Start in Burgos or Castrojeriz

[tpmchugh]

I will be starting the second stage of my Camino on the 7th September having finished at Castrojeriz on Good Friday past. I have booked a bus ticket from Bilbao to Burgos on the 6th which will get me in at 13:30 in time to catch the 14:00 bus to Castrojeriz. I have no idea how long that journey from Burgos takes but I will not be there before 15:00. The question is, what chance is there that the albergues in Castrojeriz will be filled by then. Would I be better going straight to the municipal behind the cathedral in Burgos and repeating that section again as there are no buses on Saturday or Sunday

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, tpmchugh!

You're right about arrival time to Castrojeriz, bus ride from Burgos does take app.1 hour. But I don't think you'll have problem finding a bed with at least 4 albergues in the village according to Eroski and Gronze (http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/etapa-de-hontanas-a-boadilla-del-camino and http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/camino-frances/todos-los-albergues.htm) with another one in San Anton. Also I remember a post not long ago mentioning even 7 albergues in Castrojeriz. Still you can make reservation in Albergue del camping.

Ultreia!

 

[scruffy1]

In Castrojeriz there is also the Tavern mentioned by Hape Kerkeling - right on the Camino not your usual Camino experience for sure but do search it out - quite a nice place actually, good food funny stories and run by a real "character".

 

[scruffy1]

PS yes he does also have rooms

 

[mspath]

Scruffy,

Is this the place you mean ? At 43 Real de Oriente is a nice cafe, La Taberna, with rooms and a Brazilian connection. A big photo of the author Paulo Coelo standing with the owner is next to the door. When staying at the nearby municipal albergue I have often eaten here over the years since their Taberna pilgrim dinner is varied, excellent and cheap. The owner-barman, a true diplomat, always remembers me; his wife does the delicious cooking.

Margaret Meredith

 

[scruffy1]

It sure is!!! I also met there at the bar one who was publicly acknowledged to be one of the "heroes" no that's not right, a participant appearing in no, one of "those" mentioned in book written by Shirley MacLaine – less said the better!

 

[tpmchugh]

Thanks folks. Good photo Margaret. Ate in that bar at Easter. It was Good Friday and I had arrived when the kitchen was closed. The barman rustled me up some bar grub. Fish soup, lots of bread and some ham, a nice beer followed by café con leche. Only when I finished the meal did I remember it was Good Friday and had eaten meat. Filled a hungry stomach though. Kinkyone, if Albergue del Camping is the caravan and camping site, when I approached the door at Easter a man came out to meet me and told me they were not an albergue and pointed me up the road. I had already tried the hostel at the start of town and they were full up with cyclists. The next building that looked like it may be an albergue was closed but the next one had some beds left so I stayed there. Think it was Casa NostraIt was a bit scruffy but it was lashing down and I just wanted to get in out of the rain. My jacket was not as waterproof as I had thought so I was soaked through. Did not venture further into town that night so had no idea how many albergues there were further in. Next morning, along with some Spanish, we got a taxi back to Burgos. They got a train to go home to Malaga and I got a bus for Madrid on Easter Sunday and that was the end of that stage. Think I will start from Castrojeriz provided I get into Burgos in time to catch the local bus. One thing I wont be doing is walking back to San Anton. I turned back once at this town, I wont be doing it again.

 

[KinkyOne]

Kinkyone, if Albergue del Camping is the caravan and camping site, when I approached the door at Easter a man came out to meet me and told me they were not an albergue and pointed me up the road. [...]One thing I wont be doing is walking back to San Anton. I turned back once at this town, I wont be doing it again.

Is this the albergue you're referring to, on the left when entering the village? http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-de-castrojeriz Wasn't there myself, but I've heard nothing but the best of it. Also that the food there is awsome!!!

Understand you all the way about (not)turning back (to San Anton). Just tried to help

Ultreia!

 

[tpmchugh]

That's the very place Kinkyone. I had reached Castrojeriz totally fed up after trudging across the Meseta in thick clinging mud to be then soaked to the skin while walking along an endless boring road from Hontanos. I spotted a family in a people carrier and asked them where the albergue was. The mother actually came after me when she realised I had not understood her directions and sent me down through the caravan site. As I approached that building a man came out and said that this was a camp site not an albergue and sent me on up the hill where I found the Casa Nostra. That's why I was somewhat confused as all the guide books say it is an albergue. Maybe its only a camp site in March and does not open as an albergue until later in the year.

Understand that you were being very helpful suggesting San Anton. To walk back along the Camino was something my son and I said we would not do. I know its going back to find a bed if the worst comes to the worst but the very thought of walking that road again is not something I would relish, even if its not raining again. Its the road that destroyed my will to go on and sent me home. My son had gone home at Burgos as his time was up but I had all the time in the world. Had the weather not turned so foul after he had gone, I believe I would have had the strength of mind to carry on but it just hit me at my weakest moment and I gave up.

So thankyou, the help you and others have provided has helped me make my decision. I will start from Castrojeriz and God willing I will finish it this time

Buen Camino

 

[tyrrek]

I'd happily walk that stage after Burgos again, especially the bit between Hornillos and Hontanas which is one of my favourite sections of the whole Camino. It's the Meseta at it's beautiful, soulful best. Buen Camino!

 

[Lydia Gillen]

Hi T.

Great to see that you are off again.

Just two points. Firstly, your turn around time in Burgos is quite tight if you have to purchase a ticket there. It is amazing how slow bus queues can be at times. If you can purchase on line it might be a good idea to do so.

Secondly there are several places listed in 'Brierley' with phone numbers so you could book your place in Castrojeriz in advance.

I am starting a "Camino" with a difference in Sept. I start a four year course in Theology in Trinity College Dublin. For me it is more scary than starting the Camino and I imagine may well be more difficult!!!

Buen Camino to you this time and may you be blessed with pleasant weather.

 

[nellpilgrim]

Hi T.
I am starting a "Camino" with a difference in Sept. I start a four year course in Theology in Trinity College Dublin. For me it is more scary than starting the Camino and I imagine may well be more difficult!!!

Hello Lydia,
Congratulations that is fantastic news. How lucky your classmates will be you'll be an inspiration.
Good luck for the start of your Junior Freshman year and can we look forward to you taking part in any of the 'high jinks' of 'Freshers week'? (if offered Rice wine manufactured somewhere in the recesses of the School of Engineering please avoid it can make you blind for a few hours-well it did in the late 70's..... )

 

[mspath]

Tom,

This is a word of caution for your first day walking on your return camino. West from Castrojeriz. after a medieval bridge the trail suddenly ascends STEEPLY for roughly 100 meters to the top of the Mostelares plateau, height 980 meters; be prepared. Walk slowly, pause for deep breaths and carry enough water. The first water source is the Fuente del Piojo some 7 km away. However, the gravel camino path is broad and the view from 'the top of the world' well worth the effort. One can see widely for many kilometers; to the east the path taken and to the west the path to take!

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[KinkyOne]

I had reached Castrojeriz totally fed up after trudging across the Meseta in thick clinging mud to be then soaked to the skin while walking along an endless boring road from Hontanos.

Sorry to hear that you gave up, but somehow I understand. Walking with clogs of mud, in the rain etc. I've had wonderful walk across the Meseta (apart from freezing wind), lots of sun in June. It's very inspiring to hear that you've decided to push forward this time. But warm up your muscles and joints in the morning because you'll face the ascent to Alto Mostelares first thing and that's..., well , you'll see

Ultreia!

edited:
PS (Hahaha, obviously mspath and myself were writing almost the same thing at the same time...)

 

[tpmchugh]

Hi Lydia, really great to hear you got on that course. Best of luck with it though I suppose for someone like you who has been on the Camino a few times, you wont need luck. It was your determination that inspired me to go in the first place and once started I was determined to finish even if it took two trips.

Thanks Mspath and Kinkyone. I have looked at pictures of that ascent many times. I have been training on fairly steep slopes at home but without the rucksack. Will get a few more hikes in before I leave but training or not, I just don't do inclines very well. I do stop a lot, look for some little rock or patch of grass and make that my goal. When I get there rest again and look for another goal. I have even looked to see if there was a way to by pass it. There is but its up and over for me. If I survived mudslide mountain as we came to call Perdon outside Pamplona, which was my first day on the Camino, I will survive anything. It may not have been as steep but when you stand looking at three choices, walk through approx. 30cm of snow to the left, really deep mud straight ahead or force your way through a thorn patch to the right, anything else seems ok. By the way, we opted for the thorn patch lol but it was physically the toughest day of my life. My avatar picture was taken just before we came to that impasse. One good thing about the incline on first day is that on second day its behind me and fairly level walking for five days or so afterwards. A few inclines but nothing very steep

Just looked up the word you finish with Kinkyone. Ultreia....onward, I like it, think I will use that myself in future

Ultreia

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Ultreïa (French)
Tous les matins nous prenons le Chemin,
tous les matins nous allons plus loin,
jour après jour la route nous appelle,
c’est la voix de Compostelle!

Chorus:
Ultreïa! Ultreïa! Et sus eia!
Deus adjuva nos!

Chemin de terre et Chemin de foi,
voie millénaire de l’Europe,
la voie lactée de Charlemagne,
c’est le Chemin de tous les jacquets!

Et tout là-bas au bout du continent,
Messire Jacques nous attend,
Depuis toujours son sourire fixe
Le soleil qui meurt au Finisterre.

As sung by the Basque host just after Ostabat:

 

[tpmchugh]

Hi T.

Great to see that you are off again.

Just two points. Firstly, your turn around time in Burgos is quite tight if you have to purchase a ticket there. It is amazing how slow bus queues can be at times. If you can purchase on line it might be a good idea to do so.

Secondly there are several places listed in 'Brierley' with phone numbers so you could book your place in Castrojeriz in advance.

I am starting a "Camino" with a difference in Sept. I start a four year course in Theology in Trinity College Dublin. For me it is more scary than starting the Camino and I imagine may well be more difficult!!!

Buen Camino to you this time and may you be blessed with pleasant weather.

Thanks Lydia, I know its tight but if I don't make it I just start from Burgos again. Unfortunately, it appears to be the only thing I can't book on line. Bus to Dublin, flight, hostal in Bilbao and bus to Burgos all done on line but cant do Burgos to Castrojeriz. But then, if everything was that easy there would be no point in doing it, it would just become another package holiday. Will light a candle for you in Santiago

Buen Camino

 

[tpmchugh]

Very good Falcon, enjoyed that. Might stick that on my ipod

Buen Camino

 

[Deleted member 3000]

He leads a group sing in Basque at the end of every meal. Even the French did not know what they were singing! One tune was "She'll Be Coming 'Round the Mountain." He includes an aperitif, wine, and digestif for the meal price. Everyone starting in SJPdP misses him by one day of walking...

 

[peregrina2000]

Scruffy,

Is this the place you mean ? At 43 Real de Oriente is a nice cafe, La Taberna, with rooms and a Brazilian connection. A big photo of the author Paulo Coelo standing with the owner is next to the door. When staying at the nearby municipal albergue I have often eaten here over the years since their Taberna pilgrim dinner is varied, excellent and cheap. The owner-barman, a true diplomat, always remembers me; his wife does the delicious cooking.

Margaret Meredith

Am I remembering correctly to think that this is the place where the lovely old dog used to follow pilgrims every day, sometimes getting as far as Fromista, until someone poisoned the poor thing? This was years and years ago, so my memory is very fuzzy, but the picture looks like the place I remember.

 

[peregrina2000]

Ultreïa (French)
Tous les matins nous prenons le Chemin,
tous les matins nous allons plus loin,
jour après jour la route nous appelle,
c’est la voix de Compostelle!

Chorus:
Ultreïa! Ultreïa! Et sus eia!
Deus adjuva nos!

Chemin de terre et Chemin de foi,
voie millénaire de l’Europe,
la voie lactée de Charlemagne,
c’est le Chemin de tous les jacquets!

Et tout là-bas au bout du continent,
Messire Jacques nous attend,
Depuis toujours son sourire fixe
Le soleil qui meurt au Finisterre.

As sung by the Basque host just after Ostabat:

Ah, yes, remember this guy and his amazing gite quite well. Up on a hill, double rooms with patios, is that the place? I will say that if it's the same place, what I remember most was that his daughter did all the work and he sat around entertaining everyone.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

It is fairly new, about a kilometer past Ostabat, and the driveway up is a bit of a climb. The whole family works, but he does the entertaining while others run the kitchen and reception. The rooms were excellent.

 

[tpmchugh]

One more question. Does anyone know if its possible to pay the driver for the bus from Burgos to Castrojeriz or must I queue up and buy a ticket. Friends' took the bus from Najera to Burgos and paid the driver

 

[tpmchugh]

Not sure now if there is a bus to Castrojeriz. Burgos bus station web site not returning any results for a bus at 1400 but Castrojeriz web site says there is one. Might be walking from Burgos after all

Ultreia

 

[Deleted member 3000]

To get there:

EN AUTOBÚS - Autobús de Arenillas
Burgos - Castrojeriz: lunes y viernes a las 14:00 h

Información de autobuses y horarios: Burgos 947 26 20 17

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Conflicting information:

BURGOS - ARENILLAS de RÍO PISUERGA
VIERNES: 18:30
SÁBADO: no hay servicio
DOMINGOS: no hay servicio

Días festivos consultar horarios
EMPRESA: SOTO Y ALONSO
INFORMACIÓN:
Tlfno: 947 47 28 30
Taquillas: 6-7
www.autosotoyalonso.es

Itinerario:
Burgos
San Mamés de Burgos
Quintanilla de las Carretas
Frandovínez
Estépar
Celada del Camino
Villaldemiro
Tamarón
Iglesias
Castellanos de Castro
Hontanas
Villaquirán de la Puebla
Castrojeriz
Castrillo Matajudíos
Itero del Castillo
Itero de la Vega
Lantadilla
Palacios de Riopisuerga
Arenillas de Riopisuerga

BURGOS - FRÓMISTA
LUNES A VIERNES: 17:30
SÁBADO: 13,30 (hasta 30 - 9 - 2013)
DOMINGO: no hay servicio

Días festivos consultar horarios

EMPRESA: AMAYA
INFORMACIÓN:
Tlfno: 947 26 90 32 947 48 62 70
Taquilla: 10

Itinerario:
Burgos
Villacienzo (empalme)
Polígono los Brezos
Villalbilla de Burgos
Tardajos
Villarmentero (empalme)
Las Quintanillas
Palacios de Benaver (empalme)
Villanueva de Argaño
Citores del Páramo (empalme)
Yudego
Villandiego
Castrillo de Murcia
Villasandino
Villasilos
Castrojeriz
Hinestrosa
Pedrosa del Príncipe
San Cebrián de Buena Madre (empalme)
Astudillo
Santoyo
Boadilla del Camino (empalme)
Frómista

 

[KinkyOne]

Will light a candle for you in Santiago

I'm afraid that you can't do that in SdC cathedral, since there aren't any candles to buy or allowed either. You can only put some € coins in those soulless machines to "light" electric candles. I was sooo disappointed I can't describe and I'm not a religious person! I did it anyway because I promised several persons at home that I'd do that...

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Save the walk to Santiago to light a bulb:

http://www.mivela.com/

 

[KinkyOne]

Save the walk to Santiago to light a bulb:

http://www.mivela.com/

falcon269, you've missed my point completely. Anyway, my goal was the Camino itself if not Cabo de Finisterre, certainly not SdC!

B.

PS (Sorry for off-topic spam folks!!!)

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I'm afraid that you can't do that in SdC cathedral, since there aren't any candles to buy or allowed either. You can only put some € coins in those soulless machines to "light" electric candles.

Save the walk to Santiago to light a bulb:

You can light a soulless machine over the internet, and save the walk!!

 

[KinkyOne]

falcon269, I understand now. Sorry for the jumpy response

 

[tpmchugh]

Thanks for the reply about the buses Falcon. Have been away for just over a week so just got the info tonight. Was hiking up a mountain in Flam a village in the Sognefjord, Norway and nearly ended my Camino before it started. Unfortunately took the quick way down and landed on my backside. Badly bruised but nothing broken lol. Hope there is nothing that steep ahead of me . Will find out about the buses on Friday. Hope there is one as starting at Burgos will put me a couple of days behind schedule and will mean I wont be going to Finisterre. Oh well, lets see what the Camino provides. Flying out in the morning from Dublin.
Buen Camino