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Suggestions for a week long stay on the CF Route

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
I am booked to arrive in Pamplona on Sept 4th and had planned to walk from SJPDP. I fractured my tibia skiing last week and now have 6+ months of recovery. I am still planning to come and will walk the last 100K from Sarria giving myself twice the time. I now have time on my hands and was looking for a lovely place to park for a week on the CF and looking for suggestions. I would like to enjoy the CF community in town, church services, and a river that would be swimmable. I will use this week to walk as well in smaller lengths to keep building up my leg.
Thanks so much for any thoughts,
Mary
 
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Year of past OR future Camino
2022
Ugh! So sorry to hear about your leg! Keep up with your physical therapy.

Over several Caminos, I spent extra time in Estrella (mainly because of blister recovery) Burgos, and Leon. Both Burgos and Leon offer wonderful enticements for the exhausted pilgrim, and the enthusiastic tourista!

I am glad I don't have to choose between the two - perhaps Burgos by a nose? Nice park, great museums, amazing Cathedral, and you can travel to other places from there for day trips. See if there is a festival happening in either city during the time you will be there and add that to your decision-making process.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (2015, 2017, 2019) and plans for 2021 (Sept, Oct)
Mary, so sorry to hear about your accident. Good for you to persevere and continue with a trip to Spain. If you will arrive in Pamplona, that is certainly a nice city to spend a few days in. Lots of shops, bars and restaurants and you can strengthen your leg by walking down and around the ancient city walls. The cathedral is also quite inspiring. The Arga river flows nearby, but am not sure if it is swimming worthy.

Another town my wife and I have fallen in love with during our three caminos is Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The old town is very historic with the famous Cathedral and legend of chickens. Also a nice town with many shops and plazas. A real treat is staying in the Parador right by the church. You can pamper yourself in a nice room and enjoy the incredible breakfast buffet there.

If you are not able to walk, then take a bus to Puente la Reina. Such a nice town with the wonderful arching bridge. My wife and I always buy a bottle of wine and sit there watching the river and people enjoying the site. Another town with nice shops, bar restaurants and interesting cathedral.

Good luck on the mend !

Bob
 

Walkerooni

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
C. Frances SJPdP to Santiago (June-ish 2018)
Sorry an injury has changed your plans, but bravo for the rehab which will get you out there, even just for part of it. If you had planned to walk from SJPdP, at 25k/day it would have taken you over 30 days. Not sure how long you are allotting for the last 100k, but even slowly, I think you will have a lot more time on your hands than a week (unless you’ve changed your return date). If so, no need to limit it to one place! Maybe 2 or 3 days in each of several places along the route might give you a better feel for the “CF community” and allow you to see more. You will get lots of walking in just exploring places like Burgos (check out the Museum of Human Evolution, cathedral), Leon, Astorga. Maybe even throw in a tiny little almost deserted tiny village in the middle of the Mesata for good measure. I have never used it, but bus service seems to be available all along the CF to get you from place to place. Whatever you decide, happy training, happy trails, and Buen Camino!
 

Albertagirl

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances (2015); Aragones-Frances (2016); VdlP-Sanabres (2017); Madrid-Frances-Invierno (2019)Levante
If I had a week to spend in one city on the Frances, it would be in Leon, where I have stayed over two nights on the three occasions when I was passing through on camino. For a church to spend time in and attend worship services, I would choose the 12th century Basilica of San Isidoro, open for worship and to receive a pilgrim blessing. The Cathedral in Leon has the most amazing stained glass that I have ever seen. But in my experience it is busy with tourists listening to audio recordings as they wander there. Worth spending time in, but not likely to become your local church to worship in, as San Isidoro is for me. The tombs of the kings are in the basement there, and the church above, for prayer. I cannot tell you where to swim in the river, but no doubt the tourist office, on the plaza across from the Cathedral, can give you any desired information.
 
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urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Ugh! So sorry to hear about your leg! Keep up with your physical therapy.

Over several Caminos, I spent extra time in Estrella (mainly because of blister recovery) Burgos, and Leon. Both Burgos and Leon offer wonderful enticements for the exhausted pilgrim, and the enthusiastic tourista!

I am glad I don't have to choose between the two - perhaps Burgos by a nose? Nice park, great museums, amazing Cathedral, and you can travel to other places from there for day trips. See if there is a festival happening in either city during the time you will be there and add that to your decision-making process.
Thank you so much. I will do some looking into both of these lovely cities.
 

Anamya

Keeping it simple
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances (2015)
Portugues (2017)
Lebaniego (2019)
I am a big fan of Burgos. Beautiful cathedral, lovely Plaza Mayor, great food. And from there you can hire a cab to visit some other surrounding places, to get more of the "camino feel" without forcing your leg.

And really, if you feel like after a few days you have explored everything you wanted, you can always go somewhere else. The important thing is that you are happy and recovering :)
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Mary, so sorry to hear about your accident. Good for you to persevere and continue with a trip to Spain. If you will arrive in Pamplona, that is certainly a nice city to spend a few days in. Lots of shops, bars and restaurants and you can strengthen your leg by walking down and around the ancient city walls. The cathedral is also quite inspiring. The Arga river flows nearby, but am not sure if it is swimming worthy.

Another town my wife and I have fallen in love with during our three caminos is Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The old town is very historic with the famous Cathedral and legend of chickens. Also a nice town with many shops and plazas. A real treat is staying in the Parador right by the church. You can pamper yourself in a nice room and enjoy the incredible breakfast buffet there.

If you are not able to walk, then take a bus to Puente la Reina. Such a nice town with the wonderful arching bridge. My wife and I always buy a bottle of wine and sit there watching the river and people enjoying the site. Another town with nice shops, bar restaurants and interesting cathedral.

Good luck on the mend !

Bob
Thank you so much, this all sounds lovely.
 

Anamiri

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2016, 2017, 2019 Camino Frances
The only river that I know is swimmable is Molinaseca, which is a lovely town, but maybe too small for a week stay. They have dammed the river and made a large swimming area.
I did see people enjoying cooling off in the river in Zubiri, maybe others know of other spots. The river in Burgos winds through the city and is pretty, but I dont know about swimming in it. Likewise Leon.,
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Mary, so sorry to hear about your accident. Good for you to persevere and continue with a trip to Spain. If you will arrive in Pamplona, that is certainly a nice city to spend a few days in. Lots of shops, bars and restaurants and you can strengthen your leg by walking down and around the ancient city walls. The cathedral is also quite inspiring. The Arga river flows nearby, but am not sure if it is swimming worthy.

Another town my wife and I have fallen in love with during our three caminos is Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The old town is very historic with the famous Cathedral and legend of chickens. Also a nice town with many shops and plazas. A real treat is staying in the Parador right by the church. You can pamper yourself in a nice room and enjoy the incredible breakfast buffet there.

If you are not able to walk, then take a bus to Puente la Reina. Such a nice town with the wonderful arching bridge. My wife and I always buy a bottle of wine and sit there watching the river and people enjoying the site. Another town with nice shops, bar restaurants and interesting cathedral.

Good luck on the mend !

Bob
Thanks so much, Santo Domingo de la Calzeda does look charming. I am sure I will add this as a place to visit.
 
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urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
The only river that I know is swimmable is Molinaseca, which is a lovely town, but maybe too small for a week stay. They have dammed the river and made a large swimming area.
I did see people enjoying cooling off in the river in Zubiri, maybe others know of other spots. The river in Burgos winds through the city and is pretty, but I dont know about swimming in it. Likewise Leon.,
Thanks so much!
 

Roland49

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2019
Sad to hear about your accident. Hope your rehab will be successful.

There is the possibility to swim in the river Burbia in Villafranca del Bierzo. Very nice spot.

But Villafranca is too small for aweek long stay, but you could stay in Ponferrada with it's medieval fortification and take trips to Villafranca and the Bierzo.
The Bierzo is a less known small wine-region and you will find several videos on YT about the region, just search for Bierzo / El Bierzo.

After my CF I order wine from the bodegas there on a regular basis, very good wines for the budget.
 

Raggy

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Left field ideas:

- Convalesce on the coast. Connect with pilgrims on the Camino del Norte and swim in the sea

- Don't convalesce. Buy a cheap bicycle and ride the same stages as walkers each day

- Spend the week in A Coruña and register as a resident. Walk the 70 odd km to Santiago, and use the A Coruña resident's loophole to qualify for a compostela. Bwahaha.
 
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Anamiri

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2016, 2017, 2019 Camino Frances
Sad to hear about your accident. Hope your rehab will be successful.

There is the possibility to swim in the river Burbia in Villafranca del Bierzo. Very nice spot.

But Villafranca is too small for aweek long stay, but you could stay in Ponferrada with it's medieval fortification and take trips to Villafranca and the Bierzo.
The Bierzo is a less known small wine-region and you will find several videos on YT about the region, just search for Bierzo / El Bierzo.

After my CF I order wine from the bodegas there on a regular basis, very good wines for the budget.
And Ponferada is just a very short taxi ride from Molinaseca
 

m108

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2011-2016
Burgos has a river beach - near the campsite, next to a beautiful park at the alternative entrance to Burgos. Carrion de los Condes also has a very nice beach on the river, the same next to the park (which is important because of the shade ;) )
Buen Camino!
 
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David Tallan

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2018
I am booked to arrive in Pamplona on Sept 4th and had planned to walk from SJPDP. I fractured my tibia skiing last week and now have 6+ months of recovery. I am still planning to come and will walk the last 100K from Sarria giving myself twice the time. I now have time on my hands and was looking for a lovely place to park for a week on the CF and looking for suggestions. I would like to enjoy the CF community in town, church services, and a river that would be swimmable. I will use this week to walk as well in smaller lengths to keep building up my leg.
Thanks so much for any thoughts,
Mary
My first thought for a week long stay was one of the larger towns: Logroño, Burgos, León, Astorga. They all have lots to see and do. But then I paid more attention to what you are looking for and it didn't seem to be a larger town. In a big city, the CF community is likely to not be as visible, lost in the crowds. And, while a number of the bigger towns have rivers flowing through them, I don't see many people swimming in the rivers. That leads me to think of the smaller towns and my mind moves ahead to the Bierzo region: Molinaseca or Villafranca del Bierzo. Both are small and charming, have rivers and church services. Some have said that they are too small for a week's stay. That would certainly be true if you were looking for something new and exciting to do every day. But I'm thinking that isn't what you are looking for, and a small place may suit as well or better than a larger place.
 

FRM

How do you walk the Camino? One step at a time.
Year of past OR future Camino
O'Cebreiro to Santiago (2014)
Pamplona to Sahagun (March 2019)
Sahagun to O’Cebreiro (March 2020)
Another vote for Burgos. Lots of great restaurants in the older part of town. The Museum of Human Evolution is amazing (discounted admission for pilgrims) there is also an optional tour to Atapuerca. And as others have said the cathedral is amazing. Not sure you can swim in the river, but there is a beautiful riverside walk/park.

frm
 

Roland49

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2019
And Ponferada is just a very short taxi ride from Molinaseca
Yip, I walked from Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo in 2019 via Ponferrada (and the pilgrim's hospital there). It's like in the middle of both to try the swimming-spots, good bus-service also available (or taxi).

BC
Roland
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
I have loved all of the above mentioned places.
Not sure if this city has been mentioned yet, but I had a lovely time in Logrono on two different occasions. A beautiful city not too large, not too small at 150,000 population. Beautiful park and cathedral and more. Two views here of the main street, early in the day and later on with the locals enjoying themselves.
Screenshot_20210422-073045~2.png Screenshot_20210422-073239~2.png
 
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m108

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2011-2016
Not sure you can swim in the river
They definitely swim (seen with my own eyes), even on Google Earth there are photos of the beach and swimmers. Of course, this is just an added plus for Burgos, which is a really special place
Playa Fuente del Prior (find photos on Google)

 
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gmag

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
frances 1998, 2000, 2013
I am booked to arrive in Pamplona on Sept 4th and had planned to walk from SJPDP. I fractured my tibia skiing last week and now have 6+ months of recovery. I am still planning to come and will walk the last 100K from Sarria giving myself twice the time. I now have time on my hands and was looking for a lovely place to park for a week on the CF and looking for suggestions. I would like to enjoy the CF community in town, church services, and a river that would be swimmable. I will use this week to walk as well in smaller lengths to keep building up my leg.
Thanks so much for any thoughts,
Mary
You are also welcome to stay a week with us in Frómista, where we run Albergue Luz de Frómista. Frómista is a beautiful little town, along the Canal de Castilla (unfortunately you cannot swim there), in the middle of all the romanic of the provincia of Palencia, and if you like to, Gabriel can give you a workshop on how to make an engraving, or a drawing with charcoal, so you will not get bored here, and we speak English.
 

MarkyD

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Francés 31/08/2018 - 20/10/2018
I am booked to arrive in Pamplona on Sept 4th and had planned to walk from SJPDP. I fractured my tibia skiing last week and now have 6+ months of recovery. I am still planning to come and will walk the last 100K from Sarria giving myself twice the time. I now have time on my hands and was looking for a lovely place to park for a week on the CF and looking for suggestions. I would like to enjoy the CF community in town, church services, and a river that would be swimmable. I will use this week to walk as well in smaller lengths to keep building up my leg.
Thanks so much for any thoughts,
Mary
Uff, that's unfortunate, I hope the leg recovers well. For river swimming I can suggest Cacabelos, which is also a charming small town. From there you could also do day trips to Ponferrada, Molinaseca (to the East) and Villafranca-del-Bierzo (to the West). There are rivers in all of those towns.
Other towns you could consider are:
in Navarra: Estella and Puente la Reina
in La Rioja: Logroño, Nájera and Santo Domingo de la Calzada
in Castilla-Léon: Burgos (a large town with plenty of historic and cultural interest), but for a more rural experience and more peaceful town you could try Castrojeríz. I could spend a week going every day to the wonderful Casa de Silencio there. There isn't a river, but there is a large open air public swimming pool.
In Léon: the large city of León itself, then the small towns I mentioned at the beginning which are in the region of El Bierzo.
Anyway, I'm sure you'll see many more suggestions posted here, so good luck with your choice. They'll all have their charm and interest, but check on internet for specific areas for river swimming.
Buen camino
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (2015, 2017, 2019) and plans for 2021 (Sept, Oct)
In 2017 my wife and I hiked CF with my brother and his wife. We learned about the pilgrim blessing at the Basilica de San Isidro and decided to attend. The priest was very kind. He asked the pilgrims to identify themselves by the language they spoke. “Raise your hand if you speak English”. I was standing by the alter and raised my hand. At 6’3” tall I must have caught his eye. He handed me a paper and asked me to join him on the alter. He read a line of the pilgrims prayer in Spanish then I read the same line in English. What a thrill to be part of this! Bob 53E56091-28AE-4CC6-87E3-74FD50515E9C.jpeg
 
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frbobs

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances-(2014)
Camino Portugues-(2017)
Camino Madrid (August 2019)
Sorry about your leg, agree with other members that it is quite courageous and inspiring that you are still going to go at all. My picks would be Astorga and/or Ponferrada. If you're settling on a bigger city, I would probably go with Burgos. Buen Camino
 

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NorthernLight

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Le Puy to Santiago via the Frances 2012-2013. EPW2015
Aragonese & Frances 2016
Burgos to Muxia 2017
My first thought was Molinaseca for the river.

I would have no problem spending a week in Villafranca del Bierzo. You have three camino routes out of that town (and two into it) which would give you some options for day walks. One of the private albergues would likely let you stay multiple nights, giving you some access to other pilgrims.

The larger towns likely will not give you the pilgrim experience as you will be part of the crowd.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
2002, Toulouse/Aragon 2005, Cami S Jaume/Aragon 2007/9, Mont Saint Michel/Norte/Vadiniense 2011, Norte/Primitivo 2013, Norte/Primitivo 2014. Norte 2015, Cami S Jaume/Castellano-Aragonese 2016
I found Estella an interesting town, with a cultural centre (where I scored a pilgrim rate for a baroque music concert), the Maezstu museum, and a couple of good plazas for taking a glass of vermut and doing a statistical studies of pilgrims passing by (grumpy, cheerful, overloaded, puzzled etc). Molinaseca, in spite of its lovely riparian swimming area (you will get shrieks of horror from Spaniards afraid that it might be too cold for you), might be too small for a week, but there is Ponferrada down the road.

Of the large cities, I think that Leon is more interesting and less touristy than Burgos (I've just posted on another thread with some interesting things to do). There is swimming in the Rio Esla in Mansilla las Mulas a stage east of Leon, or at least there are occasional German pilgrims swimming there. In Villafranca de Bierzo, there is a playa fluvial at the north end of the pueblo, on the far shore. In Leon there is a parque fluvial in the south of the city, by Puente Castro, but while it might be swimmable, Earth Google is not encouraging. This site (https://www.anepiceducation.com/wild-swimming-in-spain/) might provide you with many happy hours of diversion. In any case, check with the turismo, which is often a useful source of practical information.
 
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urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Sorry an injury has changed your plans, but bravo for the rehab which will get you out there, even just for part of it. If you had planned to walk from SJPdP, at 25k/day it would have taken you over 30 days. Not sure how long you are allotting for the last 100k, but even slowly, I think you will have a lot more time on your hands than a week (unless you’ve changed your return date). If so, no need to limit it to one place! Maybe 2 or 3 days in each of several places along the route might give you a better feel for the “CF community” and allow you to see more. You will get lots of walking in just exploring places like Burgos (check out the Museum of Human Evolution, cathedral), Leon, Astorga. Maybe even throw in a tiny little almost deserted tiny village in the middle of the Mesata for good measure. I have never used it, but bus service seems to be available all along the CF to get you from place to place. Whatever you decide, happy training, happy trails, and Buen Camino!
Thank you so much! I am actually there for 6 weeks. My husband will be joining me as planned at the 10-day mark. I was planning to walk the first 10 days w/o him since he could not get away that long. Once he arrives we may have a car just to make exploring a little easier on me. I am hoping I am stronger than that by then. I am planning to take 10 days to walk the last 100km just to be safe and not overdo it. We may change that if I am doing better but that seems more than achievable. I am just accepting that this is part of the lessons the Camino is offering me this year and I am listening for the graces and plans that are beyond me ;-)
 
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urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Sad to hear about your accident. Hope your rehab will be successful.

There is the possibility to swim in the river Burbia in Villafranca del Bierzo. Very nice spot.

But Villafranca is too small for aweek long stay, but you could stay in Ponferrada with it's medieval fortification and take trips to Villafranca and the Bierzo.
The Bierzo is a less known small wine-region and you will find several videos on YT about the region, just search for Bierzo / El Bierzo.

After my CF I order wine from the bodegas there on a regular basis, very good wines for the budget.
Thanks so much, this sounds lovely. We love wine areas and I will add this to the time my husband is joining me. I am headed over to youtube to check it out.
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
My first thought was Molinaseca for the river.

I would have no problem spending a week in Villafranca del Bierzo. You have three camino routes out of that town (and two into it) which would give you some options for day walks. One of the private albergues would likely let you stay multiple nights, giving you some access to other pilgrims.

The larger towns likely will not give you the pilgrim experience as you will be part of the crowd.
Thanks so much!
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Burgos has a river beach - near the campsite, next to a beautiful park at the alternative entrance to Burgos. Carrion de los Condes also has a very nice beach on the river, the same next to the park (which is important because of the shade ;) )
Buen Camino!
Thanks, this sounds ideal. Extra credit for the shade too :)
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
I love A Coruña. I spent a few days there after my 2nd Camino and could easily spend a week there!
I haven't walked the Ingles, so haven't checked it out yet...but one of these days hopefully I will.🙂🤞
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Left field ideas:

- Convalesce on the coast. Connect with pilgrims on the Camino del Norte and swim in the sea

- Don't convalesce. Buy a cheap bicycle and ride the same stages as walkers each day

- Spend the week in A Coruña and register as a resident. Walk the 70 odd km to Santiago, and use the A Coruña resident's loophole to qualify for a compostela. Bwahaha.
These are all great ideas! I love out-of-the-box thoughts and all of these are right up there. I do cycle now, well before the accident and that will be one of my rehab plans, perfect to think of adding that in the mix. I need to look more into this thought. I have plenty of time to make plans right now, haha. I have the coastal route as a possibility as well. I live in San Diego and have been doing a lot of coastal hiking here which is amazing. I had originally thought I was going to do the Norte but the CF and the experience I thought I would have pulled me off the coast.
 
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urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
My first thought for a week long stay was one of the larger towns: Logroño, Burgos, León, Astorga. They all have lots to see and do. But then I paid more attention to what you are looking for and it didn't seem to be a larger town. In a big city, the CF community is likely to not be as visible, lost in the crowds. And, while a number of the bigger towns have rivers flowing through them, I don't see many people swimming in the rivers. That leads me to think of the smaller towns and my mind moves ahead to the Bierzo region: Molinaseca or Villafranca del Bierzo. Both are small and charming, have rivers and church services. Some have said that they are too small for a week's stay. That would certainly be true if you were looking for something new and exciting to do every day. But I'm thinking that isn't what you are looking for, and a small place may suit as well or better than a larger place.
Thank you, I love a city but for this, the smaller towns are feeling like the ticket.
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
You are also welcome to stay a week with us in Frómista, where we run Albergue Luz de Frómista. Frómista is a beautiful little town, along the Canal de Castilla (unfortunately you cannot swim there), in the middle of all the romanic of the provincia of Palencia, and if you like to, Gabriel can give you a workshop on how to make an engraving, or a drawing with charcoal, so you will not get bored here, and we speak English.
Wow! What a wonderful invitation. I will reach out to you. Thanks so much.
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Uff, that's unfortunate, I hope the leg recovers well. For river swimming I can suggest Cacabelos, which is also a charming small town. From there you could also do day trips to Ponferrada, Molinaseca (to the East) and Villafranca-del-Bierzo (to the West). There are rivers in all of those towns.
Other towns you could consider are:
in Navarra: Estella and Puente la Reina
in La Rioja: Logroño, Nájera and Santo Domingo de la Calzada
in Castilla-Léon: Burgos (a large town with plenty of historic and cultural interest), but for a more rural experience and more peaceful town you could try Castrojeríz. I could spend a week going every day to the wonderful Casa de Silencio there. There isn't a river, but there is a large open air public swimming pool.
In Léon: the large city of León itself, then the small towns I mentioned at the beginning which are in the region of El Bierzo.
Anyway, I'm sure you'll see many more suggestions posted here, so good luck with your choice. They'll all have their charm and interest, but check on internet for specific areas for river swimming.
Buen camino
Thanks so much. I just watched a YT video about the Casa de Silencio, how lovely. I am grateful for the suggestion, as well as all of the others you offered.
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
Sorry about your leg, agree with other members that it is quite courageous and inspiring that you are still going to go at all. My picks would be Astorga and/or Ponferrada. If you're settling on a bigger city, I would probably go with Burgos. Buen Camino
Thanks so much!
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
I found Estella an interesting town, with a cultural centre (where I scored a pilgrim rate for a baroque music concert), the Maezstu museum, and a couple of good plazas for taking a glass of vermut and doing a statistical studies of pilgrims passing by (grumpy, cheerful, overloaded, puzzled etc). Molinaseca, in spite of its lovely riparian swimming area (you will get shrieks of horror from Spaniards afraid that it might be too cold for you), might be too small for a week, but there is Ponferrada down the road.

Of the large cities, I think that Leon is more interesting and less touristy than Burgos (I've just posted on another thread with some interesting things to do). There is swimming in the Rio Esla in Mansilla las Mulas a stage east of Leon, or at least there are occasional German pilgrims swimming there. In Villafranca de Bierzo, there is a playa fluvial at the north end of the pueblo, on the far shore. In Leon there is a parque fluvial in the south of the city, by Puente Castro, but while it might be swimmable, Earth Google is not encouraging. This site (https://www.anepiceducation.com/wild-swimming-in-spain/) might provide you with many happy hours of diversion. In any case, check with the turismo, which is often a useful source of practical information.
I love the image of Spaniards shrieking at my swimming in the cold. I have actually been swimming in water 57-64 for months ala Wim Hof Method. It has been amazing, but that is another topic.
I will check out the wild swimming website; that's a new term, and I kind of love it! I appreciate the suggestions too.
 
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Chris Gi

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Did April through June 2018 from Pamplona to Santiago.
2020 May or end of September - NO!
2021 ?
I am booked to arrive in Pamplona on Sept 4th and had planned to walk from SJPDP. I fractured my tibia skiing last week and now have 6+ months of recovery. I am still planning to come and will walk the last 100K from Sarria giving myself twice the time. I now have time on my hands and was looking for a lovely place to park for a week on the CF and looking for suggestions. I would like to enjoy the CF community in town, church services, and a river that would be swimmable. I will use this week to walk as well in smaller lengths to keep building up my leg.
Thanks so much for any thoughts,
Mary
I also am so sorry for you and your injury. The is a wonderful river for swimming in Molinaseca. Astorga is also a nice city with a chocolate factory.
 

AlwynWellington

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
please see signature
@urbanmamma, I also am sorry for your predicament.

I think my suggestion is a little different from those I have read and takes transport into account.

If you are committed to arrive in Pamplona I suggest:
Stay in Pamplona for a some days doing the things you prefer. As others have said above, much is of it is modern builds but using the old streets. You could consider walking back (about 10 km) and stay a night in the parrochial albergue at Zalbadika and return to Pamplona. Then on to Zicur Menor (less than 10 km) and stay a night. Then transfer to Compostela and do similar half day walks on as many of the various routes that separately come from south east, south, south-west, west and north.

If you are not committed to Pamplona then I suggest:
Arrive in Compostela and do half day trips exploring the many routes, other than the Frances, that arrive at the Cathedral Church of S James. This link may give you some ideas. Click on routes in the bottom right to see their names. As well of course finding many more church services. (In October 2017 when I arrived there was a Mass in English at 10h in the largish Chapel of S Andrew, in the ambulatory to the right of the High Altar, but there is much more than just the Cathedral) and the pilgrim community for not just the CF.

Not being a swimmer I did not look at any river seeking swimming hole potential, sorry.

And do not forget to go to Sarria. :rolleyes:

Whatever you decide I say, kia ka'ha, kia mā'ia, kia mana'wa'nui (be strong, confident and patient)
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
@urbanmamma, I also am sorry for your predicament.

I think my suggestion is a little different from those I have read and takes transport into account.

If you are committed to arrive in Pamplona I suggest:
Stay in Pamplona for a some days doing the things you prefer. As others have said above, much is of it is modern builds but using the old streets. You could consider walking back (about 10 km) and stay a night in the parrochial albergue at Zalbadika and return to Pamplona. Then on to Zicur Menor (less than 10 km) and stay a night. Then transfer to Compostela and do similar half day walks on as many of the various routes that separately come from south east, south, south-west, west and north.

If you are not committed to Pamplona then I suggest:
Arrive in Compostela and do half day trips exploring the many routes, other than the Frances, that arrive at the Cathedral Church of S James. This link may give you some ideas. Click on routes in the bottom right to see their names. As well of course finding many more church services. (In October 2017 when I arrived there was a Mass in English at 10h in the largish Chapel of S Andrew, in the ambulatory to the right of the High Altar, but there is much more than just the Cathedral) and the pilgrim community for not just the CF.

Not being a swimmer I did not look at any river seeking swimming hole potential, sorry.

And do not forget to go to Sarria. :rolleyes:

Whatever you decide I say, kia ka'ha, kia mā'ia, kia mana'wa'nui (be strong, confident and patient)
Thanks so much for the great suggestions and the blessing ❤️
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2017
Divergent from the subject thread, but I'll venture out anyway to say, Happy Earth Day! It was on this date in 2017 that I exited the gates of St. Jean Pied de Port and up the Route Napoleon to Orisson and Roncesvalle. Such grand memories. Sigh.
 
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AlwynWellington

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
please see signature
Divergent from the subject thread ...

Also divergent from the thread, today (23 April) is both the birth and death day for William Shakespeare. While much of his language is hard to cope with 400 years on, there are so many phrases that live on. Earlier today I saw listed 20 greeting and 40 farewells from his various plays, for passers by to note.

Lay on, Macduff (or whatever your name is), from the Scottish (a euphemism) Play comes to mind as an encouragement for those getting on with things.
 

Cdancer

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2018
I am booked to arrive in Pamplona on Sept 4th and had planned to walk from SJPDP. I fractured my tibia skiing last week and now have 6+ months of recovery. I am still planning to come and will walk the last 100K from Sarria giving myself twice the time. I now have time on my hands and was looking for a lovely place to park for a week on the CF and looking for suggestions. I would like to enjoy the CF community in town, church services, and a river that would be swimmable. I will use this week to walk as well in smaller lengths to keep building up my leg.
Thanks so much for any thoughts,
Mary
I have so many fond memories of all the places mentioned and I would try to look at your miss adventure with your leg as a way to have a special Camino for you. Remembering on my walk the special saying. “Everyone Walks their own Camino”. So make your own special Camino. I would say do as much of the Camino as possible with other means besides walking. You can ride bikes, take buses, take trains. Ride horses over O’cebrelo for 2 days. Mix and match and move at a rate that suits you. Obviously all the larger towns have a lot to see and do but to get the feel you might use alternative transport to some small
Town and stay in alburgues to meet other pilgrims You will have a blessed pilgrimage this way just as if you walked
Buen Camino
 

urbanmamma

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
I have so many fond memories of all the places mentioned and I would try to look at your miss adventure with your leg as a way to have a special Camino for you. Remembering on my walk the special saying. “Everyone Walks their own Camino”. So make your own special Camino. I would say do as much of the Camino as possible with other means besides walking. You can ride bikes, take buses, take trains. Ride horses over O’cebrelo for 2 days. Mix and match and move at a rate that suits you. Obviously all the larger towns have a lot to see and do but to get the feel you might use alternative transport to some small
Town and stay in alburgues to meet other pilgrims You will have a blessed pilgrimage this way just as if you walked
Buen Camino
Thanks so much, I really will end up with my own Camino. Since I had begun walking and training here last September I feel like my Camino has already begun and this injury and healing part of the journey matters too. I am so grateful for all of the thoughts and ideas. I am reworking my plan and choosing to walk shorter days of about 5 miles and I will use the bus to fastpass a bit to make sure I have 10 days to walk from Sarria to Santiago so I can give my best chance of walking the 100k. I am grateful to be able to have the Camino as a very tangible way to heal and regain my strength and ability.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2017
Thanks so much, I really will end up with my own Camino. Since I had begun walking and training here last September I feel like my Camino has already begun and this injury and healing part of the journey matters too. I am so grateful for all of the thoughts and ideas. I am reworking my plan and choosing to walk shorter days of about 5 miles and I will use the bus to fastpass a bit to make sure I have 10 days to walk from Sarria to Santiago so I can give my best chance of walking the 100k. I am grateful to be able to have the Camino as a very tangible way to heal and regain my strength and ability.
Concrete goals like yours, urbanmamma, can focus the mind and strengthen your resolve to heal. Good fortune to you!
 
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