Walking alone in November - Good idea/Not so good idea?

[candacecarnahan]

I am planning to begin my Camino on October 24th - I am, however, nervous that the majority of accommodation will be closed for the season by this time after hearing back from a couple of places where I attempted to book accommodation. Is the month of November not a great time to do the Camino? While I'm happy to walk alone, my hope is to meet other pilgrims in the evenings and at resting points to enjoy chatting and dinners and wine (I'm 34 and interested in the evening fun aspect of the journey as well - please advise as to thoughts on this timeline for travel?

 

[skilsaw]

My experience is walking in April so all I can give you is my best guess.

There are a multitude of new (since I first walked in 2004) private albergues on the Camino. If you don't find one by the time you have walked to the center of town, pop in to a cafe and ask.

I've found that sometimes a cafe or bar will have a private room upstairs and usually at a fair price.

I would say that the distance between villages is seldom more than 5 kilometers so if you find nothing in one town, it is only an hour to the next. And you will reach a stage where another 5 kilometers is no big deal.

Buen Camino,
David, Victoria, Canada.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hola - three years ago I started out from St Jean Pied de Port on 11 November. I counted 28 pilgrims that I could see on the route Napoleon. There were around 60 in the albergue in Roncesvalles that night. You won't be alone. Some albergues do close so get a guide which has seasonal information and ask around as much as you can locally. I'm sure you will be fine. Enjoy.

John

 

[candacecarnahan]

A fellow Canadian! Thank you for your response! I'm from NB, actually
It's reassuring to know that the villages are so close together - I was envisioning walking 25 K only to find a closed sign on one hostel and have to trudge on alone for another 25 K to find a place to sleep (well.. I'm being a bit dramatic... but you get the picture)...

I'm really hoping that at this time of year there will be other people along the way to have chats and wine with at night - as this seems to be quite as much of the experience as the actual walking...

Thanks so much for taking the time to offer your thoughts...

East Coast Candace

My experience is walking in April so all I can give you is my best guess.

There are a multitude of new (since I first walked in 2004) private albergues on the Camino. If you don't find one by the time you have walked to the center of town, pop in to a cafe and ask.

I've found that sometimes a cafe or bar will have a private room upstairs and usually at a fair price.

I would say that the distance between villages is seldom more than 5 kilometers so if you find nothing in one town, it is only an hour to the next. And you will reach a stage where another 5 kilometers is no big deal.

Buen Camino,
David, Victoria, Canada.

 

[candacecarnahan]

Thanks for responding John! You started out about 3 weeks later than I plan to so the numbers you've provided me with are encouraging. I really hope to enjoy the evening on my Camino, with wine and chatting and dinners and all the fun stuff that goes along with it - did you find that durning that time, the places that were open were vibrant, as well as the towns and villages themselves? Also, did you bring actual "winter" clothing, or layers of clothing - I hear the weather can be unpredictable?

Again, thank you so much for the pointers....

Hola - three years ago I started out from St Jean Pied de Port on 11 November. I counted 28 pilgrims that I could see on the route Napoleon. There were around 60 in the albergue in Roncesvalles that night. You won't be alone. Some albergues do close so get a guide which has seasonal information and ask around as much as you can locally. I'm sure you will be fine. Enjoy.

John

 

[JohnnieWalker]

The best piece of advice I got (actually from Peter Robins on this forum) was that in the late autumn/winter months in the evenings and early mornings Spain can be as cold as my native Scotland. That was true although I had many days wearing sun screen and my trousers rolled up. Layering is the only answer for the light weight walker - a good base, mid and top layer + nylon or wool long johns + an effective rain shell and you're fit for all weathers imho. Check the long range forecasts before you go or get one of us to do it here in Spain.

Best wishes for your preparation

John

 

[candacecarnahan]

Layers! Got it Thanks, John. I've been looking into weather trends - would it be fair to say that it gets warmer closer to the end of the journey?

The best piece of advice I got (actually from Peter Robins on this forum) was that in the late autumn/winter months in the evenings and early mornings Spain can be as cold as my native Scotland. That was true although I had many days wearing sun screen and my trousers rolled up. Layering is the only answer for the light weight walker - a good base, mid and top layer + nylon or wool long johns + an effective rain shell and you're fit for all weathers imho. Check the long range forecasts before you go or get one of us to do it here in Spain.

Best wishes for your preparation

John

 

[peregrino_tom]

Candace,
booking accommodation before you go seems like sensible planning at the time, but really you are better off going with the flow - hundreds of thousands have walked the way in all seasons so the camino is ready to accommodate you. However it's worth being on your mettle and gathering as much information as you can about what lies ahead each day. As others have said elsewhere, the hospitalero/a will be an essential source of information as most stay connected in an informal network and have a pretty good idea as to what is going on along the camino. Also you sound like a sociable person so you'll find that talking and walking with your new acquaintances will provide you with a sense of security that if there are uncertainties ahead, you are all in the same boat and can overcome them together.
When I set out on the Frances in November 2008 the first help was that the pilgrim office in SPdP provided me with their list of which albergues were open and which were closed. This, matched with the info in my recent guide book and the knowledge that the state albergues in Galicia stay open all year, meant that I already felt much better about the vast unknown ahead. However, it was supplementing this knowledge with conversations along the way that meant that everything worked out well.
At Terradillos the hospitalero told us that the albergue at Calzadilla was closed and we should take the alternative route to El Burgo Ranero where the albergue was open and that was great. There, we found out that the Mansilla albergue ahead of us was also closed. Some of my Spanish companions of the road phoned the albergue San Pelayo in Vilarente which was also closed but asked if they could open as 20 pilgrims were heading their way. In the end we were more like 15, but they opened up and were brilliant, hauling in great logs for the stove, for our benefit. They also found a local farrier to re-shoe the mule and donkey that were with us at the time. Conversely when I got to Astorga I met a guy who was very fit and fluent in Spanish but he'd not been conversing with anyone. He was really down as he'd recently arrived in one town alone in the evening to find everything closed and not knowing what to do. Later that night he'd managed to book a taxi to take him on but he was still really fazed by the whole episode - but he cheered up later after walking a few days with us!
buen camino, tom

 

[candacecarnahan]

Tom! What fantastic timing to receive your message - I had awoken to another email from an albergue indicating that Nov was rainy all of the time and that there would be very few pilgrims walking - and then I read your message and felt once again, encouraged. It seems that for every communication that leans toward Nov not being a good idea, there are 10 more that reassure me that things will fall into place and that if I feel the time is right for me, there is no reason not to go in that month.

I agree with you, I want to plan and gather info to a certain extent, however I may decide to stay longer in one place, or walk longer (or shorter) on a particular day, so don't want to be bound by reservations everywhere along the way. I get the sense that things will have slowed down and that getting a bed won't be near as difficult as it is in the high season.,

I see you're from london! I get my artificial limbs made in Dorset and travel to London often - I'm stopping there on my way to visit my friend - what would you say is the best route to get to St. Jean du Port from London - I was thinking of flying Ryan Air and then taking the train??

Thanks again! It's so wonderful to feel the support on this forum for journey before even setting foot on it!

Candace,
booking accommodation before you go seems like sensible planning at the time, but really you are better off going with the flow - hundreds of thousands have walked the way in all seasons so the camino is ready to accommodate you. However it's worth being on your mettle and gathering as much information as you can about what lies ahead each day. As others have said elsewhere, the hospitalero/a will be an essential source of information as most stay connected in an informal network and have a pretty good idea as to what is going on along the camino. Also you sound like a sociable person so you'll find that talking and walking with your new acquaintances will provide you with a sense of security that if there are uncertainties ahead, you are all in the same boat and can overcome them together.
When I set out on the Frances in November 2008 the first help was that the pilgrim office in SPdP provided me with their list of which albergues were open and which were closed. This, matched with the info in my recent guide book and the knowledge that the state albergues in Galicia stay open all year, meant that I already felt much better about the vast unknown ahead. However, it was supplementing this knowledge with conversations along the way that meant that everything worked out well.
At Terradillos the hospitalero told us that the albergue at Calzadilla was closed and we should take the alternative route to El Burgo Ranero where the albergue was open and that was great. There, we found out that the Mansilla albergue ahead of us was also closed. Some of my Spanish companions of the road phoned the albergue San Pelayo in Vilarente which was also closed but asked if they could open as 20 pilgrims were heading their way. In the end we were more like 15, but they opened up and were brilliant, hauling in great logs for the stove, for our benefit. They also found a local farrier to re-shoe the mule and donkey that were with us at the time. Conversely when I got to Astorga I met a guy who was very fit and fluent in Spanish but he'd not been conversing with anyone. He was really down as he'd recently arrived in one town alone in the evening to find everything closed and not knowing what to do. Later that night he'd managed to book a taxi to take him on but he was still really fazed by the whole episode - but he cheered up later after walking a few days with us!
buen camino, tom

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hey Candace
yep, Ryanair from Stansted is the tried and tested way of reaching SJPdP from London. Flight to Biarritz, connecting bus to Bayonne then little train to Saint Jean. Quite a few posts here about that, especially about timing so that you don't arrive in Bayonne too late for the last connecting train. If you have the luxury of time and money (but who does?) then Eurostar from London and train south from Paris is probably the nicest way to arrive there.
As for the weather, as Johnny says, it'll most likely be mixed with some t-shirt days at the beginning, some biting cold winds on the meseta and in the mountains and lots of glorious Galician rain once you get past O'Cebreiro...
You're going to be absolutely fine and in my view you are making the camino at the perfect time
cheers, tom

 

[peregrino_tom]

oh, and one more thing!
sometimes, out of season and on the quieter caminos, pilgrims form into little clusters as they go along, so that one night there may be 15 people staying and the next two nights none or only one or two. If you find there's no-one in sync with you, check the pilgrim guestbook to see if there's a group just ahead of you that you might be able to catch up with. Or else take a day off somewhere where there are sights to see and wait for a group to catch you up. All of this becomes much easier if you allow yourself sufficient time. The worst thing is seeing people stressed out because they have got a day or two behind their schedule and somehow need to catch up with it. In an ideal world, allow enough time to walk the extra 3 days to Finisterre (and wave heartily at NB) and then if things delay you along the way you have plenty of time to just go as far as Santiago.

 

[candacecarnahan]

I have all the time in the world (well until xmas) - so I will take your advice - take my time - sight see - go on to the end - and maybe even take the Eurostar (it seems to be about 100 quid more by my calculations)....

My only sense of urgency was that it would get colder with each day the further I got, but it seems that it will warm up a bit towards the end?? I'm trying to look at weather trends but the links I find on here keep on directing me to a "sky drive" and i'm unable to find any charts - is there a link or post you would recommend? Thanks again, for the encouragement - we haven't met but just reading that someone who knows feels like the time is right is strangely (or maybe not so strangely ) comforting

Hey Candace
yep, Ryanair from Stansted is the tried and tested way of reaching SJPdP from London. Flight to Biarritz, connecting bus to Bayonne then little train to Saint Jean. Quite a few posts here about that, especially about timing so that you don't arrive in Bayonne too late for the last connecting train. If you have the luxury of time and money (but who does?) then Eurostar from London and train south from Paris is probably the nicest way to arrive there.
As for the weather, as Johnny says, it'll most likely be mixed with some t-shirt days at the beginning, some biting cold winds on the meseta and in the mountains and lots of glorious Galician rain once you get past O'Cebreiro...
You're going to be absolutely fine and in my view you are making the camino at the perfect time
cheers, tom

 

[peregrino_tom]

hmmm. Whether you feel cold or not is such a subjective thing. But I think you are probably right that the climate can be a little milder once you get across the mountains and into the Atlantic air currents of Galicia, but the flip side is the added rain. I think most people prefer to be cold and dry to being wet - I certainly do!
When I finished in mid-November 2010 is was at the end of a 5-day Atlantic storm and the temperature was an almost constant 15C night and day. In 2008 in early December we came down from the snow at O'Cebreiro to mild wet weather below which a week later turned cold and sleety and a couple of degrees above zero. You'll see the forecast in the local papers and on the TV screens in the bars, but sometimes it's better not to know - you've still got to walk through it!
Just take the layers like Johnny says for what you think you'll need to start with. You can always add to them along the way as there are plenty of outlets in all the towns and cities you'll pass through. That's a better way round than starting with some huge expedition-grade jacket that you then have to either carry around for weeks before it gets used or you have to decide whether to discard it or post it somewhere. Live off the land!
Someone gave me a Spanish-bought poncho along the way in 2008 and I've used it ever since.

 

[robertt]

Candace, that's some great advice you've got already.

As a winter/early spring starter, I can say that friendships made in the quiet times of year can be closer. However, if you want to meet people daily in winter you need to walk to a pilgrim rhythm. As soon as I realised I could leave at mid-day from private accommodation in Spain, my daily starts got later and later. I did tend to miss the odd fellow pilgrim, who would probably have been out the door a lot quicker than me. I'm a bit naughty that way.

Also, in the quiet, cold times, there's a chance to meet more locals, who are are less busy. Mind you, I think it's always best to treat each place as a temporary home, rather than a thoroughfare. Locals like to think you're interested in their little part of the world, not just rushing along an international pilgrim "line".

Would I walk in November? Definitely. Might I get a bit wet? Probably.

Remember, it's often when we start to feel frustrated, solitary etc that Saint James sends some really good action. He just likes to soften us up first. He's good - but he's not always nice.

Take a punt, is what I say

Rob

 

[candacecarnahan]

Great to hear from you, Rob!

November is sounding not only alright, but fantastic to me now! I'm in zero rush - I really just need to make it back for xmas with my family, so will have all the time in the world to walk as I please.

Also, I love your insight on the time of year and getting to know the locals. I've always been the type of travelling to "live" where I lay - I love to settle in (even if for a brief period) and feel like part of the community where I'm spending my time, as opposed to breezing through - I'm sure I will meet many wonderful people, living in the villages, and often times even stay for a day or two extra

So, you left a little later in the afternoon as time went on, you say? In which way did you find that worked for you? I haven't looked much into when people begin walking, but I'm assuming it's quite early most often?

I'm looking forward to all of the action St. James has to send my way!! Although this is a decision that was just made recently (I was meant to have a travel partner but he dropped out and I struggled a bit with decided to go on my own - but now my path is clear - I feel like I'm as ready as I'll ever be! All of this chat on here is very exciting as well and really adds a new element to statement/question "I'm really doing this"!?


Feel free to continue sharing any thoughts you might have!!

Candace, that's some great advice you've got already.

As a winter/early spring starter, I can say that friendships made in the quiet times of year can be closer. However, if you want to meet people daily in winter you need to walk to a pilgrim rhythm. As soon as I realised I could leave at mid-day from private accommodation in Spain, my daily starts got later and later. I did tend to miss the odd fellow pilgrim, who would probably have been out the door a lot quicker than me. I'm a bit naughty that way.

Also, in the quiet, cold times, there's a chance to meet more locals, who are are less busy. Mind you, I think it's always best to treat each place as a temporary home, rather than a thoroughfare. Locals like to think you're interested in their little part of the world, not just rushing along an international pilgrim "line".

Would I walk in November? Definitely. Might I get a bit wet? Probably.

Remember, it's often when we start to feel frustrated, solitary etc that Saint James sends some really good action. He just likes to soften us up first. He's good - but he's not always nice.

Take a punt, is what I say

Rob

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

I haven't looked much into when people begin walking, but I'm assuming it's quite early most often?

Hi Candace!
If you're staying in albergues, they usually want you out by 08:00. That's why some pilgrims start walking very early - even in the dark. It's not unusual to hear people getting up any time after 05:00.
Although I've occasionally done it, I find walking in the dark a bit dodgy - too easy to miss the yellow arrows, and you miss the delightful views and country paths.
Some albergues, on some routes, at some times of the year start to get full by 15:00. I would guess in November that probably won't apply, but you'll need to arrive, say by 17:00 to 18:00 get there in daylight in November.
You're going to have a wonderful time: keep us posted about your adventure!

Buen camino!
Stephen
http://www.calig.co.uk/camino_de_santiago.htm

 

[mspath]

I haven't looked much into when people begin walking, but I'm assuming it's quite early most often?

Hi Candace!
If you're staying in albergues, they usually want you out by 08:00. That's why some pilgrims start walking very early - even in the dark. It's not unusual to hear people getting up any time after 05:00.
Although I've occasionally done it, I find walking in the dark a bit dodgy - too easy to miss the yellow arrows, and you miss the delightful views and country paths.
Some albergues, on some routes, at some times of the year start to get full by 15:00. I would guess in November that probably won't apply, but you'll need to arrive, say by 17:00 to 18:00 get there in daylight in November.
You're going to have a wonderful time: keep us posted about your adventure!

Buen camino!
Stephen
http://www.calig.co.uk/camino_de_santiago.htm

Walking in the dark is VERY DANGEROUS!! See this Forum topic >> http://www.caminodesantiago.me/.../topic1527..Be sure to wear reflective clothing and/or a blinking light. By the third week in November it will still be dark at 08.00 am, the official time to leave albergues. If you are alone in the space you can usually wait until dawn. Nevertheless often we pilgrims have had to exit in the cold dark and wait for the dawn in a nearby cafe filled with sanitation men and police about to go on duty. All were always very friendly and wished 'Buen Camino!" as dawn arrived and we all left.

Take care and Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[jdpiguet]

Hello Margaret,

The link you mentioned "http://www.caminodesantiago.me/.../topic1527.." is a dead end.
Do you have the full reference?

I'm leaving in 21 days now and try to get a few more info in my head, even if it's already more than full

An every-day -more-excited-future-pilgrim,
Jacques-D.

PS: Candace, there were 3500 pilgrims arriving at Santiago in November 2011 and even 1400 in December, so you will most probably not be frequently alone...

 

[mspath]

Hello Margaret,

The link you mentioned "http://www.caminodesantiago.me/.../topic1527.." is a dead end.
Do you have the full reference?

I'm leaving in 21 days now and try to get a few more info in my head, even if it's already more than full

An every-day -more-excited-future-pilgrim,
Jacques-D.

PS: Candace, there were 3500 pilgrims arriving at Santiago in November 2011 and even 1400 in December, so you will most probably not be frequently alone...

Sorry. Try this for a correct account >> http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/camino-mozarabe-and-via-de-la-plata/topic15278.html

 

[PEI_Heather]

Hi Candace, from across the stream on PEI!

I am leaving for London in 13 days...13 days!! Ho boy... I will be starting my (first) Camino only about two weeks before you. I'm flying from London to Barritz by Ryan Air, on recommendations from several folks here. The whole flight is costing me about 65CAD; imagine where you'd be able to fly to in Canada for that much. If you are in Moncton, maybe to Dieppe?! lol (The flight was 16 Pounds but I decided to stow my bag instead of take it on board--another 15 Pounds; I don't want to get to the airport to find out I have to pay a lot more money that I wasn't expecting to pay.) I chose to fly for the economy of time and money. Ferry then train was looking very costly.

I don't know if we'll run into each other--I'm starting my walk in 9 October (so maybe we will if I'm a really slow walker or you are a speedy one!) but we certainly will have to get together after we both return home. I can, if I find a place with the internet once I know you have arrived/started, send you some notes along the way, to let you know of places I've stayed at and other information. Notes from home, so to speak!

If you are still looking for gear, I found some great fast dry/technical clothing on sale at Winners and Mark's Work Warehouse. There might still be some there, though it's been a few weeks since I looked. I'm preparing my clothing like I would for a Maritimes autumn: a little bit of this and a little bit of that. And as suggested to you before, I'm taking layers. A technical longjohn shirt that can double as a shirt shirt; wicking long sleeve t-shirt, fleece, really light wind jacket (featherweight and bright orange) and a lightweight but waterproof rain jacket. The bottom part is similar. I'm also taking a small pair of gloves for the potential cold parts. And now, from reading the postings here, I'm also taking some reflective gear: stripes on my pack and some flashing lights like I use on my bike. Oh and good wicking socks. Running compression socks for inner liner socks and wool socks (Smartwool) for the outer. The compression socks have been awesome for keeping my calves happy on my training hikes.

Have fun! Maybe we might just meet up! I have to stop into Can Tire tomorrow to do the once over have-I-forgotten-anything shop! I'm amazed at the number of people who have done the Camino or who are going to do the Camino from our neck of the woods. I've met a few and the conversations with all have been invaluable. Have you been able to find anyone near you to have coffee with?

Hey Jacques.D! There is a good chance we might find each other along the walk! You are not going to be that far behind me; only days!

Cheers from Heather in PEI

 

[michaelkaise]

I will walk the Camino Invierno from 01.Nov.14 to SDC. I think I have nice weather.
Ultreia from Germany Michael

 

[Rafael Vallejo]

I am planning to begin my Camino on October 24th - I am, however, nervous that the majority of accommodation will be closed for the season by this time after hearing back from a couple of places where I attempted to book accommodation. Is the month of November not a great time to do the Camino? While I'm happy to walk alone, my hope is to meet other pilgrims in the evenings and at resting points to enjoy chatting and dinners and wine (I'm 34 and interested in the evening fun aspect of the journey as well - please advise as to thoughts on this timeline for travel?

Will be arriving in Sarria October 30 on the way to Santiago. Where will you be by then?

 

[Rafael Vallejo]

I am planning to begin my Camino on October 24th - I am, however, nervous that the majority of accommodation will be closed for the season by this time after hearing back from a couple of places where I attempted to book accommodation. Is the month of November not a great time to do the Camino? While I'm happy to walk alone, my hope is to meet other pilgrims in the evenings and at resting points to enjoy chatting and dinners and wine (I'm 34 and interested in the evening fun aspect of the journey as well - please advise as to thoughts on this timeline for travel?

Coming from Toronto. Will be in Sarria October 30.

 

[Rafael Vallejo]

I will walk the Camino Invierno from 01.Nov.14 to SDC. I think I have nice weather.
Ultreia from Germany Michael

Where are you starting from?

 

[Rafael Vallejo]

Hi Candace, from across the stream on PEI!

I am leaving for London in 13 days...13 days!! Ho boy... I will be starting my (first) Camino only about two weeks before you. I'm flying from London to Barritz by Ryan Air, on recommendations from several folks here. The whole flight is costing me about 65CAD; imagine where you'd be able to fly to in Canada for that much. If you are in Moncton, maybe to Dieppe?! lol (The flight was 16 Pounds but I decided to stow my bag instead of take it on board--another 15 Pounds; I don't want to get to the airport to find out I have to pay a lot more money that I wasn't expecting to pay.) I chose to fly for the economy of time and money. Ferry then train was looking very costly.

I don't know if we'll run into each other--I'm starting my walk in 9 October (so maybe we will if I'm a really slow walker or you are a speedy one!) but we certainly will have to get together after we both return home. I can, if I find a place with the internet once I know you have arrived/started, send you some notes along the way, to let you know of places I've stayed at and other information. Notes from home, so to speak!

If you are still looking for gear, I found some great fast dry/technical clothing on sale at Winners and Mark's Work Warehouse. There might still be some there, though it's been a few weeks since I looked. I'm preparing my clothing like I would for a Maritimes autumn: a little bit of this and a little bit of that. And as suggested to you before, I'm taking layers. A technical longjohn shirt that can double as a shirt shirt; wicking long sleeve t-shirt, fleece, really light wind jacket (featherweight and bright orange) and a lightweight but waterproof rain jacket. The bottom part is similar. I'm also taking a small pair of gloves for the potential cold parts. And now, from reading the postings here, I'm also taking some reflective gear: stripes on my pack and some flashing lights like I use on my bike. Oh and good wicking socks. Running compression socks for inner liner socks and wool socks (Smartwool) for the outer. The compression socks have been awesome for keeping my calves happy on my training hikes.

Have fun! Maybe we might just meet up! I have to stop into Can Tire tomorrow to do the once over have-I-forgotten-anything shop! I'm amazed at the number of people who have done the Camino or who are going to do the Camino from our neck of the woods. I've met a few and the conversations with all have been invaluable. Have you been able to find anyone near you to have coffee with?

Hey Jacques.D! There is a good chance we might find each other along the walk! You are not going to be that far behind me; only days!

Cheers from Heather in PEI

Leaving Toronto Oct 27. Thanks for tip on Mark Wearhouse and Winners.