Tui - Santiago starting May 2

[BobM]

I will be leaving Tui on May 2 & hope to see many (not TOO many :wink: ) pilgrims toiling along with me.

I think arriving in Santiago again after walking the Camino Frances a few years ago will feel a little weird. Maybe better.

The first time was pretty much a blur of emotions/sleep/eat-eat-eat/sensory-overload.

Rgds

Bob M

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Buen Camino Bob - have a great pilgrimage. See you in Santiago.

John

 

[robertt]

It's a good little Camino, Bob. Enjoy Pontevedra!

Rob

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

It's a good little Camino, Bob. Enjoy Pontevedra!

Rob

Not so much of the "little" Rob!!! The Camino Portuguese gave me the Camino Bug - not in any beds I hasten to add, but I enjoyed it so much last year that this year I'm on the Via de la Plata. In Tui I would advise against staying in the albergue near the main square. It has a loose grating outside which rattles every time a car goes over it. It was my worst night on the camino.
Take your time and just enjoy the experience and the friendship of fellow peregrinos...
You can check out my Camino Portuguese diary, with photos at http://www.calig.co.uk/camino_de_santiago.htm
Buen camino!
Stephen

 

[BobM]

I walked from Tui to Porrino on Tuesday. There were some nice sections, but the 3-4km walk along the highway through the industrial estate, with heavy traffic roaring past a few metres away was one of the lesser-enjoyable walks I have done. It must be really horrible on a hot summer day. The same comment applies to the 2+ km leaving Porrino nest day.

Waymarks are good up to Porrino. Thru Porrino youi need to be vigilant. Some waymarks seem to be missing due to road works (my guess).

BTW there is an excellent cafe (Bar O Novo Cazador) just before you face the horrible walk into to Porrino Porrino. It's just after you come out of the trees, pass a big open area with tables under cover with a "view" (horrible), then descend 200m or so down the road. There is a small roadside sign offering snacks, but the actual cafe is just round the corner. You could easily miss it if you were focussing on reaching the pleasures of the Porrino indusstrial estate.

The lady is very kind. Huge cheese/tomato bocadillo on crunchy roll for 3Euro. Chocolate drink for 1.5 Euro. Clean toilet.

Rain all day, coming in squalls. Somebody has to do something about that bloody Atlantic Ocean. it's ruining my Camino, dammit!!

Today I walked to Arcade (24km). See above re RAIN (which falls in this part of Spain too often for my liking). But my gear kept me dry and toasty warm. Pack cover, goretex jacket/pants/boots. I will do anything to make sure water does not get in my pack, so please, no one poke fun at my belt-and-braces rain gear. Even my feet were dry all day, which astounded me.

The boots were a revelation. Normally I wear shoes, but the soles of my old ones finally wore too smooth for safety, so I broke all the "rules" about boots and bought new ones in Tui. Actually all the rules about breaking-in boots before a big walk are hangovers from the days of leather boots, which really did have to be broken-in. Modern designs and fabrics are pretty fantastic from that point of view. If I get a sunny day (improbable - see remark about Atlantic above), I will try sandals.

Waymarks thru Redondela to Arcade were good.

The descending walk out of the forest overlooking the Ria de Vigo was beautiful. The preceding climb was fairly relentless in places.

Anyway, that's it for now. Will post more depending on access to wifi spots.

As I close, the sun is out, all is wonderful. IT'S A MIRACLE.

Rgds

Bob M

 

[BobM]

The Hotel Isape (http://www.hotel-isape.com/) is a great place to stay in Acade. The location is maybe 600m off the Camino Portugues Route.

It is very quiet, with great views over the Ria de Vigo to the Galician hills beyond. The

There is a lovely little church just across the road.

The restaurant is excellent, with good choices and big servings.

The staff are friendly and very helpful. Free wifi internet access (fast) is available in the rooms.

I think it is a small family hotel. The owner is also the chef.

Times are tough in Spain, and it must be especially difficult for hotels in small towns like Acade. The good ones like Hotel Isape deserve support.

Bob M

 

[anniethenurse]

Buen Camino, Bob!
annie

 

[BobM]

May 4. A short 12km walk into Pontevedra in relentless rain, sometimes very heavy. But my rain gear is doing well. Actually, while sweating on the climbs you get wet from the inside out. The bridge out of Acade was nice, then began a relentless climb on nice country paths, some strewn with boulders, other merely rocky. The last couple of km into Pontevedra was along the usual busy road. It's so much FUN having traffic hurtling past a few metres away.

Waymarks excellent on this stage.

All the pilgrims I met today were German, which reminded me of an allegedly German proverb translated roughly for me by a friend at home. It goes something like this: "When the angels travel, the weather is fine".

Well, given the rain today, obviously none of us were angels.

Can't somebody fix the Atlantic Ocean and send the rain south where people need it?

Regards

Bob M

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Bob,

I´m enjoying your reports. But just so you know, I am currently in southern Portugal, and it is raining like crazy here. Every so often, the rain stops and the sun comes out just to mess with us, but inevitably the clouds return and the downpour starts again.

We can take some solace in the fact that the entire Iberian peninsula is seriously water-deprived.

Having said that, though, I admit that I am really hoping that the rain is gone before I start MY camino on May 26.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[mspath]

May 4. A short 12km walk into Pontevedra in relentless rain, sometimes very heavy. But my rain gear is doing well. Actually, while sweating on the climbs you get wet from the inside out. The bridge out of Acade was nice, then began a relentless climb on nice country paths, some strewn with boulders, other merely rocky. The last couple of km into Pontevedra was along the usual busy road. It's so much FUN having traffic hurtling past a few metres away.

Waymarks excellent on this stage.

All the pilgrims I met today were German, which reminded me of an allegedly German proverb translated roughly for me by a friend at home. It goes something like this: "When the angels travel, the weather is fine".

Well, given the rain today, obviously none of us were angels.

Can't somebody fix the Atlantic Ocean and send the rain south where people need it?

Regards

Bob M

Hello Bob,

Your posts are great and bring back some recent memories. Last December after finishing the CF I continued to Finisterre, per usual, and then walked to the Portuguese border at Tui going backward along the Camino Portuguese from Santiago. To go backward is more complicated than you might think; searching for the famous yellow arrows pointing opposite my direction wasn't easy. Viewed backwards the arrows resembled anchors. Thus it all was a bit of a treasure hunt! As you note the nearby traffic at times was overwhelming especially in thick, wet fog. Ah, memories.

I hope that the sun comes out soon for you!

Buen Camino,

Margaret

 

[gatothecat]

Bob,

Thanks for the updates! I'm starting from Porto on May 8, and am glad for the tips.

 

[sulu]

Hi Bob M
The relentless rain doesn't seem to have affected your optimism, I'm sure that walk into O Porrino, through the industrial estate, was 10-12km! It certainly felt like it.
I'm sorry you're walking in the rain, sorry for anyone walking in the rain at the moment, but Galicia does desparately need this rain. We had a very dry winter
Keep smiling, Buen camino
Sue

 

[BobM]

Today I am in Caldas de Reis (24km).

Wonderful walk on country paths, thru farmlands. Except: MORE RAIN!! There was one bright, beautiful moment of SUN. Hope sprang anew in the human breast that our trials might be over. But the rain came again, pretty much all day. Altho now it looks to be clearing up.

Excellent waymarks, at least for those walking the CP the "right" way. I feel for those walking the CP in reverse. They must develop a permanent crick in the neck from looking round to see the arrows (or anchors, as Margaret called them very appropriately).

Anyway, Caldas de Reis is one of the loveliest stops ever. Beautiful river with a boardwalk on the bank. Tree-covered cafes. And now, in spring, all nature is bursting forth. As I walked along the bank I was hit with strong smells of some small creamy-white flower on a bushy vine. Smells like Daphne Odora, but that grows on a shrub.

On the walk I often met a couple, with the lady towing a small 2-wheel cart all the way from Oporto.

One thing I have to mention is the kindness of Galicians. Invariably, when I have stopped to look for waymarks, someone has shown me the way unasked. On two occasions I have been accompanied in towns to be really sure I don't go astray. Maybe I look unusually incompetent that the locals are so alarmed for my well-being that they feel an obligation to help.

In fact, when you observe Galicians closely "en famille" they are really kind to one another.

Spring is a nice time to walk. Birds frantically singing for mates. All sorts of litlte creatures on the ground - slugs, snails, earthworms. No millipedes yet, or mice - too early in the season.

Oh, about the Atlantic Ocean. It can stay there. It's the big low pressure system parked off Spain that is the problem.

That's it. Tomorrow to Padron.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

May 6 Caldas de Reis to Padron (20km)

The first few hours were poncho-wearing rainy, then the rain stopped and sunny breaks occurred. The walk was very enjoyable today, mostly along flat country paths with very few sections on main roads.

There was a police checkpoint looking at credencials and giving a sello. Not sure what that was about. It had some serious purpose and was not just PR friendliness.

Waymarks were very good.

Other than the Iglesia Santiago with its rock where St James was wrecked, Padron is nothing special. Quite nice but not special like Caldas de Rias was.

Tomorrow's stage to Santiago is 24km. It's too long because I will arrive in Santiago in the afternoon. It would be better to walk further and find accommodation closer to Santiago so you arrive in the morning.

Regards

Bob M

 

[BobM]

A few more thoughts from Caldas de Rias

There are a few other nice things in Caldas de Rias. The hot springs near the Hotel Davilas are wonderfully refreshing to tired feet, almost too hot to bear. The source is under the hotel, which has various health spas to offer.

It was almost certainly the site for ancient Roman baths. One can imagine tired legions refreshing themselves here after trudging all day along the Via Romana XIX.

There are remnants of the old Roman bridge across the Rio Umia, although they are a bit like Grandpa's axe which had three new heads and seven new handles, but was still the same axe.
The Romans used semicircular arches - they had not discovered the techniques to make "flatter" arches. The bridge originally had 6 Roman arches, and the shapes of two remain, but it has been modernised in later times to have fewer "flat" arches. Maybe the central section failed in a flood and forced a rebuild.

I don't know, but one of the interesting things to do on these walks is to reflect on things we see and wonder "why is it so?"

Two day's ago I stood by a Roman milepost that had been there for about 2000 years. Two milennia ago, exactly where I stood, a group of Roman soldiers would have been at work installing that milepost, joking and cursing as workers do today.

Immerse your self in these reflections and you can almost feel the presence of those long-dead men, busy right where I was standing. So much so that you want to get out of their way as they work around you. Who is this ghost from the future getting in our way?

Did any of those soldiers, when the job was done, wonder how long it would last? If you dig there, you might find traces of their existence: a broken tool, maybe a part of a uniform torn off during the job.

Connections across time.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Here are a few general thoughts that might be useful.

Guidebooks

On past caminos I have used Brierley's guidebook for the CF, and Miam Miam Dodo for the VP. They are both quite good, although very different.

The problem with guidebooks is getting too focussed on following turn-by-turn instructions. Sometimes these can be misleading if conditions change.

On this section of the CP, I simply followed the waymarks with no guidebook other than daily stage maps to give me a general idea of my progress. That is working fine, but I have no information on interesting sites along the route, such as Brierley's guides have.

Either approach seems OK to me.

Footwear

On past caminos I have worn ordinary walking shoes without any problem, even in rainy weather. But I have changed my thinking a bit.

On hot days, well-ventilated shoes (or sandals) are best for me because my feet don't overheat and get hot spots/blisters, especially on long sections of hot road tarmac.

But in colder, very wet weather like now on the CP, I think lightweight goretex boots give better foot protection. There is certainly a big psychological advantage in walking with dry feet.

Daily Routine

I eat apricots or nuts as I walk, but every 2 hours (about 8km) I stop for 15 - 20 minutes to eat a ham/cheese roll that I make myself.

Occasionally, if convenient, I might stop at a cafe for a hot drink.

For me it is important to break the walk up into these 2-hour segments to regain freshness.

When I arrive at my accommodation, I always have another ham/cheese roll and some pieces of chocolate before doing my chores. The chocolate is my one indulgence and it has a very positive motivational impact.

Obviously, what works for me may not suit others.

Rgds

Bob M

 

[BobM]

May 7 Padron - Santiago (24km)

Today was memorably horrible - and not only for my old nemesis, the low pressure system parked off Spain that dumped heavy rain on me (AGAIN!!) for the whole day except for 1-2 hours in the morning – but also for an unfriendly interaction at Casalonga, near O Seve.

You have to watch out for waymarks on this stage. About 40m before the big T-junction at Casalonga there is an easy to miss waymark showing the correct route turning left off the main road. I missed it and continued to the T-junction, then wandered about looking for a waymark.

At that point a group of 3 pilgrims appeared out of nowhere from behind me and walked off to a cafe. I eventually went in and asked them if they had seen the waymark. I got an irritated look and such brief directions that I had to ask for clarification. Their response was bordering on rudeness, so I was glad to see the back of those "pilgrims". These folk had obviously had a bad day, (like we all do) but why dump their black cloud of horribleness on me?

You have to be vigilant about waymarks on this stage, especially after O Seve and close to Santiago. Some are obscurely placed. Some are temporary yellow arrows sprayed on the road and walls near construction works. You can trust the yellow arrows on the road, but I was especially wary at first, because local fun runs, bike rides etc often use sprayed arrows to indicate their special routes. It's not a problem now, but in summer there could be local events with all kinds of specific route markings.

Anyway, I reached the Cathedral in light rain, soaked from the inside out by the relentless uphill stretches near Santiago.

I had a private moment of thanks at the brass plaque in front of the Cathedral, then visited the absent Jesse Tree (it's being restored offsite), gave my old friend St James a dripping wet-poncho hug and reflected in the Cathedral for a few moments.

I felt quite subdued. The weather did not help, and having walked only 6 days made it feel less like a pilgrimage and more like a hiking holiday. It was also a bad idea to have a full day's walking into Santiago. Try to arrange stages so that you stop at Teo, for example, and have a more relaxing final day to Santiago.

It is almost Journey's End for me, except for tomorrow's mass - but also the beginning of another journey.

There is a wonderful quote from "A Journey to Portugal" by Jose Saramago, Nobel Laureate, who died a few years ago at the age of 87: His books are wonderful, BTW. Read "Seeing" and also "Blindness."

"The end of one journey is simply the start of another. You have to see what you missed the first time, see again what you already saw, see in springtime what you saw in summer, in daylight what you saw at night, see the sun shining where you saw the rain falling, see crops growing, the fruit ripen, the stone which has moved, the shadow that was not there before. You have to go back to the footsteps already taken, to go over them again or add fresh ones alongside them. You have to start the journey anew. Always".
I hope to post a wrap-up tomorrow.

Rgds

Bob M

 

[Davroos]

Why didn't you start in Porto? Your walk would have been longer and you would have seen the nicer side of the CP, Portugal !!!

 

[miguel_gp]

Why didn't you start in Porto? Your walk would have been longer and you would have seen the nicer side of the CP, Portugal !!!

Given the weather here recently, I think Bob would just have been a lot wetter!
Mig

 

[anniethenurse]

Congratulations, Bob! You made it to Santiago in that bad weather.

Isn´t never going to change...Where is the Spanish summer?
Enjoy your stay in Santiago!
annie

 

[Davroos]

I was lucky with the weather. I rode the VDLP from Seville starting on the 3rd of April and saw a small bit of rain in Salamanca, arrived in SdC in sunshine, it was lovely !!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Bob,

Enhorabuena on your arrival into Santiago! I am in Lisbon for the moment, and as I was sitting in my office yesterday, looking out the window at the relentless non-stop rain from morning to night, I felt bad for all the poor peregrinos outside in this weather. Everyone here keeps saying it is abnormally wet but I think the truth is that "abnormal" is the new normal. The weather reports say that things should change by the end of the week, but that´s no help for people like you!

Thanks for the reports, buen camino, Laurie

 

[BobM]

May 8 - In Santiago

I went to the Cathedral at 10:30 to look around and already there were a lot of people milling about. By 11am it was filling up quickly. Get there early if you want to sit near the front.

About 11:45 a nun made some announcements and sang, with congregation responses, before the Mass began. I am not a Catholic, and it was in Spanish, so I can't give a better explanation for the overture.

Then a list of Pilgrims (countries of origin) who had arrived in the last 24 hours was read out.

The Mass itself went for about 50 minutes.

Then the botafumeiro was swung into action. I had not seen that before, and it was quite special. When the great censer had almost stopped swinging at the end of the performance, a man grabbed it, momentum was transferred to him and they did a brief, involuntary pirouette to bring the censer to a halt.

Then the congregation mingled, with friends and fellow pilgrims greeting each other.

BTW, I was wrong about the Jesse Tree. It is still there, but fenced off so you can't touch it.

When I was in Santiago after the Camino Frances, I left without a sense of closure. Returning now, nearly five years later, I feel that some undefined committment has been met and I can move on.

As for you, Low Pressure System Parked Off Spain, I wish you would get a sense of closure and STOP RAINING on us.

Best wishes to everyone about to start on the CP. I hope my brief comments on the Tui – Santiago section have been useful. You can always ask a question if you want more details.

Regards

Bob M

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Welcome to Santiago Bob. You and many others have had to battle the elements to get here - and it is still raining! Well done. I'm glad you have the sense of satisfaction you deserve.

Best wishes

John

 

[amancio]

"Police" checkpoint near Padron

just a quick note for your peace of mind.... the people who survey you before you enter Padron will also recommendo you a GOOOOOD spot to eat some great octopus and Gallician broth, but they are NOT police, do not worry.

They are "Proteccion Civil", a group of Civilian volunteers who help and assist in any public event, with their particular orange coloured badges and uniforms, they are harmless, and usually very helpful people.

Pity about the bad weather, coming to Pontesampaio on a sunny summery morning is a unique experience.

And I am glad you got a chance to see the botafumeiro!

 

[robertt]

Bob, it was around this time last year that I did the Portugues in reverse to Valenca, then decided to turn back and see if it wasn't more enjoyable going with the arrows, rather than against. It was!

Thanks for bringing back the memories.

Rob

 

[ksam]

Bob it was fun peering over your shoulder and feeling the way with you! Sorry to hear, but it is exactly what we had 4 years ago, on precisely the same route! Glad you made it and that your feet stayed dry. Hope your enjoying Santiago now!

Buen Camino, Karin

 

[BobM]

Here are two photos of the botafumeiro in action.

The first photo shows the vigorous act of heaving on the rope. The men use their whole body weight and actually finish on their knees.

The second shows the group of men getting ready to heave on the ropes when the censer reaches a certain place in its swing. It has to be timed right, just like we had to do when we were kids on a swing.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Sometimes I thought I might need a boat, just like the one that carried St James to Padron.

Bob M