LIVE from the Camino Winter Pilgrimage to Roncesvalles: Tips and Experiences

[chrislc90]

I just want to share some news /information (probably latest news) during this period for people that want to give it a try ..
It is said that fewer walkers tried this period of the year comparing to other seasons.
I started yesterday from SJPDP and after 26.5 KLM of an easy route arrived to Roncesvalles .Pilgrim's office personnel advise a) not to start before 8.00 as outside is still dark.and b) strongly recommended not to use Napoleon route due to icy and slippery parts of this route .so I took the other option through Valcarlos.There have ATM and supermarket for any refueling of food .c)all albergues accept only cash and not have POS for cards.so need to have a lot of cash to your pockets.
Outside of SJPDP met 3 guys more.one German and 2 Spanish (father and son).and later one korean.finally at Roncesvalles at the end of the day that we arrived 14.00 with 2 breaks of 20 min we were 12 pilgrims .traffic day for winter?

 

[C clearly]

Hi, and welcome to the forum. It is good to hear about your walk - please continue to post about conditions, and give any tips for winter walking.

You mention that the Pilgrim's Office "strongly recommend" not to use the Napoleon route. In fact, the route is officially closed at least from November 1 to March 31 each year, as explained here. There are too many cases of people needing rescue during those months! So I'm glad you took the Valcarlos route, which I've heard is very nice.

 

[Former member 104756]

That's so interesting @chrislc90 And wonderful.

Just 12 pilgrims in Roncesvalles. Wow. When I left SJPP on my first Camino I heard later from a friend in SJPP that I was one of 30 who had set out that particular day - not officially verified but it sounded about right from what I saw both the night before and on the day. Many more than years before, no doubt, and many many fewer than in later years.

It now sounds kinda magical to walk with so few people on the trail. I feel a winter Camino Frances is in my future. I will follow your path with interest.

Buen camino.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Pilgrim numbers were about 5-6/day in late December, but they have been growing again, and now vary between about 12 and 20ish. No doubt you'll see them grow further after Logroño, and especially from Burgos onwards.

Normally, the Napoleon route would be a complete no-no at this time of year, and it is indeed closed administratively, but the complete lack of snow and the warm, sunny weather yesterday, and no wind, meant that the Pilgrim Office actually could give just a recommendation. But if you get stuck up there despite the ideal conditions, from not being a strong enough hiker, and need rescuing, then you will pay a very hefty fine for it. But a strong hiker could have managed it yesterday. Today probably not, the wind is up again, and possibly rain, which up there could always turn into non-hikeable conditions.

Some Albergues accept cards, others not, but it's a good idea to assume not, then just pay with a card if and when they do, and keep as much of your cash in pocket as possible.

 

[chrislc90]

Normally, the Napoleon route would be a complete no-no at this time of year, and it is indeed closed administratively, but the complete lack of snow and the warm, sunny weather yesterday, and no wind, meant that the Pilgrim Office actually could give just a recommendation. But if you get stuck up there despite the ideal conditions, from not being a strong enough hiker, and need rescuing, then you will pay a very hefty fine for it. But a strong hiker could have managed it yesterday. Today probably not, the wind is up again, and possibly rain, which up there could always turn into non-hikeable conditions.

You are writing like you are somewhere above me and spy with a camera.lol.
If we were more for Napoleon route we give it a try but alone I did not take the risk.
Today after 22 klm through wonderful forests and amazing colours of nature arrived to zubiri.one hour of rain but not disturb us.
Yesterday we ate to Roncesvalles for 12 euro per person the dinner (chicken frozen not fresh with also not fresh potatoes and pasta and wine .and .the girl that served us very kind .morning 5 euro charged for orange juice ,coffee ,a piece of cake ,and two slices of bread with ham and cheese ,butter and marmelade.
At zubiri a very friendly girl from Romania,Sabina was there to dry our raincoats and rain covers from rucksanks.(so polite hospitality).
We paid 15 euro per person but it was 2 levels higher at least comparing to roncenvalles dormitories .and have also a fire place that running and waiting our destroyed knees.
For food we entered to a gas station 7 minutes from there to buy pasta sauces for our tonight dinner and things for our next day breakfast.
Super markets closed from 14.00.
Sabina told us to pre booked for pamplona to Aloha hostel our beds as is the unique albergue that is opened this period and in the official list referred that is necessary prebooking ..for 23 euros per person
We cooked home made pasta and now ready to refill our baterries for tomorrow .one Chinese 20 years old added to our company that walked today from valcarlos to zubiri .

 

[chrislc90]

That's so interesting @chrislc90 And wonderful.

Just 12 pilgrims in Roncesvalles. [...]

It now sounds kinda magical to walk with so few people on the trail. I feel a winter Camino Frances is in my future. I will follow your path with interest.

Buen camino.

10 people for me it's too much traffic..when I listen behind me maybe 100 meters the noice of the metal lower part of stick of another pilgrim to the stones I understand that iam near to a civilization ...

 

[JabbaPapa]

You are writing like you are somewhere above me and spy with a camera.lol.

I set out from SJPP same day, just in the opposite direction.

Don't know if we met properly, but we may have said ¡Buen Camino! to each other.

 

[rtcunha]

Thanks for sharing @chrislc90 !

I'm starting in less than two weeks, (21st of Jan)... How was the weather (specifically snow)? Also, how was the availability of accommodations in SJPdP?

Thank you and buen camino!

 

[chrislc90]

Raining all day and through wonderful landscapes in the forest walking to the river's bank reached to Pamplona after 22 klms .starting 8.30 the German ,Croatian and me when the 3 Koreans and the Chinese starting without daylight at 7.30. about 16.00 with slow walking arrived to Aloha hostel.The knees are ready to exploded through the ears .the room is clean but not have a fireplace as zubiri that we need it so much to dry ourselves and the clothes.23 euro per person and about 18.00 a round downtown in the rain.cathedral was open so before to taste different tapas and beers to different bars/restaurants we visit the alabastrous sculptures of king and queen of Pamplona since 14th century .The knees now without the extra 12-15 KGS of rucksacks seems to be ok .we are fly ...Pamplona is a city that you must spend a day for refresh your body and see sightseeings..when I walked to the bank of the river I made a second promise .to visit the same route during summer only to stop every 1 hour and take a bath and to combine with the Napoleon route that now not crossed.finally Camino it is addictive.

 

[chrislc90]

Thanks for sharing @chrislc90 !

I'm starting in less than two weeks, (21st of Jan)... How was the weather (specifically snow)? Also, how was the availability of accommodations in SJPdP?

Thank you and buen camino!

The first day it was not windy and perfect sunshine .the next 2 rains .not see any snow only to the peaks of some mountains to the horizon .I carry some snow clothes in case of face snow conditions and this makes my rucksack 13.5 kgs.In SJPDP you can sleep everywhere ,I booked via booking a hotel room to be sure when I was still on train from Bayonne.but in Pilgrim office the nice lady that do not speak English offered me to sleep to the albergue that belongs to the office if I understand correct .but I had already booked .the scale that told me to put my rucksack to check the weight shows 2 KGS extra ..lol..comparing to electronic mine.when I saw it I scared ..

 

[chrislc90]

Forget to mentioned that in zubiri we proced to the gas station that have supermarket things after Sabina informed as about this tip in case we don't find a restaurant or similar to eat something .and this option was the best finally .7 minutes walking from the room and took pasta sauces to prepared our dinner (better homemade and bigger plates than to eat outside and to buy also the things for our breakfast .the zubiri room I think that will be the best from all the Camino accomodations according to the facilities tat offers.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I am heading towards Lourdes from Navarrenx, so heading towards the mountains again and well, the first proper snow on the Pyrenees has fallen over the past 48 hours, so incoming pilgrims be advised.

No more potential daily exceptions for good weather plus good hiking skills, the Napoleon pass is now entirely closed for business, both administratively and practically.

And pilgrims should realise that from time to time in Winter, even the Valcarlos route can be shut down.

Hopefully, OP can continue to advise us about conditions over on the Francès this Winter, the meseta particularly.

 

[chrislc90]

Yesterday arrived to puenta la Reina .an amazing sunny day with no wind. From Pamplona to the mountain's peaks we met this famous metal pilgrims constructions .only the Forrest of wind generators make a small mesh to the magnificent landscapes.7 euro for the dormitories .several rooms with 6 beds inside .and kitchen for cook .supermarket in 7 minutes distance to buy anything and we preferred this option as the suggested options did not covered our needs ..today an even better day .we started 8.30 to walk when the 4;south Koreans started one hour before us. Again an amazing route through green fields and the smell of the ground reminds you that the spring is blossom .not need even a jacket all day ..and you need to protect yourself from the strong and hot sun.we wondered how survive the summer pilgrims with 40-45 Celsious .and after almost 22 klms arrived to Estella's albergue hosteria de curtidores that accept cards except from cash and paid 17 euro for a private room with bathroom and breakfast for 6 euros . Photos from puente la Reina accomodations.have also washing machine and dryer for 3 +3 coins euros

 

[JabbaPapa]

It's raining fairly heavily, on and off, in Oloron-Sainte-Marie this morning, so that it will be snowing up there.

 

[chrislc90]

Arrived to Torres del Rio.as Los arcos not provide any opened albergue.And after we tasted a juice to a bar opposite of Los arcos church and booked our beds to del Rio ,bar boy informed us that the man that he just entered to the bar and gone was the owner of an albergue ..if we would like to stay there..but we continued ..to hostel La PATA de oca ..and for 28 euro including dinner we climbed to the second floor .here have ATM and hostel accept cards but not now during winter..only cash.the big room very traditional with logs to the roof and 12 beds but only one shower and WC and an air condition that is not possible to heat the space .additionally not have something to put your wet clothes from rain to dry for the next day .Hosteria de curtidores rooms to Estella have password locks to the outer gate also to the rooms.it was traditional and very nice and we cooked there with things that bought down town .photos from curtidores attached and as a souvenir a had my first big blister and I ask you.to break it with a needle or let it like this till opened accidentally?

 

[JimG59]

I'm no expert, but if it was me and the skin has not broken I would gently insert a needle and try and squeeze out some fluid. You may need two holes, close to the edge. Additionaly do not remove the skin covering from the blister thereby exposing raw flesh.

I would put a dresssing, elastoplast or compeed over the blister. I'm not a fan of threading a blister.

I have a sore heal just now from using my Timberland boots for a longer walk than I intended. The skin is off, leaving raw flesh.

 

[Grousedoctor]

Arrived to Torres del Rio.as Los arcos not provide any opened albergue.And after we tasted a juice to a bar opposite of Los arcos church and booked our beds to del Rio ,bar boy informed us that the man that he just entered to the bar and gone was the owner of an albergue ..if we would like to stay there..but we continued ..to hostel La PATA de oca ..and for 28 euro including dinner we climbed to the second floor .here have ATM and hostel accept cards but not now during winter..only cash.the big room very traditional with logs to the roof and 12 beds but only one shower and WC and an air condition that is not possible to heat the space .additionally not have something to put your wet clothes from rain to dry for the next day .Hosteria de curtidores rooms to Estella have password locks to the outer gate also to the rooms.it was traditional and very nice and we cooked there with things that bought down town .photos from curtidores attached and as a souvenir a had my first big blister and I ask you.to break it with a needle or let it like this till opened accidentally?

Regarding the blister, I can only offer you what has effectively worked for me. On my first CF, I developed blisters on both feet. I left them along and they got bigger with every step that I took. Since then, I think that I’ve successfully stayed away from the blister problem. First, open up the blister with a needle and let the liquid out. Make the opening large enough so it doesn’t quickly re-close. Treat it with some type of antibiotic ointment and don’t cover it when off the Camino. Let it drain and dry out. I’m not a fan of covering a blister with anything other than paper pharmaceutical tape. Prior to walking in the morning, clean the blister, make sure no liquid has built up again, and then cover that area with the paper tape. Check it a time or two while walking. Re-bandage your foot as needed and even change socks in the middle of the day. Although it will be sore for a couple days, it shouldn’t get any worse. In the future, if you notice a hot spot developing, stop and make sure a blister hasn’t already started. If it has, open it up and tape that area until you can address it better after stopping for the day. Good luck.

 

[chrislc90]

I followed your advice ,both of you.(Grousedoctor &JimG59 ).
First I penetrated from different directions with a needle and a rope (like Rambo lol) and l let the rope inside for keep if it was possible the holes open.i pressed the sack to remove all the liquid and the blood and let it all night to take fresh air .In the morning I observed that the sack was full of liquid again .so I just cover it with a hansaplast and not with a compeed.after 1 hour of walking I didn't feel anything.at the end of the day I saw that the liquid was still there .I just took a shower and removed the old hansaplast and let to take fresh air till tomorrow morning .I wonder if instead of Vaseline the baby powder (talk) is a good or better solution for inside the socks .A second blister observed to the same position but to the right leg and because is veryyy small I just covered with a compeed .The weather was amazing like summer .and the route through the fields with a great view ..the old houses to viana with the traditional style I like it very much .I admire continuously their architecture .we booked to hostel winederful to Lograno

 

[chrislc90]

Logrono to najera 31 klm."accidentally all pains to the knees and the muscles disappeared ..."nice sunny day but windy.outside of Logrono a park that squirrels just entered to your pockets to steal if smell that you hide something .the most shy just beg for it .

 

[JimG59]

A red squirrel, rare to see here in Scotland, how nice. How is the heel ?

 

[chrislc90]

A red squirrel, rare to see here in Scotland, how nice. How is the heel ?

Jim thanks for asking. Now after 9 days not exist any pain (the last 5 days) .the last 5 days created a new one to the other right heel and because it was veryyyy small less than 4-5mm I decided to use compeed .to tested .and I came to the conclusion that compeed is good only if you don't walk and rest your legs .it's totally useless if you walk and for so many klms per day.so after 4 days the new blister became so big that wanted to explode out of the compeed.so I removed compeed and drilled 6 holes with a needle to remove the liquid and that's it .today is almost perfect both of them .only the outer skin remained to remind me that existed blisters in the past.

 

[chrislc90]

Arrival to najera and booked to Las penas for 12 euro .weather perfect .not windy only sunny.
But the next day to granon not have opened albergues so we booked to Santo Domingo de la calzada.we enjoyed a beer to a golf field with sunny summer day

 

[chrislc90]

But after the hill start the rain mixed with snowflakes that melted at once
To belorado the alberque and it's manager received the silver medal.for 23 euro we received everything .very good dinner for 14 euro .
We met a Netherland guy and argentina girl .

 

[chrislc90]

Next day the rain all day .very strong wind .one step forward half step back .and snow .but the landscapes through the woods amazing.

 

[chrislc90]

And arrived to burgos.we have booked a nice apartment with 3 rooms 6 beds ,2 baths 350 m from cathedral. For 2 nights 235 euro .4 person's we decided to stay one day to rest and because coming snow .and visited the amazing cathedral.

 

[chrislc90]

Amazing day and experience...

 

[chrislc90]

Our target hornillos del camino through a perfect environment without wind.

 

[chrislc90]

Just yesterday arrived to Santiago.
After burgos all days were hot and sunny .only a T-shirt without long sleeves it was enough after 10.00-11.00.
Leon it was the city that stayed one day to see the cathedral and the windows are amazing .this art of stained glass windows that depicting stories from the bible .

 

[chrislc90]

The way to astorga magnificent .especially when in the middle of nowhere meet a guy that stayed there and offers you orange to make a juice self service..

 

[chrislc90]

Snow and ice to the Refugio of o cebreiro

 

[chrislc90]

From triacastela walked directly 44 Klm to portomarin and not stayed to sarria.the weather was perfect and I felt that have power to do it.only fog in the morning .the only day that had fog till 10.30

 

[Febs]

The way to astorga magnificent .especially when in the middle of nowhere meet a guy that stayed there and offers you orange to make a juice self service..

A curiosity: is the weather cold at that point where you found the guy who offered you an orange juice? I see in your pic that there is a tent, so people sleep outside. I don't have tent, just winter sleeping bag and pad: could I sleep outside?

 

[chrislc90]

A curiosity: is the weather cold at that point where you found the guy who offered you an orange juice? I see in your pic that there is a tent, so people sleep outside. I don't have tent, just winter sleeping bag and pad: could I sleep outside?

The weather it was more than sunny and hot.of course this only during daylight.but when sun goes to sleep have real cold with temperature drop below zero.
If your sleeping bag is for military survivors with comfort real temp -20 yes you can sleep .I am telling this because I have my sleeping bag for real ice conditions and used it to slept to Finland outside with -24 degrees Celsius ..but these tents that you saw in the photo have also some benches and blankets but are for summer time .but if you can afford it the cold you can use the place .

 

[chrislc90]

After portomarin I felt that passed and cured all my pains to knees and blisters and continue with more power .palas del rei was nice .stayed to the municipal albergue and continued to Arzua. From Arzua I just arrived very fast to o pedrouzo so I stayed only for 25 minutes to eat a pasta and to receive magnesium peals from a pharmacy and 18.01 I was in front of piligrim's office to Santiago de Compostela.

 

[chrislc90]

The American guy that I met him on road 15 klms before he told me that I was the reason that he increased his pace to arrived there and even I was 200 m in front of him and I just followed the shells to the ground and Google maps to reach to the office he managed to take the credential.so I said ok ..no problem tomorrow I will visit again the office .09.50 I was there and I was the second person that received the 2 credentials .and they gave me a ticket for a free meal to paradores restaurant (after I learnt why ) ..
We visited the cathedral about 11.45 and the guard informed us that we can not enter with out rucksacks.so we let them for 3 euro to the souvenir shop that he told us opposite of the cathedral .start the mass and I was surprised when the priest mentioned the first 10 pilgrim's nationalities that took the credential this day.

 

[chrislc90]

Next day continued to negreira (next target Finisterre) .now not have stress to collect stamps every night from albergues and bars

 

[chrislc90]

If you asked me if I would do it again?
Yes but with my terms.
Especially when I listened rumors that during summer the pilgrims start walking after midnight so early morning ( not only for avoid the hot sun and the high temperature ) to be to the first albergue for catch a bed ..ok this is a bad marathon under stress
I want to do it carrying my tent ,sleep and rest in the middle of nowhere through the woods and the river and to start walk and stop to walk without need to collect stamps that approve your walking .

 

[chrislc90]

About weather conditions I was soooo lucky. I met snow rain ice fog strong wind that you can not go one step forward but this was the 5% of all the days .all days sunny even with 0 or -5 deg Cel.
All days after 10.30 removed my jacket and walked with a short sleeve T-shirt.
They said about Galicia raining but it was perfect .Camino protects me...and gave me what I need .

 

[Febs]

The weather it was more than sunny and hot.of course this only during daylight.but when sun goes to sleep have real cold with temperature drop below zero.
If your sleeping bag is for military survivors with comfort real temp -20 yes you can sleep .I am telling this because I have my sleeping bag for real ice conditions and used it to slept to Finland outside with -24 degrees Celsius ..but these tents that you saw in the photo have also some benches and blankets but are for summer time .but if you can afford it the cold you can use the place .

Thank you. I'm carrying an heavy sleeping bag bought in Canada (even in summer, temperature shifts below the 0°C). It is OK until -22°C.
Do you remember where is it located? I would like sleeping outside once to see the sky and stars