Aubrac - things to see and things to eat

[TMcA]

Aubrac is a kind of postage stamp village high on the Aubrac Plateau. Last spring I more or less sped through the town on my way to Saint Chély. Three weeks ago I spent more time there and first discovered a small, free museum just off the entry to the town. All in French as was the video of traditional cheese-making and aligot-making, both endangered by, I believe, recent health regulations. There is a cafe in the museum. This museum is worth a walk-through, but it's a little easy to miss if you don't deviate 50 or so yards from the GR65.

In the museum is information on the tower and church which are passed on the way into the village and were built in the 12th century for pilgrims making their way to Santiago.

A bit about food...from my trip last spring

Chez Germaine is a resto just to your left as you enter the "heart" of this small village. Prices are somewhat high. Portions are just plain huge. Food is very good. Their specialty is fruit pastries - tarts and cakes - and you really need a fellow hiker or even two to finish a single portion of one of their confections. This is a must-stop resto for big-eaters.

More food...from September's hike

As my wife and I hiked across the plateau we struck up a conversation with a solo French hiker who was stopping over in Aubrac. He had been told that there was an excellent tête de veau to be had at the hotel in town (Hôtel de la Dômerie). He also mentioned that he was looking forward to a good Marcillac red as the perfect accompaniment to his t.d.v. His enthusiasm was a bit contagious and we also had dinner in the hotel restaurant and ordered a bottle of a Marcillac. At dinner the solo hiker had managed to pick up a friend and appeared quite content with his meal and younger dining partner. Food at this place is very good and offered good value. I did not try the t.d.v., however.

 

[marbuck]

Somebody has to ask so it will be me, what is a t.d.v. ?

 

[Mike Savage]

Somebody has to ask so it will be me, what is a t.d.v. ?

Google translate tells me it is "Calf's head" I wonder what the real translation is.

 

[mspath]

Google translate tells me it is "Calf's head" I wonder what the real translation is.

Tête de veau is a distinctive French dish prepared with calf brains cooked in an aromatic bouillion and served warm with sauce gribiche, a mayonnaise-like sauce enriched with capers and chopped pickle. Boiled potatoes are the usual accompaniment. This dish was the favorite of former French president Jacques Chirac.

MM

 

[scruffy1]

Tête de veau, or calf’s head, is a rather scary looking thing when cooked, definitely one of those dishes best left to a well-trained kitchen staff needed to confont a dish that can take between four to seven hours to prepare correctly. The hardest part of the recipe is to first locate a calf’s head-not such a problem in rural France. The only edible part are the cheeks or jowls, a tough fatty bit of meat requiring special treatment and long cooking, quite interesting but is actully an aquired taste. Our American cousins, those from the south, have a similar dish for New Year's Day - hog jowls and black eyed peas, not a personal favorite.
S

 

[cornishtim]

Stayed in the 'Tower'. with five walking friends. Wonderful experience. And the museum is great - as is the food they produce!

 

[Carol06]

And of course Bras restaurant near Laguiole. Michelin stars and all. Not too sure about pilgrim attire though.