Timing a Le Puy GR65 Trek

[FSP]

I'm thinking about planning a Le Puy trek for next year and am reading through the Cicerone Guide, this forum and watching some youtube videos. The sources note it is less busy than the France' route yet then go on to note how booked up it is and the necessity to make reservations almost everywhere. I've been very privileged on my past Camino treks to enjoy the serendipity of not usually booking ahead. For me, I'm not saying for everyone, it is this difference that makes a Camino trek unique. I'm also a back country backpacker and am thinking maybe it would be best to camp at least some of it. Once in SJPD I would branch off onto the GR10 Pyrenees route to Hendaye. Actually, I'd prefer to hike the GR10 but don't have the time in the seasonal restrictions to do that full route in one epic hike. Is there a start date from Le Puy that would still allow for decent weather but see fewer trekkers?
Thank you
Frank

 

[Former member 104756]

Hi Frank, The Le Puy Way, though still the most popular of the Camino paths in France, has far fewer walkers than the Frances. Booking ahead is not mandatory but can be worthwhile as French gites are usually smaller than Spanish albergues, fewer beds, rarely bunk beds and will often offer demi pension (dinner, bed and breakfast) so your hosts like to know in advance how many people to cater for. That's why you will hear more reports of things being booked ahead. That said 'bookings' are more informal- usually a phone call a day or two in advance.

To get a handle on how the Le Puy Way differs to the Frances in terms of accommodation, reservations and other aspects, it could be worth your while to look at this resource from @andycohn

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/the-way-of-le-puy-all-the-stuff-you-wanna-know-or-oughta-wanna-know-before-starting-out.732/

Many French (and other European) walkers make their pilgrimage a week or two at a time - a long term commitment over many years. The next year they pick up where they left off. In addition, there are non pilgrim hikers who walk sections of the GR65/Chemin du Puy.

That's one of the reasons why May, for example, can be a particularly busy month as there are usually three Mondays in May that are public holidays in France - making three long weekends. These are good opportunities for people to string together vacation time - whether they are walking as pilgrims or as general hikers.

It's a beautiful path.

 

[Ronald H]

I'm thinking about planning a Le Puy trek for next year and am reading through the Cicerone Guide, this forum and watching some youtube videos. The sources note it is less busy than the France' route yet then go on to note how booked up it is and the necessity to make reservations almost everywhere. I've been very privileged on my past Camino treks to enjoy the serendipity of not usually booking ahead. For me, I'm not saying for everyone, it is this difference that makes a Camino trek unique. I'm also a back country backpacker and am thinking maybe it would be best to camp at least some of it. Once in SJPD I would branch off onto the GR10 Pyrenees route to Hendaye. Actually, I'd prefer to hike the GR10 but don't have the time in the seasonal restrictions to do that full route in one epic hike. Is there a start date from Le Puy that would still allow for decent weather but see fewer trekkers?
Thank you
Frank

Here is what my wife and I did in 2016:

 

[good_old_shoes]

The way from Le Puy has less pilgrims walking, but also much less accommodation choice. That's why even though the numbers are lower, it can still be very "busy" at times.

Making reservations is also recommended because many gites in remote areas will only prepare food for the number of pilgrims that have made a reservation.

If you think you might want to camp at least part of it, I'd say that's a very good idea. The via podiensis has countless campsites, many gites will also allow you to camp in their garden for a reduced fee, and even wild camping / bivouac is usually tolerated if you do so in a respectful way (no fire, leave no trace).

I've got a campsite list for that way if you want one, but most campsites are also listed in the miam miam dodo, and also the gites that allow camping.

Edit to add more info: I walked 2017 in may, and 2022 in june. Took a tent both times. Only "needed" it three times in may but chose to camp more often. It was busy but not crowded and a lovely time to walk. Campsites almost empty and very quiet.

In june there were less walkers, gites often half empty. More people on the campsites but still quiet. I camped almost every night.

When I decided to stay in a gite, I did not make reservations and with the tent as a backup plan that worked perfectly for me. If you expect dinner, you should call at least midday of the same day though, to let the hosts know.

 

[Kitsambler]

More info on the many difference between CF and Le Puy: https://kitsambler.wordpress.com/2023/01/07/le-puy-route-is-not-camino-frances/

If you truly want to miss the crowds, either start mid-week after Easter (get past Cahors before 1 May), or else mid-week after Whitsuntide.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

We walked from Toulouse to the Arles to the Aragones 6 years ago, crossing the Pyrenees at Somport. Gorgeous, unforgettable. But...we learned how different it is walking in France than Spain. This year, walking the Podiensis from Le Puy, it is truly as lovely as any Camino. I rank it up there with the Primitivo. But...it is France, so very different than walking on Spain.

Here's my advice if you want to wing it. Stop at the association of gites office Le Puy and discuss how you plan to walk. They can help you with the zillions of gites along the way, many in lovely locations not in towns. They will tell you which ones you are likely not to need reservations for, which ones you must.
Podiensis is indeed a magical Camino, but not for a first timer nor for anyone who expects it to be like Spain.

 

[BrianLCrabtree]

I departed Le Puy 10 August and arrived SJPdP 11 September in 31 stages, including the Rocamadour variant (great!). I booked ahead a few days, generally with demi pension. I had two instances of a gite being fully booked when I called but had no problem finding something else. Several were full the night I stayed, but I stayed at three where I was the only guest. I think the best reason to book ahead at least a day is so the gite owners can plan for food.

 

[FSP]

The way from Le Puy has less pilgrims walking, but also much less accommodation choice. That's why even though the numbers are lower, it can still be very "busy" at times.

Making reservations is also recommended because many gites in remote areas will only prepare food for the number of pilgrims that have made a reservation.

If you think you might want to camp at least part of it, I'd say that's a very good idea. The via podiensis has countless campsites, many gites will also allow you to camp in their garden for a reduced fee, and even wild camping / bivouac is usually tolerated if you do so in a respectful way (no fire, leave no trace).

I've got a campsite list for that way if you want one, but most campsites are also listed in the miam miam dodo, and also the gites that allow camping.

Edit to add more info: I walked 2017 in may, and 2022 in june. Took a tent both times. Only "needed" it three times in may but chose to camp more often. It was busy but not crowded and a lovely time to walk. Campsites almost empty and very quiet.

In june there were less walkers, gites often half empty. More people on the campsites but still quiet. I camped almost every night.

When I decided to stay in a gite, I did not make reservations and with the tent as a backup plan that worked perfectly for me. If you expect dinner, you should call at least midday of the same day though, to let the hosts know.

Thank you for the information. I'm like you,I prefer the freedom that backpacking with my tent provides. I found an app that lists 90+ campsites along the route. https://hiiker.app/trails/france/le-puy-en-velay/gr-65/accommodations . Thanks to everyone else as well for the replies, much appreciated.
Frank

 

[good_old_shoes]

I found an app that lists 90+ campsites along the route. https://hiiker.app/trails/france/le-puy-en-velay/gr-65/accommodations .

It is really a perfect route for those who like to camp.

What's really nice is that additionally to the many campgrounds, often you can also camp at the gites. So if you want the company of other pilgrims but don't want to make reservations, that can be a perfect solution - just walk to the gite where you'd like to sleep, ask for a bed, if there's no bed there's usually either a spot in the garden for your tent in that gite or another closeby, or a campsite not far away...

The "relais de jacobins" in Cahors for example allows camping in their garden and has a good pilgrim spirit.

There are also a few spots where you can sleep and don't even need a tent, like the réfuge de la béate (simple shelter with open access).

Anyway, happy planning and bon chemin!

 

[Robo]

This year, walking the Podiensis from Le Puy, it is truly as lovely as any Camino. But...it is France, so very different than walking on Spain.

what would you say are the main differences? We enjoy France, but have not walked there yet….. should I be worried?

 

[Former member 104756]

Robo. See my post #2 above with a few thoughts and includes a link to an informative article by @andycohn discussing differences to the Frances.

In my experience the vast majority of people who walk the Le Puy Way enjoy it immensely and come to appreciate the differences.

I don’t think you should be worried. On the contrary.

 

[Robo]

Robo. See my post #2 above with a few thoughts and includes a link to an informative article by @andycohn discussing differences to the Frances.

In my experience the vast majority of people who walk the Le Puy Way enjoy it immensely and come to appreciate the differences.

I don’t think you should be worried. On the contrary.

Thanks, I have now read both the links and have started watching a few videos.
Looks great.

 

[Former member 104756]

Thanks, I have now read both the links and have started watching a few videos.
Looks great.

@Robo - just to add. Le Puy itself is a beautiful town with where the camino - le Chemin - has a strong presence, a town well worth at least a day to visit. And the start from Le Puy Cathedral is something special - an early morning pilgrims mass and/or blessing to send you on your Way.

 

[Robo]

@Robo - just to add. Le Puy itself is a beautiful town with where the camino - le Chemin - has a strong presence, a town well worth at least a day to visit. And the start from Le Puy Cathedral is something special - an early morning pilgrims mass and/or blessing to send you on your Way.

I'm very tempted. But the more I read about it, I'm not sure it's a good route for Pat. She does like a bit more infrastructure and choice

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Robo - just to add. Le Puy itself is a beautiful town with where the camino - le Chemin - has a strong presence, a town well worth at least a day to visit. And the start from Le Puy Cathedral is something special - an early morning pilgrims mass and/or blessing to send you on your Way.

Totally agree!

 

[Pafayac]

When arriving in SJPP from Podiensis on july 2022, the hospitalero told us:
"You just completed the french part of the Camino, now you are going to walk the spanish part: forget all you know in order to appreciate it."
It is a good advice: I love walking on via Podienis. I love walking on the Camino Frances, Camino de San Salvador, Camino Primitivo... Spanish caminos and french ones are both part of the Camino, they have similarity, but they are also different. Do not try to compare them and enjoy them !

 

[vleadbe]

I walked Le Puy to Finisterre via Norte and Primitivo in 2022. Best experience of my life. I took a tent and did a mixture of camping and gites in France, mainly because of the cost of gites. I used the guide book miam miam dodo and although it was in French (of which I speak none) it was invaluable to me. It has all accommodation listed and maps with symbols. It even lists if the gite will let you camp. I would book a few days in advance via the email adresses in the guidebook, mainly because i couldnt speak French and it was easier to be expected than turn up and try and communicate i wanted a room or camp spot. I would do a few days camping then a day at a gite with dinner. I often found the breakfasts not worth the money so would only request bed and dinner. French campsites are cheap and brilliant. Most do a pilgrim price, I never paid more then ten euros, usually it was five or eight. Most even had a swimming pool. I knew other people who wild camped as well, as long as your respectful and sensible it's tolerated. There is less infrastructure than the Frances, but I wouldn't say less than the Primitivo for example. Be aware nothing will be open Sundays and Mondays and plan accordingly in terms of snacks. The French part was by far my favourite part. I was warned to forget it as I entered Spain, but I couldn't and pined for it the whole way. The Norte was nice and the Primitivo just about rescued the Spanish section for me. The Podiensis made me think of what I imagine the earlier days of the Frances to have been. The locals (in my experience) love pilgrims, many villages leave out a "pilgrim stop" with snacks and drinks which you can help yourself with a donation box. Farmers left tables of fruit next to their fields. Locals would hurry over to ask me where I was from and where I was going. Churches were always open and welcomed pilgrims to have a rest. I couldn't recommend it enough.

 

[Kitsambler]

The French part was by far my favourite part. I was warned to forget it as I entered Spain, but I couldn't and pined for it the whole way.

Ditto! Ditto! Ditto!

 

[storiestellr]

I've been debating whether to walk again (after two incredible Frances in 22 and 23), and while the question of 'if' is basically answered already (how could I possibly resist?), I'm pondering whether to walk from Le Puy - to either Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, or just keep walking, who knows.
I loved the social aspects of the Frances; but I also love La France Profonde, and walking it has always tempted me. Plus I speak French fluently, and it would give me a good opportunity to brush up on it.
So anyway, I've just received vol. 1 of the current Miam Miam Dodo guide - let's see what happens....

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Plus I speak French fluently, and it would give me a good opportunity to brush up on it.
So anyway, I've just received vol. 1 of the current Miam Miam Dodo guide - let's see what happens....

It sounds like you should walk the Le Puy! You speak fluent French and already have the current MMD guide; two wins right off the bat! You can choose to continue on after SJPdP if you have the time and the energy.

 

[storiestellr]

It sounds like you should walk the Le Puy! You speak fluent French and already have the current MMD guide; two wins right off the bat! You can choose to continue on after SJPdP if you have the time and the energy.

yeah at this point, it seems hard to resist!

 

[storiestellr]

watching YouTube videos of the Via Podiensis, I noticed how the weather was often dicy, cold, and rainy in early Summer, which seemed odd, since I'd assume the South of France would be quite balmy by then.
I asked ChatGPT to summarize the temperatures, and this is indeed what was confirmed:

Historically, the weather in the Le Puy-en-Velay region of France during May and June has been mild to warm. In May, the weather is moderately chilly with average highs of 61°F (16°C) and lows of 42°F (5°C). May also has the most days of rain alone, with an average of 9.5 days, and a peak probability of rain of 32% on May 7.

In June, the average daily high temperatures increase from 66°F to 73°F. The weather generally feels mildly cool with a gentle breeze, with an average high of 70°F (21°C) and a low of 49°F (10°C). The fraction of time spent overcast or mostly cloudy decreases in June. The warm season in Le Puy-en-Velay lasts from June 14 to September 7, with an average daily high temperature above 69°F.

Truth be told, this give me pause (at least for a May Camino). What has your experience been like, anecdotally?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I walked the last few days of May and most of June. I'd say Ai is quite accurate from the weather I had. The first week or so it did cloud over in the later afternoon and rain a bit, but it would clear up after an hour. Mostly we had perfect temps and sunshine in June.