Route advice September

[GigiO]

Hi, I'll be dropping my daughter off in Barcelona on August 30/September 1 for university, and my flight back to the US isn't until Sept. 23, so that gives me roughly 20 days to walk my first Camino. I've considered the Portuguese and Primitivo for their length. I know they are vastly different routes. I am open to almost any route. The draw for me is scenery and history. I live in a flat coastal area so that interests me least, as I would like to experience terrain and vistas that are less familiar to me. One of my main considerations is that I would prefer to not book accommodations in advance. I like the idea of having the flexibility to do shorter days if I choose, and taking a more leisurely pace if I feel inclined. I'm hoping in September that might be a realistic option. Looking for insight and suggestions.

 

[dbier]

Well...is it important to do an "entire" Camino? And what's your no kidding, look in the mirror, how far can you walk in a day, for several days in a row?

TBH, starting on the Camino Frances from Leon or Astorga (depending on planes, trains. and automobiles from Barcelona) and staying in offstage places would give you a lot of scenery, history, and flexibility.

Form what I've read of the Primitivo (I hope to walk in Sep of 2023, God willing), very scenic, but there are longer stretches with no accommodations. May limit your abilities to walk up and get a bed, or shorten your stages on a wish.

Can't comment on the Portugues, so I'll let the more experienced take that one.

Buen Camino!

 

[C clearly]

Do you care about reaching Santiago? Are you comfortable functioning in Spanish? Can you walk 30-35 km if necessary?

If your Spanish is limited and you want to be able to take random short days, I agree with the suggestion from @dbier that you start the Camino Frances in Leon. If that leaves you with spare time, you can always walk on to Finisterre. (Just don't start the Camino Frances in SJPP, Roncesvalles or Pamplona if you want to stay ahead of the September crowds from those points.)

 

[oursonpolaire]

One possibility is to head out of Montserrat, in the hills above Barcelona-- a traditional Camino departure point. The Camino goes through old Catalan towns such as Igualada and Cervera to Balaguer. It's not quite 20 days to Jaca, from which you will be able to visit San Juan de la Pena, then head off to your departure point. Another year you can recommence and head down the Camino Aragonese. The distances between stages do not allow of much flexibility and accommodation needs to be planned a bit more than on the Frances.

 

[Susan Peacock]

As suggested above, as a first Camino I would start in Leon or Astorga. Unless, you are used to long distance hiking alone, in a foreign country with not as many accommodations/food/water options I would not start with some of the more remote Camino's. September on the Frances is busy, but as a single you should be able to avoid booking ahead. You will get a feel for how busy it is, and may decide to call ahead. The municipals and parochial albergues do not take reservations, so if you aim to get there early in the afternoon you will generally be fine.

 

[C clearly]

September on the Frances is busy

The crowds start in SJPP in early September. If @GigiO starts at that time in Leon, she will be 2 or 3 weeks ahead of the pack, and there should be lots of accommodation getting ready for the surge.

 

[Susan Peacock]

The crowds start in SJPP in early September. If @GigiO starts at that time in Leon, she will be 2 or 3 weeks ahead of the pack, and there should be lots of accommodation getting ready for the surge.

agree

 

[DoughnutANZ]

starting on the Camino Frances from Leon or Astorga (depending on planes, trains. and automobiles from Barcelona) and staying in offstage places would give you a lot of scenery, history, and flexibility.

I think that this is an excellent suggestion for your situation.

The Frances is busy at the beginning of September BUT that busy wave starts back in St. Jean. By starting in Leon or Astorga you will be well ahead of the wave and you will not have issues finding a bed.

 

[GigiO]

Thank you all. I appreciate the insight and am definitely considering the Frances from Leon or Astorga. I think my family might feel better about a more well traveled route too.

 

[FRM]

Astorga could be a rough place to start depending on your physical condition. It basically two days uphill then a potentially difficult day downhill out of Astorga. Though it is a beautiful walk and you pass Cruz de Ferro.

Frm

 

[david g]

How about beginning in Somport? You’ll have mountains (downhill) on day one and I’d imagine it not crowded. You’ll tie in with the Frances at Puenta la Reina which will give you the experience of walking with more pilgrims.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

When restricted by time because of work the route from Leon to SdC served me wonderfully. I used to go from Leon to Muxia/Fisterre in about 16 days. So let's say you have 20 days of walking available, you should have plenty of flexibility. As far as the booking ahead, well I personally like to so I have a plannned destination and I know I have a room or a bed. Other people don't, so that's just a personal preference thing.

Buen Camino.

 

[VNwalking]

The draw for me is scenery and history.

If you are fit, consider starting in LEon and walking the San Salvador/Primitivo. Chockablock with both scenery (the SS especially - it's mountains), and very old history. Clustered around Oviedo are a number of pre-Romanesque churches. Here is a link to a thread here that describes some of them.

Alternatively, walking out of Leon on the Frances as far as Ponferrada then taking the Invierno to Santiago from there would be a gentler alternative. The Invierno follows a Roman route, going through Las Medulas and the Ribera Sacra - where they grew grapes for wine and where vines have been cultivated in the millennia since. There's more recent history too as the latter area has some lovely Romanesque churches, like this one at Diamondi, with it's wonderful porticos. There is now an albergue there.
View media item 9686View media item 9682View media item 9683The Vasco/Via de Bayona is also a wonderful camino, from Irun to Burgos following an old Roman Route, but it is only 7-8 days.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

If you are fit, consider starting in LEon and walking the San Salvador/Primitivo. Chockablock with both scenery (the SS especially - it's mountains), and very old history. Clustered around Oviedo are a number of pre-Romanesque churches. Here is a link to a thread here that describes some of them.

Alternatively, walking out of Leon on the Frances as far as Ponferrada then taking the Invierno to Santiago from there would be a gentler alternative. The Invierno follows a Roman route, going through Las Medulas and the Ribera Sacra - where they grew grapes for wine and where vines have been cultivated in the millennia since. There's more recent history too as the latter area has some lovely Romanesque churches, like this one at Diamondi, with it's wonderful porticos. There is now an albergue there.
View media item 9686View media item 9682View media item 9683

Oooh. That's a good alternative too. San Salvador is tough and sparse tho, but it's only 3-4 days. So are you like fit or not? If fit, that's a viable alternative to the Frances... if not so fit, I would reco the Frances. I have no experience on the invierno however....

 

[trecile]

San Salvador is tough and sparse tho, but it's only 3-4 days.

Maybe 3 - 4 days for you, but I took 5, and I think that 6 would have been more comfortable.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Yah. For me. True. I mean sometimes I really work out and train before going. She has time tho, maybe she is one of those fit moms... I mean she kinda sounds like it,

 

[GigiO]

maybe she is one of those fit moms... I mean she kinda sounds like it,

I'm glad I at least sound like it! I'm older, but active. I walk 5 miles on my regular loop, but it's Florida flat. I'm upping my miles over the next three to four weeks and planning some long weekend hauls. I need to do two back to back 15 mile days. I just wish it wasn't July in Florida hot...

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Astorga could be a rough place to start depending on your physical condition. It basically two days uphill then a potentially difficult day downhill out of Astorga. Though it is a beautiful walk and you pass Cruz de Ferro.

Frm

Astorga to Foncebadón is a steady, gentle incline, see gronze.com



If it is your first day walking then listen to your body and consider stopping in Rabanal del Camino or even earlier. There are lots of choices for accommodation.

 

[dbier]

If your daughter is just going to university now....you're probably younger than many of us.

An additional observation is how comfortable you are with trail/ way making. The Frances? Not hard ( at least the well traveled bit I walked). The Salvador? It's reputation is a bit harder ( which is why I'm sticking to the Primitivo next year) .

IMHO, if you want maximum flexibility in how long or short you want your days to be and still have a roof over your head at night, I stand by my original suggestion. But I admit that I have much less Camino experience than most.

 

[VNwalking]

I'm upping my miles over the next three to four weeks and planning some long weekend hauls.

Try stairs in a tall-ish building. That will give you a hilly workout, perhaps even with aircon.

 

[Sunbun]

Try stairs in a tall-ish building. That will give you a hilly workout, perhaps even with aircon

second that. Find an aircon building in Florida with stairs to train. Those who only walk flats are sorry when the hills come.

 

[Lindy Loo]

Hi, I'll be dropping my daughter off in Barcelona on August 30/September 1 for university, and my flight back to the US isn't until Sept. 23, so that gives me roughly 20 days to walk my first Camino. I've considered the Portuguese and Primitivo for their length. I know they are vastly different routes. I am open to almost any route. The draw for me is scenery and history. I live in a flat coastal area so that interests me least, as I would like to experience terrain and vistas that are less familiar to me. One of my main considerations is that I would prefer to not book accommodations in advance. I like the idea of having the flexibility to do shorter days if I choose, and taking a more leisurely pace if I feel inclined. I'm hoping in September that might be a realistic option. Looking for insight and suggestions.

I did Sarria to Santiago for my first Camino experience and it was fantastic. A little over 110ks if I recall so I included the Finesterre leg after I went to the Pilgrim mass in the Cathedral on the Friday. I can highly recommend this. Accommodation was freely available along the way. Bien Camino.

 

[Ronald Boivin]

Hi, I'll be dropping my daughter off in Barcelona on August 30/September 1 for university, and my flight back to the US isn't until Sept. 23, so that gives me roughly 20 days to walk my first Camino. I've considered the Portuguese and Primitivo for their length. I know they are vastly different routes. I am open to almost any route. The draw for me is scenery and history. I live in a flat coastal area so that interests me least, as I would like to experience terrain and vistas that are less familiar to me. One of my main considerations is that I would prefer to not book accommodations in advance. I like the idea of having the flexibility to do shorter days if I choose, and taking a more leisurely pace if I feel inclined. I'm hoping in September that might be a realistic option. Looking for insight and suggestions.

Consider the Camino Mozarabe from Almeria to Grenada to visit the Alhambra. About ten days walk with followed support from the pilgrim association Jacobea from Almeria. .

 

[Nandy61]

I have walked the CF from StJPP, from Burgos and Leon (several times each) I have also walked the Primitivo and the CP Central. If you really want the full package experience, walk from Leon to Santiago and if the weather is nice (which it usually is in September) make your way out to Finisterre. The Primitivo, though absolutely beautiful, is no cake walk. Dozens of folks in my "wave" grabbed taxis each day or simply left altogether. Albergues in some places are much more spread out than on the CF. And the "spirit" of the Camino is not as palpable as it is on the CF, IMO (with Bodenaya the obvious exception!) Having said all that - I LOVED it, and hoping to go back again soon. I mention the different lengths of walks up above to underscore the ability to have a rich Camino experience with "just" a 2 week walk. Two weeks still allows your body to adjust; it also affords you the time to mentally transform. And equally important, 2 weeks allows you the time to develop wonderful relationships (if you choose) with your fellow pilgrims- one of the great gifts of the Camino. By the way, I also walked the Camino Ignaciano solo and know the Cervera/Igualada area well, as it uses the same route, yet heading towards Monserrat. It is absolutely stunning. The Catalan people a delight (as is their wine!!) But, I met two pilgrims in 4 weeks. So unless you are into solitude and deep reflection, I wouldn't recommend the Catalan for one's first Camino.

 

[Karl Oz]

The Sanabres might be a viable option for you. From memory it was just over two weeks of walking, which fits within your time budget. Quite a mixture of terrain, and is not as patronised as the CF, so bookings are less likely to be necessary. It comprises a mixture of different Spanish countrysides.