August VdlP (Grayland 2013. ......LUKA. 2014)

[grayland]

:shock:
I am leaving in a couple of days for Seville to start on an August VdlP :shock:
(I do know about the heat)
I will try to post on this thread from time to time if my iPhone does not melt.

 

[piogaw]

Hello grayland,

Enjoy your walk on the via de la plata. Make sure you carry enough water. There are long stretch of the route with no access to public water supply.

Do keep us posted on your walk. I have not experienced this camino during august as i have walked this past winter. How many days are you planning to walk? Are you going via sanabres? Do stop by merida, caceres, salamanca and zamora for extra day.

Buen camino and god bless.

 

[William Marques]

Good luck on the frying pan of Europe.

 

[grayland]

I am planning to walk via the Sanabres unless the railroad construction proves to be too annoying at the time I reach the area. I would then go via Astorga which would not be my first choice.

I should reach Santiago about 17 September in time to serve two weeks with JohnnieWalker in the Amigo Program.

My wife will meet me in Salamanca and walk with me from there.

 

[Canuck]

At that time of the year? Good luck!
Hope you make it to the end. Wish you the best.
The bets are on.

 

[peregrina2000]

[attachment=1]Alcuescar.jpg[/attachment]

Grayland, Buen camino to you. I am very much looking forward to any "live from the camino" reports you're able to send our way. And hoping that the elements are nice to you.

I don't know if you're a fan of old churches, but there is one show-stopper a few kms from Alcuescar. If you do a short day from Aljucen to Alcuescar, you'll probably be there in early afternoon, and maybe this little detour will appeal (this is listed from an earlier post of mine):

Since I planned my stages to have a short day into Alcuéscar, I was able to take the time to walk to Santa Lucía del Trampal, a 7th century visigothic church. It's an extremely pleasant walk, on a totally untraveled country road, through cork trees, grazing fields, nary a soul. The road leaves from the Ayuntamiento in the center of town, the street is named Fuente del Castaño. If you are facing the ayuntamiento, it´s the street off to the right, and you just stay on it for three or four kms. There are occasional signs for Santa Lulcía, but you don't need them. I arrived at the church at about 3:15, ate my lunch and took a rest, and promptly at 4, the woman in charge arrived and opened everything. The church is most interesting from the outside, it has an unusual three apse structure. There is also a Centro de Interpretación, with a very interesting ten minute video and some good explanations of how the church/monastery were built, their development over the centuries, etc. The setting is bucolic, in the middle of a huge field with tons of wild flowers, cork trees. I would highly recommend this, if you add the 7 or 8 km onto the 20 kms from Aljucén, it´s very do-able. Especially if you consider that you won´t have your packs on for those last kms.
[attachment=1]Alcuescar.jpg[/attachment]

 

[piogaw]

hello again grayland,

i hope the construction of the AVE line and the road constructions along the n-631 and n-525 do not disrupt you from enjoying the via de la plata.

maybe we will bump into each other in sdc. i will also be returning to sdc to continue my work in the albergue in september as part of the amigo programme.

god bless.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Holy Moly, Grayland, you are a brave soul!

I look forward to any reports you may have on the construction.

Buen Camino!

 

[grayland]

Thank you Laurie for the information on Santa Lucia. I will make an effort to visit it.

Annie.. I guess I shall see if it is a challenge I can't meet. 8)
The older one gets... the sooner you must take on the difficult and see how it turns out. There are not too many older than me wandering about the caminos so I have to operate on the "sooner" schedule. :?

 

[jirit]

Hello grayland

I wish you and your better half, a safe and enjoyable walk.

Hopefully you get "spring like" weather in August (hey given this year it is very well possible).

At the very least, carry plenty of water and wear plenty of sunscreen.

You will walking, at least until Galicia, through Spain's version of "Australian outback!"

 

[krazeekuban]

BUEN CAMINO! SEE YOU IN SANTIAGO! I WILL VISIT BEFORE I WALK TO FINISTERRE

 

[samba]

hi August ,wish you all the best and wont repeat what others have said -except yes it is like the australian outback .i did it in july and only did from Seville to Merida .it was 44 degrees the day we left Seville ,and i have photos of us sitting under long what looked like banner grasss ,and later cactus trees .But it did get better after the first week ,still hot but bearable .Yes lots of water ,and some energy food as not the same little cafes and roadside stops as on the camino from st jean .You will probably start early anyway ,unlike us slackers who learnt the hard way .
Having said all that ,i really liked what i did of the vdp because it was less travelled (i did the other in 2006 and its much more beautiful and varied and set up ) ,more realistic in that its like well thats what this country is (hot ,harsh ,parts very beautiful especially as you go through the hills further on ,villages mirages on the horizon gradually solidifying as you get nearer ,hard lives with little money and lots of physical work ) I want to go back and do the rest ,maybe starting from Granada ,or maybe just bus to Merida and start there .Zafra is beautiful too ,just the arabic buildings and fountains .
best wishes ,buen camino -hope to read about your walking .

 

[nalod]

Good luck and enjoy. It is something I want to do in August.

 

[grayland]

I an in Banos today. I decided to start from Merida in order to arrive in Salamanca to meet my wife.

It has been over 40 every day except today where it is 37 at 1400.

It is much worst than anticipated and I thought it would be very bad

I know now why people abandon this Camino in the heat. Lots of walking on asphalt which cooks you from bottom up while the sun cooks from the top. I was very sick the first few days (heat exhaustion I guess). Made it through but each day is almost impossible by noon.

No one else stupid enough to be walking. Albergues empty but ovens.
A few bikers have passed me by. One stopped and offered to share his water yesterday.

Umbrella helps a bit with the direct flames from El Sol but you still roast.
Stopped and smelled a rose in Grimaldo but it burned my nose.

Seriously, it is too hot to look at anything, eat, sleep or anything else.

Otherwise having a great time and wish you were all here.

I see it is a few km's straight uphill out of here in the morning on highway part of the way. Oh well....

I wonder if it would be any easier if I were 50 years younger which would make me 25. :~

I hope this is coherent. I was pretty confused from the heat for awhile.

 

[Cejanus]

Oh you are indeed a brave man Grayland to walk in such heat. I know that heat and it is so oppressive! Drink lots and lots of water. I could never do this now at my age. In my younger days yes but as I have become older my body no longer copes with that heat. Take care and God bless.

 

[peregrina2000]

Grayland, I was just thinking of you as I wrote to someone starting from Lisbon next week, where temps are expected to hit 100 F. Thanks for checking in. It sounds like a really really hard walk. I'm hoping that you can take a break in Salamanca, and maybe as you move north the heat will become less oppressive. Though I learned this year that Ourense has some of the hottest temps in all of Spain, which certainly surprised me.

We are thinking of you, good luck with the next few stages, that day into Salamanca is shadeless and a bit hilly at the end. I hope you can take it in stride. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[andy.d]

Go well Grayland - I remember walking in the mid to high 30's on the Levante in early September - I remember that confusion the heat brings. Good luck and buen camino

Andy

 

[LTfit]

Hi Grayland,
I was also wondering how you were getting on. I experienced the same my initial days out of Sevilla but after about 4 days became "acclimated" to the heat. Eating gazpacho and salads and adding a can or two of Aquarius to my camelback kept me going. My walking companion drank pure Aquarius but that was too sweet for me. What also helped was snacking on bits of fruit as I had lost my appetite. Things should start to cool off at least slightly to the north of Salamanca, at least that was my experience.

When I arrived in Zamora this year mid July the temperature was a pleasant 31c and continued to drop along the Sanabrés. In fact I had wished that it were a few degrees warmer but I like the heat! What Laurie mentions about Ourense is correct, one of my Camino companions told us that it has a microclimate but even at that it was nothing like the heat of Andalucia and Extremadura.

I was surprised that you mentioned asphalt because the only long stretch I remember up to Zamora was the 16 km after Castilblanco...how easily we forget! You will come across some stretches of asphalt along the Sanabrés but the lovely scenery will distract you .

Take care of yourself and keep hydrated!
LT

 

[William Marques]

Did you feel very young in Banos. I remember when we were there 10 years ago that it was full of pensioners taking the waters and despite our 50+ age then we were by far the youngest.

If I remember correctly the way out of Banos was up the old Roman road and though tough quite a highlight.

 

[grayland]

Did you feel very young in Banos. I remember when we were there 10 years ago that it was full of pensioners taking the waters and despite our 50+ age then we were by far the youngest.

If I remember correctly the way out of Banos was up the old Roman road and though tough quite a highlight.

I can't imagine a thermo bath with hot weather... But did see lots of old people going in. The way out of Banos is indeed straight up the old stone Roman Road for about 1 km and a couple of miles on highway. It was great as I started before seven and missed the direct sun. Also, it is on the west side of the hill so stayed in shade until about 8:30 .....a steep long climb but no sun.
Felt good.
Cooler today and only in mid 90's

 

[Una]

Hi Grayland,
YOU ARE AMAZING! ULTREYA AND TAKE CARE! KEEP POSTING IF YOU CAN.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi grayland, you are one strong peregrino. I hope that you are dealing with these awful temps -- leaving at 5 am seems like a great plan. Not too long till Salamanca -- I hope your wife can take the heat as well as you seem to. Maybe some rest days in that glorious city?

You can take really short stages between Salamanca and Zamora if you need to, and the albergue in Calzada de Valdunciel is cute and welcoming.

If the weather gods won't reduce the temps, couldn't they at least give you some clouds? I don't think there's much if any shade for many kms now. Buen camino, peregrino, we love to hear from you! Laurie

 

[Anniesantiago]

The Banos DO have a cold plunge too?
Grayland, you are in my thoughts. Please let us know how you're doing.
Having walked this in the summer for a couple of weeks, I feel for you.
Please take care.
Annie

 

[grayland]

The Banos DO have a cold plunge too?
Grayland, you are in my thoughts. Please let us know how you're doing.
Having walked this in the summer for a couple of weeks, I feel for you.
Please take care.
Annie

I haves made it to Salamanca. Somehow I am a day early??? I was not paying attention to any schedule in the heat so must have walked further. Hard to believe as all I could think of (when I could think) was to stop and get out of the sun.
Not much relief as the temps remain at 36c (96f). They are saying it will continue for at least a week more. Maybe I should come back when I am younger.
Ellie, my wife, comes tomorrow and we will have to see if it is possible for her to walk. I would not want her to experience what I have just finished. I would really hate to go to the CF as the crowds are not my favorite. I think it is hot there also.
I know nothing about the Camino Portugal so that would not be easy.
The tourist office here says they have not seen a pilgrim for a long time. They did give me a English guide to the VdlP which would have been great when I started.
Sitting in shade on Plaza Mayor. Relaxed and cool for first time since I started.

An Italian cyclist told me that his bike computer registered 51c (124f) on the asphalt roads when the temp was 42 for a few days He said other bikers confirmed the same. No wonder I felt cooked. I am surprised the soles on my boots did not melt.

 

[William Marques]

Salamanca is a great place to spend a day or two and sitting in the Plaza Mayor there was one of those few times when I have felt that I was in the best place on Earth at that moment.

 

[peregrina2000]

Greyland, what a great feeling to be in Salamanca. You've come a long way in what seems like a very short time! Maybe not to you, though. If you can take three days to get to Zamora, you've got three easy stages ahead of you. At least easy when the temperature is not out of whack.

If you head to another camino to escape the heat, the problem is that you will undoubtedly plunge into crowds -- a member of this forum just gave up on the Camino de Baztan from Bayonne to Pamplona after one day because the crowds were unbelievable and the accommodation sparse.

Wishing you a wonderful stay in Salamanca, and buen camino to you and your wife.

 

[flyingbluelizard]

Dear Greyland,

Congratulations on reaching the beautiful city of Salamanca. I have been following your progress with interest since I will be joining you on the VdlP at the end of this month to walk from Banos de Montemayor to Muxia. I do hope that the temperature will soon drop since dehydration is a ghastly prospect. Muchos shade and water is the order of the day! Best wishes and perhaps we might meet up next month. Meanwhile rest well and enjoy!

Neil

 

[grayland]

Greyland, what a great feeling to be in Salamanca. You've come a long way in what seems like a very short time! Maybe not to you, though. If you can take three days to get to Zamora, you've got three easy stages ahead of you. At least easy when the temperature is not out of whack.

If you head to another camino to escape the heat, the problem is that you will undoubtedly plunge into crowds -- a member of this forum just gave up on the Camino de Baztan from Bayonne to Pamplona after one day because the crowds were unbelievable and the accommodation sparse.

Wishing you a wonderful stay in Salamanca, and buen camino to you and your wife.

Thanks Laurie (and others)

We will be in Salamanca a couple more nights. Then will try short hops to Zamora as you suggest. However the high 90's will have to let up.
I was surprised To learn that Orence has the same high temps. They are in the extreme heat warning area now according to TV.

I had hoped I had survived the worst of Extremadura and would be in more acceptable weather by now.

No problems with crowds on this Camino. Salamanca is crowded with sweating tourists but I have not seem any Pilgrims. Maybe I will go by Albergue and look in.

 

[hotelmedicis]

Grayland,

Amazing that you did this in August, thanks for the updates and you know, it's quite inspiring! I just might try this myself next summer!

Many thanks and good travels to you.

 

[grayland]

I would add that is hard to post on an iPhone with heat swollen fingers.

 

[grayland]

Grayland,

Amazing that you did this in August, thanks for the updates and you know, it's quite inspiring! I just might try this myself next summer!

Many thanks and good travels to you.

Wait until you are 75...it is more fun Seriously, I dont think age has any bearing on the heat problems.
I did share one night in an albergue with a guy who said he was doing this because he was into "enduro" sports
He said he was abandoning the VdlP and maybe coming back in Spring or Fall as he had enough. He was in late 20's so I actually made it further then he did.
That does make me smarter....

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, grayland,
My 88 year old mother always gets angry when people say she is an "inspiration" to them, so I won't say that to you, especially since you aren't that much older than I am -- but I do want you to know I am in awe of your endurance.

weather.com suggests there is a cooling trend, even down to the mid-80s in a week. I suppose that would seem like heaven to you, and I sincerely hope that it comes to pass.

Hope you are able to enjoy the next few days. What I remember is that even though the days get really high, there is a nice swing back to the low 60s at night, which might make early morning walking very enticing!

Keep in touch, let us know what you do next! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[grayland]

It does cool down here in the Salamanca area at night and is pleasant in the morning.
The problem back in Extremadura was that the way is poorly and haphazardly marked in many places making it unwise to start in the dark. This means not before a 7am start at the earliest.
It becomes VERY hot by 9:30 or 10 after which I began to slow down. The distances between possible stops always seem to be very short or very long with nothing between...not even a tree.
This means walking well into the afternoon heat without a break.
Hard times.
Temperatures in the 80's would seem a relief to me now but we shall have to see how that will affect Ellie who arrives today.

I did look in on the Salamanca albergue. They had 5 Pilgrims including bikers. They looked very tired and weather beaten. I suppose I do too..but don't feel that bad now.

 

[piogaw]

i hope you and your wife are enjoying salamanca, among my favourite cities in spain. the tourist office in plaza mayor does not catered to peregrinos. the information provided are mostly for tourists.

the municipal albergue next to the old cathedaral is a very small place.

when you get to zamora, drop by the tourist office to pick up a copy of the camino de santiago pilgrim guide to the vdlp published by the castilla y leon regional government (available in english). it contains a gold mine of information on all the town/city you will be passing through all the way to santiago including all the statistics on all the town/city.

que tengan un buen camino y dios os bendiga.

 

[grayland]

A bit of an update. Ellie arrived on Salamanca with no problems and we enjoyed a couple of days in Salamanca.
The heat as lessened by a good deal and it is only hot now. Cool in the mornings and pleasant to walk.
A huge difference from earlier weeks when I was alone.
We will reach Zamora tomorrow and have been taking it very easy to allow Ellie to start slowly.
Last night we actually had another Pilgrim on Albergue with us and two Spanish cyclists arrive about 8 pm.
Getting crowded.
It was nice to talk with other pilgrims.

Things are looking up for now.
Not sure where to stay in Zamora.

 

[andy.d]

The albergue in Zamora was decent a few years ago. Plenty of hostals too.

Andy

 

[peregrina2000]

Grayland, I'm so glad the weather is improving. I think you will probably get some cooler temps on the Sanabres, because places like Lubian just don't strike me as hot summer spots.

I was in the albergue in Zamora in June. It was great. Two volunteer hospitaleros, some small bedrooms with private bathrooms, breakfast in the morning, etc. Very clean. I usually stay an extra day in Zamora to get my "romanesque fix" -- there are at least 24 romanesque churches in the city. If you wanted to stay in a private place, or if you will stay a second day, you could try the little pension right in the same square with the ayuntamiento. Kevin of this forum recommended it to me. And for a splurge, there's always the parador -- one year I went in on a lark and got a two night special for 60 euros a night. Very comfy and great location.

The library in between the parador and the albergue doesn't close at mid day and has a ton of public computers, so maybe we'll hear from you tomorrow!

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[alansykes]

The day I arrived in Zamora last December I got mild frost bite in my hands in freezing fog from el Cubo de Tierra del Vino. Not a probem I imagine you've had.

Hope you enjoyed the Sunday night paseo in Zamora. And the wonderful glut of romanesque to come - the out-of-the-way church of Santiago de los Caballeros, where el Cid was knighted, is worth the detour, and there's one of the best Santiago matamoros altarpieces in one of the churches in the centre.

 

[peregrina2000]

Alan and I have the same favorite Zamora church. It is tiny and peaceful, outside the castle walls and off the tourist path. A wonderful spot for quiet reflection.

 

[oceanparkwashington4]

Alan and I have the same favorite Zamora church. It is tiny and peaceful, outside the castle walls and off the tourist path. A wonderful spot for quiet reflection.

View attachment 5971

View attachment 5972 View attachment 5973

Grayland emailed and they are in Albergueria now. Ellie says they left their shells there and she loves the place. Thanks for this board. I am proud of Ed and Ellie for getting so far.

 

[piogaw]

hello to luis and i hope you two are enjoying your orujo con hierbas.

congratulations for walking so far.

buen camino and god bless.

 

[Luka]

Wow... I am thinking of following into your footsteps Grayland... Walked from Sevilla to Aldeanueva del Camino in May last year. Would love to continue on. The only time I'll have this year will be in August... Did it get better heading north? Temperatures should be better around Salamanca than around Sevilla, I suppose. Where all the albergues open with almost no pilgrims?

 

[LTfit]

Hi Luka,
Good to see you around again. I walked Zamora-Santiago-Muxía-Finisterre last July/August and I found the temps quite reasonable. All the albergues were open even though there were usually only about 5 of us, on occasion more with cyclists.
You will be heading into the mountains from Aldeanueva then back down. The stretch from Salamanca to Zamora can be warm but when I got to Zamora the temp was 31 and then got cooler a few stages later.
Groet,
Lee

 

[Luka]

Hi, thanks for your quick reply! I am just not able to detox from walking and camino addiction... It keeps coming back

 

[LTfit]

You are not the only one - take a look at my signature! Laurie a fellow forum member made the comment that I am on the three Camino a year plan!

 

[grayland]

Wow... I am thinking of following into your footsteps Grayland... Walked from Sevilla to Aldeanueva del Camino in May last year. Would love to continue on. The only time I'll have this year will be in August... Did it get better heading north? Temperatures should be better around Salamanca than around Sevilla, I suppose. Where all the albergues open with almost no pilgrims?

The heat lessened dramatically from Salamanca on, Luka.
It was not cool but not overly hot through Zamora and got pretty cool in the mornings after Zamora.
The albergues were all open.
We arrived in Santiago in mid September and had rain for the next couple of weeks while working as Amigos.
We were alone in the Albergues until Zamora and then they were pretty full. We had nights when we where the only ones were us and the small group we were walking with.

 

[lynnejohn]

My thoughts are with you intrepid adventurers walking the VDLP in July/August.

We are on the biennial camino plan, and this is the 3rd time that we will be walking the VDLP, however, we plan (and always have ) for completion in June.

All options are always open, of course, so I'm very interested to hear how things go . . .who knows when we might walk a summer on the VDLP??!!!

Buen Camino a todos!!

 

[grayland]

Actually, this year we are walking the Norte..starting in late August. Hopefully it will not be a repeat of the VdlP heat of last August.

Luka has posted she is doing the VdlP in August of this year. Not sure where she is starting as I remember she did a portion last year.
Hope she is north of the really serious heat.
It really was hard and difficult to keep going....but one must go on. I probably would not do it again in the August heat. From Salamanca on is very doable.

The CF can get very hot in July and August also.....but the VdlP is over the top.

 

[Luka]

@grayland thanks, good to hear that all albergues are open. I have left off in Aldeanueva del Camino, so would like to start from there the beginning of August. That is about 4 days south of Salamanca. I'll have only three weeks, so I think about walking to Astorga and from there maybe experience the vibes on the Camino Frances for a few days.

@LTfit, that is an impressive list indeed! If I would have time I would probably walk caminos for 2 months a year ;-)

 

[Luka]

Yes!! Just booked my flight ticket! Arriving in Madrid on August 1st, leaving Madrid August 22nd. Caminovirus galore!

 

[grayland]

Consider taking the Sanabres instead of Astrorga if time allows.
Very different with some pretty neat walking. Nice Albergues for the most part.

 

[Luka]

The thing is, I have never been on the Francés...
Have been walking in solitude most of my camino time until now. Starting in Amsterdam, I walked in several stages (days, a week, several weeks) up to Le Puy en Velay. When I arrived in Le Puy I had a few days left and tried the GR65/Via Podiensis for 3 nights just to experience it. I was overwhelmed by the crowds and the facilities... I think about 50 to 60 pilgrims a day. and there was food and water everywhere.

One day I hope to find time to walk from Le Puy en Velay to Santiago at once. Because of the crowds on the stage Le Puy en Velay - SJPDP I might change my mind and walk the Via Lemovicencis (Vézelay - SJPDP) instead. To get an idea of what is awaiting me on the Francés, I would like to experience the crowds there as well for a few days. When the day is there that I have found about 3 months of time, I'll decide to walk either the Francés (with an escape at the end via the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada) or the Norte if I can't stand the crowds.

My conclusion until now: the Via de la Plata is perfect! I walked from Sevilla to Aldeanueava del Camino in May last year and loved it. It wasn't solitude, it wasn't carrying food for two days, it wasn't having to sleep in the strangest places by lack of albergues. But there weren't crowds or a touristy scenery either! I was walking with about 20 to 25 other pilgrims and at the end of the day there was always a place to fill my stomach and to lay my head.

Long story short: I would prefer to walk to Astorga to experience the crowds on the Francés for a few days, so I can make op my mind for my Big Journey in the unknown future ;-)

 

[grayland]

I did not realize that you had not been on the CF. It makes sense to go on the Astorga route.

I walked the LePuy route in 2012 and arrived in SJPdP on May 1st. Not crowded at all. There were other Pilgrims but was alone during the day most of the time unless intentionally walking with someone. Nothing like the CF.

 

[Luka]

The CF is going to overwhelm me for sure... Especially because I'll arrive in Astorga in peak season...
Why is August still so far away?

 

[Luka]

August is coming closer! Four weeks from now I hope to have walked my first stage from Aldeanueva del Camino!

 

[Luka]

Strange... I am getting nervous. I am leaving for Madrid in 3 days. It is the 4th time I'll be doing a few weeks' hike/pilgrimage all by myself. I love it, have looked forward to it for months and now I get nervous...

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, Luka. Being nervous is just a mandatory pre-Camino sensation. I've been doing this for more than a decade and I am nervous/anxious every single year. You know that all you have to do is take your first step and then all those feelings melt away.

Looking forward to hearing how it goes, enjoy! Laurie

 

[Luka]

Thanks, Laurie! I know you are right. And I still am looking forward to my first step at the same time. Allthough I just saw that my first 10 kms or so (from Aldeanueva to Baños de Montemayor) are on the N-630...

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola Luka - when you reach Merida take a rest day and see the old Roman city ruins - you can get a daily pass to see all the sites. Check the tourist office.
The Camino from Merida to Caceres/Galisteo is a bit isolated. Just remember to carry enough water for each day. Oh BTW most of the Albergues charge a fee - I think it was E10 - although the one in Casar de Caceres is free and thankfully the town hall clock stops chiming after midnight. Buen Camino

 

[Luka]

Thanks Saint Mike! I did the first part of the Via de la Plata last year, so am already past Mérida and Cáceres. I indeed spent an extra night in Mérida!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Hi Luka,
Have a wonderful camino. I’ll be way behind you starting in Sevilla on the 7th Sept (not too long now). It will be my second time doing the VdlP.
If you have a bit of spare time before starting in Baños, take a liittle trip out to the town of Hervas - it’s really gorgeous. I actually walked there from Aldeanueva last time but I see you have already dont that bit.
You can probably hop on a bus.
Buen Camino, Grace

 

[Luka]

Thanks for the advice Grace!
Greetings from Madrid. Nerves have gone, just looking forward to my first steps ;-)

 

[peregrina2000]

Keep in touch, Luka, and buen camino! Laurie

 

[Luka]

Wonderful Aldeanueva albergue all to myself. I guess I am the only lunatic walking in August...

 

[grayland]

I know the feeling of being the only one walking in August. People on the CF whining and crying about crowds and you are all alone in the albergues.
Hopefully it is not as hot this year for you.

I found it started cooling a bit after Salamanca...still hot but the soles of your shoes will not melt on the asphalt.

Buen Camino Amiga.

 

[andy.d]

Go well Luka. I spent September on the Levante on my own a few years ago. It was tough but also one of the best things I have done

Andy

 

[krazeekuban]

:shock:
I am leaving in a couple of days for Seville to start on an August VdlP :shock:
(I do know about the heat)
I will try to post on this thread from time to time if my iPhone does not melt.

Buen Camino Amigo! Walk safely

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Wonderful Aldeanueva albergue all to myself. I guess I am the only lunatic walking in August...

Luka I'm thinking of you and your camino. What's the weather like? Only a month until I head off. Nerves starting to heat up . Bless, grace


Sent from my iPhone using Camino de Santiago Forum

 

[Luka]

Thanks amigos, for walking with me. I am in San Pedro de Rozados now. Albergue Marie Carmen (Carreras VII) is temporary closed (didn't listen well enough to understand the reason), but the bar/restaurant is open. Am enjoying una caña and using their wifi right now. So I am staying in Los Miliarios instead. Dark place, a bit cramped. They are charging 10 euros though, which seems a bit too much. Whatever, happy with a bed after 29 kms of walking.

Weather? Brilliant (from my perspective). Has been sunny and about 27 degrees. Tomorrow going up till 31/32, and that is a bit too brilliant...

 

[Luka]

And yes, being alone always seems to have two sides. I too have a few of my best memories of lonesome walking. I always 'grow' in those periods, but the awareness normally comes later. The thing is, I haven't been completely alone. As well as in La Calzada de Béjar as in Fuenterroble I shared the albergue with Spanish peregrinos on bikes. Also one Spanish pilgrim on foot, but I haven't seen him today yet. I think he liked the company in Fuenterroble too much. He was complaining about having been on his own for four days. It was nice to meet other pilgrims, but a bit exhausting having to communicate in Spanish all the time. The hospitalero in Fuenterroble was wonderful though!

 

[Luka]

Wow, I now see that you adjusted the name of this thread!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Thanks so much for making the effort to post, Luka. You are bringing my next camino so much closer. I am loving your ‘live’ posts.
Have an awesome day, xGrace

 

[Luka]

My pleasure! Unfortunately I am blogging in Dutch, but you can still 'read' the pictures:
Vansevillanaarsantiago.wordpress.com

 

[Luka]

For several reasons I decided to catch a bus from Salamanca to Zamora. The albergue in Zamora is wonderful. Had dinner with 3 very nice French hospitaleras and a Spaniard on a bike. There were about 8 other peregrinos. Half of them on bikes and all but one male and Spanish.

Walked to Montamarta today. Boring stretch to be honest. I am staying at Casa Rural El Bruñedo for 20 euro's (3 for laundry). Neat place, but the N630 next to it, no outdoors and a tiny village. So the owner of the casa rural gave me a lift back to Zamora. I am enjoying a hot afternoon here and then will get the bus back to Montamarta.

 

[Luka]

Wrote about the casa rural in Montamarta in another thread. The lady is very kind, but her husband... Wouldn't recommend this place for women walking alone...

Obras were not a big problem. Maybe because I walked there on Saturday and Sunday. The markers were good. It is still not the most scenic part of the VdlP though.

Yesterday I stayed in the albergue in Granja de Moreruela. Was fine (5 euros), but no kitchen. I shared the place with two couples (Spanish and Italian). Together we booked a little excursion to the ruins of an old monastery nearby. Recommendable! You can find the phonenumber in the albergue.

The albergue where I am staying tonight (Benavente) is wonderful! Its at the old trainstation (4 euros). The only thing is: you have to get the key at the oficina de tourismo, best is to be there before 2 PM.

 

[grayland]

I am sure that you have a lot of people following along with you again.
Sorry about the idiot at the Casa Rural.
Next time call his wife or tell her in the morning.

 

[Luka]

Sorry guys, I changed my plans a bit. Decided to take a bus to Leon today and continue on the Frances for the nine days of walking I have left. Instead of walking to Astorga in 3 days on the VdlP, will have one travel/restday in Leon and then walk to Astorga on the Frances.

Reasons? I don't enjoy solitude as much as most of the times. After a week of walking I keep on feeling restless. The idea of just walking 22 kms today (mostly roadwalk), arriving in another tiny village around noon and having to spend another long day there just didn't appeal to me. Another reason is big curiosity about the Frances. Will be my first time. Read so much about it on this forum and now want to experience it myself. Crowds gonna be a shock, I guess...

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Reasons? I don't enjoy solitude as much as most of the times.

Everyone has a unique attitude toward walking alone, but I share yours. I can get plenty of solitude surrounded by pilgrims, and they really are the camino to me. I don't bother to compete for beds with them, so I rarely view them as obstacles. So I say, "good choice." Have fun, and buen camino.

 

[Luka]

Thanks Falcon, I just checked in to Unamuno Albergue. The sun is shining, big smile on my face.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Luka!
I just returned to the forum having been pretty much off all spring and summer.
I was so happy to see you had returned to walk more on the VDLP!
I'm going to go look at your photos now!
Hooray!

 

[Luka]

I deserted the VdlP 3 days before Astorga to get my first Francés experience. I will certainly walk the VdlP again, but then probably in 'peak season' again so I won't be the only pilgrim apart from some Spanish bikers.

 

[Dutch]

Hi Luka, just curious, how did you like the Frances compared to Vdlp? Of course quiet vs crowded, but anythimg else?

 

[Luka]

I have only been on the Frances for 8 days (Leon - Sarria), so my experience is limited. I found them more or less equally scenic. They both have very beautiful parts and roadwalking as well. I think all the differences are a result of the difference in crowds:
- The VdlP is a little bit less well marked (to me it seems very hard to get lost on the Frances)
- When roadwalking on the VdlP you are mostly walking on the shoulder of the road, while on the Frances they made a little path next to the road
- A lot of stages you have to carry food and water for the whole day (no bocadillos and coffee every 5k)
- When I walked into a village on the VdlP people were greeting me and I could never walk around anonymously (especially in August)
- No bed races, most albergues without hospitaleros, always the lower bunkbed, sometimes no albergue at all
- No adjusted opening times (evening meal for example was normally not available before 8.30/9.00 PM)
- People speak Spanish and only Spanish

 

[LTfit]

I too have been away from the forum (about 6 months!) and it has been nice reading through your reports.
You are probably home by now so good luck with the re-entry back in NL.