Central route (I think?)

[timr]

I think I'm on the central route. There are a lot of similar parallel routes here in Portugal. Wow. It's terrific. Sunny for past four days with temp around 20. Apart from torrential thunderstorm Saturday afternoon in Porto.
Porto - fascinating city. Did the tourist bit for day and a half all on foot.
Then Littoral route as far as Angeiras - thanks for tip(@Rainerbernd ) Orbitur camping very good value and very friendly - yesterday, and today continued along beach boardwalks to Vila do Conde before turning right to head to Sao Andreo do Rates and the central route. About 10 in albergue tonight. Days not too short for walking, but a little short for drying.
Weather is amazing. People lovely. 'Everyone' speaks English. I have no Portuguese. Sardines cooked on coals on the beach. What more could you ask for? (@KinkyOne )
I did find some mud today (@NualaOC) but it was a job to find it!
I was hoping to find an alternative to wet cold dark Wicklow in November. I have!

 

[NualaOC]

That sounds fantastic, @timr, glad it's going so well for you. No mud? Hope you aren't tempting fate in that statement .....

 

[SYates]

Great you are having a good time! Buen Camino, SY

 

[dennisvrees]

Thanks for that Tim
I've only ever had sardines from a tin so this could be a time to learn. I'm planning to go along the coast from Porto next Easter and then in to Santiago. I'm ex UK and now In Australia and its good to hear language is not a problem as I had just started learning a little.
Enjoy!

 

[timr]

Thanks for that Tim
I've only ever had sardines from a tin so this could be a time to learn. I'm planning to go along the coast from Porto next Easter and then in to Santiago. I'm ex UK and now In Australia and its good to hear language is not a problem as I had just started learning a little.
Enjoy!

I always think every little bit of language learning is repaid tenfold, so don't stop! People really appreciate the effort. After greetings etc, I'd learn the names of different kinds of fish!
After Easter sounds lovely. Coast was very beautiful, though full of people, especially on Sunday. People, I should add, enjoying the 'St Martin's Summer' in their own country, which I do not begrudge. Cyclists, runners, inline skaters, skateboarders, surfers et al. I moved inland yesterday and it's beautiful farm land. Nice tracks, though the occasional foray onto quite narrow busy roads. I'm in Barcelos right now for lunch. Eating out in street in mid November is just wonderful!

 

[KinkyOne]

I always think every little bit of language learning is repaid tenfold, so don't stop! People really appreciate the effort. After greetings etc, I'd learn the names of different kinds of fish!
After Easter sounds lovely. Coast was very beautiful, though full of people, especially on Sunday. People, I should add, enjoying the 'St Martin's Summer' in their own country, which I do not begrudge. Cyclists, runners, inline skaters, skateboarders, surfers et al. I moved inland yesterday and it's beautiful farm land. Nice tracks, though the occasional foray onto quite narrow busy roads. I'm in Barcelos right now for lunch. Eating out in street in mid November is just wonderful!

Hi, Tim,
Enjoy that walk and the weather for all of us. Temps around zero and very gloomy here so I would be there in a heartbeat

 

[movinmaggie]

Making Portugues notes for 2018.......sounds like it's wonderful experience for you. Living in the Canadian Pacific Northwest, I can relate to the 'wet' part. Continued joyous journey.

 

[edumad]

A bit of mud may expect on the caminho from Barcelos onwards, but shouldn't be too bad, I hope the good weather hold for you.

 

[timr]

Hi, Tim,
Enjoy that walk and the weather for all of us. Temps around zero and very gloomy here so I would be there in a heartbeat

Add it to your list Boštjan @KinkyOne you would love it!

 

[timr]

Today's walk from Tamel Sao Pedro to Ponte de Lima 25km in strong sun, downhill, through autumnal vineyards, seeing a ewe lambing, rivals any other Camino day I have done anywhere for natural beauty. @NualaOC add it to your list! Again only 3 of us in another very well equipped, historic and very friendly muni albergue.
I'm very conscious that if it were raining heavily it would not be so romantically beautiful. But it is summer in November here. Feeling blessed!

 

[KinkyOne]

Add it to your list Boštjan @KinkyOne you would love it!

It is, Tim, it is

 

[KinkyOne]

Today's walk from Tamel Sao Pedro to Ponte de Lima 25km in strong sun, downhill, through autumnal vineyards, seeing a ewe lambing, rivals any other Camino day I have done anywhere for natural beauty. @NualaOC add it to your list! Again only 3 of us in another very well equipped, historic and very friendly muni albergue.
I'm very conscious that if it were raining heavily it would not be so romantically beautiful. But it is summer in November here. Feeling blessed!

Thought you might enjoy this:

 

[timr]

@KinkyOne Yes we all did! I couldn't stop the sound on my phone this morning at 06:20. But here's the thing. Now 12 people in the room, I'm the last one still in bed at 06:20. It's at least another hour until a glimmer of daylight! I've been starting at 0830 or 0900 past few days. What is all that about? I don't walk in the dark (any more). Partly because albergues close at 9pm each of past three nights and people go to bed early. But still.....now it is 0635 and someone is playing a guitar. But everyone is happy!

 

[NualaOC]

Today's walk from Tamel Sao Pedro to Ponte de Lima 25km in strong sun, downhill, through autumnal vineyards, seeing a ewe lambing, rivals any other Camino day I have done anywhere for natural beauty. @NualaOC add it to your list! Again only 3 of us in another very well equipped, historic and very friendly muni albergue.
I'm very conscious that if it were raining heavily it would not be so romantically beautiful. But it is summer in November here. Feeling blessed!

That sounds amazing Tim, and enough to make me rethink my lack of interest in this Camino.

I was in North Wicklow on Tuesday - it was sunny and bright, but definitely not as warm as Portugal!

 

[timr]

@NualaOC I found some lush slushy mud this morning on first stretch out of Ponte da Lima, but someone had helpfully built a pavement next to it. Er, the Romans! It's an old military road from Braga to Astorga.

 

[timr]

As a venerable professor of Greek in Rome used to tell us "Gentlemen, all cows are black at midnight!" Or as my sister said to me as I tried to persuade her to join me in a mid-life discovery that celery was actually quite nice "well yes, ANY vegetable tastes nice if you add enough parmesan cheese!"
So I'm not sure whether the CP is *perfect* simply because of the truly magnificent November weather. It's rumoured we will find out tomorrow.
But for whatever reason another splendid day.
On the road at 7:15 (as I gave in, as I was last one still in bed at 6:20),
Crisp, chilly but not frosty, bright morning. First 8k through farms on tracks. Lots of small scale vineyards - just private I would imagine. Lovely welcoming bar at Revolta for breakfast.
After that a significant climb through eucalyptus forest, soft underfoot, then stony track through pines, which were being tapped for their resin. This was *very* steep and needed a bit of care to pick your way and keep your footing. It's up the side of the Labruja Valley. But it yields to gentle, careful steps and very quickly, long before I expected, after about 2.5km you are at the top and a very gentle descent then for 4 or 5 brings you into Rubiaes. The short sharp ascent no worse than odd bits elsewhere on other Caminos. And for me much easier than say the long slog up to O Cebreiro or Lugo for example. And the really steep bit is very short. I wouldn't want to put anyone off!

The muni albergue is the first thing you come to, apart from a couple of B&Bs. Like all the munis I've seen so far (this is no 4) it is spotlessly clean and well equipped. Great wifi always. Mixture of purpose-built and great conversions. For €5 you could not be disappointed. Interestingly they have all been classed as donativo, but three have asked for a (receipted) €5 which seems very sensible to me. Pilgrim menus around 6.5 or 7.0€ so generally cheaper than Spain in my experience.
I will be sad to leave Portugal so I'll probably stay in Valenca tomorrow rather than cross the river into Tui (losing an hour).

 

[mspath]

timr,
Tomorrow walking north to Tui on the camino from Valenca do Minho which was the old frontier you pass through a spendid a 17thc fortress designed by Vauban and then cross the river Minho on the 19th c International bridge designed by Eiffel. The view towards Tui as the lights come on at dusk is splendid! Within the fortress the camino passes through the garden of the pousada/hotel Sao Teotonio. Stop at their bar to sip a coffee or more, relax, and admire that panoramic view.

Bom caminho and Buen caminho!

 

[timr]

timr,
Tomorrow walking north to Tui on the camino from Valenca do Minho which was the old frontier you pass through a spendid a 17thc fortress designed by Vauban and then cross the river Minho on the 19th c International bridge designed by Eiffel. The view towards Tui as the lights come on at dusk is splendid! Within the fortress the camino passes through the garden of the pousada/hotel Sao Teotonio. Stop at their bar to sip a coffee or more, relax, and admire that panoramic view.

Bom caminho and Buen caminho!

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[timr]

Short answer to my own question yesterday. Even on a cool misty day, still a very beautiful Camino! A gentle walk into Tui. Rain during the night so wet underfoot, but no mud! Lovely low clouds in the valleys. Valenca is impressive as @mspath says. Fascinating walk through the castle/fort there. Portugal ends very quickly then, 'not with a bang but a whimper.'
Tui a very sleepy city. Fine cathedral and lovely views. The muni albergue well situated. Not as warm, in several senses as Portuguese munis. Very clean but very basic. Missing Portugal.....
Still only 9 in aalbergue and three of those are going 'backwards.' I met a girl from Japan yesterday who wasn't allowed to stay in Tui muni because she was coming *from* SdC. They say they give preference to those coming from Portugal on foot. Fair enough. But it seems curmudgeonly to deny a bed at this time of year.

 

[timr]

Very nice place for breakfast (and lunch or a snack) in Tui. About 100m from cathedral on Camino. 'Ideas Peregrinas' very chic and stylish conversion in an old building. Opened April 2016. Business belongs to two sisters. Bar/cafe and pilgrim shop with clothes and shoes and guidebooks. Open 0700-2200. Very interesting food. Eco, vegetarian, vegan (and normal ) Very comfy seating. Nice soundtrack. Treat yourself. ideas-peregrinas.com
Artepizza in the main street was very nice too. No shortage of restaurants in town but not much doing before 9pm (although it is out of season now).

 

[NualaOC]

Great posts Tim, keep them coming!

 

[timr]

Very nice place for breakfast (and lunch or a snack) in Tui. About 100m from cathedral on Camino. 'Ideas Peregrinas' very chic and stylish conversion in an old building. Opened April 2016. Business belongs to two sisters. Bar/cafe and pilgrim shop with clothes and shoes and guidebooks. Open 0700-2200. Very interesting food. Eco, vegetarian, vegan (and normal ) Very comfy seating. Nice soundtrack. Treat yourself. ideas-peregrinas.com
Artepizza in the main street was very nice too. No shortage of restaurants in town but not much doing before 9pm (although it is out of season now).

Oh and as I was leaving after breakfast today the girl at the bar told me they will open an albergue upstairs very shortly, ie before next season. I'm certain it will be lovely.

 

[AcrossTheWater3008]

Hey @timr thanks for your brilliant updates! I follow in your footsteps on 23/11....... looks like you are having great fun!

Bom caminho

Ginette

I have jz returned from an indulgent wonderful trip to China, so am looking forward to an "energetic brisk" walk from Porto.

 

[timr]

Hey @timr thanks for your brilliant updates! I follow in your footsteps on 23/11....... looks like you are having great fun!

Bom caminho

Ginette

I have jz returned from an indulgent wonderful trip to China, so am looking forward to an "energetic brisk" walk from Porto.

Fantástico!
I hope you will be lucky here with the weather as I have been. It is a really lovely walk from Porto. I'm on the alternative way into Porriño now. I'll post details later. It's misty and autumnal today. Not really cold.

 

[La Rubia]

Tim, thanks for these most excellent updates. I'm planning to do the Portuguese in 2018 or 2019, so I'm bookmarking your notes!

 

[timr]

So I'm going to slow down as I don't want to get to SdC before Thursday. At one point in my planning I thought I'd walk to Finisterre this time but I have to go home Saturday. Er, as I'm going to Brazil on Tuesday.
17km today from Tui to Porriño. Fantastic breakfast, see above. Then fine walk through heavy mist if not quite fog. Passed Poor Clares on way out of Tui. Sad to see just 2 sisters in choir for matins. And just a single loaf of bread delivered, hanging on the convent door.
Road is quiet lanes and some roads until Orbenille. Then the fun begins. The tourist office in Tui gives a helpful photocopied sheet (of which no sign whatever in frugal, austere, and rather soulless muni albergue). Johnnie Walker's CSJ guide and John Brierley both clear on the routes too. At Orbenille there is option of VERY well waymarked (by Galician Amigos) woodland walk, apparently 1.8km longer than walk through industrial area. You are about 9k from Porriño when this begins. The signs for the turn left to enter the track have been obliterated time and again with black paint presumably by those with a business interest along the other way. With whom I have about of sympathy but the squabble is a bit unedifying and I feel each peregrino should make their own choice. The handout had helpful photo of this 'crux'. A large sign 'in seven languages' indicating the route had been removed. You can't really miss the turn because of literally dozens of paint marks on the tarmac. My advice - turn left. The way is very easy after you turn and on lovely tracks with helpful sign boards about flora and fauna along the way. You will eventually pass under major road, about 3 km from your destination to find another plethora of competing signs. Turn left immediately and walk along river. Tranquil. The alternative is to go a little further and turn left along a main road.

I faltered a bit after this and crossed the river too soon. There is still much mischievous blocking out of arrows. But if you do this you need to keep going in same direction, past a pork 'factory' and you'll come to level crossing just before railway station. Then left for 2 albergues in 300m (over the tracks). If you stay on the river you'll eventually come to the same road passing right next to muni. The town centre is off to the right of the tracks. You can't really get lost at this point. The centre of the town is not in the middle! It's at the top end, where you now are!

 

[timr]

The poem beginning "One day I wrote her name upon the strand" [strand being a beach at the sea] always sounds rather modern like Love Story from the 1970s. But in fact is quite old and so seems timeless. It's by the Elizabethan, Edmund Spenser 1552-1599. (You can Google it faster than I can give you a link on my phone.) After that first line the language gets a bit archaic. It is very romantic.

At the point mentioned above, where you need to turn left for the woodland walk, I was surprised to find my name written in the sand (no litter @SYates ) and an arrow pointing me in the right direction. Left by Philip and Adrian from Germany who I've met each evening up to now, though they are ahead of me tonight. I was very touched. A little Camino moment! I'll try and attach photo but not confident of achieving this on my phone.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi Tim, I just posted this and realised that you might be in Santiago on those dates: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/carlos-núñez-in-santiago-cathedral.44380/

I'm sure I'm not the only one to be a little jealous of your three Caminos in one year .......... but if you manage to see Carlos Nunez in the cathedral, I'll be seriously green with envy

 

[timr]

T

Hi Tim, I just posted this and realised that you might be in Santiago on those dates: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/carlos-núñez-in-santiago-cathedral.44380/

I'm sure I'm not the only one to be a little jealous of your three Caminos in one year .......... but if you manage to see Carlos Nunez in the cathedral, I'll be seriously green with envy

Thanks so much Nuala. I'll be there I hope I can get in. I replied on other thread asking for help with the meaning of the Spanish re 'invitations'.

 

[timr]

Porriño (Saturday) not the most picturesque of towns but very well blessed with eateries. I had zorza. Nice Parish church and big turn out for Saturday vigil Mass - Solemnity of Christ the King. Bar next to church gives very generous empanada with any drink, so very cheap supper! Every bar full of people watching football.

Let me precede the following comment by saying that I am fundamentally grateful to all hospitaleros in every albergue I have stayed in. I wouldn't be able to do Camino without them. And to all xuntas and individuals who provide the facilities.
Having said that, there are some albergues I would never go back to (no names) and some I didn't want to leave (En El Camino in Boadilla, and many others).
The muni in Tui was not the warmest in any sense of the word. I decided on Saturday in Porriño for the first time this trip to go to private albergue instead of xunta. It had a number on the door which I rang and was guided in with a key code and told where to find bed. It's well appointed with lots of beds in a dark room. A bit spooky as each individual bunk curtained off. It reminded me of a mortuary (of which I have been in many, though not to sleep.) Each bunk did have socket and light.
The only problem was, in this off season, the kitchen and laundry and I guess sitting room upstairs had been rented out privately and so were inaccessible. So a bit frugal. No washing or drying facilities (except hairdryer which a couple used to dry their washing!) An electric kettle but no cups! I felt €10 could have been reduced in the circumstances. But no matter.
Woken twice during night, despite effective earplugs, by noise of torrential rain!

 

[AcrossTheWater3008]

Thanks @timr great updates..! Jz arrived in Porto.... beautiful sunny 10C!!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Treat yourself. ideas-peregrinas.com
Artepizza in the main street was very nice too. No shortage of restaurants in town but not much doing before 9pm (although it is out of season now).[/QUOTE

Tuy y yo, excellent restaurant, with outgoing and generous chef. It's on the way out of town, 100 meters from the Villa San clemente albergue, the one with the huge backyard with statues, on rua Antero Rubin. He even baked us fresh croissants while we had donner to take back with us cor breakfast in the morning.

 

[KinkyOne]

... It reminded me of a mortuary (of which I have been in many, though not to sleep.) ...

Had to laugh at this one

 

[timr]

Had to laugh at this one

Or it was also rather like one of those stack-em-high cemeteries you see in Spain and Italy!

 

[timr]

Sunday shortish day from Porriño to Redondela. Lovely little panaderia on the right a few hundred metres as you head back into town. Big bakery at back. I asked for a big coffee and she produced half pint mug. And croissant hot from the oven.
That was the good bit. The rain was unmerciful. And for some reason my right foot became very wet inside though shoe still seems waterproof. I think it was wicking down the sock. Reaching Mos after about 10km a bit bedraggled at 1020. But bells ringing and Mass about to begin. I went in and took off everything wet and arranged them at the back. Nearly 90 at Mass, young and old and children very much involved with reading and singing. I clearly sat in the place where one old man normally puts his hat and next to the place an expansive beldam had sat for 80 years but we got through those complications.
Quite warm and dry by the end of mass! Lovely bar opposite and after more coffee and cake felt ready to brave the rain - which had meanwhile cleared! There's a quite steep part after Mos, up and down, but nothing to cause alarm.
Thereafter a pleasant walk, into Redondela. You get a view of the Atlantic inlet in the distance as you crest a hill.
The muni albergue bang on the centre of town next to 0km mark. Lovely old stone building. Also functions as a kind of library. Warm warm warm. Plenty of heating. Something I've never seen before - washer and dryer for men and washer and dryer for women!
Nice restaurant immediately behind. And plenty more around town. Inevitably, church of Santiago (wrongly called cathedral on Google maps) was closed.
Worth checking you road out in the morning before you go to bed as it is not abundantly marked especially not if you plan to leave early. If it is cloudy, its not really light till nearly 0830.

 

[timr]

Monday 21/11/2016
Redondela to Portela (30.8)
Well this was meant to be a slow-ish, gentle Camino without over long etapas. But now a change of plan. @NualaOC informed me kindly that Carlos Nuñez, the great exponent of the gaita, the Galician bagpipes, was performing a concert in Cathedral at SdC on Wednesday night. My plan had been to arrive Thursday. Although concert completely sold out there was some possibility of second half of concert - which would feature a total of 75 traditional musicians - being open to the public. [I'll tell you what happened later.] So I decided to squeeze (slightly) four days walking into three. This I did by adding 10km to Monday and Tuesday.
So Monday woken in warm albergue by again torrential rain and thunder. Which abated just around 0800 so first part of walk was fine.
My original plan for the day included a lunch of 'sardines on the beach' in Arcade, where Brierley recommends a swim. It was not that sort of a day when I passed through at 10am.
Just before you cross the River Ulla on the old Roman bridge you can divert to a boardwalk giving great view of the bridge and bringing you back to it. Helpful signs giving history and explanation of importance of site in Peninsular Wars. Marshal Ney defeated here. Quite steep down into Arcade and up again after crossing the river. Raining a lot by now. So quite wet arriving Pontevedra. Visited Santuario da Peregrina with statue of Madonna and child in pilgrim dress(!). Two other churches attempted - both closed. (No surprises!) The rain a little dispiriting. Plenty of places to eat, the best choices *past* the Santuario, on into the old town.
Another 11km most on woodland track parallel to railway brings you to San Amaro, with bars. Continuing on waymarked path there is shortly a sign for diversion right for an albergue at San Mamede de Portela. One of the best diversions I have ever taken. The albergue is the old school building. 16 beds and male and female showers and toilets. A very homely feel. Heaters in dormitory. A great wood burning stove in kitchen! Magical. There's no shop or bar. You could cook. There were just 4 of us and Jorge the very hospitable hospitalero brought in soup at 7pm and was willing to get whatever we wanted from supermarket. In fact we were all happy with soup and the wonderful fresh bread he brought, for the night and the morning, and fresh fruit. Beer, wine, cold drinks, tea, coffee all available donativo. 7 euros for the night. I would happily have paid double for the experience. Sitting around fire talking. Sign on the wall: This is a place of peace - talk gently. (Not the same as talk 'quietly' I think.).
It felt a bit like going into Hansel and Gretl's cottage at first, a bit remote. It turned into one of my most memorable evenings on this or any Camino. Highly recommended.

 

[ouroboros]

Wonderful! I gather you made it to Santiago to hear the concert. I was sad that your blog ended here, but am grateful for your tips!

 

[timr]

Thanks @ouroboros ! I sort of ran out of steam for writing.
Stayed in Padrón the next night and reached Santiago the following day. Uneventful.
Never got ticket for the concert - they were like gold dust. BUT, here's the thing: I met up with a German guy in Portela and a Filipino guy in Padrón, and we walked more or less together for the last two days. We just had one night together (staying in S Martin Pinario in SdC) in Santiago and went out for a celebratory meal. We all dispersed next morning. If someone had come to me during the meal with a ticket.............I would have said "thanks but no thanks!!"
It was a Camino I enjoyed enormously, helped by the weather. I would do it again without hesitation. I might explore more of the coast, and the Variant Espiritual.