LIVE from the Camino So happy to be back!

[NualaOC]

It feels very good to be back on the Camino!

We flew into Madrid on Monday evening and took the overnight trenhotel to Ponferrada. We joked that this train should be renamed the 'trenalbergue' as it was full of excited pilgrims and very noisy, even after lights-out! It was good fun and a very time-efficient way to reach our start point (where we finished last year) but perhaps not the best choice for a light sleeper.

We arrived in Ponferrada at around 5am and walked slowly to Villafranca del Bierzo. Such a beautiful walk. Powered by Camino euphoria (and home made energy bars!), we didn't feel any ill effects from the sleepless night on the train. However, we were so glad that we'd booked a hotel room as we really needed a shower and a bed when we arrived!

Today, we walked to Las Herrerias and we've just checked in at a pretty little pension. The easier road route out of Villafranca provided welcome shade and the sweet sounds of birdsong and the flowing river. The road crossings were a good reminder that the biggest danger to pilgrims isn't from bandits or villains - it's probably from road vehicles and our own inattention as pedestrians.

We've been blessed with good weather so far, but the forecast is pretty awful for the next few days. For now, I'm in my happy Camino bubble - hopefully it won't be burst by a wet climb to O'Cebreiro tomorrow. However, if I complain about the rain my sons will enjoy reminding me of what I used to say when they were kids: 'you're not made of sugar, you won't melt!'

Adios for now.

 

[wayfarer]

Great to hear you are back Nuala, I hope the weather holds up for you. I am just south of Porto now in the camper and hope to be in Santiago in about a week or so,maybe we will meet at the meeting place.
Buen Camino.

 

[NualaOC]

That sounds good Pat! All going well, we will be in Santiago on Wed 9 and Thurs 10 June. We'll definitely make our way to the meeting place.

 

[VNwalking]

Happy walking, happy meetings and a very buen camino, Nuala!

 

[Former member 42123]

That sounds good Pat! All going well, we will be in Santiago on Wed 9 and Thurs 10 June. We'll definitely make our way to the meeting place.

Nuala,Tuesday is the 9th not the Wed.Hope not a problem.

 

[NualaOC]

Nuala,Tuesday is the 9th not the Wed.Hope not a problem.

Thanks Philip, I'm clearly in Camino mode! I no longer know what day or time it is. I should have said Wed 10 & Thurs 11. At least I think that's what I meant

 

[NualaOC]

Happy walking, happy meetings and a very buen camino, Nuala!

Thank you Viranani.

 

[Cailin O Eire]

Have a great time, walking to Estella tomorrow, my last day. Must make my way back to Biarritz on Friday!
Thanks for all your advise. Hope you and Pat meet up.
Buen camino
Rita
P.S I have had a super time

 

[GreatDane]

It feels very good to be back on the Camino!

We flew into Madrid on Monday evening and took the overnight trenhotel to Ponferrada.

I have limited time this year but want to get back to another section of the Frances and was thinking Ponferrada to SdC. How many days are you planning? So I will be following your posts. DO you have a blog? Thanks!

 

[NualaOC]

I have limited time this year but want to get back to another section of the Frances and was thinking Ponferrada to SdC. How many days are you planning? So I will be following your posts. DO you have a blog? Thanks!

Hi GreatDane, we've provisionally estimated 9 days of walking from Ponferrada to Santiago. That may of course change! I won't be writing a blog, but I can let you know how it works out. I'll also do some forum posts when I can.
Buen Camino!

 

[GreatDane]

Sound good. I only have a little over 2 weeks this time. It takes until day 3 to be on the camino (coming from US to Madrid and then train to start point) and on the other end 2.5 very full days to get home from SdC. That gives me 9-10 days on the CF. I'll catch the Meseta through Cruz de Ferro some other year!! Buen Camino!

 

[NualaOC]

Day 3 - Herrerias to Fonfria

Today was a tough one, with a few ups and downs!

The walk to O'Cebreiro was absolutely beautiful and the fine weather brought spectacular views. This was a really nice experience and we loved O'Cebreiro. The rest of the day was quite hot, so that brought its challenges. However, we are managing fine - just a few aches and pains and no major foot problems.

A shout out to a few people who we met today:

• To the cyclists carrying a full load up those big hills, but who still managed to wave and shout 'Buen Camino'. You have my total respect - I could never manage that without falling off my bike!
• To another group of cyclists - the jolly Spanish guys who stood at the top of Alto do Poio and cheered us through those final torturous moments. Thank you so much for that - you really cheered us up when we needed it.

And, while on the subject of Alto do Peiro - we sat there for a while before the final 3.3kms to Fonfria. We then set off and were strolling along quite happily, until I realised that the little pouch, containing my phone and camera was no longer on my rucksack. I walked back a couple of kms to Alto do Peiro where the smiling barman handed me the little green pouch. So, to the honest pilgrims and staff at A do P - thank you so much for keeping it safe! And humble apologies to Damian, my long suffering husband who warned me many times that I would lose 'that bloody pouch'. You were right. Again.

Needless to say, I was glad to finally arrive at Fonfria. Looking forward to the pilgrim meal - hopefully I can stay awake for it.

 

[cherrys]

Hope you enjoyed the meal at Fonfria in that delightful round building, and the wine with their own label. I know I did. Glad to hear all you Irish are doing well on the camino, and hope you continue to do so, and that you all make it to Santiago in good health. I'm back to Schull 30/6 for six weeks, still hoping to get some hiking done there. I did NOT back in April and May. Too much house cleaning and painting!

 

[Cailin O Eire]

Great to hear you are back Nuala, I hope the weather holds up for you. I am just south of Porto now in the camper and hope to be in Santiago in about a week or so,maybe we will meet at the meeting place.
Buen Camino.

I seen this sign post and thought of my camino forum friend with it as his profile picture.
Buen Camino

 

[katief]

Have a great time, walking to Estella tomorrow, my last day. Must make my way back to Biarritz on Friday!
Thanks for all your advise. Hope you and Pat meet up.
Buen camino
Rita
P.S I have had a super time

Maith a caílín.........so glad you enjoyed.......You will be back!!!

 

[katief]

I seen this sign post and thought of my camino forum friend with it as his profile picture.
Buen Camino

And so did I......thanks Wayfarer.......

 

[NualaOC]

Day 5 and we're now in Villacha. The past few days have been a joy, with fantastic company and some very special Camino moments.

As expected, things felt a lot busier when we reached Sarria. This was a bit of a shock to the system, but it hasn't really bothered us too much. Last night, we stayed in the wonderful Albergue Paloma y Lena in San Mahmed. Tonight we're in Casa Banderas and we've just had one of our most memorable pilgrim meals. Such warm and generous hospitality in both places - I can't say enough good things about them.

We also had a great evening in Albergue la Reboleira in Fonfria. Nice meal around a big communal table and such pleasant and welcoming hosts.

Galicia is incredibly beautiful and we've been blessed with good walking weather. Life is good

 

[NualaOC]

Hope you enjoyed the meal at Fonfria in that delightful round building, and the wine with their own label. I know I did. Glad to hear all you Irish are doing well on the camino, and hope you continue to do so, and that you all make it to Santiago in good health. I'm back to Schull 30/6 for six weeks, still hoping to get some hiking done there. I did NOT back in April and May. Too much house cleaning and painting!

Thanks @cherrys, yes we're doing very well and we enjoyed the food and wine at Fonfria. I hope all goes well with your trip to Schull. The village will no doubt be busy in July and August.

 

[NualaOC]

We met this lovely family yesterday. They are walking 100 miles from O'Cebreiro to Santiago. Some years ago, the man holding the little boy's hand walked that same 100 miles and prayed for another child.

This year, the family walk with and in gratitude for that child. And the boy's name? Santiago, of course!

One of many wonderful moments in the past few days.

 

[NualaOC]

Day 7, Castaneda. Life in the slow lane.

A week ago, we left home feeling like two stressed-out workaholics. We hadn't trained enough and we weren't as fit as last time, but we knew all would be well. And it is.

We're enjoying life in the slow lane, literally and metaphorically. Each morning we join the slow line of tortoise-like peregrinos, trudging up and down hills with our backpacks. We're soon overtaken by the cyclists and the fast walkers, many of whom carry small day packs and sometimes forget to wish others a Buen Camino. But there's still a good camaraderie and we've had some very memorable moments along the way. There's more than enough room for all the pilgrims, power walkers, tourists and cyclists.

Occasionally, people get caught up in the 'hierarchy of pilgrims' nonsense. Among today's fast walkers were two sisters. They are young and super-fit, but after a sleepless night in our albergue, one of the sisters sent her bag ahead. As she walked past the slow lane, a 'true pilgrim' waved his finger and reprimanded her for walking without a pack. What he couldn't see is that she is three months pregnant and battling fatigue without a word of complaint. A trooper and a pilgrim.

One final comment...and sorry, it's more unsolicited advice for us 'women walking the Camino'. If you're walking with a partner or friends, I recommend making some time each day for quiet solo walking. I find it to be very good for the mind and the soul. And, if you need to answer the call of nature while you do so, PLEASE pick up your toilet paper!! There's no excuse for all those white tissues along the way.

Tonight I'll raise a glass of vino tinto to all the strong women, young and old, who I've met on the Camino. Slainte, peregrinas!

 

[NualaOC]

Day 9 & 10. Santiago!

I commented a couple of days ago that there's room on the Camino for everyone and that there's no hierarchy of pilgrims. I've found it hard at times to hold on to that belief on the last 100km. We've seen a lot of rude and demanding behaviour in the past few days. We've also come across people who have absolutely no respect for the Camino. It's difficult to be tolerant and respectful of those people. I don't know how the hospitaleros manage it.

Anyway, we woke very early yesterday morning and left O Pedrouzo at 4.50am. I'm so glad that we did! We walked the first couple of hours in complete darkness and without meeting any other pilgrims. We then met two very sweet young American girls who we seem to meet quite a lot. We had a brief chat and we continued on our way.

Needless to say, there were no cafe con leche stops at that time of the morning. We kept walking until the little kiosk at Monte del Gozo. As if by magic, our two South African friends were there and we shared a final cafe con leche together. They walked ahead and we then began a slow walk to Santiago. There were still only a few pilgrims on the path.

We walked the final few kms with our German friends and we joined the line at the pilgrim office. Although we started this year with no plan to form or join a Camino family, the night at Casa Banderas created a very special little Camino group. Six of us were together to receive our compostelas and a seventh joined us for celebrations later on.

We went to the 12 noon mass - it seemed appropriate to enter the cathedral as weary and sweaty pilgrims. Thank you to the English bishop who ensured the swinging of the botafumeiro! The service was a very fitting end to our three year Camino. As I expected, I cried a few tears but it wasn't an overwhelmingly emotional or religious experience. It just felt right to be there and I know that I'll be back again.

Somewhere on the walk to Santiago I lost my glasses. Not the cheap sunglasses, but my expensive varifocals which I absolutely needed to fill in the form at the pilgrim office. I realised at Monte del Gozo that they were lost and I figured that they fell out of my pocket somewhere in the forest. I decided not to get cross about it and I certainly wasn't going back to look for them. As we were in the queue at the pilgrim office, one of those amazing little Camino moments happened. A German couple had found my glasses in the forest and on arrival in Santiago, asked a few pilgrims if they knew who owned them. One of the people they asked was my South African friend who had been with me when I discovered they were missing. She reunited me with the glasses when I arrived at the pilgrim office! The German couple who found them were also in the queue so it was great to be able to thank them for their kindness. I am so grateful for that Camino moment!

We're in a quiet apartment on Rue Clemente. It's 8.20am and it feels strange to be still in bed! We're looking forward to exploring Santiago today. Tomorrow, we'll take a bus some or all of the way to Cee. On Saturday, we'll walk from Cee to Finisterre and we'll then do a very leisurely 2-day walk to Muxia, where we'll spend our final night.

I'll hopefully drop in to Cafe Tertulia again tonight. It's a really nice cafe - a great choice for the pilgrim meet-up.

Thank you forum buddies for the invaluable information and support that you so generously share in this forum. It has been really really helpful.