Vacajoe
Traded in my work boots for hiking ones
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances, Portuguese, Aragon, Norte, SJWayUK, Nive
Walked the first stage of this route from the Somport Pass to Canfranc Pueblo which is only 12kms but was more tiring than similar stage distances due to the altitude, weather, and trail conditions. A recent snowstorm dumped over a foot of snow at the pass and even though it is quickly melting, it made for difficult way-finding and footing.
Usually the route from the pass into the Aragon Valley is easy to follow, but snow has covered a number of arrows and signposts. Apparently I was the first to walk the route post-storm so anyone walking this route in the next few days can simply follow the size 14 US footprints!
You’ll drop below the snow line after about 90 minutes of walking, but you can divert to the highway shoulder to avoid most of it. My Altra Timps and Darn Tough wool socks didn’t keep my feet dry, but they did keep them warm and they eventually dried out almost completely while walking finishing the stage. Last year a heavier snowstorm hit this same weekend and all of it had melted off the trail with two weeks. If you don’t mind the challenge, it’s a safe path to walk right now.
The route was changed about two years ago, but the old route is still accessible and signposted as the GR-11. Both trails join together about 1km before Canfranc Estacion. Both are lovely and sign-posted with the main difference being how close to the highway you will walk.
The old route (GR-11) stays on the left side of the highway and follows the Valley down higher up on the hillside away from the traffic noise. It goes closer to various military bunkers and ruins, but can get a bit muddier. If the weather is nice, I highly recommend it. To reach it, follow the signs for GR-11 when you reach the bottom of the hill featuring the ruins of the 12th century Santa Cristina Hospital. As you face the highway, the Camino signs point right across the roadway towards the buildings of Candanchu, but you’ll head left and cross a small roadway bridge (stay on the left side of the highway.) after about 100 meters, you’ll see a sign for the trail pointing UP the hill.
The new route is better during storms and a bit shorter for those walking all the way to Jaca. It’s easy to follow as they have erected large “Camino de Santiago” signs at key points. You will walk near the highway at times on the right side of the Valley and it requires several crossings of that roadway, but none which are dangerous. It also passes by the Santa Cristina Hotel if you are looking for a stop prior to Canfranc Estacion. The path is often gravel or paved road, but it’s an abandoned roadway so no cars will be traveling on it. This path allows you to move to the highway shoulder if a storm hits, especially during sudden whiteout conditions that some experienced this past week.
Canfranc Estacion has multiple accommodations, grocery stores, and bar/cafes including the newly renovated train station. Less than an hour further down the trail, you’ll reach Canfranc Pueblo, a very small community with one of the nicest albergues you’ll ever visit. The Elías Valiña municipal donativo is managed by FICS and opened less than two years ago. 16 pilgrim beds, a large lounge space and kitchen, sundeck, and simple breakfast. Stay and give generously! Pueblo also has a small bar with food and some groceries.
Usually the route from the pass into the Aragon Valley is easy to follow, but snow has covered a number of arrows and signposts. Apparently I was the first to walk the route post-storm so anyone walking this route in the next few days can simply follow the size 14 US footprints!
You’ll drop below the snow line after about 90 minutes of walking, but you can divert to the highway shoulder to avoid most of it. My Altra Timps and Darn Tough wool socks didn’t keep my feet dry, but they did keep them warm and they eventually dried out almost completely while walking finishing the stage. Last year a heavier snowstorm hit this same weekend and all of it had melted off the trail with two weeks. If you don’t mind the challenge, it’s a safe path to walk right now.
The route was changed about two years ago, but the old route is still accessible and signposted as the GR-11. Both trails join together about 1km before Canfranc Estacion. Both are lovely and sign-posted with the main difference being how close to the highway you will walk.
The old route (GR-11) stays on the left side of the highway and follows the Valley down higher up on the hillside away from the traffic noise. It goes closer to various military bunkers and ruins, but can get a bit muddier. If the weather is nice, I highly recommend it. To reach it, follow the signs for GR-11 when you reach the bottom of the hill featuring the ruins of the 12th century Santa Cristina Hospital. As you face the highway, the Camino signs point right across the roadway towards the buildings of Candanchu, but you’ll head left and cross a small roadway bridge (stay on the left side of the highway.) after about 100 meters, you’ll see a sign for the trail pointing UP the hill.
The new route is better during storms and a bit shorter for those walking all the way to Jaca. It’s easy to follow as they have erected large “Camino de Santiago” signs at key points. You will walk near the highway at times on the right side of the Valley and it requires several crossings of that roadway, but none which are dangerous. It also passes by the Santa Cristina Hotel if you are looking for a stop prior to Canfranc Estacion. The path is often gravel or paved road, but it’s an abandoned roadway so no cars will be traveling on it. This path allows you to move to the highway shoulder if a storm hits, especially during sudden whiteout conditions that some experienced this past week.
Canfranc Estacion has multiple accommodations, grocery stores, and bar/cafes including the newly renovated train station. Less than an hour further down the trail, you’ll reach Canfranc Pueblo, a very small community with one of the nicest albergues you’ll ever visit. The Elías Valiña municipal donativo is managed by FICS and opened less than two years ago. 16 pilgrim beds, a large lounge space and kitchen, sundeck, and simple breakfast. Stay and give generously! Pueblo also has a small bar with food and some groceries.
. How did you get to the starting point? I’m considering detouring up when I walk the Catalan and sort of doing two-birds-one-walk.
so eager to read your story and the pics are great!
