katie@camino
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- CF, SJPDP-Finisterre 2016;CP (Central) Porto-SdC 2017;CP (Coastal) Porto-SdC 2018;CF Leon-SdC 2019
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I walked the Camino Frances in the school holidays in Dec / Jan 2013/14. I was walking this route as a test run to walking the following year in the winter, and it was a wonderful experience. I will put my blog address below, you may find it helpful. There is plenty of infrastructure open along the way - you just may not have as much choice as when walking in the busier season. I always found albergues at a comfortable distance, and restaurants and bars open (though I always carried a few muesli bars - in case!). Walking in winter time I never got up early, often not starting till 9.00am because of the dark, and knowing that it was only the (surprising) occasional Australian, quite a few Koreans, and a sprinkling of other nationalities that I would meet (generally not till days end). I was often the only person in the albergue. the Valcarlos route was speical, as was the albergue in the village. I resorted to catching a bus down the mountain from O'Cebreiro because of the snow, and then sloshed my way through Galicia. I find snow a little scary (we don't see much of it here in Adelaide!) and so treated it with extreme caution. I saw the three kings parade on 5th Jan in Leon - that was great - again something we don't see here in Australia. Seeing all the Nativity scenes in bars along the way was special too - the people go to extraordinary lengths to build beautiful scenes in surprising places such as bars and restaurants, and of course in the churches. The bonus of walking at this time of the year is that as a general rule the mud is frozen and so you walk across it, rather than sink into it!
http://mywintercamino.blogspot.com.au/
Although 10 caminos and more than 450 nights usually in albergues provide limitless memories for which I am forever grateful, January 24, 2009, was singular.
I had walked 5 hours through strong wind, heavy rain, sleet and eventually dense snow up the Valcarlos route to the almost mythic monastery of Roncesvalles! Saw few people and no other pilgrims on the route; needed to ring the monastery bell to ask for shelter and would be the only one staying in the frigid old winter albergue tucked opposite the cloister entrance.
When opening the monastery door the surprised monk greeted me saying "Senora in weather like this!" After stamping my Credential and offering hot tea, he invited me to the evening benediction. As always it was lovely. The service was held in the ancient Romanesque church (wonderfully heated!!) in front of the magnificent silver sculpture of the Virgin. Three monks assisted and asked me to stand with them at the altar. ...In retrospect how special it was that snowy night to be the single pilgrim where crowds have stood and will continue to stand throughout time. ...
We started on 27 December. It is indeed perishingly cold, but you do warm up as you walk, so you don't need many layers. I used two plus a goretex jacket, my husband added a thermal base-layer as well. You do need good gloves, (I used caving gloves which gave good grip) and fleece headband or cap etc. Things may have changed recently but the only pack transport available was to get a taxi to take it to your destination. We used that once and our packs arrived. The weather was dry and crisp (very crisp!) with crunchy ice on the path in the mornings very often, but glorious clear skies. The days are short, so the evenings are long, and the TV in bars is just an endless series of game shows - take something to amuse yourself, like books or puzzles on your phone, or a pack of cards. That also means we often started out in the dark to get enough walking in before the daylight ended. There were almost no albergues open then, so we used cheap hostels/pensions. We always found bars open for a cheering something mid-morning and a cake. Walking in the winter was great, fantastic, amazing, but not for the faint-hearted. One thing very different to walking at other times was feeling alone on the path, you hardly meet anyone. That really means hardly anyone - you can go days on end, even a week or two, and not see another pilgrim. We liked that feeling of "owning" the camino, we definitely didn't have to share it with anyone, and the glorious scenery stretched out ahead without another person in sight. And we did like feeling tough about the cold - a bit of perverse pride.
I used ultrafine merino clothes and my husband used hi-tech synthetic. Ultrafine merino is lovely to wear, almost as quick to dry as synthetic and naturally anti-B.O. You can see more about this on previous threads. We both had sleeveless fleece jackets (vests) and a 2-layer Goretex jacket (waterproof enough and softer, thus more comfortable, than 3-layer). We both had Aarn Featherlight Freedom packs, which are waterproof, and still going strong after 3 caminos and countless days of bushwalking. We wore Akubra hats which are great in sun, rain, even snow (with a fleece headband - very fetching!) as they keep sun, rain and snow off your face. With this combination of everything we didn't need a poncho. Caving gloves. Trekking poles. I carried 6 kg (including the pack weight) , my husband the same weight in gear plus he carried all our electronics (chargers etc plus a camera) and water for both of us, adding 3 kg. We started usually about 7 (still dark) and finished at about 4. We loved it. Are you walking alone, though? It is very isolated, from both a companionship and a safety point of view. We met a handful of men walking alone, but no women doing it solo. This was 10 years ago, maybe someone who has done it more recently can tell you about numbers on the track.
Yes Katie, I was using an Aarn Pack. It wore out on the next trip and I have now switched to an Osprey (which sits very high near the head unfortunately). I used the front pockets on that trip for the first time - previously I had used just the pack. It was my second Aarn Pack, but it wore out half way through my next trip and I got a Marmont (French) one when in the UK. The one thing I don't like about the Aarn pack when using the pockets is that it has large footprint! Every time I put it down it would take up so much room - it splayed out and I couldn't hide it in the corner very easily!
If you want to have a chat the phone number on the afotc.org website will reach me, or the info email address.
Happy planning and Buen Camino, Janet
Also Maggie, were you able to use your FF as carry-on luggage, including the Balance Pockets?I used ultrafine merino clothes and my husband used hi-tech synthetic. Ultrafine merino is lovely to wear, almost as quick to dry as synthetic and naturally anti-B.O. You can see more about this on previous threads. We both had sleeveless fleece jackets (vests) and a 2-layer Goretex jacket (waterproof enough and softer, thus more comfortable, than 3-layer). We both had Aarn Featherlight Freedom packs, which are waterproof, and still going strong after 3 caminos and countless days of bushwalking. We wore Akubra hats which are great in sun, rain, even snow (with a fleece headband - very fetching!) as they keep sun, rain and snow off your face. With this combination of everything we didn't need a poncho. Caving gloves. Trekking poles. I carried 6 kg (including the pack weight) , my husband the same weight in gear plus he carried all our electronics (chargers etc plus a camera) and water for both of us, adding 3 kg. We started usually about 7 (still dark) and finished at about 4. We loved it. Are you walking alone, though? It is very isolated, from both a companionship and a safety point of view. We met a handful of men walking alone, but no women doing it solo. This was 10 years ago, maybe someone who has done it more recently can tell you about numbers on the track.
Maggie you're my hero! 6kgs! That's incredible! I upsized to a 50L Featherlight Freedom from a 36L Osprey bc I think I'll need the extra space for a winter camino. Do you feel your FF has made a difference to your walking posture/ease of walking? An Akubra is a great idea - did the size and rigidity of it bother you though? Yes, I think I would tend towards merino; my friend who got me onto Aarnpacks recommends Icebreaker.
Yes I intend to walk alone. I quite like my alone time, so that doesn't bother me. As far as safety goes, I might make sure I have some kind of pepper spray and a whistle handy.
I have read a few blogs of people who walk a winter camino and a lot of them have mentioned that there were a few warm days along the way, shorts and t-shirt weather. Did you encounter this?
What sorts of shoes and socks did you wear? I have only ever walked the Camino in Salomon trail runners and Injinji toe socks but I think I will need something a little more heavy duty for a winter Camino.
We take the balance packs as hand luggage and put the packs in the hold because they have our trekking poles in them.Also Maggie, were you able to use your FF as carry-on luggage, including the Balance Pockets?
@katie@camino I use a FF Aarn pack (have done for many years) and have just come back from Camino. I had no problems taking it onboard international flights but I keep the weight below 7 kilos and I detach the balance pockets. I usually have room to put them inside, and it is easier to manage getting the pack in and out of the luggage racks that way. An alternative is to detach the balance pockets, clip them together and use them as a "handbag". I'd rather only have one thing to carry (passport, boarding pass and wallet go in my pockets).
For hand luggage, the critical thing is to keep the pack under 7 kilos.
If you are flying down from Tamworth, you may not be able to take the pack onboard for the domestic flight - they are much stricter about the size limits.
If you are new to the Aarn pack and want to talk to me about it, send a PM and I'll give you my phone number. I'm in Sydney.
PS in 17 years of walking various caminos I've never needed either pepper spray or a whistle.
I’’ve done the Invierno not complete at May 2016, it was fantastic. Two weeks of walking alone, seen just one other pilgrim!Hi all,
The idea of a winter Camino (SJPdP-SdC) has been percolating in my mind for some time and after buying a super-duper, super-warm sleeping bag on the weekend, i think i am edging closer to making it a reality in Dec 2018-Jan 2019 (Australian summer school holidays). I have some questions that I am hoping someone who has experienced a Winter Camino or anyone who lives near this Way could answer, please.
1. What is the weather usually like in Dec/Jan, particularly on the first and last thirds of the Way? What is a typical temperature range of minimums and maximums? Is it as cold as it usually is in February? I have read a few blogs of people walking in winter but it seems most of those people walk in mid/late Jan-Feb.
2. Albergues and bars - are there enough open within reasonable distances (20-25km) of each other? I have checked out the website listing albergue open/close times for this year but am still wondering about past pilgrim's experiences.
3. Pack transport - i have a dodgy left knee, and as much as i have tried, i have simply been unable to complete my last 2 Caminos without sending my pack forward. I am strengthening my leg in the hope i won't need pack transport but i am wondering if pack transport is available in Dec/Jan just in case?
4. Lastly, what have been pilgrim's favourite things about their Winter Camino?
Thankyou for taking the time to read
guiacaminodeinvierno@gmail.comI’’ve done the Invierno not complete at May 2016, it was fantastic. Two weeks of walking alone, seen just one other pilgrim!
The original plan is too tough,
I contacted ASUNCION ARIAS, president of the Asociación de amigos del Camino de invierno, a wonderful HELP, and we reprogramed the etapas so I walked about 20 km each day instead 30-35 km.
Her telephone 616124521 ,
thanks Kanga, i will definitely do this.That is terrible @katie@camino . Can I recommend that you download the Alert Cops app onto your mobile phone and register your details (through the App) with the Spanish police?. You will need a local SIM card and it takes a minute or two to register (passport ID etc required). Once you are registered it only takes seconds to alert the police who automatically receive your location and the type of problem you have (sexual assaults, robbery, violence). It was adopted and refined by the Spanish police as a tool to assist pilgrims.
thankyou for sharing this, Robertguiacaminodeinvierno@gmail.com
Buen Camino
Hi Kanga, Did you have your poles and umbrella in your Aarn pack for carry on? Also, do you have the featherlite freedom 50 litre? Just wondering as I'd considering the Aarn packs(they are really comfortable!) however, I'd like to flexability of taking it carry on.@katie@camino I use a FF Aarn pack (have done for many years) and have just come back from Camino. I had no problems taking it onboard international flights but I keep the weight below 7 kilos and I detach the balance pockets. I usually have room to put them inside, and it is easier to manage getting the pack in and out of the luggage racks that way. An alternative is to detach the balance pockets, clip them together and use them as a "handbag". I'd rather only have one thing to carry (passport, boarding pass and wallet go in my pockets).
For hand luggage, the critical thing is to keep the pack under 7 kilos.
If you are flying down from Tamworth, you may not be able to take the pack onboard for the domestic flight - they are much stricter about the size limits.
If you are new to the Aarn pack and want to talk to me about it, send a PM and I'll give you my phone number. I'm in Sydney.
PS in 17 years of walking various caminos I've never needed either pepper spray or a whistle.
Yes @Chaya, I had my carbon fibre z-poles folded up inside and my umbrella strapped on the outside. The Featherlite is over the size limit for domestic carry-on luggage, but because the weight was below 7 kilos I was allowed to carry it on the international flights.
If I was buying a new Aarn and wanted something smaller, I'd look at the Natural Exhilaration, the Mountain Magic and the newest one, the Mobile Intention. I like the sound of the last but have not seen it except for the pictures on the web.
I suppose we could have booked a trip to Bali instead! But whats the fun in that??Another question for you generous winter Camino veterans:
There seem to be so many hardships (of the first-world kind) on a Winter Camino. Is a winter Camino worth it?
@Chaya I have not walked in February, but looking at Weatherspark, and using Burgos as my location guide, it is between 5 and 10 degrees colder, on average, than March. Which is quite a lot! Snow is likely. The CF is about the same latitude north as Hobart is south, but much higher. On the question of an umbrella - great if it is not windy. But in February you will also need to have windproof, waterproof gear. I would definitely take (or buy) something like an Altus if you do not have a waterproof jacket and pants.
"Spain is the second-highest country in Europe (after Switzerland), Spain has an average elevation of 660 m (2,165 ft), with 25% of the surface over 1,000 m (3,280 ft) and only 11% less than 200 m (656 ft).": Citrus College
Thanks again @KangaSo snow/mud could be my biggest issue. Time to update my gloves and look into gaiters.
I like to hike in a skirt with merino leggins in the Tasmania winter and spring Caminos... Has anyone on the forum had winter Camino experience wearing a skirt?
There seem to be so many hardships (of the first-world kind) on a Winter Camino. Is a winter Camino worth it?
I love hearing your plans Chaya, it helps me mentally make a pack listThank you @Kanga and @domigee
I do love my merino Icebreaker leggings however, I'll check out what I can do about wind as I wear Purple Rain skirts which are shorter than the Macabi. I'm researching gaiters, and feel they could help with wind protection too.
I decided to update my gloves as my lightweight Icebreakers won't be warm enough. Looking into Sealskinz gloves as there are some specials on at the moment. And will take a buff too... Thanks for the tips
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