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Half board was €60 and not €80 as I put on the live post
When I went through Barxa del Lor, there were two fierce dogs chained at the same place, but the one which was leeping fiercely against his metal chain was truly dangerous. I was certain that, if the chain broke I was dead.
Those are gorgeous pictures, VN!
Like Annette, I encountered hoards of annoying flies on this stage? I remember them, I think, in a flat open area on a dirt road after Barxa, as well as in some of the forested areas. This was only once, though, so maybe it had to do with seasonal variation or maybe I was just hotter and smellier on one of my walks. I know some people have mosquito nets that drop down from their hats, but I have never bothered with that. If this seems to be a more general phenomenon on this route, however, maybe it’d be a good idea.
Annette, was that for both of you or per person?
I am certain that is the dog in Labrada or A Trampilla. Those are two hamlets of about four houses at the top of the hill before Barxa do Lor, so I always assumed I was in Barxa do Lor till someone pointed out that it is a different hamlet. I’ve put in a screen shot. The Pensión Pacita is off to the left a bit, at the intersection of the national highway and the LU-933.
View attachment 92272
I have found a contact email for the Invierno Association in Monforte, which is not too far away. This is the association headed by Aida Menéndez, author of one of the Invierno guidebooks. I am going to write and will let you know if I hear anything back.
Laurie,Those are gorgeous pictures, VN!
Like Annette, I encountered hoards of annoying flies on this stage? I remember them, I think, in a flat open area on a dirt road after Barxa, as well as in some of the forested areas. This was only once, though, so maybe it had to do with seasonal variation or maybe I was just hotter and smellier on one of my walks. I know some people have mosquito nets that drop down from their hats, but I have never bothered with that. If this seems to be a more general phenomenon on this route, however, maybe it’d be a good idea.
Annette, was that for both of you or per person?
I am certain that is the dog in Labrada or A Trampilla. Those are two hamlets of about four houses at the top of the hill before Barxa do Lor, so I always assumed I was in Barxa do Lor till someone pointed out that it is a different hamlet. I’ve put in a screen shot. The Pensión Pacita is off to the left a bit, at the intersection of the national highway and the LU-933.
View attachment 92272
I have found a contact email for the Invierno Association in Monforte, which is not too far away. This is the association headed by Aida Menéndez, author of one of the Invierno guidebooks. I am going to write and will let you know if I hear anything back.
Wonderful!!Your pictures led me to poke around a little about Salcedo, because it’s fun to take little detours when there are nice things along the way.
Did you know there was a “monumental cedar” there in town, Annette?
View attachment 92291
And it looks like there’s a nice little circular walk of about 1.5 km that takes you to a castro and some old mills.
Guess you’ll just have to go back and see that tree!
QUIROGA TO A LABRADA (BARXA DO LOR). (15km??) After the first ascent and descent... Stayed at quiet Pension Pacita in Labrada, next door to Barxa do Lor. Definitely recommend for a peaceful stop or meal, very nice accom, pleasant with TV and baño, and food great. Special trout. Friendly chooks/chickens out the back! To get to Pension Pacita..after crossing the bridge in Barxa, turn left and follow the river (probably signposted) for perhaps 300m??. On the LU-933 Ph 982 430 008. Monica speaks Eng. 20-30Euro. I had a lovely room, 2 full meals inc wine (their own), drinks and early breakfast in my room… all for $38. Lovely Monica is muy simpatico.
Yes saw him. So glad he was about 20 m from the track and chained up, but he certainly made his presence felt. Perhaps he's just making sure we take his photo....?... while keeping on walking and not looking him in the eye.One thing to alert you to is the angry barking dog just as you are approaching Barxa do Lor. You can see the bridge ahead of you, but the specific name of the dog’s hamlet is Labrada. This dog is one for the record books, but everyone who has seen him confirms that he is always on a chain. I never saw this dog on my first two Inviernos. But the last time I passed by, the owner was actually out there with the chained dog at his side. The owner’s presence had no impact on the dog’s fierce barking, lunging, and growling, and the owner himself appeared unconcerned.
That's exactly it Theatregal. Beautifully written.The path ascends for quite some time and there’s that moment when you think, “I haven’t seen an arrow for awhile, did I miss something, am I on the right path?” Then you turn a corner and there it is, the path flattens, your heart rate slows and you sink into the relaxation of a nice easy pace and a lovely gentle view ahead. It had been overcast leaving O Barxa but at this point the clouds lifted and skies brightened. All through this stretch, the sound of cuckoo birds.
A LABRADA to POBRA DO BROLLON .. Another big ascent and descent day! To begin, some confusion with the signs.
After the descent, Reguengo. Guide says “Arrive in Vilarmao, turn Right towards Reguengo” However, I found, Camino arrows continue straight on at the Reguengo sign (bypassing the pueblo) and then straight down a farm track and into Pobra do Brolløn. (NB: This was in 2018 so probably updated and more signage since then)
As you come into Pobra, you can see the main road, but the signs lead you briefly beside the manicured, pretty, stream. Only briefly, watch carefully for an arrow on the paving to cross the stream on a pretty footbridge.. If you miss it, just cross on one of the following footbridges, and go to the main road, where you turn Right onto it. Two or three Bars on this main road. Just past the 3rd bar is a distinguished building with name , Concello de Pobra etc. Cross the carreterra hereabouts and turn Left (Marked). Not many signs, some on the ground and have become overgrown or faded.
The google maps screen shots I posted earlier indicate that the pensión is “temporarily closed,” so hopefully it’s a COVID closure and not another case like As Viñas in Pobra de Brollón.Across the bridge, there is a signed left turn onto a path leading to the Pensión Pacita, my accommodation for the night. 20 euro for a private room with bath.
You know, @ebrant, I think most of us planners take the same approach. I think it’s impossible to be happy on the camino tied to a schedule, but like you, I really feel more comfortable having all the information and options organized and accessible so I can make decisions in real time. Especially when there are alternatives to explore, like from Borrenes or to the Miño horseshoe (coming up after Monforte), I would miss a lot of wonderful things if I didn’t have my two or three pages that distill all this info. But of course to each her own!Then we start walking and the planning sort of goes to the wind!
The planning itself can bring a bit of the camino home too! I can just get totally transported by reading, googling, looking at pics and blogs! And I need to be transported these days!You know, @ebrant, I think most of us planners take the same approach. I think it’s impossible to be happy on the camino tied to a schedule, but like you, I really feel more comfortable having all the information and options organized and accessible so I can make decisions in real time.
I expect VN and theatregal can give Pacita opinions, I’ve never stayed there. I’ve been in the Quiper twice, once with exterior window and once with interior window (to an air shaft basically, as you have probably experienced in other accommodations in spain). The time I had the “interior room,” it was at my request, because it was a weekend and the street was very noisy below. I’ve inserted a picture from google street view. And yes, bathrooms are private.but I would like to know if pension Pacita, and any of the places in Quiroga fit my criteria?
Quiroga to Chantada has the challenge of three ascents, one a few kms after Quiroga, one after Barxa de Lor, and one more thrown in for good measure closer to Monforte. The climbs are of decreasing difficulty so you get the hard ones out of the way first. I think those difficulty ratings are so intensely personal that it is hard to know what gronze means by 4 out of 5. It was definitely not one of the hardest stages I’ve walked on caminos, but maybe one way to get an idea would be to see their difficulty rating for a stage you are familiar with and then see if you agree. I’ve now got a pretty good idea about what my body likes in terms of some combination of distance and elevation gain, so that’s what I focus on when I’m looking at potential stages.I see that Gronze rates the sections from Quiroga to Chantada as 4 out of 5 level of difficulty. I imagine myself enjoying that challenge if I can break it into four days, so I really hope that Pensión Pacita is only temporarily closed. It sounds like the ideal place to stop between Quiroga and Monforte
Hi @Rowena ~ This is the first camino that I booked almost all of my accommodation in advance. For various reasons, I needed an 'ease of mind' and just really wanted to sink into this walk without the concern of finding a place to stay at the end of the day.I’m wondering about accommodation too, specifically about booking ahead. I wish I didn’t have to do that, but some of the places I would like to stop have only a few rooms. What has been your experience with availability? Of course, who knows what the future holds in that regard. In 2022 there may be more, fewer or the same number of pilgrims as there were pre-pandemic.
My room at Pension Pacita was very clean, light and airy with a window that opened and private bathroom. Same with Hostal Quiper in Quiroga.With regards to accommodations, we are looking for clean, mold-less as possible rooms that have good window ventilation because whenever we go, ventilation will be important in a now COVID world. A room without windows is out for us. Twin rooms with windows, and private bathrooms.
Many of the accommodations between towns have limited info on line. Up till this segment I have found sufficient info...but I would like to know if pension Pacita, and any of the places in Quiroga fit my criteria?
Did you know there was a “monumental cedar” there in town, Annette?
Ok, ok. I give up. I guess I have to walk the invierno again.And it looks like there’s a nice little circular walk of about 1.5 km that takes you to a castro and some old mills.
Wow. I was just a week or so ahead of you and missed these guys completely.plagued by swarming black flies
I'm the sort of person who figures out how to get to the first town on the Camino and then just heads West without too much of a plan. But if there's one thing this year has taught me is how much I am potentially walking right past unawares by doing that. And I've missed out on alternatives, because I just don't know about them. Not any more. I'm converted.Especially when there are alternatives to explore
Ditto.My room at Pension Pacita was very clean, light and airy with a window that opened and private bathroom
Marbe, pre covid, I too always looked for mould-less rooms with windows that open if I get a chance. I n dormitories I will try to get nearest any window and 'fight' everyone else to keep it open. Post covid even more so.....With regards to accommodations, we are looking for clean, mold-less as possible rooms that have good window ventilation because whenever we go, ventilation will be important in a now COVID world. A room without windows is out for us. Twin rooms with windows, and private bathrooms.
Many of the accommodations between towns have limited info on line. Up till this segment I have found sufficient info...but I would like to know if pension Pacita, and any of the places in Quiroga fit my criteria?
I reserved ahead only one or two times i think, and that was the morning of or the evening before. One was for Asun's albergue, Casa da Solaina, in A Rua ( now closed down) which was just as well with about 5-6 pilgrims there that night. I may have booked ahead for Pacita, but I was the only guest and it wasn't necessary. The 5 other pilgrims all walked on further.How about the rest of the Invierno veterans — do you reserve, and if so, how far in advance?
As for whether veteran walkers of the Invierno book ahead, I did so for the first night, at Villavieja, but that did not work out and I went on to Borrenes. Later, with your help, @peregrina2000 , I got a booking at Torre Vilarino, which I had been unable to book for myself, it being the last night that the hotel was open before closing for the month of November. They just sent me a form letter email saying that they would be closed, but you were somehow able to get me a room. Does anyone know if the fire damage at Torre Vilarino has been repaired, or should this be left until we are discussing where to stay in that region? Other than there, and at Villavieja, I did not reserve, as I find it challenging to know in advance where I will stop. However, I don't want to leave myself without a bed, either.How about the rest of the Invierno veterans — do you reserve, and if so, how far in advance?
Let me jump at the chance to provide some help — I am almost always on the receiving end when it comes to technology, and this is something I actually learned by trial and error.I have lots of photos of the these and all along the way, but sadly they are too big to share here and I don't know how to reduce in size.
Well, that depends on what you want to do on your rest day.On the Invierno, if you were going to take a rest day, would it be in Monforte de Lemos, or?
I am not a pool person. In light of COVID, I doubt I would use a pool for a while Normally, we leave early in the morning, so on a rest day, I like to get extra rest. sleep in, veg, breathe in narure, and maybe visit one attraction close by, but not necessary. So, for example, one place I take a rest day on the CF is in El Acebo. At the Albergue Casa del Peregrino. Nice rooms, beautiful patio with gorgeous panorama (pool in summer).evening pilgrim meal is average. I have only stayed in the off season, perhaps one can order off menu in high season. Great room/ lodge-like with panoramic windows , where folks eat breakfast is lovely.Well, that depends on what you want to do on your rest day.
Do you like to spend rest days seeing the sights, or would you prefer to relax out in the country in a casa rural with a swimming pool? Monforte is undoubtedly the place with the most going on. If you prefer the R&R approach, I think Torre Vilariño, about 18 from Monforte, is the perfect option. There’s a STUPENDOUS 6 km circle walk with some 5-star views over the Miño and a little romanesque church, plus an ethnographic museum right near by, adjacent to a prehistoric hill fort with more fantabulous views, but wait! I am getting ahead of myself.
Hi Marbe2,@peregrina2000 My favorite trees are Cedar...” The just shall grown as tall as palms...like Cedars they shall stand!” Nut trees can be a great for sources of nourishment but what a mess the nuts make when they fall on your property!
Thank you all for the wonderful posts, directions, pictures, warnings, and notes!
I will be prepared for the dogs on this segment andthrow them a treat in Labrada and anywhere they may be problematic.
With regards to accommodations, we are looking for clean, mold-less as possible rooms that have good window ventilation because whenever we go, ventilation will be important in a now COVID world. A room without windows is out for us. Twin rooms with windows, and private bathrooms.
Many of the accommodations between towns have limited info on line. Up till this segment I have found sufficient info...but I would like to know if pension Pacita, and any of the places in Quiroga fit my criteria?
Also have any of you gone off the camino trail and walked ( at the sign) and followed the path directly to Salcedo? If so, what was the path like and how long did it you take?
A rest for us would probably be a shorter walking day of perhaps 15 km and then arriving at a place early on...On the Invierno, if you were going to take a rest day, would it be in Monforte de Lemos, or?
When is the best time in the Fall or Winter, weather-wise to the walk the Invierno and why ( no Spring due to allergies).
This place was very cool. And a very short detour. It's on the right shortly after Pobra, and is very clearly signposted. It would be next to impossible to miss. The detour is very short, maybe 200 m? Here's a map:I am hoping VN will give us info on the castro (hill fort) she took a slight detour to see.
On the Invierno, if you were going to take a rest day, would it be in Monforte de Lemos, or?
If Torre Vilariño is back in business, it suits your criteria nicely.I like to get extra rest. sleep in, veg, breathe in narure, and maybe visit one attraction close by, but not necessary.
The last time I walked through it was really really muddy. I happened to get there just as an Italian peregrino had picked himself up after what looked like (based on the mud all over him) a combination of a face plant and a 360 roll in the mud (though I’m not sure how that could have happened). There is a way to avoid this, which involves taking the old camino and the entrance into town near the RR station.the 6th one is the unavoidable muddy spot as you are coming into the outskirts of Monforte
That’s where I stayed too! Totally agree about the place downstairs. I wonder if I had read about it on a live post from you, as I was several weeks behind you. I can’t remember how I found it but I was very happy.I stayed at the MON ComeySueña Guesthouse. Lovely simple, airy room with bathroom - 28 euros. Very central and close to the Roman bridge, Ponte Vella (5 min walk) Fantastic cafe downstairs.
Finally catching up on these great posts, as I start the Invierno tomorrow. Where did you stay in Monforte?
I stayed at the MON ComeySueña Guesthouse on Roberto Baamond, 30. Lovely single room with beautiful bathroom - 28 euros. Close to the Puente Romana (5 min walk) Fantastic cafe downstairs. Buen camino tomorrow Laurie!
Montforte… big town, no signs to the bridge that I saw. I stayed at the Hotel Puente Romano, just right before and at the bridge. Thought about the Parador, but that was up one hill too many. Big supermarkets across the bridge and just off the camino on the way out of town. Camino signage is good from the bridge to the big horario roundabout, and it is easy to get out of Montforte, with the guide directions, and some arrows, a few, to get you to the ‘horario’ roundabout.
This was my favourite place to stay on this camino!!That’s where I stayed too! Totally agree about the place downstairs. I wonder if I had read about it on a live post from you, as I was several weeks behind you. I can’t remember how I found it but I was very happy.
Well, I have the answer to my own question. From your live thread:
Like @CaroleH, I stayed at Puente Romano, which was good enough. But if there's a next time, I'll definitely try this place.This was my favourite place to stay on this camino!!
I have just spent the evening watching @Sara_Dhooma 's videos of her walk on the Invierno. She walked in Dec. 2019, the month after I did. And it was still raining. It is wonderful to see so much that is familiar, and beautiful. I am really eager to get going. However, I hope that my next camino walk will be on the Levante, so I shall be following the Sanabres into Santiago, with just a peek into the Invierno as I pass by A Laxe. I am longing to get going when I can.
Some of us grandmas have worried a bitI learned a lot about the terrain from watching Sara’s videos.... she is quite a character and her video is a wonderful resource. It was a bit concerning to me, however, that she kept walking sometimes at night, in the pouring rain, with pour visibility and “Alone” in December ... sometimes in isolated areas, that likely may not have had cell phone reception, Obviously, from her many videos, she is an experienced walker, but I am not sure some of her choices were always prudent. What if she had gotten injured? For first time walkers, please be careful.
Agree, but for 1st time walkers viewing it, a word of concern might be worth voicing?Some of us grandmas have worried a bit. But then I learned that she was not a youth but a grown up woman capable of taking care of herself, so I decided not to grandmaworry her anymore.
Thanks for the reminder about Sara’s Invierno videos. I hadn’t seen a bridge dance in a while! I enjoy her videos, as her caminos are totally different than mine. The night walking is not something I would choose to do, especially on this camino because it means you will miss some real beauty! It does give her some great stories, though. And yes, I agree that it’s hard to resist those natural maternal instincts — Sara, it’s dangerous to walk at night!!!
One thing for people who are interested in the quality of the accommodations — she always gives a good video tour of where she has stayed, which may help people in their choices. I thought the Villavieja albergue looked really nice, and now that it’s under new management, I think many more people will be stopping there.
Albertagirl, I wrote an email to the association to raise concerns about this dog, and included this sentence in Spanish. I just received a response from Aida Menendez herself! I have heard and read lots and lots about her - a tireless advocate and promoter of the Invierno. She was heavily involved in the long process to get the Camino recognized by the authorities.. I was certain that, if the chain broke I was dead.
Thank you for your advocacy. I hope the poor dog finds a good home...Albertagirl, I wrote an email to the association to raise concerns about this dog, and included this sentence in Spanish. I just received a response from Aida Menendez herself! I have heard and read lots and lots about her - a tireless advocate and promoter of the Invierno. She was heavily involved in the long process to get the Camino recognized by the authorities.
Anyway, she told me she has heard about this dog, and went out herself after getting my email, but of course the dog wasn’t there. Anyway, since she has received more than one report, she has notified the ayuntamiento of Quiroga, who have promised to investigate further. For what that’s worth! I have offered to write a letter myself, and will let you know if there seems to be any point in writing up our terrifying experiences!
Thank you. It is true that I thought that my death would be the result, if the dog succeeded to break the chain that he was leaping ferociously against. But I wasn't really afraid that he would succeed in doing so while I was walking past. Having heard of this dog previously, I felt that the odds were in my favour to survive a short walk past. Which I did. I was apprehensive, but not really terrified. But of course the point was not my fear but the danger to pilgrims at that point, where there was no obvious alternate route.I wrote an email to the association to raise concerns about this dog,
Brilliant! Thank you, Laurie.For what that’s worth! I have offered to write a letter myself, and will let you know if there seems to be any point in writing up our terrifying experiences!
Wonderful news!I have had recent contact with Susana and she tells me that the fire was limited to the kitchen and one guest room. Everything has been repaired and rebuilt. They are closed now because of COVID, open only for workers who are doing archaeological and biological investigations in the area, but will open when they can.
Hi LaurieThanks to @Marbe for the interest in the Invierno.
A few years ago, I posted some shorter stages options for the Invierno. Since that time, facilities have increased and there are more options. So I am starting a day by day Virtual Invierno tour, following the examples of my good buddies’ @AJGuillaume and @VNwalking, who have done this for the Viejo, the Mozárabe, and currently the Lana.
So, here is what I suggest. Let’s talk about it one stage at a time. I will post the stage, give a couple of days for input (both questions and suggestions) and then move on to the next. At the end we should have a pretty good document to complement our Forum Resources guide. John Brierley has an Invierno guide now, which is available in the forum store. I think our forum guide is all you need, but the fact that Brierley has one is a clear indication of which way he thinks the winds are blowing!
The way we have done the Lana planning is a good guide for us, I think. We just completed Part I (Alicante to Cuenca). It had about 450 posts, and I went back and edited out all the banter so that the end product would be more helpful as a planning tool. We wound up with about 250 posts in the Part I document. So, let’s continue with that here, because the side chatter makes it feel more like a real conversation. At the end, I will go back and “clean it up.”
The unknown, of course, is how covid will ultimately impact the infrastructure, but we will just have to use our best judgment.
I will be back in a few minutes to get this started.
Buen camino, Laurie
Good Luck in your planning, Mary Rose! It looks like, so far, that most of my days adjusting for hills, will be about 20km. When we do days of 20km consistently with hills, I make sure after 5 days I either do a really short day, or, if I am tired, a rest day. I always say, know thyself....what makes the journey enjoyable and safe, for you!Hi Laurie
I’m hoping I’ll be able to walk the Invierno from mid September (if I’ll be allowed leave Ireland)... I have John Brierely’s book on it..... I’m glad you’re beginning to post the stages over shorter distances, I found those in the book quite long.... looking forward to more information at a later stage.... mary-Rose O’Regan.
I love Monforte. On weekdays there is bit of charming provincial bustle. It's a little quiet on the weekends.Monforte de Lemos
Thanks Laurie.... I’ve walked many a Camino but I’ve developed osteonecrosis of my knee so I don’t want to do long days.... I try to listen to my inner voice... not always successfully thoughGood Lu
Good Luck in your planning, Mary Rose! It looks like, so far, that most of my days adjusting for hills, will be about 20km. When we do days of 20km consistently with hills, I make sure after 5 days I either do a really short day, or, if I am tired, a rest day. I always say, know thyself....what makes the journey enjoyable and safe, for you!
Hi, @ranthr, I meant to comment when you mentioned the now closed but very lovely Casa Santo Estevo. I have also stayed there a couple of times, and have always enjoyed my time with Irene and Ian - a Dutch/British expat couple. The Santo Estevo church overlooking the Miño (not to be confused with the monastery of Santo Estevo on the Sil River) is a real Romanesque gem, and it is approxiately 10 feet from their house. I have been lucky both times I was there that the church was opened for one reason or another and I could go inside.But after recovering in the home of Ean and Irene with good bed and excellent food, the next day to Chantada was a piece of cake.
That’s Diomondi!There is a church/building to the right just as the path turns sharp left at a bus shelter and down into Belesar.
Seriously!That’s Diomondi!
AHHHH, the perfect invitation for me to ramble down memory lane. VN had lost her credential and I was a few weeks behind her. Several forum members were walking the Invierno, and we were all keeping an eye out, because she was pretty sure she had lost it somewhere between Torre Vilari;o and Belesar.I forgot to mention that on the little roads we spent some time looking at the ground and the edges looking out for a lost credential!
But that's another story and one that had very successful outcome the day after when the credential was found safe and sound!
Edit:
I forgot to mention that on the little roads we spent some time looking at the ground and the edges looking out for a lost credential!
But that's another story and one that had very successful outcome the day after when the credential was found safe and sound!
It's pretty steep going down...mostly rounded stones/slabs of stoneJust catching up. We are in the midst of a monster snow storm that has been going on for couple of days. Started here on Sunday around noon and is still going. We are over 3ft...at the moment.
I wanted to ask about the V shaped downhill with Belesar in between. What is the trail downward like. Is it a real hiking train? Is it paved? Also the ascent into Chantada what kind of a grade is it?
TheatregielVilariño to Chantada
A very foggy moody morning, leaving Vilariño. I left later than I like to. Susanna, who runs Torre Vilariño talked me into staying for breakfast which isn’t served until 9:00am. She said “To Chantada it’s easy. A bit of down, a bit of up and you’ll be there quickly.” OkayI'm glad I did as there were no services until lunch half way up on the ascent out of Belesar.
From the multi signed crossroads it’s a nice flat walk on a quiet road through multiple hamlets to Diomondi. During the whole 7.5 km stretch only 3 or 4 cars passed.
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At Diomondi, take a short detour to the right to see the Igrexa San Paio Diomondi. Spent some time there looking at all the details and beautiful carvings above the doors. As always with these wonderful old churches it’s so important to circle around the whole building. So much more than just the front facade. I forget to do that sometimes.
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Retracing your steps, the camino turns right, off road at a bus shelter and 100km waymark.
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I loved the next part of the walk - the steep descent through forest along the remains of a Roman road and then through terraced vineyards, all the while catching glimpses of the river far below, the terraced slopes on the other side and then that first beautiful view of Belesar and it’s bridge. Spectacular!
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In Belesar, I turned right before the bridge, hoping that the marina restaurant, Abaceria o Batuxo would be open but it wasn’t. I crossed the bridge and had a nice rest on a bench before starting the ascent which begins immediately out of the village. The first part of the climb is along the road and made easier by stopping to admire the stunning vistas that open up the higher you go.
This part of the camino between Belesar and San Pedro alternates between switchback road sections and off road dirt paths cutting through the switchbacks. It is possible of course to stay on the road and avoid the dirt path cut-throughs.
About half way up the ascent, a road stretch takes you to the restaurant Mesón Adega do Veiga. Look for the sign at their driveway on the left. I arrived at about 2:30pm and it was open for lunch. A welcome break with beautiful views from their picture windowed dining room.
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Soon after leaving the restaurant, arrows take you off the road onto a short steep descent into a lush green gully and across a stream on steppingstones past an old stone mill. Saw a stunning blue dragonfly next to the stream.
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The path immediately ascends again to another short walk along the road. The next ascent that takes you off road is signposted San Pedro de Lincora, 1.9 km. This part, which leads to the road again was very overgrown and muddy. Shoe covering wet muck and a struggle in parts to wack through the folliage. A lot of flying insects here too. It was a difficult stretch and this was the only part of the whole ascent where it would have been better to stay on the road.
There is one more off road section, leading to the road and into San Pedro and the rest of the way downhill on the road into Chantada where I stayed at the Hotel Mogay (28 euro with breakfast) I had a nice evening walk and dinner at a café near Plaza Santa Ana.
Loved that little gully section with the stone mill and stream. It reminded me of a part of the Variante Espiritual - the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua, also lush and green with the remains of stone mills.Brought that wonderful section right back to me and I'm just enjoying the scenery once more
A brilliant description of the route up
I just remember the muddy path past the mill
I think that's a blue-winged damselfly.Now how did I know that you would have a photo of a bird/ butterfly somewhere in those photos!!!?
Theatregal, your descriptions and pictures are really terrific. I can see the road..beginning the descent. Quite rocky it is! My sister will be 81 and I am thinking about taking the road down. I am sure it is a bit longer, but will be safer for her. Thanks!Vilariño to Chantada
A very foggy moody morning, leaving Vilariño. I left later than I like to. Susanna, who runs Torre Vilariño talked me into staying for breakfast which isn’t served until 9:00am. She said “To Chantada it’s easy. A bit of down, a bit of up and you’ll be there quickly.” OkayI'm glad I did as there were no services until lunch half way up on the ascent out of Belesar.
From the multi signed crossroads it’s a nice flat walk on a quiet road through multiple hamlets to Diomondi. During the whole 7.5 km stretch only 3 or 4 cars passed.
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At Diomondi, take a short detour to the right to see the Igrexa San Paio Diomondi. Spent some time there looking at all the details and beautiful carvings above the doors. As always with these wonderful old churches it’s so important to circle around the whole building. So much more than just the front facade. I forget to do that sometimes.
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Retracing your steps, the camino turns right, off road at a bus shelter and 100km waymark.
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I loved the next part of the walk - the steep descent through forest along the remains of a Roman road and then through terraced vineyards, all the while catching glimpses of the river far below, the terraced slopes on the other side and then that first beautiful view of Belesar and it’s bridge. Spectacular!
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In Belesar, I turned right before the bridge, hoping that the marina restaurant, Abaceria o Batuxo would be open but it wasn’t. I crossed the bridge and had a nice rest on a bench before starting the ascent which begins immediately out of the village. The first part of the climb is along the road and made easier by stopping to admire the stunning vistas that open up the higher you go.
This part of the camino between Belesar and San Pedro alternates between switchback road sections and off road dirt paths cutting through the switchbacks. It is possible of course to stay on the road and avoid the dirt path cut-throughs.
About half way up the ascent, a road stretch takes you to the restaurant Mesón Adega do Veiga. Look for the sign at their driveway on the left. I arrived at about 2:30pm and it was open for lunch. A welcome break with beautiful views from their picture windowed dining room.
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Soon after leaving the restaurant, arrows take you off the road onto a short steep descent into a lush green gully and across a stream on steppingstones past an old stone mill. Saw a stunning blue dragonfly next to the stream.
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The path immediately ascends again to another short walk along the road. The next ascent that takes you off road is signposted San Pedro de Lincora, 1.9 km. This short section which leads to the road again, was very overgrown and muddy. Shoe covering wet muck and a struggle in parts to wack through the folliage. A lot of flying insects here too. It was a difficult stretch and this was the only part of the whole ascent where it would have been better to stay on the road.
There is one more off road section, leading to the road and into San Pedro and the rest of the way downhill on the road into Chantada where I stayed at the Hotel Mogay (28 euro with breakfast) I had a nice evening walk and dinner at a café near Plaza Santa Ana.
Theatregal is, IMO, leading the pack in the running for Forum Photographer Laureate.Theatregal, your descriptions and pictures are really terrific. I can see the road..beginning the descent. Quite rocky it is! My sister will be 81 and I am thinking about taking the road down. I am sure it is a bit longer, but will be safer for her. Thanks!
@peregrina2000 Thank you so much! Might I suggest you consider putting this alternative in your updated version of your guide book. I would also put the picture of the rocky path going down hill with a caution and the alternative route. There appears to be a couple of routes suggested by google maps down to the river. The one you posted appears to have a Winery slightly off the road called Abadia da cova Mourve.Theatregal is, IMO, leading the pack in the running for Forum Photographer Laureate.
I think the road option is only viable for the ascent on the other side of the Miño and not the descent to Belesar. This map shot shows you how the short descent from the church in Diomondi to Belesar turns into a 10 km walk on a road.
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But Marbe, if that descent looks like something you want to avoid, what I would do is take the road option straight from Torre Vilariño down to the river and over to Belesar. You would leave the camino at the ethnographic museum and continue on the road. That would be 11 km from Torre Vilariño to Belesar, which is about the same distance as the camino route to Diomondi and down to the river on the Belesar’s elbows trail. I have never done that but it looks like you would have a really nice stretch right on the riverside, with the gorgeous views over to the vineyards on the other side. And those roads just aren’t heavily trafficked at all. And you would also coincidentally be on part of the 6 km loop VN and I have described and on your descent to the river would pass a romanesque church as well as the Adegas Moure, which has one of the most beautiful viewing points of that horseshoe bend in the river below.
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1. Train option (thanks, Charrito). Arrive in A Rúa after 14 km from Barco. Leave your backpack in your pensión or hotel. Walk 10 km on to Montefurado. Take the 6:14 pm train back to A Rúa. The next morning, catch the 10 am train to Montefurado and carry on.
I bought the ticket on the Renfe app. You can also buy it on www.renfe.es. Ticket cost 2.2 euro in 2018.Sorry to backtrack, but this just occurred to me:
Question for someone who has taken the train option: where does one acquire the train ticket? Is there a station in Montefurado or is it just an apeadero (minor stop without a station)? Do you pay on the train?
I had seen that place and hadn’t bothered to do a google maps that goes directly to the “river beach” and restaurant. It looks like you leave Torre Vilariño on the LU-5807 and make your way down almost to the river level where it picks up the LU-5819 (which then continues all the way into Belesar). Lots of different little roads here to pay attention, but I suppose in the end if you keep going down you will make it to the river.If you stay on 5819, it appears to be 3minutes longer, but there are two restaurants on it. Restaurante ACoba ( currently open 12-4pm). The other is close to the river. It is called Playa Fluvial De ACova Restaurante & Ocio.
https://playadacova.es/#!/restaurante (right now take out). Looks like a fun place!
My thinking is that there will be no route numbers on these small roads in all likelihood, but one could aim at the small towns or signs for the restaurants. When I go, I’ll report back!I had seen that place and hadn’t bothered to do a google maps that goes directly to the “river beach” and restaurant. It looks like you leave Torre Vilariño on the LU-5807 and make your way down almost to the river level where it picks up the LU-5819 (which then continues all the way into Belesar). Lots of different little roads here to pay attention, but I suppose in the end if you keep going down you will make it to the river.
I noticed that the restaurant website says “call us if you get lost” so it must be a bit confusing.
Once you are at the river beach the 5819 takes you directly into Belesar, about 7 kms.
In between the two options, the choice is
1. Getting down to the river quicker, having the restaurant/bar there on the river to stop, and walking along the river a bit longer to Belesar. (google map shot below)View attachment 927542. Taking the route that stays higher longer, which gives you some fabulous views of the river but misses the bar on the beach and comes out on the river about a km beyond the restaurant/river beach.Both options have long walks along the river, though.
I appreciate your experience on this section.Diamondi to Belesar:
When I walked from Diomondo to Chantada (May 2018) I was a bit surprised of the description of the way down to Belesar, in my opinion it was a nice walk through the wood down to the river. The weather was ok, but even if it had been raining some days before, the path was dry and ok.
I would say that there are several streches on the Frances that is much worse that this:
From the cross down to Acebo, through the wood down to Roncesvalles, down from Alto Perdon, the last part down to Zubiri, just to mention a few of them that I have walked several times.
I was 71 in 2018 and a very slow walker, I always use poles downwards.
I stayed the night in Santo Estevo and went there by car from Diomondo. There were several ups and downs along the road too.
Up from Belesar I took the road, the arroyo along path was froading, the path was muddy and slippy, so I continued on road instead with a nice stop in the bodega with the beautiful view.
That’s right, you don’t see so much, I guess you see more on both roadalternatives.You know I might also be tempted to try this river walk alternative. The route down to Belesar is beautiful, fairy forests, but it’s so wooded that you don’t get many views of the river till you are almost down there. These road walks would give you a nice 7 km stroll along the beautiful Sil River.
One highlight for the current route for me was the Roman road downhill to Belesar, with apparently genuine Roman pavement, though I suspect it needed repairs over the millenia. For a while, I was walking in the past, through a forest and down a walkway that may not be so very different from in ancient times. I cannot imagine choosing a modern road as an alternative.That’s right, you don’t see so much, I guess you see more on both roadalternatives.
Me too. Mon Comey Sueña Guesthouse in Montford sounds good.Like @CaroleH, I stayed at Puente Romano, which was good enough. But if there's a next time, I'll definitely try this place.
Good to know about Sarah's videos. Just watched her Day 1 Invierno, not sure if I can cope with the rather annoying flippant, commentary for long, but it was nice to see Albergue Villavieja, where i had very similar experience to her, the previous year when it had been open only 2 months, the key hunt, then blown away by the great facility. Loved that place. Recommend.Thanks for the reminder about Sara’s Invierno videos. I hadn’t seen a bridge dance in a while! I enjoy her videos, as her caminos are totally different than mine. The night walking is not something I would choose to do, especially on this camino because it means you will miss some real beauty! It does give her some great stories, though. And yes, I agree that it’s hard to resist those natural maternal instincts — Sara, it’s dangerous to walk at night!!!
One thing for people who are interested in the quality of the accommodations — she always gives a good video tour of where she has stayed, which may help people in their choices. I thought the Villavieja albergue looked really nice, and now that it’s under new management, I think many more people will be stopping there.
I'm wondering about the dog problem on the Invierno. It seems worse than the early days on VdlP and other lesser traveled caminos. I was really worried about it when I started the Invierno alone, and had encounters with the dogs some of you mention. I had a really scary attack by 3 loose farm dogs later, which I'll talk about then, but first day, Villavieja, with its mastiff, now chained up, still had a bunch of dogs sitting in the middle of a street, which worried me a bit. Then two separate guys, pilgrims I met, had both had dog attacks, one with no hiking stick, had to fight off the attacking bulldog with his fist.Albertagirl, I wrote an email to the association to raise concerns about this dog
I'm wondering about the dog problem on the Invierno.
Have you tried carrying a small bag of good dog treats....keeping a few of them ever accessible in a pocket for emergencies?Years ago, I was very involved in the conversation about the big barking mastiff in Villavieja, and I am so glad that has been resolved. But he was nothing compared to this. My first experience with the dog outside Barxa do Lor (sometimes two dogs) was on my third Invierno, so I really lucked out the first two times. This was probably the scariest dog experience I’ve ever had on a camino, even though he was chained. But I am hopeful that some official involvement will help with that.
Do you know where the other dogs were that attacked the people you met? I think that, in general, the Invierno is no “worse” than any other untraveled camino in rural Spain in terms of loose dogs. After many years of paralyzing fear, I’ve gotten to the point that I can walk past some loose barking dogs without feeling my heart jump through my chest. @Rebekah Scott was a very good teacher.
No, Marbe, I haven't. Sometimes carry a few stones in case!! ... though I've learned to use the 'pretend stone throw' effectively and was saved by it along the invierno. In fact, my pretend stone act must be convincing.. used it here in Aust and the dog's owner rushed out and threatened to report me for animal cruelty. He said he saw the 'stone' fly through the air!Have you tried carrying a small bag of good dog treats....keeping a few of them ever accessible in a pocket for emergencies?
Laurie, one of the attacks was between Villavieja and Las Medulas. The other, I'm not sure, but before A Rua. Sorry for not collecting all the details.... (in 2018). Should I delete my comment?... don't wish to scare anyone without all the evidence. The two pilgrims were both tall, strapping males, veteran walkers.Years ago, I was very involved in the conversation about the big barking mastiff in Villavieja, and I am so glad that has been resolved.
Do you know where the other dogs were that attacked the people you met?
In Chantada, Bar Lucas, near the tourismo, was open for the evening meal, lovely food. I stayed in the Hostal Yoel, Aveda. 17E. Adequate but Don’t recommend.
CHANTADA to RODEIRO. (25.8KM) Taxi for about 9km to Penasillas. Bar opened for me and another pilgrim met briefly here, then didn’t charge for cup of tea. If its closed, knock on the door of house on its right where the owner lives. Lovely lady, bar just not always open.
Hotel Vilaseco sounds ideal, instead of staying in Chantada... for next time. That would make the following day's stage doable for me (19km). Thanks Laurie.If you keep on to the Hotel Vilaseco, it looks to me like there’s a turnoff after A Lucenza and before Vilaseco. Sara’s video describes how she made the mistake of walking all the way into Peñasillás, but luckily the owners came to get her
The walk to Chantada is one to savor, and also one to huff and puff.
This is a perfect description of this stage in a nutshell, Laurie! It was fabulous in all ways: a 10* stage, even if the way up felt a wee bit steep in places. The best day of walking ever, I thought.if the trail is stone in cement, it is a killer on the feet
I stayed here too, and liked it. But after the night before in Torre Vilariño, it felt a bit impersonal.Hotel Mogay
I really lucked out here.Eating in Chantada
Next post...I will leave the descriptions of the vineyards, the river, and the forests to others, but it is really gorgeous.
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