LIVE from the Camino A Christmas Camino

[Luka]

Hi fellow peregrin@s! I gave up on FindPenguins and will instead try to post here about my little Christmas Camino on the Portugues de la Costa.



Greetings from A Guarda/La Guardia! It has been a bright sunny day! I decided to start my camino on the border with Portugal. Just got my first stamps.


Both albergues in town are closed, so I am staying in hotel Bruselas. Got a nice big room.

It will be my first winter camino. I am prepared for rain, but so far I seem to be really lucky with the weather. Let's wait and see...

Yesterday I spent the night in Santiago. The city was so different without pilgrims! Really nice, families and groups of friends in the streets, children running around.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Best of luck to you, Luka!
I will look forward to your posts, and it looks like a few lovely pictures may accompany them.

 

[Siegfried]

Buen Camino Peregrina
What was your intentions to walk the camino at christmas time ?
Let us participate

 

[Luka]

Buen Camino Peregrina
What was your intentions to walk the camino at christmas time ?
Let us participate

A combination of factors. The Portugues was on my list, but I have been reluctant because of the crowds. Hence walking in winter. I am a freelancer and the Christmas hoildays work well to take days off, because my clients do the same. And I thought it must be kind of special to walk this time of the year.

 

[Luka]

Day 1: A Guarda - Mougas

When I said goodbye this morning, the owner of hotel Bruselas asked me to pass on a message to Saint James: to send her many pilgrims. And if that wasn't possible, to send her the money instead.




Bright blue sky when I walked out of A Guarda. A bit of a cold wind, but what a bliss.

And a heavy pack. Winter gear, but I also stocked up on food at the supermarket in A Guarda. That turned out to be a great idea. I have seen nothing open on the way. No bar, no shop, no restaurant, no bakery, nada de nada.





I met only one other pilgrim, a (fellow) Dutch cyclist. He was doing the Camino in reverse and then going further down south. He said that he saw a couple of other pilgrims in between A Guarda and Vigo, so there must be more people on the road.





I booked a room ahead in A Casa de Florinda, the only option I could find. It is a village house with 2 bedrooms about 1 km from the Camino. Livingroom, kitchen and bathrooms are shared. But I am the only one here.

All great. I am laying on the couch now while my laundry hangs to dry in front of the fireplace. Happy that I put a few freeze dried meals in my pack.

 

[J Willhaus]

Looks like your weather is excellent. I looked at the forecast for us next week and plenty of rain is predicted.

 

[Luka]

Looks like your weather is excellent. I looked at the forecast for us next week and plenty of rain is predicted.

Yes, I noticed that too. Looks like I am going to need my rain gear quite a bit as well in a couple of days.

 

[M&M from OZ]

Luka,
It makes us want to return and be there walking the Camino once again. We look forward to your updates and photographs, they are fantastic. Sending you warm wishes for a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year on the Camino.
M&M

 

[ShoshTrvls]

Yes, I noticed that too. Looks like I am going to need my rain gear quite a bit as well in a couple of days.

Seeing that as well. Guess my waterproof socks and rain skirt will definitely get tested!

 

[Juliawalking]

Very best wishes for a Buen Camino Christmas, looks like we are many following you with interest. Keep safe and have a wonderful and blessed time.

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

Hi Luka,
I wish you a wonderfull Christmas Must be very special to walk at this time of year.
How was your second day?
Buen Camino

 

[Luka]

Day 2: Mougás - Sabarís



I stayed under my duvet and downed a few cups of tea before I had the courage to go outside. Beautiful sunny days mean cold mornings. And why hurry anyway?



Day 2 started with another couple of kms following the yellow concrete road. I had forgotten about all the asphalt on an average Camino. My knees and hips complained (and well, so did I). Fortunately the asphalt was alternated by beautiful coastal paths and a nice climb into a forest.



Still no other pilgrims in sight. And nothing open until Baiona. That beautiful fisherman town was full of life and I sat happily down on a terrace, watching some locals getting drunk and seagulls stealing my croissant.

In the albergue Playa de Sabaris I met the first other pilgrim. A shy girl who immediately retired to her bunkbed.

As it is Christmas Eve and a Sunday I expected I would have to open another freeze dried meal. But there happened to be an open Carrefour at 1 km from the albergue. Lucky me!



So Christmas dinner was a microwaved fresh pasta with broccoli and cheese. Not bad!

Sorry, no photos. A moderator reminded me to upload downsized photos or thumbnails and both options don't seem possible on my mobile phone...

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Sorry, no photos. A moderator reminded me to upload downsized photos or thumbnails and both options don't seem possible on my mobile phone...

@Luka, I always take a screenshot of any pictures I want to use on the forum. It "dumbs them down" a bit, and I think that would work for you, too...worth a try!

 

[Luka]

@Luka, I always take a screenshot of any pictures I want to use on the forum. It "dumbs them down" a bit, and I think that would work for you, too...worth a try!

Thanks for the tip! I think it works, but it is also quite a bit of extra work.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thanks for the tip! I think it works, but it is also quite a bit of extra work.

Your pictures are very nice! Yes, it's a bit more work, unfortunately. You should be able to choose the "thumbnail" option instead of "full size". They can be enlarged by people wanting to take a closer look.
Also, you can add in a space between each photo...I see you have now done that.

 

[C clearly]

If you want the photos inserted within the text paragraphs, they can be re-sized on a computer by dragging the corners. I'm not sure about on a phone. If you don't mind having them all at the bottom of the post, you can just insert and then delete the full size images if they have loaded. Then you should see the thumbnails at the bottom. However, this can get complicated on a phone. At the moment, though, we seem to be doing fine!

Merry Christmas for tomorrow!

 

[Freewalker]

Beautiful photos Luka ! Enjoy every step and what a wonderful gift to yourself to walk a camino over Christmas. Merry/ Happy Christmas to you fellow peregrina.

 

[lovingkindness]

Merry Christmas, @Luka!

 

[Luka]

Day 3: Sabaris - Vigo

Woken up by the cleaning lady at 9.00am. The owner told us last night we could sleep in and leave at 10.00am. But she forgot to tell the cleaning lady. I hastely packed my bag and had a quick breakfast of fruits on a bench. It was still cold outside but the sun helped.



I chose the coastal option today and was really happy with my choice. Beaches, lots of beaches. People strolling on the boulevards.

In Sabaris we were with 3 in the albergue, today in the Xunta Albergue it is just me and one other pilgrim. The hospitalero said that yesterday there were none.



I met up with @ShoshTrvls and her child to enjoy the famous christmas lights of Vigo. The little joys of a Christmas Camino.

 

[ShoshTrvls]

@ShoshTrvls, @Luka and Ellery enjoying the Christmas lights of Vigo

.

 

[J Willhaus]

So sorry you had to make a hasty exit! Glad you found the Xunta albergue open. Merry Christmas to you @Luka .

 

[JWB]

Merry Christmas to you all!

 

[Luka]

So sorry you had to make a hasty exit! Glad you found the Xunta albergue open. Merry Christmas to you @Luka .

No worries! The cleaning lady was very kind. It was just that I wanted to let her do her work, so she could go back to her family.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Luka, absolutely stunning Christmas light displays in Vigo! A definite highlight of walking at Christmas.

 

[JLV]

Luka

Thanks for posting looks wonderful, have a buen camino. I did not think that anything would be open Christmas eve or day,but that is great news.

 

[Luka]

Luka

Thanks for posting looks wonderful, have a buen camino. I did not think that anything would be open Christmas eve or day,but that is great news.

You'll have to search for it and come prepared. I always carry food in my pack.

 

[Luka]

Day 4: Vigo - Redondela



Everything is a little bit different this time of the year. We didn't have to leave the Xunta Albergue by 8.00 am (when it is still dark), 9.30 am would be fine.



Leaving cities, I think it is nobody's favorite. In Vigo it is about 3 kms uphill. Gronze promised me a nice path (Senda da Auga) after that, but the nice path meant more asphalt for an hour or so. Then it got nice indeed, with views on the harbour and the river down below.



There is something else that is different from walking in high season, I think. People greeting me in the streets, wishing me Buen Camino, showing me the way, having a chat and even shouting 'Buen Camino' to me from cars.



Entering Redondela I saw a deli that was still open. I left with a good bottle of local wine in my pack. It was 2 kms more to my albergue A Darsena Do Frances, the only one I could find that was open.



The owner sent me a code, so I could help myself inside. There is just one other pilgrim here. I don't think I'll meet the owner. Fair enough. Happy to be able to stay here.

Tomorrow I'll be walking on the Portugues Central. Curious if I'll meet more pilgrims then. @ShoshTrvls said they saw 'only' 4 today, walking from O Porrino to Redondela. Sounds like a crowd to me.

 

[J Willhaus]

Ah, the familiar receipt of a Xunta albergue! I am assuming the one you are at tonight is private though? Looks like a big rain coming on Thursday so stay safe.

 

[Luka]

Ah, the familiar receipt of a Xunta albergue! I am assuming the one you are at tonight is private though? Looks like a big rain coming on Thursday so stay safe.

Yes, this one is private. Thanks for the heads-up!

 

[J Willhaus]

Un río atmosférico trae lluvias persistentes a Galicia - http://www.lavozdegalicia.es/notici...sistentes-galicia/00031703596347067544105.htm
Looks it will begin tomorrow afternoon and not Thursday.

 

[ShoshTrvls]

Un río atmosférico trae lluvias persistentes a Galicia - http://www.lavozdegalicia.es/notici...sistentes-galicia/00031703596347067544105.htm
Looks it will begin tomorrow afternoon and not Thursday.

Yes, seems that way. We may leave earlier in the morning to try to beat it to Ponteverda.

Ellery and I are also in Redondela, and had a wonderful dinner with @Ester. That is, the company was wonderful but there was not a single (vegetarian) meal on the menu for Ester!

 

[Luka]

Yes, seems that way. We may leave earlier in the morning to try to beat it to Ponteverda.

Ellery and I are also in Redondela, and had a wonderful dinner with @Ester. That is, the company was wonderful but there was not a single (vegetarian) meal on the menu for Ester!

That is unfortunately very typical (I am vegetarian as well). Should be a bit better in Pontevedra tomorrow. There is at least one vegetarian restaurant. If we all make it before the rain, we might do a (late) lunch there?

 

[Luka]

Day 5: Redondela - Pontevedra

Started walking in the dark to beat the heavy rain that was forecasted in the afternoon. And I wasn't alone. Madre mía, so many pilgrims. The Portugues Central is definitely more travelled than the Portugues de la Costa. I lost count, but I think I saw at least about 20 other pilgrims?


I loved today's stage! It is actually quite funny, the first one that wasn't coastal, but the best of all I would say. Lots of forest paths and a lot less asphalt.


And the very best of it all? This was my 5th walking day in a row and my Achilles tendons are still alright!

I took the alternative path along the river almost until the railwaystation of Pontevedra. A bit longer, but definitely recommendable.


I arrived at my albergue just about when it started to rain. After a well needed shower and rest I had a nice late lunch/early dinner with @Ester, @ShoshTrvls and Ellery.


It is a different Camino from now on. With much more pilgrims and much more (open) facilities. The days of carrying food are over.

 

[Simperegrina]

@Luka are you walking with a light sleeping bag eg single season, or a heavier duty one?

enjoying your report

Buen Camino!

 

[J Willhaus]

More rain today, but sounds like the worst may be over until New Year's per weather reports. I am leaving my home on about an hour to begin my journey towards the Camino. Hope your group continues to find food and shelter without difficulty.

 

[ShoshTrvls]

It rained most of the way today from Ponteverda to Caldas de Rei but it was relatively light and no wind.

 

[Luka]

@Luka are you walking with a light sleeping bag eg single season, or a heavier duty one?

enjoying your report

Buen Camino!

A heavier one. I think it weights about 1,4 kg? Most albergues are warm though.

 

[Luka]

It rained most of the way today from Ponteverda to Caldas de Rei but it was relatively light and no wind.

So you made it

 

[Luka]

More rain today, but sounds like the worst may be over until New Year's per weather reports. I am leaving my home on about an hour to begin my journey towards the Camino. Hope your group continues to find food and shelter without difficulty.

Buen Camino to you and your students!

 

[ShoshTrvls]

So you made it

We did! not a difficult walk at all today, save for the rain.

 

[Luka]

Day 6: Pontevedra

A super rainy restday. The plan was to see Pontevedra, but I have walked around less than I wanted because of the almost constant rain.



My Achilles tendons needed this day though, I could feel that last night. So I am taking it slow. Doing laundry, collecting stamps, hanging around in cafes and bars. No complaints. Restdays are always just a bit strange. A pilgrim needs to walk.

 

[Kirkie]

You said it. A pilgrim needs to walk. I hope the rest has restored the tendons...

 

[Luka]

Sorry, there are a couple of days missing here... (I am home by now...)

Day 6: Pontevedra - Caldas de Reis



A very nice stage with lots of walking on dirt paths in forests. And however it was very humid and cloudy, it didn't rain. So far the only (very) rainy day was Day 5 (when I had a rest day in Pontevedra). The weather has been much better than expected. Lucky me.

I was warned by @ShoshTrvls (who was by then walking 1 day ahead of me) that they only saw one open bar on this stage. So I ate a BIG piece of tortilla de patatas there.



I stayed in albergue Agarimo (more a pensión) and had the single room for €20. A good deal. The 'dorms' are only 3/4 beds each though (and no bunks). Very reasonable price for washing machine and dryer (€2 each).

 

[Iandvt]

Loved this thread, we arrived in A Coruña on Christmas Day 2022 - Highlight was sitting in the bus shelter eating turkey sandwiches in the rain

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@landvt, I've had a couple of lunches similar to yours, too, over the years. The memories are actually quite nice, but I don't recall having such a nice smile on my face...at the time.

 

[Luka]

Loved this thread, we arrived in A Coruña on Christmas Day 2022 - Highlight was sitting in the bus shelter eating turkey sandwiches in the rain

Yeah, bus shelters are great on rainy days!