New Member considering El Camino del Norte in Nov.-Dec. 2012

[DR.C]

Hi all,

I am please to have read so many of your inspiring stories of pilgrimage to Santiago. I am considering walking the North Route from mid-November 2012 until I arrive in Santiago, sometime in December. I enjoy cold weather hiking in the US. Are there others of you who are going that time of year on Camino del Norte? I understand that it will be more of a solitary trip. Yet, I would be open to traveling with fellow pilgrims. I am not sure yet as to the viability of the trip given my schedule with work, but I am planning it as best I can. I am trying to take care of the major issues (medical insurance, etc.) while leaving the rest of the details alone and just winging it. It makes me nervous to say the least, as I have never been to Europe. So, I am taking a leap of faith. I would welcome conversation with with those who share my passion for this endeavor.

David

 

[Sagalouts]

Hi David
I walked this way last year in October (pics and thoughts in my blog below) even then some places had started to close-the weather was very kind to me,as its coastal I would presume it will be a lot colder and more places closed,its a great walk though most people have done other Camino's first (more people and more places open on the CF) but its a great place to enjoy your first trip to Europe and experiance the different culture and food of the very proud and varied peoples on the way .
I wish you a great Camino
Ian

 

[DR.C]

Thank you for your kind response, Ian. I hear your concern and appreciate that you want the very best trip for me on the Camino de Santiago. I am used to cold and rugged terrain while backpacking. So, that part does not concern me much as I will camp most of the time (and have the appropriate gear). I suppose I am a bit more concerned about the unknowns. For example, will there always be people to stamp my passport this time of year? Also, I am quite rusty on my spanish...I think I might want to brush up a bit before I start the journey. Like any solo journey, I am somewhat concerned about personal safety. For example, in my area of the world, we must always hang our food high in the trees at night to avoid encounters with bears. Is that an issue on Camino del Norte? I have so many questions...I think I'll do some deeper reading on the trip. Thank you again for your guidance, Ian.

David

 

[oursonpolaire]

I do not think that bears will be a problem, unless you are crossing the Picos de Europa. However, you will not find very many spots where you can camp. There are a number of threads about the limitations on camping along the Camino. Note, as well, that you are walking along the coast of northern Spain at a potentially rainy time of year-- it will be one thing to walk in that, but quite another to try to camp in it as well. I suspect that you would be well-advised to use the network of albergues along the route.

 

[DR.C]

Thank you so much for your reply and suggestions. Rain and cold are not a problem; I embrace all seasons and all conditions. However, I am concerned about your comments on limited camping. I have sifted through some of the threads on camping and it appeared that camping was allowed anywhere along the path and would not be a problem. Is this not correct?

 

[oursonpolaire]

A close reading of camping posts will tell us that it is not always easy to find spots. Sometimes albergues will have yards or courtyards permitting this, sometimes not. Albergues in built-up areas will not. Camping on private land without permission is not legal in Spain and I do know that sometimes this is denied-- I know people who have been told to pack up and get moving, although you might be luckier. I think that you will have to be prepared to be flexible on this as the del Norte is not as pilgrim-conscious as the the Camino Francese and some Spaniards will need to be persuaded that you are not a vagabond.

As far as cold goes, I am a Canadian and well-used to strolling to work at -25°C-- I was more concerned about the prospect of steady rain over several days and not being able to dry out. We North Americans feel that we can overcome things, but a week of wet life is a challenge. I still stand by my advice on the albergues, which also provide a fire and comradeship.

As far as sellos go, if you are unable to obtain one for your credencial at an albergue, town halls (ayuntamientos), parishes, and turismos will be happy to supply one. If that's not manageable, a bar or restaurant or police station will oblige you. Just make sure that you get one per day and, in the 100km immediately before Santiago, two a day.

 

[DR.C]

Thank you again for that information. It appears that I may indeed need to stay in more formal housing along the way if camping is not really an option. Drying out at night certainly would be nice (grin). I have read that many albergues are closed in November and December. Will that be an issue on the North route? Are there other housing options that will be available without staying in hotels every night? Your advice is appreciated.

 

[oursonpolaire]

Apparently many of the del Norte albergues are closed in November and December-- I think that there are others on the board who will know more than I do. Should that be the case, then you have a whole range of options short of hotels: 1) ask around (turismo, cafe, priest, police, ayuntamiento), as sometimes locals are happy to put up pilgrims for a small sum, 2) cafes and bars often have rooms to rent (hay camas?) and, given that the Spanish are usually keen housekeepers, this is nowhere as sketchy as that advice would be in North America, 3) fondas, or pensions, or hostales (the Spanish family-run hotels) are often really good value--- they are spartan, but a roof, bed and shower is all you need, 4) casas rurales, or country inns, which are extremely comfortable and reasonable in the off season, in the 25E-50E range. Identify yourself as a pilgrim from the US and I think that you will find people willing to be very helpful--- the more Spanish you can speak, the better, of course. A real effort, even with many mistakes, is appreciated and respected. French is a good back-up language, especially in the Basque portion of the del Norte.

I would also suggest that you take the opportunity provided by this experience, at least once or twice, to enjoy the local seafood. This is one of the best places in the world for seafood and I think it would be verging on the criminal to avoid it entirely.

 

[DR.C]

Thank you, oursonpolaire, for your guidance. I am still quite interested in walking the camino de Santiago in November. It looks like I could be on the trail as early as November 7. I am learning to be open to the suggestions given here and want the best experience I can have given the time of year. Would anyone recommend a different, perhaps more traditional walk to Santiago? I have 4 - 5 weeks available and really do want to experience the flavor of spain and the historic and cultural value of the Camino de Santiago. I am also on a very personal journey in my life and this path has called to me. I welcome your input, all of you.

David

 

[Tia Valeria]

If this is the route that calls, then this I think that it is 'your' route. However other options would be:-

Walk the Norte and then down to Oviedo via Villaviciosa. (Primitivo starts here; Ruta de la Costa goes to Gijon)

1)You can then continue on the Primitivo (the oldest route) at least as far as La Espina. Here you would need to take note of the snow level further into the mountains.
Option is to turn north again back to the Norte west of Gijon, or if the weather is favourable continue on the Primitivo, using a mix of albergues/private albergues etc. You then join the Francés at Palas de Rei or Melide

2) From Oviedo turn north towards Gijon/Aviles and continue on the Norte. At the far end it may be possible to use the Camino del Mar and join up with the Camino Inglés instead of heading for Miraz and Sobrado de Monxes (online instructions at http://www.lugocamino.com/camino-del-mar) This would keep you nearer the coast and out of the mountains but I think it has many steep inclines due to the river valleys

3) From Oviedo turn south and go to Leon and the Camino Francés (but I am not sure if this is as difficult as the Primitivo at this time of year - others will comment I am sure)

You can start the Norte at Irun, or further west (eg Santander) where there may be more accommodation.
It depends in part whether you are wanting a pilgrimage with more or less people etc....
Happy planning and Buen Camino

 

[DR.C]

Tia Valeria,

Thanks you so much for your suggestions and support. The North route is one that interests me, but the Camino de Santiago (any path) is what calls me. Do you think that the CF would be a more important first trip? I know that is a judgement call, but I would welcome your opinion.

Thanks!
David

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola,
For us the Francés just does not call, rather the opposite. We are happier on the less frequented routes. Less people, smaller albergues etc. Terry found the stretch of the Francés after Melide very busy and crowded after the peace and comparative solitude of the Norte/Primitivo (2009). Fortunately there were less folk on that stretch this year as I was dreading it, but at times there were no pilgrims in sight for a while.
Try our blogs if you want to catch a feel of our experiences; listed below and right, plus Terry's at
http://walktocompostela.blogspot.co.uk/
Also Terry's Camino poem at Pilgrimage to Santiago
Buen Camino

 

[Sagalouts]

Hi
bearing in mind the time you are going Nov/Dec for me it has to be the CF because more pilgrim places open-less people walking but enough to make it not a solitary walk-more places to wild/camp-lots of history and imo a special place with a real feeling of Pilgrimage,you connect with all the people that have walked this way before right back to the pagans that followed the sun till it sank into the sea at fisterra walking on more natural surfaces than the tarmac of other routs-and last but not least-you walk through the best wine regions of Spain

 

[tyrrek]

Much as I'd love to walk the Camino del Norte I'd be slightly nervous about doing it at that time of year, despite having a couple of long Caminos under my belt and speaking reasonable Spanish. You certainly sound more experienced than I am at hiking more generally, though.

I'd also recommend the Frances, but that's without the experience of most other routes. I was there last December clearing litter with Rebekah in the middle of the route, and sometimes we'd go several hours without meeting any pilgrims, although there were certainly a few around. It could be a good compromise to walk a 'busy' route at a quiet time.

Good luck with whatever you decide. Buen Camino!