SE Queensland Pilgrims

[OZRussell]

Hi to all, I'm new to the site/forum and was wondering if there are any Camino enthusiasts here in SE Queensland, especially around the Sunshine Coast? I am preparing to walk the via Toulouse commencing at Arles, and hopefully, ten weeks later arrive in Santiago de Compostela. I am planning on beginning the pilgrimage on the 6th of September, arriving in Santiago sometime in the middle of November.
I am a reformed couch potato who was inspired into activity with the dream of walking the Camino. I began preparing in August last year doing 4 km on my first day. Last Sunday I did my first 26 km walk, which included a few hundred feet of altitude. I now walk several days a week averaging 16 km each walk.
Is it normal for the bottom of the feet to become so painful (no blisters thankfully) and is there a way to manage that better? I have upgraded the soles in my shoes and tried a variety of socks and the result is generally similar. I am amazed at how quickly the soles of my feet recover and in just a few hours feel quite normal, even ready to take another long walk the next day, the body is amazing!
I am all ears, so as to speak. Any advice about the feet will be gratefully received and if anyone has walked Arles to Santiago, any advice or information would be greatly appreciated. I'm also keen to connect with any 'local' pilgrims as well. Looking forward to following the happening of the forum.
Russell

 

[jl]

Welcome Russell, You will enjoy this way. I have done it from Toulouse - and I believe it is very beautiful (and "wild")prior to there. I had foot problems on my first Camino and on my return went to a sports podiatrist who recommended orthotics. I was a bit doubtful, never having had problems before, but he assured me that the next time the orthotics would "cradle" my feet and that I shouldn't have any problems at all. He was right!

Hope you are safe where you are. We are all thinking of everyone up in QLD - the footage we are seeing is quite extraordinary, and now the Vics are having the same problem - at least the Murray is getting a good flush out!

Take care, Janet

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Is it normal for the bottom of the feet to become so painful (no blisters thankfully) and is there a way to manage that better? I have upgraded the soles in my shoes and tried a variety of socks and the result is generally similar. I am amazed at how quickly the soles of my feet recover and in just a few hours feel quite normal, even ready to take another long walk the next day, the body is amazing! Russell

Russell, I know I used to get sore on the bottom of my feet when 'training', especially when I walked on roads. Then when I started walking the actual Camino, it happened for about the first ten days. After that it seemed to ease off. I figured that by then my brain had decided I was going to keep walking anyhow, so it may as well stop complaining! (It all returned to normal once I had finished the Camino.)
Margaret

 

[Canuck]

Janet is right again.
Orthotics are the answer.
I speak from experience, having felt the same burning sensation during my first walk. It has not reappeared in the following (at least 12) with the proper foot device.

Your podiatrist is your best friend(apart from your feet),
Jean-Marc

 

[kaylfrazer]

I am not convinced about orthotics.. I think there is a bit of luck involved in getting the right ones.. see this New York times article http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/01/17/do-orthotics-really-help/?partner=rss&emc=rss that I read yesterday. While training for my first camino I had lots of knee problems and was told to get get orthotics properly fitted. I did this, but at the end of my first day on the camino I was in so much pain that I took them out and never had another problem. On my second camino, I was standing watching a fiesta in Belorado on day 10 when I noticed that my feet were no longer burning and throbbing. I am back training again now and would love to find a way around the foot pain.. but haven't yet. :?

 

[OZRussell]

Thanks all for your suggestions. I haven't gone down the 'Ortho' track, but will look into it. I noticed this week, after having walked the 26 km last weekend, my feet seemed to handle the 18 km walks much better. Where I was struggling at 15km previously, my feet only became sore at about the 17 km mark. I also found that I was much better able to handle the 18 km walk.
Any suggestions as to when I should begin to practice walking with my pack (taking into account heat and humidity here in SE Queensland)?
I have read several arguments about whether to take an umbrella or not. I recently read in Dee Nolan's new book "A Food Lover's Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compestela" that her "experienced" local guide made an umbrella a priority?
One more question (for this post), what can I expect weather wise on the mountain passes during September (France) and October/November (Spain)?
In anticipation, many thanks.
Russell

 

[kaylfrazer]

Hi Russell.. I am getting less tolerant of heat as I get older, and I don't like hats so I am going to try taking an umbrella this time in June as I walk from le Puy. Not sure how I will work this with my hiking sticks.. either I will take only one, or I will just retire one to my pack as the sun gets hotter though the day.
My experience is only of the mountains closest to S d C in mid October. I wore a spare pair of socks over my hands and my sarong wrapped around my head for a few days but didn't otherwise need much more than I had been wearing up till then.

 

[Debinq]

There I was for a mo' thinking the "Ortho track" was a new walk I hadn't heard about yet !! (ha ha)

Nothing can be better than well-worn-in boots methinks - and that takes several 100km to find out about I'd say - at the time I was training for my camino (in 2006) I was living in NQ - the Castle Hill goat tracks in Tvl were my training walks! Back in SE Q (Bris) now after a stint in Sinny last year and now gearing up for the C Mozarabe from Grenada and Cordoba in late Sept/Oct ....

anyway, good luck Russell ... hope it all comes together for you

rgds

Peter

 

[OZRussell]

Funny Peter, I wondered when I wrote it if someone would pick up on it. Kaylfrazer, thanks for your feedback, I came across a German company that manufactures a hands free light weight umbrella, desiged for backpackers who want to walk and use two walking poles. Check out this link, click on the picture and it will take through to the manufactures website.
http://www.thegearcaster.com/the_gearca ... rella.html
Would love feedback from from any of the experienced walkers reagrding this. I appreciate the weight issue. But it might be worth the extra weight?
Russell

 

[kaylfrazer]

Love the picture Russell.. I had actually thought of trying to rig up something like that before my first camino but was later glad that I hadn't bothered as I generally left early in the mornings and was at my destination before the hottest part of the day. I am not so sure that that will be possible with my next camino. I have a light travel umbrella that has already seen a bit of wear so will probably take it and jettison it if I don't use it. On my only practice walk with it so far I actually found it helpful to hold the umbrella as it stopped my hands swelling (although of course poles do that too).
Kay

 

[jl]

Just a quick comment Russell re training. I read somewhere, and I cannot remember where, before I did my first Camino in 2005 that it really wasn't necessary to walk a Camino before one actually left! I took that on board and only walked around the block (a 5km, hilly one though!). As I got fitter I also changed and race walked it, just to increase my aerobic fitness. Before walking on the Le Puy path I resorted to a couple of long, hilly walks with a pack, but generally I don't bother with a pack - I am going to be walking long enough with one and because of my bushwalking and Camino experience I don't need to have practice at feeling it on my back. I know others feel differently, but just thought I would give my point of view. regards, Janet

 

[sharon w]

Hi Russell. We had perfect weather for all but three days, walking from SJPDP to Santiago in September/October, 2007. One of those not so good days was going over OCebreiro but the rain, wind and cold seemed to fit the location. Hope the weather is great for you. We are still tossing up when to go in 2012 to walk from Le Puy. As we have walked 2 caminos in Sept/Oct, we are thinking of late spring/ early summer.
Might see you out walking when we are up on the Sunshine Coast.
Sharon

 

[Llew]

Hi Russell,
I live in Noosa and am planning to walk the Camino from SJPDP May/June 2012.
Would like to catch up and have a chat sometime.
You can contact me at llewp@tpg.com.au

Cheers
Llew

 

[jl]

Russell I have always begun wlaking in France in summer and ended in Santiago on or around the 14 Oct. Thus I can't answer for waht it is like in late Oct / Nov from experience though freinds have walked at that time in Galicia and have encounted continual rain and even snow. I have had (the three times I have walked in Galicia ) a few days of overcast / occasional drizzle, and one day in Santiago when it rained. Cold and frosty - but generally fine, and so arriving mid Oct works well for me. In France in summer it can be very hot and humid too. I have often walked in 36 -38 degree heat. In the south of France the thunder clouds gather mid aftenoon, and apart from the odd day of severe thunder there were only about two days of rain in the three times I have wlaked there. Mind you I have only walked from Toulouse on the Arles path.

Hope your plans are going well ,and yours too Llew. Keep your eye open for a post about the launch of our "confraternity" that we are about to start - who knows we might have our credential sorted so that you can take an Aussie one!. Cheers, Janet

 

[sharon w]

Hi Llew. I have sent you a PM. Might see you in Noosa.
Sharon

 

[OZRussell]

Hi to all again. Thanks for the heads up on the weather. It seems like it's a mixed bag, and as much as possible be prepared for almost anything! I have made a point of walking in as many types of weather as possible. I am a little short on snow up here on the Sunshine Coast. I'm not so sure about doing little to prepare for the Camino. I have been walking 18km three mornings a week and am now doing it in 45 minutes less than my first 18 km walk. But, as I found out on the weekend, that is a far cry from a 28km walk with a weighted back pack.
You might remember that I was having trouble with my feet. They have got a little tougher and I put some cushioned inserts into my shoes as well as wearing Injinji socks. The combination has worked a treat. The feet are handling the distance, but when I completed my walk on Sunday I was worse for wear. I was using my brand new back pack, and was using one for the first time since I was in Boy Scouts. I managed to rub some very raw patches all over my back. I completed the walk in 7hours, but hell was I spent!!! I can only imagine what people go through who haven't prepared to do the walk.
Besides which I am loving the preperation. I have been walking all over the Sunshine Coast and have seen some fantastic scenery and sunrises. I get to talk to lots of interesting people (I do stand out with my walking poles) and I can't remember a time when I have felt as healthy. I have dropped several kg in weight and actually look forward to my walks. It's a far cry from my more sedate life eight months ago.
Llew, I'll send you a PM.
Take care all, Russell

 

[Debinq]

wow Russell - v impressive feats of prep - sounds like you'll bowl the real thing over in no time flat! Hope you 'do' the C Aragon as part of yr itinerary - enter Spain over Somport pass, that is! I'm sure you'll find the scenery very arresting and worth-while!

I'm still on track for a late Sept start (from Grenada via Cordoba etc) - haven't been 'training' yet on account of the (sort of hot) weather in Bris of late - except for an almost daily (late afternoon) saunter via Goodwill Bridge, thru Botanic Gdns around the CBd by the river and over the Storey bridge back home to Highgate Hill along the K'roo Pt cliffs; I''ll start being a little more serious when the weather cools down - in April or so.

buen camino companero 'nana-bender'

Peter

 

[OZRussell]

Hope you 'do' the C Aragon as part of yr itinerary - enter Spain over Somport pass, that is! I'm sure you'll find the scenery very arresting and worth-while!
Peter

Hi Peter,
Know that area really well, I lived in the appartments next to the Story Bridge/Fosters in 2007. Walked and rode all over that area.
I am planning on doing the C Aragon, but I have a question. Should I catch the bus from Accours to Forges d'Abel as suggested or do you recommend walking, and if so what route did you take?
I would love to catch up sometime when I'm in Brisbane. I'd love to pick your brain about your experience and knowledge of the Camino. Let me know if you would be interested in doing that and what would be a good time to catch up.
Regards, Russell

 

[Debinq]

Hi Russell
Yes, it's a particularly nice part of Bris around the river there! Happy to meet one day - plse send me a PM with a day or two notice when you're next intending to be in Bris.

Not at all sure abt what the situation is on the French side of the border - Altho' I initially intended to start from Oloron Ste Marie (near Pau) I took a bus from Barcelona to Jaca,stayed in the alberge there one night and then took an early am. bus next day from Jaca to Somport (approx 90mins) and then walked back down to Jaca again via Canfranc and Villanua; then, after another night in Jaca alberge -where I encountered the guy WITH THE LOUDEST EVER proverbial 'raise-the-dead' frickin' snore- (ARGHHH) from Jaca to Sta Cilia (with a 'side trip' to the fantastic monastery at San Juan d/l Pena - via Sta Cruz d/l Seros) and onwards to Puenta d/l Reina where the C Aragones joins C Frances.
rgds
Peter

 

[Debinq]

Russell
I think the French call it the Piemont Route their side of the border - starting in Lourdes
How's yr French? attached url may be helpful

http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/spip/Bor ... ml?lang=fr

rgds
P

 

[jl]

The Piemont route starts in Narbonne and goes through Carcossonne running more or less parralell to the Arles route (but closer to the Pyrenees) which it intersects at Oloron St Marie, after going through Lourdes and then continues onto St Jean Pied de Port. There is a Rando edition guide called "le Chemin du Piemont Pyreneen . de la Mediterranee a Roncevaux" (in French of course). Janet

 

[OZRussell]

Janet, is there a dedicated walking path like the GR653 on that more southern route that you referred to? I was particularly interested in walking that route because of my personal interest in the Cathars. I was told that too much of that route was on roads. What can you tell me?
Russell

 

[jl]

hi Russell, I am away from home at the moment and so don't have the guide book in front of me to check it out for you. Many of the paths in France are on roads, but they are usually very quiet roads where the only thing that might pass you is a farmer on a tractor, or someone heading off to their village on a pushbike. Occasionly you might find yourself on a really busy road. I know that on the way from Toulouse there was a mixture of forest paths, remarkably quiet D roads (surfaced) and quiet gravel roads. I would imagine that would be the case with the part before Toulouse too, but I haven't walked that way.

When walking in France it seems to me you have 2 options (three in the case of the Vezelay path). You either choose to cobble together the GR paths which go through the less habitated areas, taking along the view points, or alternatively follow the Chemin St Jacques. This tend to take you the most direct route, which sometimes entails walking alon the roads, and generally goes through every village on the path. They are usually well signed and I find them very easy to negotiate.

I will check out the guide book, but as it is in French I will have to use the maps to see what I can figure out for you.

By the way, in answer to a previous post about training I made the comment that one shouldn't walk the Camino before you go. I didn't meant to not train - I train, but I just walk around my very hilly block for 5kms and try and get aerobically fit. As the time gets closer I sometimes extend that to walking 10 - 15 kms. I just then spend the first week walking myself "into" the camino - slowly. Hope this giives you some ideas anyway, cheers, Janet

 

[dougfitz]

Russell,

You seem to be getting a lot of fairly good advice, so I will keep my comments short. I walked from SJPdP in late Mar 2010. I used the Canberra International Two Day Walk preparation and then did the 42km on the first day before departing for the Camino - see http://www.aussiewalk.com.au/training.htm for details. You will see that they only do the longer distances once a week, doing a range of shorter and more mixed walks for the other days. This gives the body a chance to recover from all that micro-damage one does with intense training.

When I was training, I used a mix of boots, including the pair that I eventually used for the Camino. These were a pair of Scarpa leather boots with a Vibram sole - very robust, waterproof, very hard sole that is murder on paved roads and footpaths, but well worn in over several years and six continents. I also used conventional trainers and a very light Hi-Tec boot with a softer, more compressible sole that was easier on the soles of my feet but considerably less durable (typically about 4000km of training). I was also breaking in a pair of high end Columbia boots, but these weren't ready in time for the trip, which is why I ended up using the Scarpas.

The key here is to wear your boots in, nor wear them out.

NB - my advice would be to choose a softer sole - there is a lot of walking on paved roads, concrete footpaths and the like. If you are having issues, consider a compressible heel insert or replacing the inner sole with one of the purpose made trekking soles.

Umbrella - mixed views. A good rain jacket provides insulation and some wind resistance. My experience was that both were good to have at the time that I walked. I also carried rain pants and wore them on several days. Without them, wet pants just dribble water into one's boots, and walking like that can be very unpleasant. I carried gaiters, and used them as well and they gave some wind protection to my shins, but not between the bottom of my rain jacket, and my knees.

buen camino

Doug

 

[jl]

my advice would be to choose a softer sole

... I did choose a softer sole last time and found that after 1,600 kms (should have been at aroun1,200kms) I had to buy new boots - still with 400 kms to go. Wheras I wore Scarpa boots with a harder vibram sole and walked 1,600 kms previously and still had another 5 - 600 kms left in them. I actually chose not to take them as it would have meant that I would have had to have bought new boots part way through and thinking that wasn't a good idea opted for new, and different brand, boots. I had to buy new ones because the others were worn right down flat, and worst of all what I call "the Bounce" had gone out of them which meant that my feet were terribly tired at the end of each day - not damaged in any way, but they felt worn out - all good though when I bought new boots and had a ceremonial dumping of the old! New boots weren't a problem - these days they can generally be put on and worn without the necessity to "wear them in" as was necessary 30 years ago when the soles and the uppers were so rigid and unforgiving. Don't get me wrong - care needs to be taken, and indeed I carried my old boots for 3 days "just in case"! - but never needed them. regards, Janet

 

[dougfitz]

Janet,

your story illustrates the trade-off that hiking boot makers, and then we as consumers, face, and there clearly isn't a perfect answer. I was in the position where I would not have used my Scarpas because I had been told there was quite a lot of pavement on the Camino Frances. I did so because the other boots that I was breaking in started to crease right across my toes on longer walks, and I assessed they needed more shorter walks to soften them up than I could achieve before I left.

I agree that many of the lighter boots with lots of mesh and fabric don't seem to need as much breaking in, and there are some more supple leathers in brands like Timberland and Merrill, but I wouldn't want to rely on that if I didn't have to. It was great that you had no problems, but I must admit my experience was different.

As an aside, I fitness walk competitively, and it would be unusual for a shoe to last more than six-seven months without losing its 'bounce' and needing to be replaced. It doesn't surprise me that a similar thing would happen with a trekking boot using the same technology.

Doug

 

[OZRussell]

Hi Janet and Doug.
The shoe issue is very significant. I was recommended Salomon XA Pros, which became my first failure. NIce shoe but killed my feet. I even ended up with severe inflammation across the front of the lower leg and foot after my first 20km walk, it took two weeks to recover with massage and compresses. I am now walking with Ecco's and on the whole they are pretty good, but I am sure there are even better ones out there. These are the Yak leather with the Goretek lining. Pretty good on wet days, that is until the socks get wet.
Actually I have been very disappointed with the poor quality of equipment I have been paying top dollar for. I wear merino wool boxer shorts which are terrific, but I began with Ice Breakers, they only lasted 3 weeks before the crotch wore through, I then went to Mountain Design and they only lasted four weeks and finally got onto Kathmandu and they have been going strong for months. Socks were a nightmare. I must have tried ten different technical sock before I settled with the Injinji socks.
Shirts have rubbed skin off under my arms, sandpapered of my nipples off (slight exag.) and the ice Breaker I wore under my pack last week helped to rub my back raw under the frame. By the way, has that happened to anyone else? I haven't heard anyone talk about that. It took my back a week to recover. I have to say, just the preperation is a steep learning curve.
BUT, I have had the best time , despite of all of that. I love the walking, and in all weathers,and I particularly love having the time to be with myself. I don't listen to music, I just take in where I am at any moment. How good does it get? Awesome! I am really enjoying the comments from everyone, thankyou, Russell

 

[jl]

Hi Russell, I must say that the socks that I wore last time (2 pairs - alternating each day) were Bridgedales - part wool and part some high tech wicking fabric. They say they never wear out, and I think they are pretty accurate - mine lasted for 3 months / 2,000kms and the wear patches were from a spot on the shoe, not from the wear of the foot. The cushioning stayed for that time too - mind you after 3 months continual wear they did start to LOOK pretty tacky!

My favourite shirts to wear are the hi-tech Ex-Officio brand. I always wear a long sleeved (slip, slop slap!) one during the day keeping a short sleeved one for "best"! They wash up well, dry quickly and look reasonable after 15 mins wear after having been scrunched up in the pack all day.

'fraid I can't comment on underwear for men - I'll leave that one to others.

I too never walk with music playing - the birds and the sounds around me are enough to listen too (plus the safety factor of cars coming up behind etc).

Keep enjoying your plans and preparations. Cheers, JAnet

 

[dougfitz]

Russell

Moisture in the boots - any cotten inside a Gore-tex layer is bad. Did this by mistake a couple of years ago when I mistook a pair of cotton socks for liner socks, and within an hour my feet were soaked. Stopped and removed the liners, dried off my feet and went on with only the outer sock. Problem went away completely. Similar with top layers - a cotton t-shirt inside a gore-tex or similar layer will just get very wet as it absorbs any moisture and keep it next to the skin, rather than wicking it away to the outer layers.

The other water issue is not wearing gaiters or rainpants, which lets water flow down one's trousers or legs straight into the boot. Gaiters should be a snug fit at the top so that there is less chance of water getting in there as one brushes past any low vegetation. They will cope with light rain, but only until the exposed trousers get wet. Rain pants really needed then if rain is to be kept out.

Like Janet, I am very impressed with the quick drying Ex-Officio brand clothing, both inner and middle top layer, and their briefs/underpants. That said, last year I chose to wear Snowgum bikini style briefs, which worked really well for me. I wore an Ex-Officio shirt as my Camino 'evening wear', and a Lowe Alpine trekking shirt during the day. Both long sleeved. In the day I either wore a Kathmandu polyprop v-neck t-shirt as an inner layer, or a Macpac long sleeved thermal. None of these gave me abrasion problems.

I have had abrasion soreness during long distance walking competitions. Many blokes will tape their nipples for long distance events. They will also individually tape each of their toes with strapping tape to stop blistering on the sides of the toe as well as on the contact patch. I wished I had done this early on my Camino, as the only place I had a problem was between my large and next toe where it rubbed.

On that issue, I also use a body glide product for my crotch, where I was still getting some skin contact at the top of my thighs. This decreased as I lost weight, but was necessary at the start.

I have worn a variety of socks over the years. I still have some Bridgedales from over a decade ago, but I have normally worn the heavier Kathmandu trekking socks, or more recently Horizon trekking socks and liner socks. The liner socks are coloured and don't get confused with other socks in the drawer!

DougF