per day on the Primitivo
Not sure of your age but we saw many young and experienced pilgrims having a rest day as early as Grandas.
As Falcon has previously indicated this is one of the " Hardest" Caminos available.

 

[JanneVi]

Thornley, thanks for the warning. Yes, I will try to test my long-distance walking with the gear as much as possible before leaving. If it looks too much, then I need to still consider scheduling rest days or then changing to Camino Portugues from Porto or Camino Francais from Leon to Santiago (I have not booked flights yet).

 

[Anemone del Camino]

If it looks too much, then I need to still consider scheduling rest days or then changing to Camino Portugues from Porto or Camino Francais from Leon to Santiago (I have not booked flights yet).

Or ... do you want to walk into Santiago? If not take your time, walk from Oviedo to As Seixas (do not enter Melide or risk going into shock) and call it a day. You will have enjoyed the beauty and challenge of the Primitivo, and avoided the mayhem.

 

[Thornley]

Thornley, thanks for the warning. Yes, I will try to test my long-distance walking with the gear as much as possible before leaving. If it looks too much, then I need to still consider scheduling rest days or then changing to Camino Portugues from Porto or Camino Francais from Leon to Santiago (I have not booked flights yet).

Good ,
The problem is mate it's not just testing it for one day , it's every bloody day for 2 weeks and as Falcon said , with no sleep half the time
Then add a night with like minded friends you met that day that went tooooo long and your schedule is goner
Over the last 10 years we have had plans , we stuffed up this year as the weather was 35c plus and had to have short days
The Primitivo has been known to be misty and rainy
Don't think I'm completely negative , I'm the opposite , just don't want you to waste money , time and be disappointed when you see others near the end cruising into Santiago , usually by bus or taxi
Good luck and as Ane said from Melide on is bedlam but we are unaware of your motive
Ex ;
We never stop at Santiago only Muxia
Then we return to Santiago for a few days rest before transit
Regardless of your choice you will return for many more,
Buen Camino

 

[Kiwi-family]

The Primitivo fits your bill in terms of beauty, more trails etc.
But if you only have 12 days it might be better to do the Portuguese from Porto (where, incidentally MUCH more English is spoken, there are so many arrows it's like doing a join-the-dots picture and it's easier walking)
You could count that as your training walk and save the Primitivo for later when you can take a bit more time (if possible add an extra week and start in Leon, doing the San Salvador first) - that would really be something to look forward to.

 

[JanneVi]

Or ... do you want to walk into Santiago? If not take your time, walk from Oviedo to As Seixas (do not enter Melide or risk going into shock) and call it a day. You will have enjoyed the beauty and challenge of the Primitivo, and avoided the mayhem.

Yes, this could be one option, thanks for the tip. One the other hand, as this is my first Camino, I would not mind to experience also the mayhem by end of the trip to know how it is there

 

[JanneVi]

The Primitivo fits your bill in terms of beauty, more trails etc.
But if you only have 12 days it might be better to do the Portuguese from Porto (where, incidentally MUCH more English is spoken, there are so many arrows it's like doing a join-the-dots picture and it's easier walking)
You could count that as your training walk and save the Primitivo for later when you can take a bit more time (if possible add an extra week and start in Leon, doing the San Salvador first) - that would really be something to look forward to.

Thanks, I did not know that there is more English on Portuguese, I thought it was the other way round. In Portuguese from Porto I am slightly concerned about the scenery, as I have read some people telling that there isn't really that much to see on that road. If you can prove that wrong then I might still switch as I see so many people here warning me that my planning is too ambiguous (which it might well be).

 

[Kiwi-family]

. In Portuguese from Porto I am slightly concerned about the scenery, as I have read some people telling that there isn't really that much to see on that road. If you can prove that wrong then I might still switch as I see so many people here warning me that my planning is too ambiguous (which it might well be).

I'm currently in Australia but when I get back home I'll post some pics and you can decide for yourself. There is no doubt the Primitivo is more spectacular, but unless you can wrangle a few more days, I do think you'd have a better experience on the Portuguese this time.