Camino Portuguese questions for solo traveler

[TKrene]

I finished the Camino Frances this April and am currently planning to do the Portuguese route next May but had a few questions.

1) can I send my bags ahead to Santiago similar to what I did while in Spain? (I have a follow-on trip planned)
2) as a solo woman traveler is the coastal route (from Porto) marked well or should I concentrate on the inland route?
3) does the Coastal Route have pilgrim albuergues to stay in or are they primarily on the inland route?
4) The Brierley book for the Camino Portuguese coastal route is very sparse on information, does anyone know of any better guide books for the coastal route?
5) Is the route safe for a single woman traveler?

I am very excited to get back on the trail but usually just try to be flexible with my "stages" but also don't want to find that I don't have very many options for places to stop/stay.

Thanks, Teri

 

[Stripey Socks]

Hi Teri.
I walked solo from Lisbon to SdC in May/June this year. Other than the settling in days in the beginning, I felt relaxed and safe the whole time.

I am not sure that there is a baggage transport service from Lisbon but I am pretty sure I have read posts on this forum about a couple of services from Porto northwards.

I walked the Coastal route from Porto, up to Caminha and then up the river to Valenca/Tui. It was well marked 99.9% of the time. I had an old version of Brierly but also used the caminador.es maps. The Coastal route is gorgeous but I can't compare it with the inland route. If I had my time again, I would do the coastal route all the way.

The Coastal route has some albergues but the youth hostels are also a good option and they have a pilgrims discount. You do not have to be a member to stay there. Just book direct to access the pilgrim rates. I stayed in two and they were very comfortable and included breakfast (Euro 9 I think). I think more albergues are coming on line all the time and I stumbled across some that were newly opened but not promoted anywhere.

I have written a few blog posts which may be of use to your planning: https://melsonebigadventure.wordpress.com/tag/camino-portuguese/

Bom Caminho
Mel

 

[Stripey Socks]

Sorry - I understand the newer versions of the Brierley guide has better information about the Coastal route but I haven't seen one personally.

 

[Rainerbernd]

I finished the Camino Frances this April and am currently planning to do the Portuguese route next May but had a few questions.

1) can I send my bags ahead to Santiago similar to what I did while in Spain? (I have a follow-on trip planned)
2) as a solo woman traveler is the coastal route (from Porto) marked well or should I concentrate on the inland route?
3) does the Coastal Route have pilgrim albuergues to stay in or are they primarily on the inland route?
4) The Brierley book for the Camino Portuguese coastal route is very sparse on information, does anyone know of any better guide books for the coastal route?
5) Is the route safe for a single woman traveler?

I am very excited to get back on the trail but usually just try to be flexible with my "stages" but also don't want to find that I don't have very many options for places to stop/stay.

Thanks, Teri

Olá Teri, sending bags ahead, please check:

http://www.casaivar.com/luggage-storage-in-santiago-de-compostela/index.html

If your first stay will be in Angeiras, I can give you there all the informations you need. In May I stay there for hospitaleiro. Thanks @Stripey Socks - you described the Coastal Route very well. All routes are 99.9% marked.

Bom caminho , Rainer

 

[Ko.Z]

Olá Teri, sending bags ahead, please check:

http://www.casaivar.com/luggage-storage-in-santiago-de-compostela/index.html

If your first stay will be in Angeiras, I can give you there all the informations you need. In May I stay there for hospitaleiro. Thanks @Stripey Socks - you described the Coastal Route very well. All routes are 99.9% marked.

Bom caminho , Rainer

Hi Rainer
Following this thread, I think am already convinced that I will do the CP in April 2017. I am compiling various suggestions, places to stay/eat, etc. You got me interested stopping in Angeiras. Is that just out of Porto? Can you also provide me with those informations you mentioned? I am already looking forward to my Camino next year even if I have to go SOLO! Cheers.

 

[Rainerbernd]

Hi Rainer
Following this thread, I think am already convinced that I will do the CP in April 2017. I am compiling various suggestions, places to stay/eat, etc. You got me interested stopping in Angeiras. Is that just out of Porto? Can you also provide me with those informations you mentioned? I am already looking forward to my Camino next year even if I have to go SOLO! Cheers.

Olá Ko,Z and welcome. First question: starting in Lisbon or in Porto? Starting in Lisbon, the camino is also well marked to Porto. Starting in Porto, there are two main routes to Santiago:

The Caminho Central:

Porto > Rates > Barcelos > Ponte de Lima > Rubiães > Valença > Porriño > Redondela > Pontevedra > Caldas de Reis > Padron > Teo > Santiago. There are more albergues between this stages.

The Caminho da Costa:

Porto > Angeiras > Vila do Conde > Povoa de Varzim > Viana do Castelo > Caminha >Mougas > Ramalosa > Redondela > Pontevedra ..... Padron ..... Santiago. In Pontevedra starts the Variante Espiritual leading to Padron.
http://www.caminosantiago.org/cpperegrino/caminos/caminover.asp?CaminoId=86

Most pilgrims starting in Porto take the way along the beautiful coast to the first stay in Angeiras. There you can stay in nice bungalows at the Orbitur campsite. Do not book on their website - you will get a pilgrim´s fare at the reception. 10 km ahead, in Vila do Conde, the way splits- along the coast (Caminho da Costa) or to Rates (Caminho Central).

Where to stay? Looking in John Brierley´s guide book, there are some many albergues and pensions in pleasant distances on all routes. On all Orbitur campsites along the coast you´ll get a pilgrim´s fare.

Eating is pretty cheap. A menu do dia / pilgrim´s menu costs you about 5 - 8 €. Normally a soup and bread, 1/2 litre of wine or a beer, a main course (fish or meat) and a coffee. I´m always looking at the black boards of the restaurants passing by.

Other informations, like the ferry Caminha will change. More Questions? Don´t hesitate to ask.

Bom caminho, Rainer

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I would not say that most people starting in Porto by the beach stay in Angeiras but it is an option, especially if you have started from the Cathedral and do not want to walk 30km to Vila do Conde. Another option is the Santiago albergue in Labruge a km or so later.

Another option, not to walk 30km to Vila do Conde is to walk from the Cathedral to Matoshinos, and the next day from Matoshinos to Vila do Conde. You can chose to spend the night in Matoshinos or, like I did, walk to Matoshinos and then take the metro (Mercado stop) back to Porto for the night, and take the metro again in the morning to Matoshinos to resume your walk.

Also, a word to the wise, their are 3 main routes from Porto: the coastal, the central and the interior. So to the OP, when you say coastal vs inland you need to specify which inland route.

 

[Rainerbernd]

I would not say that most people starting in Porto by the beach stay in Angeiras but it is an option, especially if you have started from the Cathedral and do not want to walk 30km to Vila do Conde. Another option is the Santiago albergue in Labruge a km or so later.

Another option, not to walk 30km to Vila do Conde is to walk from the Cathedral to Matoshinos, and the next day from Matoshinos to Vila do Conde. You can chose to spend the night in Matoshinos or, like I did, walk to Matoshinos and then take the metro (Mercado stop) back to Porto for the night, and take the metro again in the morning to Matoshinos to resume your walk.

Also, a word to the wise, their are 3 main routes from Porto: the coastal, the central and the interior. So to the OP, when you say coastal vs inland you need to specify which inland route.

Olá Anemone, I´m not shure we are talking about the same way - the interior. IMO the "Caminho Português do Interior" starts in Viseu, Lamego, Vila Real, Chaves, Verin, Ourense, Santiago.

Not talking about that part of the "old way" via Maia > Vilarinho and so on or that part via Vairão. Yes, there is a third way out of Porto, the Caminho de Braga, Porto > Famalicão > Braga > Ponte de Lima......

Btw, in and around Vila do Conde there are 4 albergues now:
http://www.cm-viladoconde.pt/pages/861

Bom caminho, Rainer

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Olá Anemone, I´m not shure we are talking about the same way - the interior. IMO the "Caminho Português do Interior" starts in Viseu, Lamego, Vila Real, Chaves, Verin, Ourense, Santiago.

Not talking about that part of the "old way" via Maia > Vilarinho and so on or that part via Vairão. Yes, there is a third way out of Porto, the Caminho de Braga, Porto > Famalicão > Braga > Ponte de Lima......

Btw, in and around Vila do Conde there are 4 albergues now:
http://www.cm-viladoconde.pt/pages/861

Bom caminho, Rainer

Now I'm comfused as the content of your posts refer to the Central (plus the option to walk the coast initially) and not the Interior. The OP does not say which of the inland Caminos she wants to do, the Central or Interior.

It seems to me that if thinking about along the beach after Porto the inland Caminho refered to must be the Central. Also if talking about Angeiras, one is talking about the Central as I cannot imagine someone starting on the coast to then nead to the Interior so far south.

 

[TKrene]

Thanks for the information. I did not know there were two "interior" routes out of Porto. But I was talking the coastal route and what I think is the central route. Also the baggage service I am interested in is shipping things ahead for Ivar to hold for me. I just wasnt sure if that was still feasible from Portugal. It was very easy from Barcelone when I did the Camino Frances and inexpensive. I will have a fairly large bag for my "post-Camino" trip.

 

[Rainerbernd]

Now I'm comfused as the content of your posts refer to the Central (plus the option to walk the coast initially) and not the Interior. The OP does not say which of the inland Caminos she wants to do, the Central or Interior.

It seems to me that if thinking about along the beach after Porto the inland Caminho refered to must be the Central. Also if talking about Angeiras, one is talking about the Central as I cannot imagine someone starting on the coast to then nead to the Interior so far south.

Olá Anemone, I hope to explain it correctly, but sorry, I think my English is a bit to week. Well, the problem is the two words inland (engl.) and interior (port.) are too close. Have I used the misleading word in this post?
You are right, the OP doesn´t say which camino she wants to do. My first question above was about starting in Lisboa or Porto? Therefore I only wrote about the two ways out of Porto - Caminho Central and Caminho da Costa. Allright, at the beginning one sentence about Lisboa-Porto. But that has also nothing to do with the Caminho Interior.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

You are right, my mistake. 2 routes out of Porto: Coastal and Cantral. Interior joins in Ponte de Lima.

 

[Rainerbernd]

You are right, my mistake. 2 routes out of Porto: Coastal and Cantral. Interior joins in Ponte de Lima.

No, Anemone, sorry the Caminho Interior doesn´t join in Ponte de Lima. It´s the Caminho de Braga that joins in Ponte de Lima. I think this special way is only in Portuguese publications and guide books, like the book of Sergio Fonseca in My Way Caminho Português de Santiago de Compostela. The Caminho Interior is far away from Porto and Ponte de Lima.

Btw, I hope to find some extra time to write about how to leave Porto by public transportation. I´ve done it recently in a german forum. There are so many options.

 

[Rainerbernd]

Thanks for the information. I did not know there were two "interior" routes out of Porto. But I was talking the coastal route and what I think is the central route. Also the baggage service I am interested in is shipping things ahead for Ivar to hold for me. I just wasnt sure if that was still feasible from Portugal. It was very easy from Barcelone when I did the Camino Frances and inexpensive. I will have a fairly large bag for my "post-Camino" trip.

Baggage service on the Portuguese ways is not difficult. Use TuiTrans: http://tuitrans.com/?lang=en for transportation stage by stage or send your large bag to Ivar. Some pilgrims have done it from Portugal.

As hospitaleiro in Angeiras we work with TuiTrans for stage by stage transport.

 

[TKrene]

Thanks for the information stripey socks. I did read your blog and that also provided me with a little bit more information that will be helpful. I am excited but just started my planning.

T

 

[Ko.Z]

Olá Ko,Z and welcome. First question: starting in Lisbon or in Porto? Starting in Lisbon, the camino is also well marked to Porto. Starting in Porto, there are two main routes to Santiago:

The Caminho Central:

Porto > Rates > Barcelos > Ponte de Lima > Rubiães > Valença > Porriño > Redondela > Pontevedra > Caldas de Reis > Padron > Teo > Santiago. There are more albergues between this stages.

The Caminho da Costa:

Porto > Angeiras > Vila do Conde > Povoa de Varzim > Viana do Castelo > Caminha >Mougas > Ramalosa > Redondela > Pontevedra ..... Padron ..... Santiago. In Pontevedra starts the Variante Espiritual leading to Padron.
http://www.caminosantiago.org/cpperegrino/caminos/caminover.asp?CaminoId=86

Most pilgrims starting in Porto take the way along the beautiful coast to the first stay in Angeiras. There you can stay in nice bungalows at the Orbitur campsite. Do not book on their website - you will get a pilgrim´s fare at the reception. 10 km ahead, in Vila do Conde, the way splits- along the coast (Caminho da Costa) or to Rates (Caminho Central).

Where to stay? Looking in John Brierley´s guide book, there are some many albergues and pensions in pleasant distances on all routes. On all Orbitur campsites along the coast you´ll get a pilgrim´s fare.

Eating is pretty cheap. A menu do dia / pilgrim´s menu costs you about 5 - 8 €. Normally a soup and bread, 1/2 litre of wine or a beer, a main course (fish or meat) and a coffee. I´m always looking at the black boards of the restaurants passing by.

Other informations, like the ferry Caminha will change. More Questions? Don´t hesitate to ask.

Bom caminho, Rainer

Hi Rainer
Thank you for your response and the details you've provided.
I will be flying into Lisbon but not keen on walking busy highways. I am planning a stop and start from Santarem, Tomar and other points until I get into Porto. From Porto I will follow Caminho da Costa, if weather permits, but will make a detour to Lugar do Corgo which I haven't worked out how to get there yet. Might need your expert advise on this part. I might continue on doing the interior or get back coastal way. What would you suggest? But all these might change depending on weather conditions when I start walking. Kind regards.

 

[Rainerbernd]

Hi Rainer
Thank you for your response and the details you've provided.
I will be flying into Lisbon but not keen on walking busy highways. I am planning a stop and start from Santarem, Tomar and other points until I get into Porto. From Porto I will follow Caminho da Costa, if weather permits, but will make a detour to Lugar do Corgo which I haven't worked out how to get there yet. Might need your expert advise on this part. I might continue on doing the interior or get back coastal way. What would you suggest? But all these might change depending on weather conditions when I start walking. Kind regards.

Olá., getting to Casa Fernanda, Lugar de Corgo is possible, but IMO only by bus. It´s far from the coastal way.
You can take the bus from Viana de Castelo to Balugães, only 3 km to Fernanda.
Link: http://www.transdev.pt/fotos/horarios/af_vbus1_braga-vianacastelo_a4_1511_1447240111.jpg

You can continue on doing the Central (not the Interior) or going back by bus.

Bom caminho, Rainer

 

[Anemone del Camino]

No, Anemone, sorry the Caminho Interior doesn´t join in Ponte de Lima. It´s the Caminho de Braga that joins in Ponte de Lima. I think this special way is only in Portuguese publications and guide books, like the book of Sergio Fonseca in My Way Caminho Português de Santiago de Compostela. The Caminho Interior is far away from Porto and Ponte de Lima.

.

Funny, I could have sworn Brierley shows an arm of the Interior joining in at Ponte de Lima while another heads further inland. And I just checked, he does. It goes to Braga, and from there Ponte de Lima. Is he wrong? I have a 2016 edition. Does anyone know what the 2017 version says?

 

[Rainerbernd]

Funny, I could have sworn Brierley shows an arm of the Interior joining in at Ponte de Lima while another heads further inland. And I just checked, he does. It goes to Braga, and from there Ponte de Lima. Is he wrong? I have a 2016 edition. Does anyone know what the 2017 version says?

Olá Anemone, that´s funny, grande confusão! I can´t check it yet, because I gave my Brierley to a friend. John may not be wrong, but that arm , under the name Caminho Interior is not in the german, french or portuguese guide books I have on my desk. There the Caminho Interior is not connected neither to Ponte de Lima nor to Braga.

Maybe I got a solution. I presume John describes that part from Braga to Ponte de Lima under an incorrect name.
Please have a look:http://caminosantiago.usal.es/torres/?page_id=8
From Ponte de Lima then it´s the Central Way.

The Portuguese and others, call the following way Caminho Interior:

http://www.caminhosantiagoviana.pt/caminhointerior.html

 

[Ko.Z]

Olá., getting to Casa Fernanda, Lugar de Corgo is possible, but IMO only by bus. It´s far from the coastal way.
You can take the bus from Viana de Castelo to Balugães, only 3 km to Fernanda.
Link: http://www.transdev.pt/fotos/horarios/af_vbus1_braga-vianacastelo_a4_1511_1447240111.jpg

You can continue on doing the Central (not the Interior) or going back by bus.

Bom caminho, Rainer

Obrigado, Rainer! (First Portugues word I've learned and will be using all the time!!!)
You have been so helpful and generous of your time answering all our queries and for the timetable.
My Camino stages are already taking shape and can hardly wait to take my first step.
Kind regards. Ko.Z

 

[Michael Caleigh]

Interesting thread. I just received my Bierley 2017 edition as I will be doing the Portugues in May 2017. I start in Porto. Will look tonight when I get home about the stages he mentions.

Buen Camino

 

[Camembert]

Olá., getting to Casa Fernanda, Lugar de Corgo is possible, but IMO only by bus. It´s far from the coastal way.
You can take the bus from Viana de Castelo to Balugães, only 3 km to Fernanda.
Link: http://www.transdev.pt/fotos/horarios/af_vbus1_braga-vianacastelo_a4_1511_1447240111.jpg

You can continue on doing the Central (not the Interior) or going back by bus.

Bom caminho, Rainer

There is a train connection from Viana do Castelo to the village of Barroselos ( this is NOT the town of Barcelos !) It is a walk of 7 kms from there to Fernanda. The bus indeed is another option. It stops in Balugães and from there you follow the yellow waymarkers to Casa Fernanda which is on the Caminho after indeed as Rainerbernd says about 3 kms. Casa Fernanda is in the village of Vitorino de Piães.her address Rua do Outeira 547. 4990-823 Vitorino de Piães .phone +351 914 589 521. Handy if you should choose for a taxi .

Ps if pilgrims know Fernanda and want to surprise her with a birthday greeting, send her a birthday card . Her birthday is on the 31st of October coming.

 

[Ko.Z]

There is a train connection from Viana do Castelo to the village of Barroselos ( this is NOT the town of Barcelos !) It is a walk of 7 kms from there to Fernanda. The bus indeed is another option. It stops in Balugães and from there you follow the yellow waymarkers to Casa Fernanda which is on the Caminho after indeed as Rainerbernd says about 3 kms. Casa Fernanda is in the village of Vitorino de Piães.her address Rua do Outeira 547. 4990-823 Vitorino de Piães .phone +351 914 589 521. Handy if you should choose for a taxi .

Ps if pilgrims know Fernanda and want to surprise her with a birthday greeting, send her a birthday card . Her birthday is on the 31st of October coming.

Hi Albertinho,
Thank you for providing another option of getting to Casa Fernanda and for the address and ph#. It is handy to have info on hand if something doesn't work out as planned. Cheers.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

And remember this fabulous newly updated guidebook available to download right here on the forum for a donation:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...mino-portugués-–-porto-to-santiago-2017.124/

 

[Penny Kingma]

Interesting thread. I just received my Bierley 2017 edition as I will be doing the Portugues in May 2017. I start in Porto. Will look tonight when I get home about the stages he mentions.

Buen Camino

I'm waiting on mine on its way. Something for me to read, dream and plan as my hip heals. I look forward to following your travels.

 

[laineylainey]

I walked alone in Sept and can only say that it is a wonderful walk for anyone whether alone or with a companion. I walked the coastal route and have posted a bit about my experience on the forum about it and perhaps it will add to what has already been posted.
Good luck and enjoy!

 

[KariC]

I

Thanks for the information. I did not know there were two "interior" routes out of Porto. But I was talking the coastal route and what I think is the central route. Also the baggage service I am interested in is shipping things ahead for Ivar to hold for me. I just wasnt sure if that was still feasible from Portugal. It was very easy from Barcelone when I did the Camino Frances and inexpensive. I will have a fairly large bag for my "post-Camino" trip.

I considered sending some things from Porto to Santiago, and learned that it would be more expensive and slower sending across a border, but that it certainly can be done. I ended up not packing the extra things that I was considering for my post-walk days in Europe (right decision for me!) but it certainly would have been possible.

 

[KariC]

As far as your question about safety - absolutely! I traveled "alone" from Porto to Santiago, and met many, many other women also hiking alone. Of course, one is rarely really alone on the Camino. It felt absolutely safe to me.

 

[TKrene]

I

I considered sending some things from Porto to Santiago, and learned that it would be more expensive and slower sending across a border, but that it certainly can be done. I ended up not packing the extra things that I was considering for my post-walk days in Europe (right decision for me!) but it certainly would have been possible.

Sadly I will need to bring along a wheeled bag as I am planning an additional month in Europe so I will contact Ivar and see if he knows a cheaper way.

Thanks.