The terroirs of the
Camino Frances are truly fascinating. As you walk you will note that the soil changes a lot along the CF. Some places will be predominately clay (nasty when wet), chalky (as you approach the Meseta). The micro-climates of the plains and mountainous areas of Leon and Galicia are also intriguing.
As you walk pay close attention to how the vinateros manage their respective vines. I found that the Spanish farmers use a variety of management structures. There is a lot of sun particularly in Rioja so canopies are not pruned as aggressively as in upstate New York.
On the Camino itself you will actually encounter Bodegas Irache just outside of Lorca and Bodegas Jacobo outside of Navarette. Both are in the Rioja Baja area. The grapes there are the tempranillo and garnacha. If you are walking in mid to late September as I did, the fruit is there for the picking.
In Cacabelos, stay at the Hotel Moncloa. It is a family run hotel. They have their own vineyards as well. They grow the Mencia grape, which is excellent. Outside of Cacabelos you will climb up a long hill. There are Bodegas outside of town. As you divert to the right in Pieros you will walk down to Villafranca del Bierzo. There will be rows and rows of vines.
You can always make arrangements to visit the various bodegas by calling ahead. I found the vinateros to be very happy to discuss their grapes, cultivation techniques, micro climates, etc. My Spanish was really challenged in some instances so I hope you speak better Spanish than I. Nevertheless, they were very happy to accommodate a pilgrim.
While in Galicia I became very partial to the Albarino grape. There is just so much to take in on the Camino.
Have a "grape time" John
