- Time of past OR future Camino
- A few and hopefully lots more.
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Zamora and Salamanca are stunningly beautiful cities. Of the two, Salamanca iis larger and has more going on. But Zamora holds a special place in the hearts of many pilgrims for its romanesque churches. It is a delightful small city.I'm thinking that Zamora or Ourense might be nice places to spend a couple of nights before we fly home.
Yup. After walking through the ruins of Capara, I left the Camino and went to the Hostal Restaurante Asturias, which is on the N630 highway (Autovia de la Plata). From there I caught the afternoon bus back to Caceres, where I needed to pick up some winter gear at the post office. Next morning I took the early bus back from Caceres to the same spot and continued my route.Has anyone managed to connect with e.g. a bus to Salamanca or back to Cáceres from Grimaldo or Carcaboso?
Thanks @Raggy that's really helpful. I was leaning towards Zamora too and it's an easy journey from there to Madrid Airport. Decision #1 made!Zamora and Salamanca are stunningly beautiful cities. Of the two, Salamanca iis larger and has more going on. But Zamora holds a special place in the hearts of many pilgrims for its romanesque churches. It is a delightful small city.
Ourense, on the other hand is not as pretty. It has hot springs which offer a fun distraction for an hour or two. The cathedral is impressive, with a mini-me Portico de Gloria like the one in Santiago. The streets around the cathedral have some nice restaurants. It's a fine place to spend a rest day on the camino Sanabres, but not a patch on Zamora or Salamanca IMHO.
Yup. After walking through the ruins of Capara, I left the Camino and went to the Hostal Restaurante Asturias, which is on the N630 highway (Autovia de la Plata). From there I caught the afternoon bus back to Caceres, where I needed to pick up some winter gear at the post office. Next morning I took the early bus back from Caceres to the same spot and continued my route.
If I recall correctly, there are two or three buses per day and they were all ALSA, but that might change. The bus route basically follows the N630 highway, with several stops on the way to Caceres.
I hope to be taking my first step out of Sevilla on about October 10, 2021! Buen CaminoEver the optimist, I decided to book a Ryanair flight to Sevilla for October. As with the others I've booked since this pandemic began, I'm very OK with the fact that it may or may not happen. Having a Camino on the calendar always lifts my spirits!.
It will be a short trip, with about 10 days of walking. As I've already spent time in Sevilla and walked the first few kms, I plan to start from Santiponce and probably finish in Cáceres. After than, I'll take transport to meet up with my other half who hopes to walk the Francés in September/October. That bit is pretty vague at the moment, but I'm thinking that Zamora or Ourense might be nice places to spend a couple of nights before we fly home. There's a good bus service between Cáceres and Zamora and regular trains from Zamora to Ourense.
I'm comfortable with walking 30+ kms most days and the odd 40km one, so I could probably get further than Cáceres. However, the transport options seem pretty limited in the smaller places, so I'm not sure how that would work out. Has anyone managed to connect with e.g. a bus to Salamanca or back to Cáceres from Grimaldo or Carcaboso?
Any other tips or words of wisdom from those who've walked this route? I'm assuming that walking in October doesn't present any particular difficulties, but maybe I'm wrong about that.
Nuala
I have walked the Frances in October, twice, the second time from Puenta la Reina, after walking the Aragones. I do not normally book, except for the first couple of days, and my final days in Santiago. I would certainly not do so this year, as some locations have announced that they will not give refunds to people who have booked early, then wish to cancel. And if this is your first Camino Frances you may find that your walking pace when on the trail and desire to stop to see the sights are not what you anticipated. If you have your air tickets, you might book for your first night(s) now and leave the rest for later. My one experience at pre-booking cost me a fair amount of money, as I had to cancel bookings when my dates changed. Orisson is now keeping all pre-payment on advance bookings which are cancelled.Thanks for sharing. At least you can stay inspired. Still looking forward towards our First camino Frances in October. Are any of you pre-booking your rooms? We have not yet.
Thank you!! I hope you are doing well.I have walked the Frances in October, twice, the second time from Puenta la Reina, after walking the Aragones. I do not normally book, except for the first couple of days, and my final days in Santiago. I would certainly not do so this year, as some locations have announced that they will not give refunds to people who have booked early, then wish to cancel. And if this is your first Camino Frances you may find that your walking pace when on the trail and desire to stop to see the sights are not what you anticipated. If you have your air tickets, you might book for your first night(s) now and leave the rest for later. My one experience at pre-booking cost me a fair amount of money, as I had to cancel bookings when my dates changed. Orisson is now keeping all pre-payment on advance bookings which are cancelled.
When did you encounter this policy? When I and two companions arrived by bus in September 2019, we stayed at the albergue and purchased new credencials to start the pilgrimage.I can't answer about bus connections, but if you do plan to stop at Zamora, and want to stay at the lovely municipal albergue, be aware that there seems to be a policy of only admitting pilgrims who've walked a previous stage to get there. It may depend on how busy they are and who's in charge but just something to consider..
Wishing you a Buen Camino too! I'll probably be a few days behind you.I hope to be taking my first step out of Sevilla on about October 10, 2021! Buen Camino
The waiting is hard, especially for those coming from afar. Fingers crossed that it will happen in October.Thanks for sharing. At least you can stay inspired. Still looking forward towards our First camino Frances in October. Are any of you pre-booking your rooms? We have not yet.
Hi @Albertagirl, that sounds like a really interesting plan. I'm not sure if our paths will cross, but it would be fun if they did! Wishing you well.I hope to be in Zamora this fall, wandering around looking at the Romanesque churches, but maybe later than both of you, as I plan to walk the Levante from Valencia, starting in September (deo volente and the pandemic is done).
There was only one hospi on duty and yeah she was under pressure and stressed out in fairness, nearing the end of her fortnight. But based on my experience, I just felt I should let Nuala and others know that this might be a possibility so they can be prepared. Perhaps others can confirm or deny this is policy...Sounds like she was stressed, but the pilgrims were eventually allowed in. I have stayed twice in Zamora, and both times encountered excellent hospitaler@s. They generally do a few weeks and then hand off to another set of volunteers, so I guess there's some variability.
The only place I stayed that absolutely prohibits people who arrive by bus was Finisterre. The albergue was exclusively for walkers and cyclists - and the check-in time for cyclists was an hour later than the check-in time for walkers (which caused a great wailing and gnashing of teeth on the day I checked in).
Just made my reservation yesterday and will now start either October 13 or 14 from Seville.Wishing you a Buen Camino too! I'll probably be a few days behind you.
Zamora is a personal favourite... so much bigger than it originally seems. Added to which you can easily bus to Toro (which is on the Camino de Levante) a delightful and beautifully situated small town and/or spend a day in Salamanca. (Part of the reason for going to Toro was to suss out the complicated NW trail onwards on the Levante as discussed by Peregrina2000). If you have accommodation issues at the Albergue of Zamora, maybe you can push the boat out and spend a night at the Parador (I was given an incredible pilgrim rate with a smashing breakfast).Ever the optimist, I decided to book a Ryanair flight to Sevilla for October. As with the others I've booked since this pandemic began, I'm very OK with the fact that it may or may not happen. Having a Camino on the calendar always lifts my spirits!.
It will be a short trip, with about 10 days of walking. As I've already spent time in Sevilla and walked the first few kms, I plan to start from Santiponce and probably finish in Cáceres. After than, I'll take transport to meet up with my other half who hopes to walk the Francés in September/October. That bit is pretty vague at the moment, but I'm thinking that Zamora or Ourense might be nice places to spend a couple of nights before we fly home. There's a good bus service between Cáceres and Zamora and regular trains from Zamora to Ourense.
I'm comfortable with walking 30+ kms most days and the odd 40km one, so I could probably get further than Cáceres. However, the transport options seem pretty limited in the smaller places, so I'm not sure how that would work out. Has anyone managed to connect with e.g. a bus to Salamanca or back to Cáceres from Grimaldo or Carcaboso?
Any other tips or words of wisdom from those who've walked this route? I'm assuming that walking in October doesn't present any particular difficulties, but maybe I'm wrong about that.
Nuala
Zamora's parador looks beautiful. Do you remember what the pilgrim rate was?
So I am planning to go to the front desk when I leave the pilgrim hostel after my night there, and to say, "How much for a pilgrim? What about multiple nights? I am a vegetarian. Can I stay without paying a lot for a big breakfast here?"
Yes, Laurie, I was also amazed. I am now an ‘Amigo’ which gives one a free ‘drink’. By the way, if you are a ‘jubilado’, a senior, you get an added discretionary discount.I’m not sure how I missed this thread, @NualaOC! Having the hope, but not the expectation, is definitely the way to go, IMO.
In response to your bus question, I was delighted to find that the ALSA website now let’s you plug in a departure city and then can choose from the available destinations. In the past it had been horrendously difficult trying to figure out where the routes might possibly go. The website shows there are buses from Grimaldo (but not Carcaboso) to a variety of cities.
For Carcaboso, the Alsa website shows nothing, yet there is forum chatter on Gronze saying that there is supposed to be a bus from Carcaboso to Plasencia, yet no one can find it on the web. So that remains a mystery.
Find all our destinations in Spain - Alsa
Discover another way of travelling with the leading passenger bus company. All national destinations available.www.alsa.com
I got a special two-night stay at the last minute. I THINK I remember that the total with breakfast was under 100€. IMO, Zamora’s parador, with its “slightly faded” traditional, heavy Castilian furniture and the odd armored knight standing on the stairway, is far more appealing than some of the post-modern renovations we are seeing in other paradors these days. But then I may be a philistine when it comes to historical buildings.
If you are up to it, the open air museum at Santiponce is great and free to Pilgrims. Italica is the original Roman city site of Seville. It may only open at 10 am so check. It is closed on Mondays. Situated across the road from the last bus stop.Ever the optimist, I decided to book a Ryanair flight to Sevilla for October. As with the others I've booked since this pandemic began, I'm very OK with the fact that it may or may not happen. Having a Camino on the calendar always lifts my spirits!.
It will be a short trip, with about 10 days of walking. As I've already spent time in Sevilla and walked the first few kms, I plan to start from Santiponce and probably finish in Cáceres. After than, I'll take transport to meet up with my other half who hopes to walk the Francés in September/October. That bit is pretty vague at the moment, but I'm thinking that Zamora or Ourense might be nice places to spend a couple of nights before we fly home. There's a good bus service between Cáceres and Zamora and regular trains from Zamora to Ourense.
I'm comfortable with walking 30+ kms most days and the odd 40km one, so I could probably get further than Cáceres. However, the transport options seem pretty limited in the smaller places, so I'm not sure how that would work out. Has anyone managed to connect with e.g. a bus to Salamanca or back to Cáceres from Grimaldo or Carcaboso?
Any other tips or words of wisdom from those who've walked this route? I'm assuming that walking in October doesn't present any particular difficulties, but maybe I'm wrong about that.
Nuala
I strongly advice to stop in Merida and see some of the Roman remains there.
A year or so ago, my reaction would have been — what, are you nuts?! Today my reaction is, oh what I would give to be able to walk any time of year. I know you are experienced and will pay attention to water, but there have been some pilgrim deaths on the Vdlp in days of extreme heat. I usually carry no more than a liter or two of water, but would change my habits in exchange for the privilege of walking again!I am due to hike the Plata for the third time, starting out on 26 August
Get one of those reflecting umbrellas for the sun! Be safe and enjoy.Hi @Albertagirl, that sounds like a really interesting plan. I'm not sure if our paths will cross, but it would be fun if they did! Wishing you well.
I walked the Norte that year. In Santiago I met a good friend who walked the VDLP from Sevilla in mid September. (We met 2 years earlier when we walked from Lisbon and saw each other a lot on that Camino). He said that section was intensely hot and he told me about a pilgrim who had died who was a few days ahead of him. He said he was in a village and could not find the albergue and no one really helped him. He attempted to walk 12 or so k’s to the next town and collapsed and died. Really sad.When I walked the VdlP, starting on Oct. 3, 2017, the temperatures were in the mid 30's from Sevilla all the way to Salamanca. The worst day was from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral, 32 km and I would have stopped at the Embalse if the albergue had not been unpredictably closed, as seemed to happen that year. Since there had been one death of a pilgrim on that section a little earlier in the season, I was somewhat apprehensive.
HI Laurie, re the bus from Carcaboso to Plasencia, this is what I found on google - two morning buses (using April dates):In response to your bus question, I was delighted to find that the ALSA website now let’s you plug in a departure city and then can choose from the available destinations. In the past it had been horrendously difficult trying to figure out where the routes might possibly go. The website shows there are buses from Grimaldo (but not Carcaboso) to a variety of cities.
For Carcaboso, the Alsa website shows nothing, yet there is forum chatter on Gronze saying that there is supposed to be a bus from Carcaboso to Plasencia, yet no one can find it on the web. So that remains a mystery.
Hmm, going by previous posts, the albergue at the embalse seems to be quite upredictable in it's opening schedule at the best of times, something about changes of management? A pity as despite it's ugly concrete exterior, it's an important oasis in the middle of otherwise nothing with no other services nearby and it's quite a comfortable place..When I walked the VdlP, starting on Oct. 3, 2017, the temperatures were in the mid 30's from Sevilla all the way to Salamanca. The worst day was from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral, 32 km and I would have stopped at the Embalse if the albergue had not been unpredictably closed, as seemed to happen that year. Since there had been one death of a pilgrim on that section a little earlier in the season, I was somewhat apprehensive.
Thank you Gerald, I also have your book.I recently completed a FAQ about walking the Via. I hope you find it useful
Vía de la Plata - the Free Guide to the Vía de la Plata
Vía de la Plata - the Free Guide to the Vía de la Platawww.viadelaplataguide.net
Hi Filly, may see you on the way, I have loose plans to walk Aug/Sept. I have not set the date to start, waiting for my covid vax and my country to open. Buen CaminoIf you are up to it, the open air museum at Santiponce is great and free to Pilgrims. Italica is the original Roman city site of Seville. It may only open at 10 am so check. It is closed on Mondays. Situated across the road from the last bus stop.
I am due to hike the Plata for the third time, starting out on 26 August ( rather hot I realise but date selected by French co-hiker ).
Hmm, going by previous posts, the albergue at the embalse seems to be quite upredictable in it's opening schedule at the best of times, something about changes of management? A pity as despite it's ugly concrete exterior, it's an important oasis in the middle of otherwise nothing with no other services nearby and it's quite a comfortable place..
Thanks Gerald, a really useful and up to date resource! I had your book when I walked too.I recently completed a FAQ about walking the Via. I hope you find it useful
Vía de la Plata - the Free Guide to the Vía de la Plata
Vía de la Plata - the Free Guide to the Vía de la Platawww.viadelaplataguide.net
Good to know. I think he was the young man who looked after us there. I do remember there were some on going issues with the building itself (the wind and rain were finding their way in!) but he looked after us well: we ate and slept great and had breakfast left out for us. If I was to pass that way again, I would definitely phone ahead to check given it's relative isolation.I like the appearance of the low, flat, concrete building, but to each his own. As far as I know, the unpredictability was not a result of changes of management. The person managing the albergue (Andres Rodriguez) cited various problems with the building and water - for example, see his comment on the following site:
EMBALSE DE ALCANTARA - Albergue de peregrinos
Camino de Santiago por la Vía de la Plata y Sanabrés. Todo lo que necesitas saber para tu Camino: Etapas / Mapas / Albergues / Consejosviadelaplataelcamino.blogspot.com
Hmm, going by previous posts, the albergue at the embalse seems to be quite upredictable in it's opening schedule at the best of times, something about changes of management?
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