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LIVE from the Camino (Nearly) Live Updates Via de la Plata February > Abril 2016



Just arrived into Granja de Morereula from Zamora. A bit long, but no good options. Albergue is fine - no kitchen - you can get an average menu at the bar that holds the key... The owners are rather ungracious, but there is no alternative, I think. They wouldn't give a fellow pilgrim ice for his tendonitis, claiming there wasn't any. In a bar!!!!
 
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... at the bar that holds the key... The owners are rather ungracious, but there is no alternative, I think. They wouldn't give a fellow pilgrim ice for his tendonitis, claiming there wasn't any. In a bar!!!!

That is just sad! Gronze.com shows an alternative accommodation http://www.gronze.com/castilla-y-leon/zamora/granja-moreruela/casa-rural-casa-del-tio-quico Perhaps that is something 'somebody' could check out? Buen Camino and an especially Buen Camino and speedy recovery for your pilgrim friend with tendinitis! SY
 
@SYates what a monumental task! and great that @Kiwi-family made it into a Google doc. Bravo you guys! I am sure that many will appreciate this detailed account, you certainly have taken a lot of time to put it all together.

I haven't gotten through it all but hope to be able to eventually update the list in the resources section with some of the new albergue alternatives.
Question: did you take the accommodation list from the Resource section? And if so, did you find any mistakes or changes? If you get the chance to answer that would be great.

Also a general shout-out to all walking the Plata now and in the coming months: please PM me with accommodation information. I try to keep up with the Plata threads but some may slip by without my reading. As I try to keep the number of pages to a minimum, I have not included Casa Rural information if there are municipals or other albergues in town.

Thanks for your help and Buen Camino to all!
 
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Sending you the updates regarding accommodation info I have found whilst walking is def on my rather long to-do list ;-) SY
 
Hello Hikoi,

Can I ask, why didn't you stay in Montamarta? Were there too many pilgrims?

Paul.
 
Thank you so much for these posts. I will walk Ourense to Santiago in June and this year time is short so I have reserved some accommodation. So I was interested in the Botos accommodation mentioned and phone number ...this place has appeared in a few blogs.
I was thinking of getting the CSJ guide for this walk. Did you have a guide or just follow arrows or BOTH.
I have also read there are 2 ways out of Ourense one to the left one to the right.
Regards Jill
 
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Looking at the CSJ website, their guide to that part of the VdlP seems to be 'a bit' outdated ... I met @geraldkelly in Santiago who just did the VdlP to update his guide, see http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JN8JIQ/?tag=casaivar02-20 That one would be imo the best option for English speakers. Alison Raju was also on the way updating her guide, but no idea when it will come out. I had a German guide with me but also used the Eroski and Gronze websites and apps.

Botos- The nice people in the albergue in Cotelas made the reservation for us, I wrote the following in an earlier post in this thread

"Albergue Botos – There isn't one, but a very friendly hotel restaurant called A Ponte with clean rooms and good food. We got the tip for this hotel from the nice people that run the albergue in Cotelas as otherwise it would have meant walking 30+km, something I really didn't want to contemplate. Anyway, thanks to getting a wee bit lost in the hills above Castro Dozon, I was DOA anyway. For the life of me I can't remember how much I paid, for once I was to tired that evening to make notes, but it was the usual price range for a hotel in that part of Spain (~25 Euros for a single room) and also the tasty menu was between 10 and 12 Euro including wine. An added bonus was that the owner had done the Camino herself and completely understood that pilgrims want not to show their passport(s) first thing but drop the backpack and have a cool glass of something first ;-) Phone numbers for reservation: 986 78 05 62 or 675 897 470 There is also at least one other place in town as far that I could see."

Yes, there is another way out of Ourense, but I haven't walked it, so can't comment on it.

Buen Camino, SY
 

Hi, SYates and Hikoi,

So I now know of two bars in Spain where the owners will not give pilgrims ice, the other one was in the Plaza outside the Cathedral in Logrono. But those odds are awfully good, since I have probably gotten ice from several hundred bars in the last 15 years. I always carry a plastic bag with me (makes it much easier for the bar owner), and order a drink and I am almost always treated quite well.

And yes, I have stayed in Casa del Tio Quico. Owners are great, they gave us beds for 20 euros each. The problem is that the whole house may be rented out, especially on weekends and in summer. In fact, when we arrived on a Sunday, the family was just coming in to clean up after the weekend rental. They were great, and let us sit in the courtyard, while they rushed to finish up a bathroom and bedroom for us. Then while we showered, they finished the kitchen and other rooms. I would highly recommend the place. Laurie
 
In Montamarta tonight... Only 5 of us in the municipal albergue... Weather is perfect... 25 degrees and blue skies.
 
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We're in Merida now and have had no trouble with any of the lack of marking that SYates encountered. In fact, it looks like someone has been through very recently with a tin of yellow paint.
 
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Thank you for the update... I've just bought it and have got page one open and ready!!! I'm so excited, I've already got my pack almost ready even though I don't leave for 17 weeks
 
Hi Sybil, i am reading your account of the Via De La Plata with not so fond memories of one section that you describe. I stayed in Cacares and intended to walk to an Albergue by a lake (can't remember the name) and having got there after negotiating the disruption caused by the new train line construction , i found it closed. It was a very hot day and i had to carry on to Canaveral and i didn't take the road option..ouch!
 

Hi Rosser,

What year was this? In 2012 I also wanted to stay by the lake (I don't remember the name of the albergue but I know which one you're talking about) but another pilgrim went there before me, came back to meet me and reported it was closed. So we all had to move on to Cañaveral. Several days later I met people who had stayed there! The pilgrim that went before me was wrong. She had seen another building, half-way to the lake, and thought that one was the albergue! You sure you didn't ran into the "fake" albergue?

/Bad Pilgrim
 
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It was about the end of April '16. I counted on getting water at the Abergue , which was shut as was a Restaurant/Cafe? adjacent to it and i walked the last 16k to Carnaveral with nothing to drink. I literally staggered into the private Albergue in Carnaveral which was new and very nice.
 

Okay, that's a dangerous area to run out of water... I begged some construction workers for some of their water (they were not keen on it) so I could make it to Cañaveral. I took the road option, very boring but shorter than the official route. Another year I was better prepared with water, but other pilgrims who were walking with me had to be rescued by the Guardia Civil, at almost the same spot, because of heat and lack of water. - New albergue in Cañaveral? Good to know!

/BP
 
I didn't know about the road option and followed the yellow arrows to the hills instead of looking at my map !
I'll be wiser the next time. Well i presumed it was a newish Albergue as it was fresh and clean and the Hosts couldn't have been nicer. Best wishes and happy walking for'17.
Rosser
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.

Thanks! I'd like to repeat the Plata, but during another time of year with other temperatures and scenery than July - ouch. Bye!

/BP
 
We were there end of sept and called the hostal at the lake. It was complete they told us. But we think they don't like to have pilgrims there because we met other pilgrims who needed water and after a lot of time they opened the door and there were no other people. We took the road over the hills and it was beautiful ! We carried each 3l of water ! But we will certainly do it again !
 
I have since heard that the workers on the AVE project have taken over the Albergue, if this is true it leaves a big gap in accomodation possibilities between Cacares and Carnaveral!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I think some of the above experiences are a timely reminder that one should never count on a bar/cafe or albergue to be open. I always carry enough water and some food with me to get me thru the whole day if there is just one possible refueling point on the route.
 

However do plan to always carry some food with you, especially in winter, since many summer-only shops and bar/restos will be closed. Hence my food basics included tea bags, packets which make a cup of soup (even including croutons), firm cheese, small sausage, simple cookies and some chocolate. Nothing heavy but enough to exist for 24 hours if need be.

On past caminos especially during storms when stopped in small and remote albergues far from any supply source novice pilgrims often staggered in wet, cold and hungry. They may have had the best winter gear but carried no food!! Of course I shared.
 
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I have since heard that the workers on the AVE project have taken over the Albergue, if this is true it leaves a big gap in accomodation possibilities between Cacares and Carnaveral!
I have been watching these threads on the accommodation in this section for at least 2 years now, and there has been none between Casar de Caceres and Canaveral. See this thread, for example. The albergue in Canaveral is excellent.

In March 2016 my companion and I took a taxi from Caceres to the Embalse, and walked from there. It is important, though, to be sure that the taxi driver understands that you want the eastern end of the Embalse (reservoir), and not the western end where the large Roman bridge and a hydroelectric dam are located! The reservoir is one of the largest in Europe, so it is quite a distance.

I was told that the reason the albergue is closed relates to problems with the waste water/sewage disposal. That would make sense if the area is protected and the reservoir is used in part as a water supply. (I have no knowledge of whether this is actually the case.)
 
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Sy, great report. Thanks! I just read your German language site and notice you plan to take a small tent with you when you go from Prague. I will be leaving Seville after Easter and wonder about the somewhat long stages. I know that a tent would be totally unnecessary on the Portugues Central, but how about the VdlP? Maybe a hammock or bivvy? With all the wading and muddy paths, should I take boots with me or flip-flops?
 
G'day Jakke,

My wife and I walked the VDLP last year, starting out from Seville just after Easter. We didn't have much in the way of guides or maps but had read SYates notes which are great and gave us some idea of what to expect.

We had planned to beat the heat by walking out of Seville in April but ended up walking through the coldest and wettest spring of some 70 years (not sure if this is true but were told so by many when we got to SdC). We had done a bit of training prior to leaving Australia but on the Camino we only had a couple of days that felt hard. We got the feeling that a lot of people walking the VDLP had previously walked the Frances and were expecting similar distances and facilities. I think some people struggled because of the difference and quite a few dropped out in the first two weeks (our impression).
We had previously walked the Portuguese and so didn't have any real expectations other than what we had read.

The VDLP in spring was a fantastic journey with beautiful flowers, wonderful people, good facilities and a great walk (it wasn't the foot race we have heard of on the Frances).

Walking around the embalse was one of the harder days. We carried plenty of water as we had read that the "albergue" there was closed (we have read lots of different stories about it but actually never read of it being open). We had booked accommodation for that night and walked at an easy pace.

We don't think you need to take a tent, hammock or sleeping bag. We only took a sleeping bag liner and the Albergues had blankets. We wore boots and my wife also had walking sandals which she loved and used a lot.

We are walking Le Puy route and Camino del Norte starting in May this year, so we are very excited for our next adventure.

Buen Camino
 
Okay, thanks. That is the info I needed. Cold is perfect (I live in Finland), wet less so. I know from experience on the CP last year that only walking sandals are a working solution for me, but probably not in mud. Ultreya!
 
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Rain is OK but ........mud, my wife would swap over to her boots if she needed. You will have a great time, enjoy!
 

Climate is what you can expect, weather is what you get - and that can vary greatly from year to year! As I walked last spring (February/March) it was colder than it should have been, at least that was what the locals told me. I also had a fair bit of rain and even the occasional snowflake.
Tent-I met a few pilgrims that had a bivvy with them, some used it some not, I personally wouldn't take one for all the same reasons that I wouldn't take one on the CF (legality etc). I would certainly take again boots but might take crocs instead of walking sandals for those river/stream crossings.

Hope that helps, Buen Camino, SY

PS I already walked from Prague to Santiago in 2014, I took a tent with me but gave it away once I had reached Le Puy ...
 
I am pretty sure you can camp in Spain's national and natural parks, providing you adhere to 'leaving no trace'? I am not sure how much of the VDLP actually goes through these parks though.

I am going to take a tent with me on the VDLP this April and expect to camp occasionally, as I did on the CF last year. For me, it's a really nice treat to be sleeping out in nature after nights of being inside.

Aside from official campgrounds, there is always the option of asking land owners if you can camp on their land.

For the record, I'd never camp on anyone's land without permission!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Asking permission is fine ;-) The VdlP actually goes through very little national/nature parks most of the land is privately owned. Buen Camino, SY
 
Thanks SYates. I'm leaving Sevilla on April 6th, so this information is excellent!
Hi , we leave Cadiz on the same day, but on bikes, so at some point we should catch you up! buen camino!
 
I think i should change my name to Dim Pilgrim....
Just realised that SYates uploaded all this useful info last year, not this year!!!! and now i've messed up the print too!
If i get out of Cadiz in one piece twill be a miracle....!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
SYates, I just want to say a HUGE thank you! Your detailed info on the V de P has been invaluable, you are a star!
 
I have been planning a walk from Sevilla to Salamanca lately and using Gerald Kelly's guide. It is small and light and gives you detailed and up to date information (published December 2016). His maps are a bit hard on the eyes because of so many lines (would have prefered a sketch with only relevant information) but so be it. Also at a good price. This being said, he only mentions albergues, not hotels, pensions, casa rurales, etc.
 
I

Hi Anne Lis,

I have knowledge of a few (one?) attempt of robbery against pilgrims on that stretch, a few years from now. This has made many a pilgrim take other routes, or skip that first part... In my opinion this has been exaggerated and I think you should be safe.

Heat is nearly always a problem on this route, even more if you go in June-August - like I did, twice... You have to take some precautions. Are you familiar with these southern Caminos?

Take care/BP
 
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Wow, from Prague?? What about waymarking? Do you have to use regular maps to get through?
 
I'm loving your posts SYates and everyone else - I am keen to one day do the VDLP but am not keen on walking more than 30km per day. Is it possible to do it without the hugely long days now?
 
I'm loving your posts SYates and everyone else - I am keen to one day do the VDLP but am not keen on walking more than 30km per day. Is it possible to do it without the hugely long days now?
Yes it is possible. Look for my posts from April 2017 in the "Live" section and you will see how I split my days, at least until Galisteo, where I stopped due to injury. A taxi to shorten the day was required to the Berrocal park, and then I also would have needed one for another 10km just after Galisteo, as well as for the day of the embalse, due to the albergue still being closed at the moment.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Hi Syates
I really enjoyed reading all your information on the VDLP...and I appreciate all the time and dedication you have made to compile this.

Is there any possibility to obtain it in a WORD DOCUMENT from the Tidy Document that the Kiwi family made from it....

I will be walking from Salamanca to Santiago in Sept after serving 2 weeks first in Salamanca as a hospitalera and I would like to add your wonderful information and notes to help me on my way....
I have the Gerald Kelly book but find the small print a bit hard to read....

I really would appreciate it...if possible.....Thank you
 
Dear Camino Fossil
I'm just perparing to walk the VdlP this Spring (end of March) I have used YOUR blog, Gerald Kelly's book and www.gronze.com. I have loved reading your comments and sence of humour. Just wanted to say Thank You — for all the effort!!!
 
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No right or wrong way to do Camino right ? It is your Camino and if the taxi “is calling”, then taxi it is. Thanks for your diary. It helps me plan mine.
 
In Spain not, at least I never came across it, in France sometimes. Buen Camino, SY

Yates, without having read this entire thread again, what month did you walk the last stages of this route? I'm looking for someplace to walk in mid April for a couple of weeks where MAYBE the weather isn't TOO cold?
 
Hi @Anniesantiago I arrived beginning of April in Santiago. If you look for warmer weather, I would start far further south! BC SY
 
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Not necessarily warm, but what about starting somewhere on the Arles route to make it in time to Pamplona? Pau perhaps? And spring in southern France is beautiful! BC SY
 
Not necessarily warm, but what about starting somewhere on the Arles route to make it in time to Pamplona? Pau perhaps? And spring in southern France is beautiful! BC SY
But it’s cold! Or at least it was this year early April....
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I walked from Sevilla to Salamanca one year in February and it wasn't cold at all, wet at times but nothing unusual.

I've actually walked that already but was thinking about starting in Salamanca -- I think I may have decided to walk from Monserrat - I've climbed to the top of the mountain and looked across that valley and thought, "Wow.. I'd love to walk from here!" Maybe I will! and it's more in the area where I need to be in May.
 

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