LIVE from the Camino Walking the CF for Teresa

[MARSKA]

This Camino is dedicated to mi amiga Teresa and her family.

I walked many km's in 2023 with Teresa and her daughter. For Teresa, the CF was a " true pilgrimmage". A devour Catholic, she encouraged me to attend pilgrim's mass & blessings and visited almost every church along the way - I often joined her. About a month after Teresa's return home she was diagnosed with an aggressive type of breast cancer. I will pray for Teresa and her family as I walk this Camino.

Madrid's airport completed the new construction near customs! I cleared customs about 15-20 min. after getting off the plane. Very fast.

Found the airport tram downstairs. Took tram from T4s to T4 for domestic flight on Iberia. Went thru the usual hassel obtaining my reserved ticket at the Iberia desk then went to K gates per ticket info. Gate # not posted (2 hours prior to flight) . Wandered around. Asked gate agent for gate number. Told to "look at the board". I said it's not posted. Told to "wait". Circled gate area several times. Asked again. Gate was not posted until 45 min before flight!!! Arrgh! Met other Pilgrims & chatted so was nice. 4 from the US, 1 from the UK, 2 from OZ.

After arriving at PNA I went to check out the bus situation. I was told by an agent the bus stop was" a long way" and one must cross 2 major highways to access the stop. Shared a taxi with3 other Pilgrims so fare was less than 5eu each. Nice! I'm glad Pamplona is supporting their taxis (with the bus sooo inconvenient ha!). BTW, beautiful afternoon weather! Happy!

Checked into Jesus y Maria. Bed assignment was a configuration of 2 bunks pushed together (kinda like 2 double bunk beds). I was on the bottom but I surely don't want to sleep THAT close to anyone other than family!!!!! I declined and moved over to the Cathedral Albergue 10 person dorm. Wonderful hospi's at both places BTW.

Met up with a couple of forum members for pinchos and drinks - lovely people and I'm so glad we had a chance to meet and I hope our paths cross again. Around 6 it started to rain and we returned to our respective lodgings. I have a tendency to get lost in these narrow streets so Sarah was kind enough to walk with me back to the cathedral.

Back at the Albergue everyone was discussing beds. Beds beds beds. Where are they???? Why can't we find a place for tomorrow, etc. I listened but failed to understand why there was such a a strong perception of scarcity. Maybe I was just too tired. Fell asleep around 2100 in an empty dorm room - quiet & wonderful with everyone else in the common room discussing beds. Around 2300 I was awakened when people came to bed. Thought well yeah may as well use the facilities. Did so and tried to go back to sleep but oh no! No no no. Haven't been able to and now it's 0500. Long day ahead I believe!

 

[J Willhaus]

Madrid's airport completed the new construction near customs! I cleared customs about 15-20 min. after getting off the plane. Very fast.

Found the airport tram downstairs. Took tram from T4s to T4 for domestic flight on Iberia. Went thru the usual hassel obtaining my reserved ticket at the Iberia desk then went to K gates per ticket info. Gate # not posted (2 hours prior to flight) . Wandered around. Asked gate agent for gate number. Told to "look at the board". I said it's not posted. Told to "wait". Circled gate area several times. Asked again. Gate was not posted until 45 min before flight!!! Arrgh! Met other Pilgrims & chatted so was nice. 4 from the US, 1 from the UK, 2 from OZ.

After arriving at PNA I went to check out the bus situation. I was told by an agent the bus stop was" a long way" and one must cross 2 major highways to access the stop. Shared a taxi with3 other Pilgrims so fare was less than 5eu each. Nice! I'm glad Pamplona is supporting their taxis (with the bus sooo inconvenient ha!). BTW, beautiful afternoon weather! Happy!

Checked into Jesus y Maria. Bed assignment was a configuration of 2 bunks pushed together (kinda like 2 double bunk beds). I was on the bottom but I surely don't want to sleep THAT close to anyone other than family!!!!! I declined and moved over to the Cathedral Albergue 10 person dorm. Wonderful hospi's at both places BTW.

Met up with a couple of forum members for pinchos and drinks - lovely people and I'm so glad we had a chance to meet!!! Around 6 it started to rain and we returned to our respective lodgings.i have a tendency to get lost in these narrow streets so Sarah was kind enough to walk with me back to the cathedral.

Back at the Albergue everyone was discussing beds. Beds beds beds. Where are they???? Why can't we find a place for tomorrow, etc. I listened but failed to understand why there was such a a strong perception of scarcity. Maybe I was just too tired. Fell asleep around 2100 in an empty dorm room - quiet & wonderful with everyone else in the common room discussing beds. Around 2300 I was awakened when people came to bed. Thought well yeah may as well use the facilities. Did so and tried to go back to sleep but oh no! No no no. Haven't been able to and now it's 0445. Long day ahead I believe!

Ok, normal for Spain not to post flights until just before flight. You will know next time.

Are you going to start in Pamplona?Buen Camino. You are a seasoned pilgrim now. You can impart wisdom on the less experienced Pilgrims. Wish I was there.

 

[MARSKA]

I changed the title to Walking the CF for Teresa

 

[MARSKA]

Ok, normal for Spain not to post flights until just before flight. You will know next time.

Are you going to start in Pamplona?Buen Camino. You are a seasoned pilgrim now. You can impart wisdom on the less experienced Pilgrims. Wish I was there.

Yes I would have engaged in more discussion but just too tired yesterday.

Didn't know about the flight posts . Good to know!

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes I would have engaged in more discussion but just too tired yesterday.

Didn't know about the flight posts . Good to know!

It's so good to be on the Camino... look for a quiet space where you can sleep in
the next few days...even if it is something like a private room. If you can walk either before or past Puente la Reina to the next small towns. I know it is busy. Consider combining forces with another pilgrim or two for an AirBNB to get a private room in the next few days.

 

[OzAnnie]

Haven't been able to and now it's 0500. Long day ahead I believe!

I’ll bet you amazed yourself. I’ve often ‘been there’ and thought ‘ how can I walk a stage tomorrow without any sleep ?’ But I somehow find the energy next day. I think the fact that we are ‘resting’ our bodies works the magic.
I agree with @J Willhaus though… it’s lovely to have a private room night lined up . Buen camino.

 

[J Willhaus]

Jet lag is a killer...I always have to sleep.a night (or at least try) in Madrid in order to think straight.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Wish I could walk with you! You'd be great company! Keep us informed!

 

[lt56ny]

This Camino is dedicated to mi amiga Teresa and her family.

I walked many km's in 2023 with Teresa and her daughter. For Teresa, the CF was a " true pilgrimmage". A devour Catholic, she encouraged me to attend pilgrim's mass & blessings and visited almost every church along the way - I often joined her. About a month after Teresa's return home she was diagnosed with an aggressive type of breast cancer. I will pray for Teresa and her family as I walk this Camino.

Madrid's airport completed the new construction near customs! I cleared customs about 15-20 min. after getting off the plane. Very fast.

Found the airport tram downstairs. Took tram from T4s to T4 for domestic flight on Iberia. Went thru the usual hassel obtaining my reserved ticket at the Iberia desk then went to K gates per ticket info. Gate # not posted (2 hours prior to flight) . Wandered around. Asked gate agent for gate number. Told to "look at the board". I said it's not posted. Told to "wait". Circled gate area several times. Asked again. Gate was not posted until 45 min before flight!!! Arrgh! Met other Pilgrims & chatted so was nice. 4 from the US, 1 from the UK, 2 from OZ.

After arriving at PNA I went to check out the bus situation. I was told by an agent the bus stop was" a long way" and one must cross 2 major highways to access the stop. Shared a taxi with3 other Pilgrims so fare was less than 5eu each. Nice! I'm glad Pamplona is supporting their taxis (with the bus sooo inconvenient ha!). BTW, beautiful afternoon weather! Happy!

Checked into Jesus y Maria. Bed assignment was a configuration of 2 bunks pushed together (kinda like 2 double bunk beds). I was on the bottom but I surely don't want to sleep THAT close to anyone other than family!!!!! I declined and moved over to the Cathedral Albergue 10 person dorm. Wonderful hospi's at both places BTW.

Met up with a couple of forum members for pinchos and drinks - lovely people and I'm so glad we had a chance to meet and I hope our paths cross again. Around 6 it started to rain and we returned to our respective lodgings. I have a tendency to get lost in these narrow streets so Sarah was kind enough to walk with me back to the cathedral.

Back at the Albergue everyone was discussing beds. Beds beds beds. Where are they???? Why can't we find a place for tomorrow, etc. I listened but failed to understand why there was such a a strong perception of scarcity. Maybe I was just too tired. Fell asleep around 2100 in an empty dorm room - quiet & wonderful with everyone else in the common room discussing beds. Around 2300 I was awakened when people came to bed. Thought well yeah may as well use the facilities. Did so and tried to go back to sleep but oh no! No no no. Haven't been able to and now it's 0500. Long day ahead I believe!

Get ear plugs at a Ferrateria they are called tapones para los odios. At least that is what they are called in Mexico. Just get those cheap rubber ones. Twist them and then put them in your ears. To seal them just twist them in the opposite direction after they are in your ears.
I have stayed in the Jesus and Maria albergue a few times and never saw that the beds were pushed up against each other but I have always stayed on the second floor in the front part (if I remember the albergue correctly). I do remember that there are beds pushed together in other albergues. I especially remember it being the case for the beds in the middle of the room I stayed in at the Xunta in O' Ceibrerio.

 

[MARSKA]

Wish I could walk with you! You'd be great company! Keep us informed!

The feeling is mutual!

 

[FourSeasons]

I hope you are catching up on your sleep. It’s frustrating not being able to sleep. Those are the times I want to just get up and start walking. I’m really looking forward to following your pilgrimage. What a lovely season to walk. Vibrant greens and yellows. Buen Camino!!

God Bless your journey as you give up prayers for Teresa and her family.

 

[MARSKA]

Two people staying at the gite in SJPDP are ill. I'm crossing my fingers that I haven't caught "it". Please, if you are not feeling well. Coughing. Tired. Etc please get a private room. However -
I slept so well last night! Awoke refreshed and ready for the climb up to Borda. After a good breakfast and kind send-off from gite Bidean I was on my way.

Beautiful weather today! Not too hot, not too cold, no rain, very light breeze. Boy. I really missed out on the scenery last fall! Had no idea how gorgeous the climb. Lush foliage, trees in bloom, snow on the distant mountain tops.

I'm staying at the beautiful and well-managed Borda albergue tonight. I'm impressed. Very nice.A full house tonight- many from Taiwan; also Australia, England, Canada, Netherlands, and USA are bedding down here tonight.

The walk from SJPDP was much easier than I remember from last year, thank goodness! This tells me that my breathing problems were a lot worse than I thought last year - probably the rain & wind didn't help.

I think it will be cold tonight and tomorrow morning as it is cooling down quickly this evening.

I've met some interesting people and lively groups- lots of first-timers.

I am proudly wearing a necklace and toting a coin purse that have garnered many oooos and ahhhs

 

[MARSKA]

Days 3 & 4:
Borda to Roncesvalles and Roncesvalles to Zubiri

I said goodbye to Laurent at Borda and then had a magnificent walk to Roncesvalles. Beautiful weather (chilly but sunny. - perfect for walking) and clear skies with views to forever. I feel so lucky to have seen the pass in all its glory.

3 French & 3 Spanish border patrol officers were at the border checking passports. One of the officers asked me to take a picture of the 6 of them together, which I did. After I handed the camera back they all got into their official patrol cars and drove away!!!
I was told the Roncesvalles Albergue was completo. I was glad I decided a few days ago to make a reservation. There were still a few hotel rooms available.

For those following, in the end I decided to forgo buying a heavier jacket. I was lucky - my layers and very lightweight Houdini were sufficient - however, had the pass been windier or colder I'm sure I would have been seriously underdressed.

Like yesterday the weather today was gorgeous. Cool in the morning but warmed to the low 70's by late afternoon. The trees and flowers are in bloom, the mares fat with their soon-to-be born foals. Green everywhere.

I walked past the area were we sat and dressed the blisters on Teresa's feet and I couldn't help but cry a little, I so much want her to be well. Standing at the river tonight in Zubiri I remembered sitting with her as we soaked our tired feet. Sigh. Please God make her strong again.

For those wondering about beds, it is my understanding the municipal in Zubiri has beds available but the private albergues are completo tonight. The Camino seems busier than I experienced last fall but I still see no need for concern about finding una cama each night.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Days 3 & 4:
Borda to Roncesvalles and Roncesvalles to Zubiri


3 French & 3 Spanish border patrol officers were at the border checking passports. One of the officers asked me to take a picture of the 6 of them together, which I did. After I handed the camera back they all got into their official patrol cars and drove away!!!

I'm frankly shocked! I've NEVER encountered border patrol agents at the Fountain of Roland crossing! Is there something unusual going on?

 

[MARSKA]

I was surprised as well. It seems they weren't there very long - I asked people I met who were about 30 -45 min behind me and there was no patrol present when they walked past.

 

[MARSKA]

And I saw the patrols drive past the food truck on my way up, so the agents had not been present too terribly long before I arrived.

 

[MARSKA]

Day 5 Zubiri to Pamplona

The dinner Sara lovingly prepared and served us at Susiea last night was a 5 star marvel! Beautiful fresh salad, local bakery bread, fresh Basque butter, 3 ingredient soup ( one of which was fresh Basque mushrooms), then wonderful little round egg cakes in a stewed tomatoe sauce, then homemade yogurt with the barest of chocolate & apricot shavings, then small chocolates that her aunt makes, then Basque liquor. And plenty of vino tinto. 1 S. Korean, 5 Brits, 2 Scandis, 2 Dutch, 2 Canadians, and 2 North Americans at the hostel.

Leaving Zubiri this morning memories came flooding back- last fall I was lost in the heavy early morning fog just outside of Zubiri and near panic when suddenly Teresa appeared. Together we found the path hidden in the dense fog. In Larrasona we hunted together for half an hour before locating the little store/cafe & enjoying a cafe con leche. We talked and joked with the shopkeeper far longer than time allowed.

I arrived in Zabaldika late - around 1300. I thought I'd stay and so walked up the steep path to the church only to see the sign indicating it was closed till 4/15. Which I knew. But somehow forgot.

I went back to the river and decided to take the low route. It was getting hot (29c today) but as the path was shaded it wasn't too bad but I was getting tired. I walked and walked and walked, finally stopping at a Farmacia where I asked if they would please call a taxi. 16eu later I arrived near Jesus y Maria. Completo. Cathedral Albergue - completo. I called 4 more - all completo. Several pilgrims I had met were sitting outside, on their phones, bed searching.

I decided to just suck it up and get a hotel so tonight I am at Yoldi (77eu). Admittedly nice to enjoy some private time but hard on the wallet. My own fault - on a Saturday night with nice weather of course Pamplona is booked. Duh!

I'm unsure where to go tomorrow. I don't care to stay in Pamplona but also don't care to walk through Pamplona and up Alto de Ferro. My Camino buddies have dispersed so I'm on my own.

 

[Sheesh]

...
I'm unsure where to go tomorrow. I don't care to stay in Pamplona but also don't care to walk through Pamplona and up Alto de Ferro. My Camino buddies have dispersed so I'm on my own.

This might be an option for you @MARSKA:

Get the La Estellesa bus from Pamplona to Legarda. There is a bus leaving at 10:00 and another at 13:30 on Sunday, and the ride takes 20 minutes. The bus doesn't actually go into the hamlet of Legarda, but lets you off on the highway opposite it. From there you can walk into Legarda (which is tiny) and then cut across country (about 1.5 km on farmland trails) to Uterga and then proceed on to Puente la Reina, or further. I did this in 2022 and also took the detour to the lovely Church of Saint Mary of Eunate. It may not be open, but it's a pleasant walk and you can go into the grounds surrounding the Church.

A forum member Mikel Olivares kindly added a photo of the view of Uterga from Legarda into the Forum Media Resources:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/camino-photos/view-of-uterga-from-legarda.11109/

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

And I saw the patrols drive past the food truck on my way up, so the agents had not been present too terribly long before I arrived.

C'mon, you're too modest. They'd heard that the world famous forum legend @MARSKA was coming, and wanted to be able to boast that they'd had their photo taken by you.
Far more meaningful than any old selfie!

 

[Kathar1na]

3 French & 3 Spanish border patrol officers were at the border checking passports. One of the officers asked me to take a picture of the 6 of them together, which I did. After I handed the camera back they all got into their official patrol cars and drove away!!!

I just have to ask to be sure: They did ask to see national passports and national ID cards and performed identity controls? It is a little surprising and presumably part of more visibility in the context of their joint cross-border units but what surprises me more is the fact that there were as many as 6 of them and that they asked a passer-by to take a souvenir photo of their group.

Buen Camino, @MARSKA !

 

[MARSKA]

I just have to ask to be sure: They did ask to see national passports and national ID cards and performed identity controls? It is a little surprising and presumably part of more visibility in the context of their joint cross-border units but what surprises me more is the fact that there were as many as 6 of them and that they asked a passer-by to take a souvenir photo of their group.

Buen Camino, @MARSKA !

Yes there were 3 French and 3 Spanish agents. Yes they asked for my passport. And yes they asked me to take a picture of them together, with one of their phones. I know it's odd and that's why it caught my attention and thus I posted about the encounter.

 

[MARSKA]

I am so very grateful for the super weather that has allowed me to experience the spectacular views over the Roncevalles pass, the Alto de Perdon, and the walk early this morning. Well. All of the Camino so far has been beautiful. Stopping now for breakfast at PLR - coffee, eggs, toast Right now life is very, very good.

 

[MARSKA]

This might be an option for you @MARSKA:

Get the La Estellesa bus from Pamplona to Legarda. There is a bus leaving at 10:00 and another at 13:30 on Sunday, and the ride takes 20 minutes. The bus doesn't actually go into the hamlet of Legarda, but lets you off on the highway opposite it. From there you can walk into Legarda (which is tiny) and then cut across country (about 1.5 km on farmland trails) to Uterga and then proceed on to Puente la Reina, or further. I did this in 2022 and also took the detour to the lovely Church of Saint Mary of Eunate. It may not be open, but it's a pleasant walk and you can go into the grounds surrounding the Church.

A forum member Mikel Olivares kindly added a photo of the view of Uterga from Legarda into the Forum Media Resources:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/camino-photos/view-of-uterga-from-legarda.11109/

Somehow I missed your post, Sheesh. If I had seen it I def would have gone this route! Well. Next time.yhank you for caring enough to post the recommendation!

 

[MARSKA]

Day ?
I'm losing track of the days.
Uterga to Villatuerta - another day of beautiful weather. A littler cooler than the past few YESSS! I like being comfortable walking later into the day.

I was ready for the steep climb after PLR but forgot about the ups & downs & ups before Lorca. Nice downhill from Lorca to Villatuerta though.

Interesting discussions today about ethnic/national/cultural stereotypes - so difficult to keep from being trapped in them AND from trapping others. I found myself pre-judging others based upon nationality a couple of times today.

Not sure about where to end tomorrow. I've agreed with some Camino buddies to stay at a "palace" in Sansol on Friday. If I get too far ahead I'll need to backtrack.

 

[David Tallan]

Day ?
I'm losing track of the days.

Isn't it great when this happens?

 

[MARSKA]

Isn't it great when this happens?

Yes it is!!!

 

[MARSKA]

Day ??
I was ready for the steep climb out of Puenta La Reina but forgot about the climb into Lorca. Very relieved to find Lorca to Villatuerta downhill- ya know the feeling when you think you are there but instead find another even steeper hill?

Day ???
I thank God for the beautiful weather and amazing nature on the walk from Villatuerta to Monjarin. Also for the company of a group of North Americans who invited me to join them in some revelry! You know who you are!

Day ????
A perfect day to walk Monjarin to Sansol. The poppies and daisies and yellow flowers and pink trees are in bloom everywhere! I passed by the park,-like area where I had lunch with Teresa etc al and sat on the bench where we had our picnic last fall. I can see her face clear as day- healthy, happy, joyful. I sat in the grass for a long time thinking and praying.

Fewer pilgrims now. Long stretches where one can walk alone,listening to nothing except the wind and birdsong.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

What's the latest?

 

[MARSKA]

So caught up in the Camino! I have heard from mi amiga Teresa for whom I walk that she is feeling a little better and only 2 more chemo treatments. Thank God!!!! The treatments make her very ill for a week but the cancer is losing at least for now. This makes me very glad

Im truly blessed by God as the weather is perfect ( except for a good soaking this afternoon). I am in Boadilla tonight under the care of Eduardo at his albergue. Arrived soaking wet and was immediately shown to my bed - pay & PP check later. So good to be warm and dry and cared for.

This Camino is more solitary than #1. But I am finding it is freeing. I am meeting many peregrinos but feel less dependent on belonging to a group. Although I loved my social Camino #1 I am also loving my more solitary #2.

I feel more confident and stronger. The hills are nothing.i am not afraid or anxious. I walk well and sleep well. I am content.

The hills and fields are lush and green, trees and bushes in bloom and the lilacs smell wonderful! Is there a "Camino fragrance"? I think there is - I smell it on the path and on my clothes. I hear birds everywhere. Oh! I saw the processionary caterpillars and took a picture!

 

[MARSKA]

 

[OzAnnie]

I feel more confident and stronger. The hills are nothing.i am not afraid or anxious. I walk well and sleep well. I am content.

So good to read this and must say - that it is obvious reading your posts that you have relaxed and are really ‘getting it’
So good to hear about your friend Teresa .

Buen camino