My way...thoughts on the Primitivo

[AldenPyle52]

Camino Primitivo

I recently completed the Camino Primitivo. I am an older (65), reasonably fit, regular walker (although on the flatlands of New York City). The weather varied from cool and raining (lots of rain) in the upper 50’s (f) to sunny 90 degrees. A fair amount of road walking at the start then largely secondary roads, cow paths and some trails. Beautiful but lots of elevation changes.

Some days there were no restaurants open (day one for example there was only 1 between Oviedo and Grado); there are NO services at all on the Hospitales route (Day 5). Alleged vending machines are sometimes locked, broken or non-existent (make sure you have change) Pack water and snacks. I alternated from albergues (mixed reviews) to single rooms (ditto). I enjoyed the peregrino meal most days, coffee and tostada in the mornings, and packed bocadillos de jamon for the road along with platanos (bananas) and cliff bars.

There were days when I saw one person (this region of Spain is somewhat remote in many areas and depopulated). Joining the Frances route in Melide was a bit of a shock but Santiago itself was very beautiful, obviously touristic and overcrowded. People waited 2 ½ hours for their certificates (hint: go before it opens – even then there is a line but shorter). I’ve trekked and hiked a lot and its doubtful I would do another one (although some folks are on their 10th or 20th!) Met incredibly kind people on the Way and I suppose that is the meaning of the Camino; I went for religious reasons and spiritual ones and found the spirit of God and goodness in the kindness of the pilgrims – on the Primitivo at least.

My kilometers may be off slightly but here is my itinerary. I hope its helpful. An * means I enjoyed it a lot – good value. Happy to provide other details. Buen Camino

1- Oviedo to Grado (24km) Albuergue de Peregrinos, (donativo) includes breakfast. Lots of restaurants, local bars and two supermarkets.

2- Grado-Salas (25km) Hotel Soto, 18 Euro -single room. local supermarket, Bar Berlin breakfast (en route stopped at Bar Casino for excellent bocadillos)

3- Salas-Tineo ((19km) Albuergue Mater Cristi,* 5 Euro donativo, coffee machine. Cafeteria Restaurant nearby/markets.

4- Tineo-Campiello (13km) Casa Ricardo (25 Euro – single room)*, Dinner, Breakfast Hermina

5- Campiello-Berducedo (31km) Albuergue Camino Primitivo *(5 Euro) Great dinner- 9 Euro

6- Berducedo-Grandas de Salime (20km) La Barra hotel (35E-single room)

7- Grandas de Salime-Fonsagrada (26km) (Albergue Cantabrico (10 euro), vending machines; dinner Restaurant Cantabrico 9-15 Euro; many coffee shops and bars

8- Fonsagrada-O Cadavo, (22km) Hotel Eligio (20 euro-single room) 9 Euro dinner, 4 euro breakfast. Unfriendly, poor meals.

9- O Cadavo-Lugo, (31km) Hotel Espana (27 euro-single room); nice owners – drunken guests both nights – sadly 4 Euro breakfast

10- Lugo (visit the Cathedral, get the stamp, see the Sacristy and fascinating history)

11- Lugo-Ferreira (25km) Albergue A Nava* (35 euro – single room) 10 E Paella dinner; 4 euro breakfast (great vibe and ownership)

12- Ferreira-Melide (21km) Albergue Alfonso (25euro – single room), Dinner- Puleria Esquivel 11 E (large noisy groups – mediocre food)

13- Melide-Salcedo (26km) Albergue Alborado (13 euro) – overpriced, no services. Down the street is one of the world’s great local bars – Casa Verde.

14- Salcedo-Lavacolla (17km) Casa Lavacolla,30 euro-single room, many restaurants, one small market open short hours.

15- Lavacolla-Santiago (10km) In Santiago, Hostel Costa Azul (27 euro) , nice owners, dark interior rooms, clean, well located. Many local restaurants; Gato Negro for Pulpo. Day trip to Finisterre and Muxia excellent.

 

[simeon]

thinking of doubt this route in the autumn. It's a little longer than the days I have available was thinking of just doing ovideo to meliede. Do you think that would be possible in 10 days or would that be pushing it. If you only had 10 days would you start at salad tineo and go tom meliede or start at oviedo and see how far you got...

 

[AldenPyle52]

thinking of doubt this route in the autumn. It's a little longer than the days I have available was thinking of just doing ovideo to meliede. Do you think that would be possible in 10 days or would that be pushing it. If you only had 10 days would you start at salad tineo and go tom meliede or start at oviedo and see how far you got...

I'd consider starting in Oviedo . The Hospitales route is the most spectacular walking so I would recommend it. I'm a moderate walker so you could make Melide in ten days. Some people bus and skip towns so if you wanted to get the certificate you could do my first 7 and bus to Sarria, I think, for the last 100 km if that matters.

 

[Tia Valeria]

If you want a shorter Primitivo and a Compostela then starting in Tineo should make it possible even if you go by Pola de Allande rather than Hospitales. The 100km to Santiago mark is at Lugo, which you would have to reach for the bus to Sarria.
If you start at Oviedo you could bus anywhere before Lugo to shorten the time, apart from between Grandas de Salime and A Fonsagrada (no buses). Daily (?) bus between Oviedo and Grandas. There is a little bus 3 times a day between A Fonsagrada and Lugo

 

[alaskadiver]

I'd consider starting in Oviedo . The Hospitales route is the most spectacular walking so I would recommend it. I'm a moderate walker so you could make Melide in ten days. Some people bus and skip towns so if you wanted to get the certificate you could do my first 7 and bus to Sarria, I think, for the last 100 km if that matters.

You should start in Oviedo and do the Hospitales. Get to Fonsagrada and from there you can bus to Lugo and take the train or another bus to wherever you need to go to catch the plane.