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Via Monastica 2022
Holey moley. That's a huge difference.
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Holey moley. That's a huge difference.It took me exactly 10 minutes (!) from the ermita (where the ascent to Villavieja starts) to join the Camino again outside Borrenes! I know the hike up to Cornatel is highly recommended but... If people need to shorten the stage for some reason, this is the way to go. No dangerous walk on the N-536: you cross it at one point, that's all.
Holey moley. That's a huge difference.
Good to know. Even though I got a little lost and walked on the too dangerous N-536 to finally cross it for the uphill to Villavieja. I wouldn't want to miss the chestnut forest ascent to Cornatel (though I had carefully planned it for a day & time when it would be open, of course it was closed) but the chestnut trees remain a special wonderful place for me. The alternative from Borrenes into Orellan was also especially beautiful.It took me exactly 10 minutes (!) from the ermita (where the ascent to Villavieja starts) to join the Camino again outside Borrenes! I know the hike up to Cornatel is highly recommended but... If people need to shorten the stage for some reason, this is the way to go. No dangerous walk on the N-536: you cross it at one point, that's all.
I've done all three alternatives. It's a tough but rewarding walk up to the castle and Villavieja. Following the N-536 is a definite NONONO. The shortcut from the Ermita is pretty straightforward: a bit steep, but nothing to worry about. I'll see if I can find the screenshot and post it again here.I walked Ponferrada - Puente de Domingo Flórez today. I tried the Camino de Charrito alternative: a shortcut that avoids Villavieja as well as the road N-536.
I knew Charrito had posted screenshots of Google Maps or Wikiloc and posted them somewhere (in this thread?!) but for the life of me I couldn't find them. I remembered more or less what they looked like, and on my own Google Maps I could see most of the shortcut through the woods. So when I got to the Ermita de la Virgen del Carmen de Rioferreiros I gave it a try.
It took me exactly 10 minutes (!) from the ermita (where the ascent to Villavieja starts) to join the Camino again outside Borrenes! I know the hike up to Cornatel is highly recommended but... If people need to shorten the stage for some reason, this is the way to go. No dangerous walk on the N-536: you cross it at one point, that's all.
It's not too difficult, just a short climb after Arnado. Well worth it for the views down over the river, and it's a bit more interesting than the usual route through Villamartín.
I hope your foot is ok. Where are you staying tonight? A Rúa?
Great place, although I nearly always end up in O Pillabán (and a wine-tasting with Juan until the early hours!).Pension Fabio, finally. I haven't stayed there for years because they are always full... This time, I booked it several days in advance to be sure!! Foot not ok, just weird. I am in another café now down by the river walk for "breakfast" just so I can sit down.
Hope your foot is ok.Foot not ok, just weird.
After crossing the damn you turn left and go uphill a bit. At the top, BEFORE that nasty stretch along the road, there's an alternative route to take you into A Rúa.
Good idea!I wonder if I should pull out these posts and make a thread specifically about the alternative from O Barco through Arnado to the dam and then on to A Rúa. I hadn’t heard anything about this till now, and it looks like a very nice diversion!
Surprised to hear that Pensión Fabio has always been booked. I got the impression that I was the only one there beginning of July. Bar Paco which you pass on the left to get to Fabio is open in the morning at 6.15.Off-road into A Rua. But it is marked "Alternativo" on the mojones (instead of the distance to Santiago).
Holey moley. That's a huge difference.
I took this alternative path just a couple of days ago (having previously stayed in Villavieja) and I clocked a full 5km off the stage, making Ponferrada to Domingo Florez more doable in a single day. As you follow the main track around to the right after the Ermita, about 100m beyond is another, much narrower, steep uphill path to your left, don't continue on the main track like I almost did! Weather is atrocious just now on the Invierno but it's all the more beautiful for it..I was surprised. And few people know this. I saw several Wikilocs that avoid Villavieja, but they think they need to follow the road. That is still a huge detour compared to the Camino de Charrito!
A big difference, to be sure. Good to know, especially for repeat offenders on a tight timeline.I clocked a full 5km off the stage
I agree @VNwalking …Villavieja, the albergue, hamlet, beautiful walk up to the castle and Cornatel Castillo itself, are highlights of the Invierno. A great first day 2x for me. And it can be part of a great first day for those walking longer stages.A big difference, to be sure. Good to know, especially for repeat offenders on a tight timeline.
A pity, though, to miss the whole stretch between the gorge below Villavieja, the hamlet, and up to the Castillo. One of the highlights of the whole camino.
I took this alternative path just a couple of days ago (having previously stayed in Villavieja) and I clocked a full 5km off the stage, making Ponferrada to Domingo Florez more doable in a single day. As you follow the main track around to the right after the Ermita, about 100m beyond is another, much narrower, steep uphill path to your left, don't continue on the main track like I almost did! Weather is atrocious just now on the Invierno but it's all the more beautiful for it..
PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR THIS SECOND STAGE:
SLEEPING IN LAS MÉDULAS:
Casa Socorro is closed down (hopefully just temporarily) due to family illness.
The new albergue turístico (La Senda) showed no signs of life at 11 o’clock in the morning last October, but it is functioning, apparently, with an Italian guy and his partner running it.
The Hotel Medulio is pretty basic and, in my view, overpriced.
The Complejo Rural Agoga is fine, but it’s not cheap!
SLEEPING IN ORELLÁN:
There are one or two Casas Rurales in Orellán village. O Palleiro is excellent, and the food there is good too.
EATING/DRINKING IN LAS MÉDULAS:
You need to realise that Las Médulas is a tourist site, but not many people actually spend the night there. Finding a place to eat on a Sunday lunchtime in summer is difficult, due to the masses of people who make their way up there and want to have lunch before going home. In the evenings, Las Médulas becomes a bit of a ghost town (village), with few people about. Therefore, it might be complicated to find too many places open for food, especially outside the summer period.
These are some of the places that you will find in the village:
Bar Tapería O Camiño Real (closed on Wednesdays?): my favourite place!
Mesón Durandarte (closed on Tuesdays?)
Cafetería Restaurante Mari Fe (closed on Thursdays?)
Casa de Comidas Arcadio Travieso (no information?)
Restaurante Agoga (no information)
Hotel Medulio (open daily)
Don’t expect to find much open before 11 o’clock on a normal working day.
ARRIVING IN PUENTE DE DOMINGO FLÓREZ:
For some strange reason the official camino sends you all the way around the town and adds quite some distance to the stage. My suggestion is to turn right along Calle el Toral; this takes you past the main square and brings you out just opposite Bar El Cruce.
SLEEPING IN PUENTE DE DOMINGO FLÓREZ:
The only place is Hostal (NOT Hotel) La Torre, at the end of town, but convenient for the next day’s stage. Reduced prices for pilgrims, and you’ll probably be put up in the annex.
EATING/DRINKING IN PUENTE DE DOMINGO FLÓREZ:
Apart from the hostal bar and restaurant (a decent menu del día), you also have the extremely pilgrim-friendly Bar El Cruce in town.
Café Los Arcos in Calle el Toral has closed down.
There are three decent places to eat/drink near the Día supermarket on Calle Chao do Marco:
Restaurante Thais is closed, as they function as a pub at night and haven’t been able to obtain a licence to open.
El Bom Vita, just round the corner, does a menu del día and has a large terrace.
Mesón La Colmena, in the street parallel to Restaurante Thais, has a nice garden terrace, and does excellent free pinchos. They also have a fairly large number of ‘raciones’ available.
As far as supermarkets are concerned, the biggest one is Día, very close to the hostal on Calle Chao do Marco. There are others (Coviran in Calle el Toral, and Claudio, close to Bar El Cruce).
Silly me ! I Thought that this would be an entire Camino of 25 Kms. As a rapidly deteriorating and disabled pilgie rapidly approaching 86 who thinks that 5km stages are just the job I was bitterly disappointed ! Ah well, Buen Camino to those who blithely toddle on !Thanks, Laurie and everyone who has done this route. The Invierno would be a new route for us which we might do in September2021, if we can find sufficient infrastructure to support our shorter days.
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