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@Bigfrog most of your questions are answered in the above posts. I walked the VDLP in the spring of 2017 and it was bursting in color. I imagine it will be quite different in the Fall. It was hot in early April and I imagine it will be hot in September - if you plan to start in Sevilla. What I found different about the VDLP was the mix of either very short or very long stages. It does take some planning - especially the long stages when you will need to carry extra water and some food. I always took tap water from where I was staying or when I stopped for coffee or lunch and I filled me water bottles at every opportunity to ensure I always had enough. I enjoy a couple of cups of coffee (one early and one mid morning) and found on many occasions that wasn't possible. One day I walked 27 kilometers before the first cup.
I did come across a few people that slept outdoors - I wouldn't call it camping - they slept under the stars and carried food that they had purchased. No-one that I saw cooked or carried anything to cook with. There are some remote locations along this route that would make asking permission almost impossible. I slept out one night and must say - the sky was glorious.
I don't recall any donativos, but I wasn't looking for them either. A slept in a mix of albergues, pensiones, hostels etc and found the prices comparable to the Frances. Food (restaurant) on the other hand was a bit more expensive and wine didn't flow as generously. But you plan to prepare your own so tat is no concern for you.
There is plenty of history along the way - Merida, Zamora, Caceres, Salamanca to name just a few of the big name places. And don't over-look Sevilla if you plan to start there. A great place to explore and recover from jet-lag. There is more to be discovered along the way. I used the Gerald Kelley guide and this forum for my planning.
Enjoy and Buen Camino - Richard
Richard - you say you walked the VDLP last Spring and had the 'bursting with colour' experience. I am going next Spring and am trying to decide when to start. Want to balance avoiding/minimising heat/rain/cold etc!!!! Thinking of starting from Seville in mid-March [arrive Santiago] after Easter. When did you start? and any other advice would be gratefully received.
Simon B
Hi I started in mid April this year. Had been very very wet in March and even in mid April we were fording streams.Richard - you say you walked the VDLP last Spring and had the 'bursting with colour' experience. I am going next Spring and am trying to decide when to start. Want to balance avoiding/minimising heat/rain/cold etc!!!! Thinking of starting from Seville in mid-March [arrive Santiago] after Easter. When did you start? and any other advice would be gratefully received.
Simon B
Hi MarkHi I started in mid April this year. Had been very very wet in March and even in mid April we were fording streams.
By the time I got to Salamanca it was hot after 1-2 pm so earlier starts to do the distances. On the donativo I think 10 -15 euros as many provide a meal. If both dinner and breakfast then 20.
Fantastic history
Use Gronze.com it and Mapme will show you were you are without wifi. Can plot distances easily to the next village.
Enjoy
Happymark
Hello everybody!
I recently found myself between jobs and am contemplating doing the Via de la Plata starting in Sept. I'm an experienced backpacker/trekker, mostly in the wilderness of the mountains of California, so I do have the gear, map reading skill and fitness level to do this route. I've read a lot of posts on this forum already but haven't quite found all the answers I need or the answers are potentially old. If I choose to do this route I do plan on buying the Gerald Kelly guide.
Water - Descriptions say water sources are sometimes far between and to carry more water. Where do people normally get their water from? I always carry a filter so I have no problem getting water from streams or cisterns if they are available.
Albergue - how much on average does it cost to stay in one on this route? I'm vegetarian and don't really drink alcohol so I will probably prepare my own meals.
Places that accept donations for overnight stays - While I am on a budget I don't want to be cheap or disrespectful, how much should I donate?
Camping - I prefer to camp en route and from what I have read it's legal for a single tent for a single night. Of course permission is required for private property and I don't plan on making campfires however I might use an alcohol stove. Any feedback one can provide about camping on this route would be appreciated. Also how much would a fair donation be for setting up a tent on the grounds of an albergue, etc?
Toilets - what do people usually do for their "dirty business"? In the wilderness I usually dig a six inch hole and carry out the toilet paper.
I'm looking for a route with a blend of history/antiquities, culture and natural beauty - is this the best Camino route for me? I've previously hiked the 300 mile/500 km Lycian Way and St. Paul Trail in Turkey and loved every step.
Thanks in advance for any feedback!
A bit off topic but if interested in Lycian Way you might contact @stratophile . He walked it and has some info on his web page (GPS tracks too I think).Hi Mark,
I did the VDLP in 2016 and started at the end of September thinking I would miss the heat but I was surprised how hot it got every day in the afternoon. Like clockwork it started afternoon to one and kept climbing until two or three, and then it didn’t cool down until after five. On many days it hit close to 100 degrees, and on some it hit over 100. Coming from California, which I think you are too, I was fairly use to the heat, but it surprised me how hot it got, even into late October. What everyone has said about bringing lots of water can’t be stressed enough. I actually ended up carrying three or more liters of water on most days, and sometimes that was not enough.
Like you, I love to trekker and do much of my hiking in the Sierras, and regret not taking a tent with me on the Plata. I pulled a two wheeled hiking cart because I have a back injury, so an extra three pound tent is not much, even though I packed like I was carrying it in a backpack and held it down to seventeen pounds. I found myself wanting to walk longer distances some days but found stretches where I had to stop because there was no lodging. I saw so many places were you could stealth camp, unlike the crowded Francis. I ran into two other pilgrims that had camped much of the way and they said they never had an issue.
By the end of October, and closer to Santiago, the weather became cooler and it rained many days. Funny how that happens, but that’s expected and all part of a Camino, as you probably know.
As far as albergues, you will find plenty. I stayed in numerous ones where I had them all to myself. The costs were very similar to the Francis, ranging from €5 to €12 or so. One of the beauties of the Plata is that there are other pilgrims, but a fraction of those on the Francis, and many days I never saw another pilgrim. I just finished the Camino de Madrid to Santiago two months ago and that was the only Camino where I saw fewer pilgrims. From Madrid to Sahagun I only met four other pilgrims.
The Plata is one of my favorite caminos, as so many others have said, and it sounds like you will be prepared for it. You will love it!
Interesting that you have trekked the Lycian Way in Turkey because I plan to do that trek this October. I would love to pick your brain on it, so could you PM me.
Ted
A bit off topic but if interested in Lycian Way you might contact @stratophile . He walked it and has some info on his web page (GPS tracks too I think).
Buen Camino!
We walked VDLP 9/16... I was vegan and had to start eating eggs and some cheese or I would not have eaten much. Having said that, occasionally I had fantastic vegetarian meals. Many of the towns are so tiny.... I also ate lots of nuts! We took a dehydrated peanut butter called PB 8 ( I think that’s the name) and it saved us more than once!!Hello everybody!
I recently found myself between jobs and am contemplating doing the Via de la Plata starting in Sept. I'm an experienced backpacker/trekker, mostly in the wilderness of the mountains of California, so I do have the gear, map reading skill and fitness level to do this route. I've read a lot of posts on this forum already but haven't quite found all the answers I need or the answers are potentially old. If I choose to do this route I do plan on buying the Gerald Kelly guide.
Water - Descriptions say water sources are sometimes far between and to carry more water. Where do people normally get their water from? I always carry a filter so I have no problem getting water from streams or cisterns if they are available.
Albergue - how much on average does it cost to stay in one on this route? I'm vegetarian and don't really drink alcohol so I will probably prepare my own meals.
Places that accept donations for overnight stays - While I am on a budget I don't want to be cheap or disrespectful, how much should I donate?
Camping - I prefer to camp en route and from what I have read it's legal for a single tent for a single night. Of course permission is required for private property and I don't plan on making campfires however I might use an alcohol stove. Any feedback one can provide about camping on this route would be appreciated. Also how much would a fair donation be for setting up a tent on the grounds of an albergue, etc?
Toilets - what do people usually do for their "dirty business"? In the wilderness I usually dig a six inch hole and carry out the toilet paper.
I'm looking for a route with a blend of history/antiquities, culture and natural beauty - is this the best Camino route for me? I've previously hiked the 300 mile/500 km Lycian Way and St. Paul Trail in Turkey and loved every step.
Thanks in advance for any feedback!
Hello everybody!
I recently found myself between jobs and am contemplating doing the Via de la Plata starting in Sept. I'm an experienced backpacker/trekker, mostly in the wilderness of the mountains of California, so I do have the gear, map reading skill and fitness level to do this route. I've read a lot of posts on this forum already but haven't quite found all the answers I need or the answers are potentially old. If I choose to do this route I do plan on buying the Gerald Kelly guide.
Water - Descriptions say water sources are sometimes far between and to carry more water. Where do people normally get their water from? I always carry a filter so I have no problem getting water from streams or cisterns if they are available.
Albergue - how much on average does it cost to stay in one on this route? I'm vegetarian and don't really drink alcohol so I will probably prepare my own meals.
Places that accept donations for overnight stays - While I am on a budget I don't want to be cheap or disrespectful, how much should I donate?
Camping - I prefer to camp en route and from what I have read it's legal for a single tent for a single night. Of course permission is required for private property and I don't plan on making campfires however I might use an alcohol stove. Any feedback one can provide about camping on this route would be appreciated. Also how much would a fair donation be for setting up a tent on the grounds of an albergue, etc?
Toilets - what do people usually do for their "dirty business"? In the wilderness I usually dig a six inch hole and carry out the toilet paper.
I'm looking for a route with a blend of history/antiquities, culture and natural beauty - is this the best Camino route for me? I've previously hiked the 300 mile/500 km Lycian Way and St. Paul Trail in Turkey and loved every step.
Thanks in advance for any feedback!
Hi BigFrog,
I plan on walking the Via de la Plata - starting this Septiembre. I also have some experience with camping and hiking outdoors (mainly on the AT); and have had similar questions as you, especially with regards to "tenting", I have not yet fully decided.
If your decide to walk the VDLP, I hope our paths cross; if not, I wish you well in whatever you decide and on whatever route your take.
Hasta...,
Dominick
Hola,Hola Dominick!
When do you think you might start? Are you planning on starting at Seville? I still have not made a final decision either but I'm thinking mid-Sept.
Hi bigfrog,
I started the Via de la Plata on September 18th 2008 and can remember that it was very hot at this time. Later, in October in the Salamanca area we had already frosty nights, so prepare for both.
The most albergues in the south (alba plata project) cost at about 15 €/night and sometimes provide a simple breakfast. In Galicia the public albergues now charge 6 € and most of the private ones 10-12 €. This should also be a guide-line when staying in donativo albergues.
There are some very long stretches without water, e. g. between Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almadén de la Plata you can not be sure to get some water from the forrest house in the middle and the places where the animals drink may also have run dry. Similar situation at the Alcantara lake where a german pilgrim died from heat stroke/Dehydration only a couple of days ago. Other long stretches with nothing in between which I can remember are between Villafranca de los Barros and Torremejía (27 km) and Fuenterroble de Salvatierra and San Pedro de Rozados (29 km, with one farm house after 21 km - but can you be sure, that the owner is at home to supply you with water if necessary?). I always took 3 litres of water with me.
Wild Camping in the dehesas can be quite a challenge. Only do so if you like the company of the semi-wild black pigs. Places which seemed to be a good and dry campground can be flooded by nightly thunderstorms. I would not take a tent. Most times albergues are in good walking distances. The only problem could arise in the "arco di Caparra"-area but there you may just wait until the visitor´s centre has closed and then sleep under their front-roof.
BC Alexandra
Question for those who walked long stages or slept outside. Was it because there were no alternative places to sleep, such as hostels, pensiones or hotels, or because there was absolutely no other choice ? We also trekked the Frances in fall/winter and had zero problems with finding alburgues and have read that along the Plata, new ones/refurbished ones are opening with each passing year. true or false? We will be starting the Plata around October 1, 2019.
Buen Camino !
Hola Amigos,Question for those who walked long stages or slept outside. Was it because there were no alternative places to sleep, such as hostels, pensiones or hotels, or because there was absolutely no other choice ? We also trekked the Frances in fall/winter and had zero problems with finding alburgues and have read that along the Plata, new ones/refurbished ones are opening with each passing year. true or false? We will be starting the Plata around October 1, 2019.
Buen Camino !
Hola, of course it is possible, because many have already walked the VDLP. I probably averaged between 25 & 30 kpd. Most-all the people that I met were able to finish the VDLP; some just finished faster than others. If you realistically & practically plan your days; plus with your experience on the CF, you should be ok. I used Gerald Kelly's guide book for most-all of my planning; it is not perfect. but it works. CiaoWhat distance do you walk per day @Dominick ? I am not able to do more then 20-25 per day and I was wondering If its possible to do the VDLP.
I meant ‘possible for us’ ofcHola, of course it is possible, because many have already walked the VDLP.
Which stretches are you talking about?I meant ‘possible for us’ ofc
I didn’t find any backpack transport yet on the vdlp, only Sanabres, and the few stretches above 25 and up to 39 worry me. They will be absolutely impossible for us so If we can’t find a solution for those, the vdlp will be impossible for us (due to medical reasons).
Hola,Information here is very useful for me too - thank you everyone.
Most people seem to start the VDLP in September or April. I'm planning to start March 1st. I like colder weather and prefer to avoid very hot temperatures so am hoping March will suit me. Does anyone have any thoughts about the VDLP in March?
My thoughts are that it is an excellent idea.Does anyone have any thoughts about the VDLP in March?
I was on the vldp earlier this year and met 2 separate pilgrims who were only able to walk about 20 kms a day ,,so would catch a taxi ,,,perhaps a bus if possible,,ahead from the nights albergue to a point leaving then a 20 km walk to the next nights albergue ,,,, easily done !!!!!For example
Castilblanco - Almaden,
Villafranca de los Barros - Torremejia
Casar de Cacares - Cañaveral,
Cañaveral - Galisteo
Olivia de Plasencia - Banos de Montemayor
Banos de Montemayor - Fuenterroble
Fuenterroble - SAN Pedro
I meant ‘possible for us’ ofc
I didn’t find any backpack transport yet on the vdlp, only Sanabres, and the few stretches above 25 and up to 39 worry me. They will be absolutely impossible for us so If we can’t find a solution for those, the vdlp will be impossible for us (due to medical reasons).
For example
Castilblanco - Almaden,
Villafranca de los Barros - Torremejia
Casar de Cacares - Cañaveral,
Cañaveral - Galisteo
Olivia de Plasencia - Banos de Montemayor
Banos de Montemayor - Fuenterroble
Fuenterroble - SAN Pedro
WoW, just WOW!I am copying below a response I made on an old thread, which addresses all of those sections. The VDLP is still quite do-able for people like me who prefer not to walk more than 25 km/day.
Hola Karin,For example
Castilblanco - Almaden,
Villafranca de los Barros - Torremejia
Casar de Cacares - Cañaveral,
Cañaveral - Galisteo
Olivia de Plasencia - Banos de Montemayor
Banos de Montemayor - Fuenterroble
Fuenterroble - SAN Pedro
I am copying below a response I made on an old thread, which addresses all of those sections. The VDLP is still quite do-able for people like me who prefer not to walk more than 25 km/day. The problem is that it is not always possible to select the exact number of km you want to walk. Sometimes you need to pick a shorter day than you really need, in order to manage the following day(s). Of course, if you want shorter days, you need more days!
It is helpful if you speak Spanish, enjoy a logistic challenge or two, and are somewhat flexible in your approach. It would be rather difficult to plan every day and accommodation weeks in advance. You need to check some places on the day before, in order to avoid getting stuck somewhere.
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km)
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km)
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km)- Easy to shorten by taking taxi for first 16 km to park entrance.
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km)
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km)
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km)
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km)
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km)
Day 9 -- Torremejia (28 km)- You can go off camino to Almendralejo, making 2 shorter days.
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km)
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km)
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km)
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km)- You can stop after 27 km, in Valdesalor, 11 km before Caceres, or even Aldea del Cano.
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km)
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km)- Now the albergue is open at Embalse de Alcantara, 21 km after Casar.
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km)- You can go via Riolobos and make 2 days.
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km)
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km)- Or arrange pickup at Ventaquemada for Oliva, or at Caparra for Hostal Asturias.
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km)- There are several ways to break this up including Hostal Asturias, Aldeanueva, Hervas.
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33km)- There are options to stop before here e.g. Valverde de Valedlacasa.
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km)
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km)
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km)
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km)- You can break in half at El Cubo or stop 6 km later at Casa Saso.
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km)
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km)
Day 27 -- Granja de Moreruela (22 km)
After Granja, I went north to Astorga because of time limitations, so I can't help with the stages on the Camino Sanabres.
Hi, Peter,How typical is the current weather in Seville and northwards on the VDLP? I walked the Portugues in September this year and really didn't enjoy it - it was far too hot, in the low to mid 30s for most of the me, whereas the weather in Seville for the next few days at least - sunny and n the mid to high teens - looks good for walking.
And are there many albergues etc open in the winter months?
Peter
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