LIVE from the Camino Camino Sanabres 2024

[JamesGeier]

Last year I started the Via de la Plata in Seville with my friend Tom from Sydney whom I met at a yoga studio in Chiang Mai, Thailand. We and his girlfriend Julie walked the Camino Frances my second time, their first time in the autumn of 2017. With the pandemic dehind us and both Tom and I recently retired, we set out from Seville the day after Easter and a week of Semana Santa celebrations. By Granja De Moreruela, I had developed severe tendonitis in my lower left leg, and with the pain worsening every say I stopped.

After arriving home early, disappointed and frustrated that I was not able to finish, I decided to return and finish this spring. My brother-in-law and a close friend of his joined me, we met in Madrid, then started walking in Zamora on May 2 (east train access from Madrid to Zamora).

We are now in A Guidina (this particular keyboard does not let me easily add the accents, so please forgive me), having gotten over the longest and highest point on the Sanabres yesterday. We have been using the Wise Pilgrim app and Gerald Kelley's notes, but mostly just follow the yellow arrows. That is leading us to a good bit of frustration, especially yesterday and today. Yesterday was Puebla de Sanabres to Lubian. Even Gerald Kelley noted to watch out for conflicting arrows. But he does not indication which to actually take. And the Wise Pilgrim route is not at all the same as following the yellow arrows. There was one point where there were not one, not two, but three yellow arrows (one was a monument waymarker) saying to go right, so we did. We saw some more yellow arrows going down to Aciberos, then they disappeared completely.

We are completely aware that there were many differing and changing detours while the high-speed rail was being constructed. That is now complete, so we were hoping for a fairly clear route over the mountain. No such luck.

After not seeing arrows for close to an hour, and too many unknowns ahead, we backtracked to the intersection with the three arrows. Wise Pilgrim says to go left here (?!?!), so we followed Wise Pilgrim's route and eventually got to Lubian. While following Wise Pilgrim's route from this intersection, there were NO yellow arrows, not a single one, except signs advertising Casa Irene in Lubian. All of the backtracking added about 5 kilometers of mostly uphill climbing making for a very frustrating and tiring day.

And today, following the yellow arrows as we approached A Guidina took us off Wise Pilgrim's route. We do not know this area - should we trust Wise Pilgrim or trust the yellow arrows and waymarkers? This has become the Camino de Frustration. With the AVE construction well completed, can Wise Pilgrim, Gerald Kelley, and the people who paint the yellow arrows and place the granite waymarkers please, please get in synch? Or is this just asking the impossible?

I don't get it. I was hoping to follow a known route. Having to often guess where to go is not facilitating an atmosphere of reflection as we make this pilgrimage walk across Spain.

Buen Camino!
--james--

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

James, I haven't walked the Sanabres, but can appreciate your frustration. If you've got good internet where you are right now, perhaps consider downloading mapy.cz .
Many of us here on the forum use it and it is an exceptionally good backup when all else fails. (I actually do not use Wise Pilgrim etc just mapy.cz) At the very least it would have let you know whether you could safely continue or should have turned back.

Hope you have a better day tomorrow!

 

[Madamjoy]

Last year I started the Via de la Plata in Seville with my friend Tom from Sydney whom I met at a yoga studio in Chiang Mai, Thailand. We and his girlfriend Julie walked the Camino Frances my second time, their first time in the autumn of 2017. With the pandemic dehind us and both Tom and I recently retired, we set out from Seville the day after Easter and a week of Semana Santa celebrations. By Granja De Moreruela, I had developed severe tendonitis in my lower left leg, and with the pain worsening every say I stopped.

After arriving home early, disappointed and frustrated that I was not able to finish, I decided to return and finish this spring. My brother-in-law and a close friend of his joined me, we met in Madrid, then started walking in Zamora on May 2 (east train access from Madrid to Zamora).

We are now in A Guidina (this particular keyboard does not let me easily add the accents, so please forgive me), having gotten over the longest and highest point on the Sanabres yesterday. We have been using the Wise Pilgrim app and Gerald Kelley's notes, but mostly just follow the yellow arrows. That is leading us to a good bit of frustration, especially yesterday and today. Yesterday was Puebla de Sanabres to Lubian. Even Gerald Kelley noted to watch out for conflicting arrows. But he does not indication which to actually take. And the Wise Pilgrim route is not at all the same as following the yellow arrows. There was one point where there were not one, not two, but three yellow arrows (one was a monument waymarker) saying to go right, so we did. We saw some more yellow arrows going down to Aciberos, then they disappeared completely.

We are completely aware that there were many differing and changing detours while the high-speed rail was being constructed. That is now complete, so we were hoping for a fairly clear route over the mountain. No such luck.

After not seeing arrows for close to an hour, and too many unknowns ahead, we backtracked to the intersection with the three arrows. Wise Pilgrim says to go left here (?!?!), so we followed Wise Pilgrim's route and eventually got to Lubian. While following Wise Pilgrim's route from this intersection, there were NO yellow arrows, not a single one, except signs advertising Casa Irene in Lubian. All of the backtracking added about 5 kilometers of mostly uphill climbing making for a very frustrating and tiring day.

And today, following the yellow arrows as we approached A Guidina took us off Wise Pilgrim's route. We do not know this area - should we trust Wise Pilgrim or trust the yellow arrows and waymarkers? This has become the Camino de Frustration. With the AVE construction well completed, can Wise Pilgrim, Gerald Kelley, and the people who paint the yellow arrows and place the granite waymarkers please, please get in synch? Or is this just asking the impossible?

I don't get it. I was hoping to follow a known route. Having to often guess where to go is not facilitating an atmosphere of reflection as we make this pilgrimage walk across Spain.

Buen Camino!
--james--

I walked from Sevilla last April (same time as your first attempt). Some times the yellow arrows were confusing. In cases such as you described I opted to follow wise pilgrim route and I also had maps that I download the night before when I have wifi access so I can compare. I found Wise Pilgrim was more reliable than the arrows.

 

[geraldkelly]

Hi James

I walked this route less than a year ago and updated the walking notes in my guide to include the two places you mention, the now restored path through Aciberos and that small route change before A Gudiña. My apps are also up-to-date for both of these places, including the maps.

The reference to "contradictory signs" refers to when you reach the pass. There's a problem there but it's not a serious one because whichever way you follow you end up in Padornelo. Hopefully the Amigos will fix this in the near future.

When I walked through Aciberos last year I don't recall navigating being a problem but I had the advantage of having walked this way on several occasions so obviously I'm more familiar with it.

I realise you're trying to be helpful but my route notes and maps (apps and printed guide and the free guide which I presume is the one you're using) are up-to-date for both of the places you mentioned. So, please do me a favour and check your facts before publicly criticising my work.

And my name is Kelly, not Kelley.
All the best and Buen Camino!
Gerald

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I have just completed the Sanabres from Rionegro del Puente with my son. He uses a combination of Gronze and Google maps and I do not recall us having problems at any of the stages you mention. We typically followed the Mojones.

 

[Rita Flower]

I used Gerald’s guide and the Camino Ninja app in 2022 and it was fine.
It’s a complete puzzlement as to what happened to you.
These days I try and look at the sorts of experiences you had as God’s practical joke. This makes me laugh, lightens my mood and helps me to maintain some equanimity.
As I read recently - the Camino provides, but not always in ways I prefer.
Hope it goes smoothly from now on.
Blessings and Buen Camino

 

[Jan Jones]

I walked this route last month in the snow so the way up to the pass was tough and markers hard to see.
I didn’t have too many problems with arrows and markers on the Sanabres but I do tend to get lost in the solitude and pleasure of walking - so in order to avoid missed arrows and backtracking I used downloaded wikilooc trails (as well as Graham’s guide and Wise Pilgrim. ) . This meant I could put my phone in my pocket and walk comfortably knowing that if I strayed off the trail my phone would beep to alert me .
I got badly lost on the Norte once- it wasn’t fun so I feel your pain.

 

[happymarkos]

Last year I started the Via de la Plata in Seville with my friend Tom from Sydney whom I met at a yoga studio in Chiang Mai, Thailand. We and his girlfriend Julie walked the Camino Frances my second time, their first time in the autumn of 2017. With the pandemic dehind us and both Tom and I recently retired, we set out from Seville the day after Easter and a week of Semana Santa celebrations. By Granja De Moreruela, I had developed severe tendonitis in my lower left leg, and with the pain worsening every say I stopped.

After arriving home early, disappointed and frustrated that I was not able to finish, I decided to return and finish this spring. My brother-in-law and a close friend of his joined me, we met in Madrid, then started walking in Zamora on May 2 (east train access from Madrid to Zamora).

We are now in A Guidina (this particular keyboard does not let me easily add the accents, so please forgive me), having gotten over the longest and highest point on the Sanabres yesterday. We have been using the Wise Pilgrim app and Gerald Kelley's notes, but mostly just follow the yellow arrows. That is leading us to a good bit of frustration, especially yesterday and today. Yesterday was Puebla de Sanabres to Lubian. Even Gerald Kelley noted to watch out for conflicting arrows. But he does not indication which to actually take. And the Wise Pilgrim route is not at all the same as following the yellow arrows. There was one point where there were not one, not two, but three yellow arrows (one was a monument waymarker) saying to go right, so we did. We saw some more yellow arrows going down to Aciberos, then they disappeared completely.

We are completely aware that there were many differing and changing detours while the high-speed rail was being constructed. That is now complete, so we were hoping for a fairly clear route over the mountain. No such luck.

After not seeing arrows for close to an hour, and too many unknowns ahead, we backtracked to the intersection with the three arrows. Wise Pilgrim says to go left here (?!?!), so we followed Wise Pilgrim's route and eventually got to Lubian. While following Wise Pilgrim's route from this intersection, there were NO yellow arrows, not a single one, except signs advertising Casa Irene in Lubian. All of the backtracking added about 5 kilometers of mostly uphill climbing making for a very frustrating and tiring day.

And today, following the yellow arrows as we approached A Guidina took us off Wise Pilgrim's route. We do not know this area - should we trust Wise Pilgrim or trust the yellow arrows and waymarkers? This has become the Camino de Frustration. With the AVE construction well completed, can Wise Pilgrim, Gerald Kelley, and the people who paint the yellow arrows and place the granite waymarkers please, please get in synch? Or is this just asking the impossible?

I don't get it. I was hoping to follow a known route. Having to often guess where to go is not facilitating an atmosphere of reflection as we make this pilgrimage walk across Spain.

Buen Camino!
--james--

 

[JamesGeier]

To Gerald Kelly,
First, my apologies for misspelling your last name. I have your app, and have contributed to you in some way in the past because while the app is "free," I think developers of useful apps deserve to be compensated. I bought your actual guidebooks before my first pilgrimage walk on the Camino Frances in 2016.
Second, my brother-in-law figured out how to get to the profile and map sections of your app -- it is so easy, I'm embarassed to reveal that I did not figure that out earlier. Nevertheless, we now have even more information with which to continue our pilgrimage walk. Today to Laza.
Third, how can I re-up or whatever my purchase of the app? Even without knowing how to see the map and elevation profiles, your notes on the stages and towns have been invaluable. Now knowing how to really use your app, it is even more valuable and I want to contribute.

My brother-in-law, his friend, and I are really enjoying our walk on the Camino Sanabres. It is quite the contrast from my walk last year on the Via de la Plata from Seville to Granja de Moreruela. We are loving the beautiful vistas and the walk itself.

Thank-you Mr. Kelly, thank-you Camino Forum.
Buen Camino,
--james--

 

[geraldkelly]

To Gerald Kelly,
First, my apologies for misspelling your last name. I have your app, and have contributed to you in some way in the past because while the app is "free," I think developers of useful apps deserve to be compensated. I bought your actual guidebooks before my first pilgrimage walk on the Camino Frances in 2016.
Second, my brother-in-law figured out how to get to the profile and map sections of your app -- it is so easy, I'm embarassed to reveal that I did not figure that out earlier. Nevertheless, we now have even more information with which to continue our pilgrimage walk. Today to Laza.
Third, how can I re-up or whatever my purchase of the app? Even without knowing how to see the map and elevation profiles, your notes on the stages and towns have been invaluable. Now knowing how to really use your app, it is even more valuable and I want to contribute.

My brother-in-law, his friend, and I are really enjoying our walk on the Camino Sanabres. It is quite the contrast from my walk last year on the Via de la Plata from Seville to Granja de Moreruela. We are loving the beautiful vistas and the walk itself.

Thank-you Mr. Kelly, thank-you Camino Forum.
Buen Camino,
--james--

Hi James

Thank you for your most gracious reply. I'm glad to hear you found the button for the maps, etc. Maybe I need to make them bigger?

I always welcome donations on my website if you're feeling generous! https://www.viadelaplataguide.net/

Yes, the Sanabrés is very different from everything that went before. I hope the weather is good and that you can actually see the scenery. It was snowing a couple of weeks ago. If you need any help or advice just post on here, I always try to reply to questions about this Camino.

Buen Camino!
Gerald

 

[JamesGeier]

We walked today under cloudy, threatening skies from Laza up the long, steep, unstable climb to Albegueria. Gerald Kelly's notes say that the famous bar where you can sign your name to a shell is closed on Monday, and we were hoping he was wrong...alas, he was correct, as with pretty much everything. The bar was closed on Monday and the small town seemed deserted. Then the rain came, not too hard, and we continued the uphill climb. At about the top, the rain lessened, and the walk down the fairly steep decline was also a challenge. Vilar de Barrio was our destination, and we are staying in a pension. The town is quiet and basically closed on Monday, just as many small towns are both Sunday and Monday. Fortunately, the Claudio Supermercado was open (16:00 - 20:00) so we are stocked up for dinner.

Rain, clouds, or shine, the Camino Sanabres is stunningly beautiful. The vistas on the long downhill from Campobecerros to Laza, and today while climbing the long, steep mountain road (is it really a road?) were stunning. Every day, I am reminded of how beautiful Spain is, from Seville all the way to Salamanca, and on up to Zamora, then northwest to the end of Castille y Leon and into Galicia. Every day a new beautiful scene unfolds, even while sweating up a long climb. It is so, so uplifting.

Buen Camino!
--james--

 

[Luka]

Buen Camino! I will be walking 2 stages behind you. Tomorrow to Laza.

 

[JamesGeier]

Walked a short day today from Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueiro de Ambia partly in the rain. Gerald Kelly's notes caution about the difficult and treacherous downhill before Xunqueiro de Ambia. It is difficult and slippery, especially after the rain. Every day brings beautiful vistas. Negotiating some muddy sections are a challenge, and the views are more than worth the challenges. I'll post a couple of photos, many more are on my blog at http://www.jamesgeiercamino.wordpress.com/. Tomorrow we arrive in Ourense. Time for a haircut.

One thing I discovered and shared with my brother-in-law and his friend is Aquarius - we love it like so many other Camino veterens. I also like KAS a lot, too, lemon and orange.

Every day is something new, like most Camino adventures. We are loving the views, the walk, and interacting with people from all over...a Camino experience every day. But we are hoping for less and less rain.

 

[JamesGeier]

Walked to Ourense today. Still intermittent rain today and forecast for tomorrow. Much of the route today was along paved secondary roads, so firm footing and no mud. Galicia is beautiful.
Oddly, after we ended for the day, I can no longer open maps in Wise Pilgrim. I even deleted and downloaded the offline maps again. When I press the map icon, nothing happens. My brother-in-law and his friend with whom I am walking are not having the same problem. They are using I-phones and I use Android. I can open maps in Gerald Kelly's app. I suspect a setting, but I cannot find it. Anyone have an idea about what to do?
A couple of photos:

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I just finished the beautiful Sanabres less than a week ago. I am loving your pictures!

 

[J Willhaus]

Maybe check with Micheal @wisepilgrim on your map issue.

 

[JamesGeier]

Today we walked from Ourense to Cea. There are two routes, eastern and westers, Given the rather heavy rain the last few days and the warning that the easters route was prone to flooding and mud after rain, we shose the western route, wanting to minimize traversing mud. The long, steep, unrelenting climb out of Ourense after going through the short tunnel under the non-electric train line was memorable! Wow! What a climb! We made it, and even though there was plenty of muddy natural paths, there were enough stones/rocks to allow us to avoid getting completely wet.Galicia is wet, green, and beautiful. We are hoping the weather might clear a bit in a day or two so we can walk the last couple of days into Santiago de Compostela in dry conditions. I've posted a few photos from today.
We are also loving what I am calling "folk art" Camino yellow arrows, carved onto rocks often with a blue shell and a blue or green gourd. We did not see these until more than half way through the Camino Sanabres. They are all different, and interesting. Curious about where they came from, and if they are also on other routes.
Buen Camino!
--james--

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi James, I just completed the Sanabres last Saturday (May 11th) and I posted a "Live on the Camino" thread each day. I also had a few days of intermittent rain, but also plenty of sunshine.
I took pictures of every stone art mojone I saw...61 in total!
Here is information about the artist, posted by @Elle Bieling, who researched it for her own blog...thanks, Elle!

 

[JamesGeier]

Today was a rainy, rainy, and rainy day walking the Camino Sanabres from Cea to Estacion de Lalin. And, as I have said a number of times, very beautiful in spite of the unseasonable rain. This was also a 32 kilometer day since our accomodation was 3.5 kkilometers south of Cea ina really nice casa rural. Thankfully, much less mud today in spite of the rain. We saw the last of the Nicanor Carballo carved stone waymarkers. Since they are only in the Ourense Province and we will be moving out of Ourense today, we bid goodbye to the whimsical, fun, and interesting waymarkers. Thank-you Nicanor Carballo - we love your waymerkers!
Attached are a few photos.
Buen Camino,
--james--

 

[JamesGeier]

Sunday 19 May we finally saw the sun part of the day walking from Silleda to Ponte Ulla. Another day of mostly natural paths, and well-drained soil/dirt, so little mud. As is so common on the Camino Sanabres, we saw very few pilgrims along the way, but met people we knew whenever we stopped for a break. Now that we are close to Santiago, there are a few more intermediate places to stop. In most of the Via de la Plata and the first half of the Camino Sanabres is was common to have no pueblos with services available from the starting point to the ending point. After Ourense, there are more places, and a second cafe con leche and/or piece of tortilla Espana is welcome.
A few photos, including the laundromat in the parking lot of the hostal in Ponte Ulla. Very cool, worked well.
Buen Camino,
--james--

 

[Camino Chrissy]

James, it looks like that l o n g downhill to Ponte Ulla didn't bother you at all. Possibly I am the only wuss whose knees were affected by that 10% grade that continued for 2.5k! Thankfully my knee is nearly recovered a full week later.

 

[JamesGeier]

Monday we arrived in Santiago de Compostela. I have completed the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabres in two stages after being interrupted by severe tendonitis a year ago at Granja de Moreruela. The approach to Santiago de Compostela from the Camino Sanabres is far, far different than coming into the city from the Camino Frances. There were two l-o-n-g and steep uphill stretches in the last 3 kilometers that as the saying in the U.S. goes, "really kicked our butts." But we made it. I'm so happy. All of the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabres was (as I have said far too many times) beautiful, even when it rained. We did not really care for walking in the rain, negotiating the mud, having wet and cold feet, but the scenery was stunning.

We arrived too late to go to the Pilgrim's Office, opting instead to attend the 5:30 Mass at the Cathedral.

Today after registering online yesterday, we went to the Pilgrim's Office at 8:45 and were out the door with Compostela and Distance Certificates in hand by 9:20. I told the cashier that this was my third Compostela, and she smiled and replied, "So we will see you again next year?" I'll not say no, but I do need to rest a bit first.

A few photos:

 

[JamesGeier]

James, it looks like that l o n g downhill to Ponte Ulla didn't bother you at all. Possibly I am the only wuss whose knees were affected by that 10% grade that continued for 2.5k! Thankfully my knee is nearly recovered a full week later.

It was bothersome, but we took it slow. Yes, it is hard on the knees. Hiking poles help. And the pilgrim's rest area just before the downhill started was a nice break. The lady who runs it deserves a medal!
--james--

 

[WalkingInGers]

I can’t wait to start walking from Algeciras.

 

[JustJack]

Hi James

Thank you for your most gracious reply. I'm glad to hear you found the button for the maps, etc. Maybe I need to make them bigger?

Place a button on the home screen that goes directly to the map. It's slightly annoying having to click into a particular section before being able to access the map button.

Second suggestion: when you have a cafe icon displaying on the map, have it include the business hours. Currently I have to go from your app to the Google maps app to check the opening hours.

I used both the Gronze map and your map last month on the VDLP and I found yours to be the superior user experience. I must admit I generally forgot to read the notes, but I used the map all day every day to confirm I was on the path. Many thanks!