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Amazing Hontanas


We left Burgos with heavy heart looking the cloud laden sky and prepared for the worst. It has been quite chilly the night before and I wish we could stay on for one more day!
Surprisingly the sun shines brightly as soon as we left the city through the Pimgrim´s Gate.
Guidebooks warn about the endless Meseta trail and its blandness. I found the walk quite refreshing (many peregrinos on the camino today) as the red poppies fields contrast beautifully with the green wheat fields and darker blue hills beyond. I used to think the walk from Pamplona to Peunte la Reina was the most beautiful but today´s walk is even better. I keep looking around to spot all kinds of birds singing their heart out on the sunny plains. The walk is long and the trek down to Hornillos del Camino really hurt my poor blistered feet but looking back at the reddish fields and a mob of sheep with the shepherd and his dog, no scene is more pastoral.
There are poppies everywhere and the best one is above Hontanas before you spot the village churh down below. Words fail me.
We stayed at a casa rural in Hontanas. Many hardy souls (and soles) walked on to Csatrojeriz but 31 kms is more than enough for me. A tiny square by the church is a meeting place for peregrinos both from albergues, casa rural and the hostal Feunte Esterlla. We sat lazily in the sunshine nursing our tired feet drinking the first glass of wine and all is right with me.
Inside the church, you are welcome by a very beautiful music (religious chanting)played from the stereo system quietly. Sitting there by yourself, contemplating what you have done in life and what you can do in the future is one of the precious moments I most enjoy on the camino.
If you are like me who prefers private accomm, I would recommend this hostal. 3 ladies run the hostal and restaurante and they are superb.
Beun camino, yáll!
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Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Le Puy-Santiago(2008) Cluny-Conques+prt CF(2012)
The poppies in the countryside sound so beautiful. Thanks for sharing all this info.


Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (2006)
Ah those poppies! So beautiful in contrast to the green around them and yet so difficult to photograph.


Active Member
Since a picture is worth a thousand words, can anyone provide a picture of these fields covered with poppies.... Javier ? :wink:


New Member

I tried to capture some, sent pictures to the photo album, to Camino in spring. Even though, the reality is far more beautiful!

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