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When I crossed that creek in 2012 the "bridge" was a log. Even more scary with a bike!Good to see there are a few pilgrims even at this early date. Yes, walking that plank was a bit scary.
Luz del Camino is a wonderful albergue to start a camino in. I don't remember the hospitalero's name but he is quite a character indeed.Day 2, 19.5 km. After a nice breakfast the six of us left Guillena. The morning started very cold, but it warmed up quickly, until we finally walked in T-shirt and shorts. Again a wonderful trip, the terrain was a bit muddy and challenging at times but no major obstacles. We all seem to have about the same pace and pleasantly babbling conversations alternate with pleasant silences. Our hostel here is lovely, we even got towels! Funny how happy you can be with a little luxury . No kitchen here that we can use, but we spotted a restaurant where they serve a pilgrim menu. And just to the Spar to stock up for tomorrow, then we have 28 km ahead
I stayed there too. Very nice evening.Love the pics! Brings back so many good memories. As much as I enjoyed cycling the VDLP, I really missed out on the camraderie that you six have already experienced in just a short two days.
You’re almost to Almaden de la Plata. A lovely Camino town. Let me recomend the Albergue La Casa del Reloj (still just €10 I think and after a long day on the bike for me from Sevilla, I was more than happy to be greeted at the door with a nice, cold beer). Buen Camino!
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In 2016, the water level was low enough that I didn't need to use any plank or bridge. In fact, I'm not sure if it was even there. I would be very nervous about crossing on that one, as my balance is not what it used to be, and my backpack makes me top heavy, etc. Maybe I'd just remove shoes, socks, even trousers, and walk through the water holding onto the bridge.Yes, walking that plank was a bit scary.
Oh that "plank" in April 2022! I scooched across on my butt b/c my friend tried to wade across the creek & sank up to her knees in mud!Sevilla-Guillena today, over 23 km. Via de la Plata is known for its desolation, and I was warned that, especially in winter, I would be happy to meet a few other pilgrims...However, I have already contacted Shazia from India and Marie from Singapore via fb . Shazia had the same starting day and so we started together. Beautiful day, a challenging crossing on what should not be called a bridge, and a rain shower and mud track in the last hour. It was clay and 1 step immediately yielded a kilo of clay that stuck to your shoes. Especially in the deep profiles of my high-quality mileage eaters, as Shazia hops along next to me in her flip flops (yes, really) like it's nothing. Nice girl, nice click, right away we seem to have a lot of common ground, but we can also walk side by side in silence, in connection with the path. Once in Guillena, we meet Marie, who cut this first stage in half and therefore started yesterday. And Claus, a pilgrim from Denmark who has been in bed with the flu for a few days but is now on the mend. So we decide to make a communal dinner, Shazia and I go shopping and cooking, we both like that. After shopping we meet two more pilgrims, Lars from Switzerland and Alexandra from Poland. We have enough so they join us too. Top evening, top group, day 1. Tomorrow we have breakfast and we leave together
“That plank” @khiker9 indeed - it was a shocker! Someone needs to give that “bridge” a suitable name!Oh that "plank" in April 2022! I scooched across on my butt b/c my friend tried to wade across the creek & sank up to her knees in mud!
I just shuffled my feet across as I couldn't bring myself to lift a foot up in case I overbalanced.In 2016, the water level was low enough that I didn't need to use any plank or bridge. In fact, I'm not sure if it was even there. I would be very nervous about crossing on that one, as my balance is not what it used to be, and my backpack makes me top heavy, etc. Maybe I'd just remove shoes, socks, even trousers, and walk through the water holding onto the bridge.
It's nice that you have a group walking on similar stages! Please keep the updates coming, as the VDLP is my favourite in many ways.
Like @Peregrinopaul, I had to cross that water on a log that was hidden in some brush off to one side of the camino. I shimmeyed across and would never have made it if I had to stand up. There was so much talk for so long about building a bridge there, and I guess this was considered to be the most efficient solution. I would personally prefer shimmeying across a log than across this steel contraption!When I crossed that creek in 2012 the "bridge" was a log. Even more scary with a bike!
I'm very much enjoying your posts and beautiful photos.Day 4 Via de la Plata, 36.65km. Almaden to Monasterio
Yes, thats the village. We didnt see a living soul and everything was closed.I'm very much enjoying your posts and beautiful photos.
That was a long day! I'm assuming that the village you mentioned was El Real de la Jara, one of my favourite locations. I've read that the town is suffering greatly after the closure of the big nickel/copper mine a couple of km to the NW.
Buen camino!
Hi Dermo, yes, I saw your posts on the Facebook group. Good that you have found this forumHi Karin, I’ve only just discovered your posts now. I’m a couple of days ahead of you and have reached Merida. It’s really interesting to read about your experiences and compare them to mine…
You seem to have had great luck with meeting other pilgrims. I met only three and they’re pulling out now. I’m continuing all the way to Santiago. I figure I have covered 250 km and then quarter way there now.
It would be great if our paths cross??
My blogs appeared initially on the Vía de la Plata pilgtims group but I can’t post links onto that. I’ll see if it’s possible to post mine onto this forum. It would be really good to connect with other pilgrims who are walking at this time.
There is a Spanish pilgrim we meet almost every day, I know he is walking until Caceres. However, he doesn't speak English and we dont speak Spanish. So we interact though smiles and signlanguage but conversation is very limited. And I met another pilgrim in Sevilla but he stayed there an extra day, so he is at least one day behind us. Other than that, no other pilgrims...Have you seen many other pilgrims other than the ones you met at the beginning?
Looking forward to reading about your journey. I attempted the Via de la Plata in November. Far lonelier walk than yours. I'm amazed how many people you met. It also got kind of cold and rainy by the time I got north of Merida and eventually I headed to Malaga for pizza and swimming. Maybe in the spring I'll return and start from Salamanca. You can help me out by chronicling your journey. I'll read every word with interest.Sevilla-Guillena today, over 23 km. Via de la Plata is known for its desolation, and I was warned that, especially in winter, I would be happy to meet a few other pilgrims...However, I have already contacted Shazia from India and Marie from Singapore via fb . Shazia had the same starting day and so we started together. Beautiful day, a challenging crossing on what should not be called a bridge, and a rain shower and mud track in the last hour. It was clay and 1 step immediately yielded a kilo of clay that stuck to your shoes. Especially in the deep profiles of my high-quality mileage eaters, as Shazia hops along next to me in her flip flops (yes, really) like it's nothing. Nice girl, nice click, right away we seem to have a lot of common ground, but we can also walk side by side in silence, in connection with the path. Once in Guillena, we meet Marie, who cut this first stage in half and therefore started yesterday. And Claus, a pilgrim from Denmark who has been in bed with the flu for a few days but is now on the mend. So we decide to make a communal dinner, Shazia and I go shopping and cooking, we both like that. After shopping we meet two more pilgrims, Lars from Switzerland and Alexandra from Poland. We have enough so they join us too. Top evening, top group, day 1. Tomorrow we have breakfast and we leave together
Tnx. I know about them and called them. They don't have a bed for me tomorrow..When I was walking the VdlP last spring I spent the night in a hostel just outside Torremejia, Hostel Milenium, a walking day of 26.7km. Hostel is ok. Next day to Merida, just 15,3km.
Love to tead your posts!
Early morning down to 2-5 degrees. And be aware most albergues don't have heating. Earlier this week during afternoon max temp around 20 degrees, now it's getting colder. Today barely 9. And still have a long way up north to go...Thank you for your posts - really enjoying your adventure. How cold does it get during the day? I have thought about doing the VdLP but not sure what time of year would be best. I was in Merida some 30 years ago - beautiful place. Good luck tomorrow.
Wow those pictureHmm.. a night in Torremejia or one in Merida. Wonder how this will end up. Looking forward to hearing your decision.
Meanwhile some pics to help you decide.
I am in Villafranca de los Barros, you? I am ok, in hotel Diana, as the albergue was closed. Getting ready for sleepWhere are you now? Are you okay ?
They only opened the Albergue in summer 2022.I remember that Ayuntamiento from this time last year. Very helpful and pilgrim friendly. Office up the stairs has a sello.
Pity they didn't mention the accommodation but a great tip.
That is just their normal demeanor. I love watching them!in a cafe where I was watched with suspicion by a dozen elderly men
I know exactly what you mean by just wanting to walk. I, too, found it hard to be a tourist while on the Camino. As much as I enjoyed walking around a town at the end of a day on the Camino, sightseeing per se was pretty low on my priority list. I can certainly enjoy visiting a beautiful church or cathedral or seeing ruins from the very distant past, but I found that my “pilgrim’s mindset” wasn’t as interested in the sights or attractions, but was instead more aligned with connecting with other pilgrims at the end of the day or reflecting and writing about the miles that I had just covered usually with a nice glass of wine sitting at an outside café. And this is perhaps the difference between travel and a pilgrimage.Impressive, that's for sure, and yet I felt out of place there... I just wanted to walk! And, no matter how impressive such an amphitheater is, a lot of old stones don't necessarily make my heart beat faster...while I do become very happy if I can blend in with nature...Anyway, I suck as a touristand later in the day I also found out that IF I want to look at things at all, this has to be done in a different order.
It is a long way and I always remind myself on all caminos, especially when I walked, all I have is today and today all I have is the step I am taking. After 2 days of arriving in Santiago I had my backpack on and was walking out of Santiago to Muxia and FInisterre!Day 10 Via de la Plata, from Aljucen to Alcuescar, 19.6km.
Cold and windy day, but a lovely sun and a beautiful route. It was pleasant again as usual and with that the struggle of yesterday is quickly forgotten. Legs and feet are fine, the only thing I struggle with after about 10 km is back pain. When the pain in my back gets too bad I have to pause and take off my backpack. After that I can continue, but it's still annoying, and no matter how I pack it or adjust it, it doesn't make much difference. It's my weak spot I guess, and I can deal with it. Meanwhile I thank my feet and legs for the ease in which they carry me.
Today I arrived quite early in Alcuescar, the pilgrim hostel is located in a kind of monastery. Very basic, based on donation, and of course no heating, but to my surprise a wonderfully hot shower. I immediately took one for over half an hour, meanwhile contemplating about how such a pilgrimage brings you back to a basic lifestyle without any luxury, so that getting a hot shower is suddenly a godsend gift, instead of a "habit" you take for granted.
The realization of the wealth we have here in the west, and how we usually take it all for granted, or even feel we are entitled to have it..
I personally love to experience that I can do without, life becomes wonderfully simple with everything you really need in your backpack on your back.
That being said... that hot shower was really divine.
Now waiting for the local supermarket to open (siesta..), my body wants to eat!! Unfortunately no cooking facilities here, so no hot food for the third day in a row. That too gets used to.
Tomorrow a stage of about 26 km to Valdesalor.
By the way, I had the sobering realization today that exactly in a month, I will still be walking
To be continued...
Yep, Muxia and Finisterre will mark the end of this Camino, not Santiago..It is a long way and I always remind myself on all caminos, especially when I walked, all I have is today and today all I have is the step I am taking. After 2 days of arriving in Santiago I had my backpack on and was walking out of Santiago to Muxia and FInisterre!
Hi Karin309, thanks for your great daily reports. You convinced me to bring a down sleeping bag instead of a silk one. I will start March 20th but from Cádiz and hope the temperature will be a bit more on the upper side of ZERO. To prevent the sleeping problem, I already started to reserve beds for the easter weekend. My back never hurts with my 6.5kg backpack, including 1L water.Day 10 Via de la Plata, from Aljucen to Alcuescar, 19.6km.
Cold and windy day, but a lovely sun and a beautiful route. It was pleasant again as usual and with that the struggle of yesterday is quickly forgotten. Legs and feet are fine, the only thing I struggle with after about 10 km is back pain. When the pain in my back gets too bad I have to pause and take off my backpack. After that I can continue, but it's still annoying, and no matter how I pack it or adjust it, it doesn't make much difference. It's my weak spot I guess, and I can deal with it. Meanwhile I thank my feet and legs for the ease in which they carry me.
Today I arrived quite early in Alcuescar, the pilgrim hostel is located in a kind of monastery. Very basic, based on donation, and of course no heating, but to my surprise a wonderfully hot shower. I immediately took one for over half an hour, meanwhile contemplating about how such a pilgrimage brings you back to a basic lifestyle without any luxury, so that getting a hot shower is suddenly a godsend gift, instead of a "habit" you take for granted.
The realization of the wealth we have here in the west, and how we usually take it all for granted, or even feel we are entitled to have it..
I personally love to experience that I can do without, life becomes wonderfully simple with everything you really need in your backpack on your back.
That being said... that hot shower was really divine.
Now waiting for the local supermarket to open (siesta..), my body wants to eat!! Unfortunately no cooking facilities here, so no hot food for the third day in a row. That too gets used to.
Tomorrow a stage of about 26 km to Valdesalor.
By the way, I had the sobering realization today that exactly in a month, I will still be walking
To be continued...
Hi Paul, last year I walked the VdlP, including Sanabres. Started in Seville early april. I did not needed the sleeping bag at all along the trail. Temps in March between Cadiz and Seville are usally between 15C/22C (day) and 5C/12C (night). You may check the historical weather data at site Wunderground.comI will start March 20th but from Cádiz
Hi Paul, last year I walked the VdlP, including Sanabres. Started in Seville early april. I did not needed the sleeping bag at all along the trail. Temps in March between Cadiz and Seville are usally between 15C/22C (day) and 5C/12C (night). You may check the historical weather data at site Wunderground.com
Thank you for this! It touches my heart.This day I walked with her in my heart, reviewed so many beautiful memories and felt blessed... that I got to know her for so long in this life..
It feels like the end of an era (again), though I know the true connection will always remain.
For my first camino she gave me my first stone, to put it down at the Cruz de Ferro. For myself, and also a little for her. I put the stone in a crack in the crotch. My stone, her stone.
Thea, today was for you
For my first camino she gave me my first stone, to put it down at the Cruz de Ferro. For myself, and also a little bit for her. I put the stone in a crack in the crotch. My stone, her stone.
I stayed there last night, in the Hostal Milenium. It was actually OK. I paid 25 Euro. The owner was nice, the shower was hot, the bed was comfy, and there was heating. It was quite basic, but no regrets. Btw, the Cerveceria Casa Madrile is very pilgrim-friendly. The guy behind the bar was a star. I saw a local order the fries and it seemed like a good portion for 4 Euros. I also ordered it and got about double the portion. when I left, the guy behind the bar wished me a Buen Camino! I recommend!I would say it's a blessing that the hostal in torremejia did not have a bed for you. That place (and town in general) is one of the worst places in all my days on the camino. Congrats for walking a marathon all the way to Merida! The next albergue in El Carrascalejo is great with a kind hospitalera.
Mmm, life itself gave me that lesson quite often already..that's the beauty of it allOne thing I learned from the VDLP is you never know what is in store for you next. It looks like you are learning that too!!!
One of the caminos great gifts to us is exactly what you have written. Hopefully a better way to deal with surprises and you are dealing like an all star!Mmm, life itself gave me that lesson quite often already..that's the beauty of it allWe always have the choice of how to deal with all the surprises we meet on our way
Don't know what you mean with "on the embalse" . Where is that?I wonder if that great Albergue on the Embalse will ever reopen?
Tnx!Embalse is the large lake you'll pass on the way to Canavaral. There is/was an albergue there but its been closed for some time - structural or drainage problems. Helped split that very long section.
Embalse is the large lake you'll pass on the way to Canavaral. There is/was an albergue there but its been closed for some time - structural or drainage problems. Helped split that very long section.
Yep, that's looking back to Caceres!Great view in that first photo, Karin. Is that looking back to Caceres? You were definitely on the "official" VdlP, by the way. The route on the carretera is the bike option, which is why I haven't seen that view.
This is great to hear — it sounds like some official organization has decided to take the arrows off that road. Since it was a Saturday when you walked, @Karin309, you would have been lucky to avoid the M-F horror of a continuous stream of workers coming towards Cáceres at high speeds, with a few trucks thrown in for fun. It is really a very dangerous stretch, probably in the top 3-4 most dangerous stretches I’ve experienced in many years of walking caminos. People on the forum have been talking about this for years, and I think the route you took is described in this thread.Although ... from Caceres the official route (at least on my app) is mainly along a motorway, through slightly undulating landscape. However, if you follow the yellow arrows to get out of Caceres, you'll be sent up a narrow rocky path, and as a bonus you'll be allowed to climb a quite sizeable hill.
You are right, that's exactly the route I took. And now it is marked with yellow arrows, although in my app the route still sends you by the motorway..This is great to hear — it sounds like some official organization has decided to take the arrows off that road. Since it was a Saturday when you walked, @Karin309, you would have been lucky to avoid the M-F horror of a continuous stream of workers coming towards Cáceres at high speeds, with a few trucks thrown in for fun. It is really a very dangerous stretch, probably in the top 3-4 most dangerous stretches I’ve experienced in many years of walking caminos. People on the forum have been talking about this for years, and I think the route you took is described in this thread.
I am enjoying your posts very much. The weather looks great, for now at least!
Hoping the app developers will remove the highway alternative! Buen camino, Laurie
Keep an eye out for a pile of Roman milestones over on the side of the camino. Looks like humanity has a long track record of just leaving its junk for others to worry about, but in this case it’s kind of cool to see the markers that used to take people on this route thousands of years before the arrows.Tomorrow it's done with the lazy days, then there's a stage of 33 km to Canavaral.
I know this is an old post, and you aren’t going to come across this guy again, but smart phones are pretty amazing in this regard. Last year, I walked the Camino de Torres and was in an albergue in San Muñoz with a mother and son from Ukraine. There was absolutely no other option in town, otherwise I would not have intruded. The town had opened up the albergue to refugees, and it was a completely equipped single family home, previously the teacher’s house, I believe. Anyway, the mother had google translate on her phone. She talked in Ukranian and out came a written version in English. Then I responded in English, etc etc. Not perfect but I would give it a five star rating for making conversation possible when it would not have been otherwise.However, he doesn't speak English and we dont speak Spanish. So we interact though smiles and signlanguage but conversation is very limited.
I used Google Translate of course..but José was very reserved, and so I respecteren that...However it was nice to meet him every eveningKeep an eye out for a pile of Roman milestones over on the side of the camino. Looks like humanity has a long track record of just leaving its junk for others to worry about, but in this case it’s kind of cool to see the markers that used to take people on this route thousands of years before the arrows.
I know this is an old post, and you aren’t going to come across this guy again, but smart phones are pretty amazing in this regard. Last year, I walked the Camino de Torres and was in an albergue in San Muñoz with a mother and son from Ukraine. There was absolutely no other option in town, otherwise I would not have intruded. The town had opened up the albergue to refugees, and it was a completely equipped single family home, previously the teacher’s house, I believe. Anyway, the mother had google translate on her phone. She talked in Ukranian and out came a written version in English. Then I responded in English, etc etc. Not perfect but I would give it a five star rating for making conversation possible when it would not have been otherwise.
I walk solitary caminos too, and I know that push and pull that comes from the desire for companionship versus the exhilaration that comes from being out there alone in contemplation of the world around you. And then, too, the forum is here for your virtual human connections if there’s no one at night to talk to! Buen camino, Laurie
Oh, silly me, I forgot that you are a youngster and would have known all about this years ago.I used Google Translate of course..
YoungsterOh, silly me, I forgot that you are a youngster and would have known all about this years ago.I remember that in 2019, I was with a Spanish pilgrim in Vegacervera, and he was describing how he communicates with non-Spanish speakers. It was a program called “Say Hi” and I remember that my jaw about dropped to the floor when I saw how it worked. I guess all of this is old school by now, but it does work some magic!
That probably puts you at about a decade below the median age on the forum. Based on my calculations, you’ve got at least 35 more caminos in you.YoungsterGoing on 47
Great support!Good luck, amiga peregrina!
Wow, thanks for all the help!! I figuren out the problem with the flooding, de detour to Riobolos will solve that. However I don't want to stop there, I want to get to Galisteo. That Casa Rural you mentioned is in Galisteo??I had a response just a minute ago. He is open, you should contact him via WhatsApp, 34 616 93 17 45 and tell him you are the peregrina.
He told me that he didn’t know anything about floodings, and sait that the only thing it could be is from the “arroyo”, called the Arroyo del Boquerón. He said you will see it when you get to the highway after going through the intersection with a turnoff for Riolobos — that makes no sense to me, because my memory is just not that good.
His mention of Riolobos reminded me that there is also a place to stay there — if you look at the alternative route on Gronze (which was the official route for a few years till they figured out a way around some nasty landowner who was blocking access), you can see a casa rural. They used to take in a lot of pilgrims, but I don’t know what the story is now. They are also on WhatsApp - I just checked - so you could try them too. 34 670 73 30 93. Casa Rural Abuela Maxi. Their website, abuelamaxi.com says they have pilgrim prices for 20 25€, including breakfast, kitchen, towels, sheets. I’ve never stayed there, but I know people liked it. Good luck, amiga peregrina!
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Heey, dont be so hard on yourself! You have gone out of your way to help me, and you don't even know me...I am very gratefull for that..No it’s in Grimaldo so that is of absolutely no help. When you mentioned an expensive casa rural, I immediately thought of Cesar’s place, which is not in Galisteo but in another town after Cañaveral that starts with a G, Grimaldo.
I once stayed in the Pensión Emigrantes in Galisteo, which was fine, is that not open?
This is not my first messup today, so I think I am doing more harm than good on the forum, I apologize!
Embalse de Alcantara, on the shore of the Dam. Around halfway to Canaveral. it was a great stop.Don't know what you mean with "on the embalse" . Where is that?
wind slanted against me
tough not to get blown onto the road...
So many more than these ; that show how your day changed continually….the sun shone wonderfully
I thought about hostal Asturias, although I don't want them to pick me up - that is, if I don't find myself stuck in a storm again... However on booking.com it's 60euros just for me, which is really over budget... I tried to call them, didn't work. I have send them a text, they did not respond yet. Hopefully they will, then at least I still have the optionKarin
Im just loving ‘walking alongside you’ virtually. Enjoying the detail of both the beauty and difficulties and your weather description really makes me ‘feel it’.
(
So many more than these ; that show how your day changed continually….
& you walked such a loooooong day. Hat off to you.
You have already chosen your next stopping point but for anyone else thinking about where to walk/stay … the Hostal Asturias has a number of rooms ., decent meals available and ‘bonus’ point …they will pick up from the arc de Caparra and take you to their accommodation ‘gratis’ if you phone them (as per link below ).
Well done -each day, I look forward to your daily log.
Buen camino
Hostal Asturias - Alojamientos Asturias y Jarilla | Hostal | Gronze.com
Información del Hostal Hostal Asturias, en Alojamientos Asturias y Jarilla: precio, plazas, características, etc...www.gronze.com
Hi KarinI thought about hostal Asturias, although I don't want them to pick me up - that is, if I don't find myself stuck in a storm again... However on booking.com it's 60euros just for me, which is really over budget... I tried to call them, didn't work. I have send them a text, they did not respond yet. Hopefully they will, then at least I still have the option
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